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SkaAndScreenplays posted:Is there any benefit to riding boots over the doc martins I currently roll around in? Probably the difference between a dislocation and a compound fracture in my case.
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Jul 25, 2014 18:21
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:Is there any benefit to riding boots over the doc martins I currently roll around in? Even my hightop dianese riding shoes kept my ankle and every bone in my foot from being completely shattered into a million pieces. Trauma docs kept checking the xray in disbelief. The shoe is toast, you can see where it protected me, and I'm still in very high amounts of pain. I loved those shoes, they were comfortable and protective. If it's any hint, I'm looking for a full fuckoff armored boot for my next pair.
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Jul 25, 2014 21:13
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Here's a dumbass question. The battery leads are supposed to directly screw to the battery terminal correct? No nut or anything on the other side? I bought an 04 R6 a few months ago and I just went to start it up and the dash would come on intermittently and when it did the engine wouldn't turn over. I open the seat and find that the leads are pretty much just laying on the battery terminals being wedged in place by the screws. Is this just a case of the screws being too small or did the terminals on the battery just get stripped over time?
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Jul 26, 2014 00:39
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There's supposed to be a rectangle nut underneath. Just get some zip ties and it'll be fine.
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Jul 26, 2014 00:43
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On all the batteries I've seen, there's a little square nut for the screw to thread through, inside the terminal post. It moves around when it's not on the screw, and can fall out easily. You're probably missing that.
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Jul 26, 2014 00:43
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Ah I see now looks like there's a little bracket it's supposed to be resting on thanks
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Jul 26, 2014 00:51
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M42 posted:On all the batteries I've seen, there's a little square nut for the screw to thread through, inside the terminal post. It moves around when it's not on the screw, and can fall out easily. You're probably missing that. Which, by the way, is the dumbest loving design decision possible. What justification can there possibly be for not either just threading the terminal itself or - if you absolutely must have a separate nut - making it fit much more snugly in the terminal so it doesn't take twenty minutes of swearing and cross-threading to get the fucker to fit?
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Jul 26, 2014 01:32
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Which, by the way, is the dumbest loving design decision possible. What justification can there possibly be for not either just threading the terminal itself or - if you absolutely must have a separate nut - making it fit much more snugly in the terminal so it doesn't take twenty minutes of swearing and cross-threading to get the fucker to fit? Have you ever tried to thread lead? I'll fill you in. Lead is soft. Like you can dent it with your fingernail soft. And it's gummy, so taps don't work well. Basicly it won't take threads. That steel nut, is the only thing that makes that work.
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Jul 26, 2014 01:49
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Coydog posted:Even my hightop dianese riding shoes kept my ankle and every bone in my foot from being completely shattered into a million pieces. Trauma docs kept checking the xray in disbelief. The shoe is toast, you can see where it protected me, and I'm still in very high amounts of pain. are they comfortable enough to wear as regular footwear?
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Jul 26, 2014 02:03
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Which, by the way, is the dumbest loving design decision possible. What justification can there possibly be for not either just threading the terminal itself or - if you absolutely must have a separate nut - making it fit much more snugly in the terminal so it doesn't take twenty minutes of swearing and cross-threading to get the fucker to fit? On most all batteries I've seen, that square nut was snug-fit on the rear of the terminal. Unfortunately, due to the nature of the lead holder and terminal, the first tightening loosens everything up.
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Jul 26, 2014 02:15
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It's still a retarded design, since you know, lead is soft. I damaged a battery clamp on a Porsche because the square steel nut started rotating and just milled throught the lead. Got a regular nut on there and everything worked just fine.
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Jul 26, 2014 02:52
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Nidhg00670000 posted:It's still a retarded design, since you know, lead is soft. I damaged a battery clamp on a Porsche because the square steel nut started rotating and just milled throught the lead. Got a regular nut on there and everything worked just fine. I was curious about this so I bothered to calculate it, and turns out a square nut actually has 20% more clamping surface area than an equivalently-sized hex nut. (I worked it out for a 14mm nut with a 6mm internal hole; square has 168mm^2 and hex has 141mm^2). Of course, you want the most surface area you can get when you're tightening the nut down onto a metal like lead, with the consistency of hard cheese, so that it deforms as little as possible. Considering that there have been, you know, billions of lead-acid batteries manufactured over the last hundred and fifty years and they effectively all use this design, I'd imagine it's the best of several less than ideal solutions.
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Jul 26, 2014 03:44
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Astonishing Wang posted:I topped up the oil and rode the bike home - it did perfectly, no more smoke. I rode it again today and all is well. I'm sure I've taken some life off of the motor, unfortunately If you're thinking of rebuilding a 73 w/ 2k original miles at home, you should sell it and buy one with 50k miles to tinker with instead. Or keep it and buy one for about 800$ that needs work to scratch the itch of learning about the hoary guts of the thing. You'll spend way more on replacement soft parts anyway in a rebuild so might as well not waste a vanishingly rare bike. Does it leak oil in weird ways? Yes. Are your carb diaphragms shot leading to poor performance? Yep. Are you going to encounter corrosion issues in the electrical? 100%. Will you ever get your hands on another 32 year old machine that's basically just broken in? Nope, never ever ever.
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Jul 26, 2014 04:08
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I'll be sure to check the oil way more frequently.
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BlackMK4 posted:Mmmm, perfect. Looks like a route down to me. Definitely taking the coastal highway up for the most part. I can also offer you any assistance you may need in the Portland area, even if it's just an air mattress and a garage to throw your bike in if you need a place to crash for the night.
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Jul 26, 2014 04:28
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Thanks
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Sagebrush posted:I was curious about this so I bothered to calculate it, and turns out a square nut actually has 20% more clamping surface area than an equivalently-sized hex nut. (I worked it out for a 14mm nut with a 6mm internal hole; square has 168mm^2 and hex has 141mm^2). Of course, you want the most surface area you can get when you're tightening the nut down onto a metal like lead, with the consistency of hard cheese, so that it deforms as little as possible. I think I love you. Just FYI.
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Jul 26, 2014 05:01
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Sagebrush posted:I was curious about this so I bothered to calculate it, and turns out a square nut actually has 20% more clamping surface area than an equivalently-sized hex nut. (I worked it out for a 14mm nut with a 6mm internal hole; square has 168mm^2 and hex has 141mm^2). Of course, you want the most surface area you can get when you're tightening the nut down onto a metal like lead, with the consistency of hard cheese, so that it deforms as little as possible. Yeah, the problem here was that the square nut filled out the battery clamp completely, preventing anything but the clamping force of the bolt from keeping it still. Putting a hex nut on it let me put a ring spanner on there.
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Jul 26, 2014 06:26
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So why make the terminals out of lead? Is it just "well we've already got shitloads of the stuff lying around, gently caress it just use that."? I've had batteries with threaded copper connectors and they work absolutely perfectly (in fact in one case it was c-shaped so I could even add a nut under it to hold in another lead without leaving the positive terminal worryingly close to the frame).
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Jul 26, 2014 11:37
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Material to material interfaces are hard. More of them would make the situation less reliable. They have craptons of lead to work with, so they work with lead. If Ihad my way, they'd all be vertical terminals so you could easily reach both sides of the connection. But.. for some reason they go with the horizontal terminals.
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Jul 26, 2014 17:01
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On most motorcycle batteries the two terminals are actually just little flanges cast into the top of the outer cells' plates, and the top plate of the battery has holes that fit around them so they can stick out the top. Super simple and a guaranteed good electrical connection. The reason you don't often see other things used is Nerobro posted:Material to material interfaces are hard. and they're especially hard when it's inside a battery full of acid and flowing tons of current -- remember, a battery literally makes its energy by chewing up the metals at a dissimilar material interface. And even if you could get away from the galvanic corrosion problems, you still have to connect a piece of copper or whatever to the lead plate somehow, so inside there's going to be a crimped, forged or soldered joint (complex and a potential point of failure) or a mechanical bolt of some kind, in which case you might as well just put it on the outside.  batteries
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Jul 26, 2014 18:58
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:are they comfortable enough to wear as regular footwear? Yes. I have gladly spent entire days walking around with them, or hanging out places. In fact, I was up at a farm recently and just ended up keeping them on instead of the boots I brought with me. They don't even look like riding shoes. I can't tell you how many compliments I've gotten on them, by people who were surprised to find out they were purpose specific. Comfortable from 20F to 98F, for some space age material reason. They vent well when your feet are hot, but in the winter I never had issues with cold toes. It felt like my feet were in a pocket of warm air. They saved my foot through two accidents (one far more minor than the other), and I could tell where the armored toe stopped something from crushing my toes. I'd like more protection after the most recent event, but I'm still fine with only lingering pain. They do their job, and you can tell that they took quite a bit of force directly on my ankle. Plus, it's a shoe you will wear, instead of leaving it at home through desire not to be uncomfortable. My only gripe about them is that they are narrow, but all riding shoes are. I have extra wide feet, and just loosened the laces near the bottom to fix this. If you have normal feet you will love them even more.
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Jul 26, 2014 19:16
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Sagebrush posted:On most motorcycle batteries the two terminals are actually just little flanges cast into the top of the outer cells' plates, and the top plate of the battery has holes that fit around them so they can stick out the top. Super simple and a guaranteed good electrical connection. Yeah yeah yeah that's all a lot of good 'facts' and 'information' but it's a still a poo poo design and I'm smarter than the engineer.
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Jul 26, 2014 19:47
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To be fair, you should never trust an engineer.
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Jul 26, 2014 19:50
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Coydog posted:http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Street/Boots/Perforated/brand/DAINESE/Short-Shift-Motorcycle-Shoes/p/40692 +1, I wear Dainese Vera Cruz shoes and I have no problem wearing them all day long, at parties, or while walking around in the city. They're even modest enough to fit in at the office.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:09
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:are they comfortable enough to wear as regular footwear? This week I helped a buddy move out of his 2nd floor apartment to a 2-story house, including a lot of hefty furniture hauling up and down those stairs, while wearing my Astars SMX Pluses. I was worried it'd be rough on my legs but other than some excessive boot hinge squeaking they were unnoticeable. Those are full-on race boots, something more casual / toury is also going to be fine. Don't buy boots intended for off-road / dirt use if you're going to be walking much in them, those tend to allow much less motion. It's pretty obvious which ones those are, as they tend to look less like shoes and more like casts.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:21
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I run a pair of shorty off-road boots and I've lived in them for weeks at a time without discomfort. Pretty much feel like skate shoes. The tall models with shin coverage are probably a lot more restricting though.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:55
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nsaP posted:Yeah yeah yeah that's all a lot of good 'facts' and 'information' but it's a still a poo poo design and I'm smarter than the engineer. Unironically this. Some manufacturers manage it just fine. Even if there was an absolute, written by God in letters of fire a mile high, THOU SHALT USE LEAD FOR THE TERMINALS commandment, the actual design of the terminals on most batteries (particularly Yuasa) is loving terrible because there's no way of ensuring the nut engages with the bolt even in perfect conditions. In the cramped environs of most motorcycle battery installations this turns a 10 second job into half an hour of frustration, rage, and occasional electrocution. Just cut a little notch for the nut to sit in, for fucks sake. gently caress it, even the post and clamp design of car batteries is vastly easier to use. Sagebrush posted:To be fair, you should never trust an engineer. This is truth.
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Jul 27, 2014 10:43
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I have a solution for this. I have an old battery drain hose from the days before I switched to sealed batteries. I cut a small piece of the hose and put it under the nut in the battery connection cube thingy. The plastic hose will hold the nut in place and also ensure that the screw will be able to reach the nut.
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Jul 27, 2014 12:01
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mguirk the jerk posted:+1, I wear Dainese Vera Cruz shoes and I have no problem wearing them all day long, at parties, or while walking around in the city. They're even modest enough to fit in at the office. I've worn my Vera Cruz shoes standing up all day at work a few times and not had any problems. sadly I've spent more time wearing them off my bike than on
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Jul 27, 2014 12:24
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What type of chain should I get for my ZRX1100, I know I need a 530 110-link chain but besides that is there anything else I need to look out for?
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Jul 27, 2014 18:03
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DID is good and cheaper, RK is a bit nicer. I ended up putting an RK on the little Ninja 250 cause it was like 7 dollars more than the DID.
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Jul 27, 2014 18:25
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I've been having good luck with the RK X-Rings on both of my bikes. I've got 25,000 on one and I've only had to make slack adjustments maybe twice or three times plus it's still looking good and has no tight links. I paid maybe $80 or so through a vendor on eBay.
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Jul 27, 2014 19:18
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ElMaligno posted:What type of chain should I get for my ZRX1100, I know I need a 530 110-link chain but besides that is there anything else I need to look out for? What they said. Don't worry about the length; they're usually much, much longer than any bike needs and you just cut them to the right length for your bike. The link sizing and whether it's an o-ring/x-ring are what matters.
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Jul 27, 2014 19:51
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I got a -1 front sprocket, a +2 rear sprocket... and a gold chain for my bike. 
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Jul 27, 2014 19:54
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420 power wheelie erryday.
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Jul 27, 2014 19:59
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What is the preferred method to removing old brittle in some places, glued on like with super glue in other places gaskets? I had a hell of a time this weekend removing the old gasket from the engine left side panel on my transalp. With the motor in place I had to resort to wetting the old gasket with penetrating oil and shaving it off with short 4 cm package knife blade in some really tight spots. It there some kinda wonder product you can apply to old gaskets to make them dissolve or similar?
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Jul 27, 2014 21:23
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Straight-up methylene chloride will dissolve most of the common petroleum compounds, plastics and rubber binders used in those things. You might also give carb cleaner a shot. Soda blasting works phenomenally well and won't touch the metal underneath, but you have to take the part off the bike to do that.
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Jul 27, 2014 21:32
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Anyone have a recommendation for a brake bleeding kit? I need to bleed my front brake again, and the thing I have right now is awful.
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Jul 27, 2014 22:19
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SquadronROE posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a brake bleeding kit? I need to bleed my front brake again, and the thing I have right now is awful. I've honestly had better luck with old school by-hand than with my mi-t-vac.
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Jul 27, 2014 22:29
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SquadronROE posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a brake bleeding kit? I need to bleed my front brake again, and the thing I have right now is awful. I got some cheap one-way valve thing for like 3 quid from a market that works fine. If you've got a relatively good chemist (pharmacist/medical supply store) you might be able to get hold of a big old syringe and some tubing - I've never used that technique myself but some people swear blind by it.
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Jul 27, 2014 22:38
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Seconding mityvac
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Jul 27, 2014 22:48
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