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KARMA! posted:The bike, not so much. The plugged tire will last longer than the bike, this is true.
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Jul 31, 2014 15:06
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Dumb question, but - am I supposed to be able to downshift into neutral? Couple of times this week I got real lazy with the 2 -> 1 shift and got to N. It doesn't pop out of gear into neutral, or stick there, and I have no problem going into 1st if I actually push the shifter down the whole way. I thought you could only do it up from 1st.
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Jul 31, 2014 15:43
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I can do it on the KTM if I limp-shift. A lot harder than doing it coming up though.
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Jul 31, 2014 15:45
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At least on my Ninja 650 I can shift from 2nd to Neutral.. I don't see any reason why you shouldn't?
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Jul 31, 2014 15:47
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It was something that hadn't happened before, and I couldn't remember if it was supposed to or not. 
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Jul 31, 2014 15:52
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I do it intentionally every time I stop.
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Jul 31, 2014 16:18
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I rely far too much on the Positive Neutral Finder and just slam-slam-slam to 1st and click up once I'm stopped. I'm gonna miss that feature when I sell the Ninjette. 
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Jul 31, 2014 16:21
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Fifty Three posted:I rely far too much on the Positive Neutral Finder and just slam-slam-slam to 1st and click up once I'm stopped. I'm gonna miss that feature when I sell the Ninjette. I too am spoiled by the PNF on my Ninja 650. Going to have to rewire my brain whenever I replace it with a non-Kawi.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:32
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M42 posted:Dumb question, but - am I supposed to be able to downshift into neutral? Couple of times this week I got real lazy with the 2 -> 1 shift and got to N. It doesn't pop out of gear into neutral, or stick there, and I have no problem going into 1st if I actually push the shifter down the whole way. I thought you could only do it up from 1st. That's what I thought too. I was going to say no, no you can't shift into N from 2, but I guess I've never tried it while stopped.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:34
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M42 posted:Dumb question, but - am I supposed to be able to downshift into neutral? Couple of times this week I got real lazy with the 2 -> 1 shift and got to N. It doesn't pop out of gear into neutral, or stick there, and I have no problem going into 1st if I actually push the shifter down the whole way. I thought you could only do it up from 1st. I downshift into neutral from 2nd as I come to a stop constantly. Some transmissions have a better feel for where N is than others, I think.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:38
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The bike I used for the BRC, it was actually easier to find Neutral from 2 than from 1.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:38
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Yeah next time you're coming to a stop and going less than 15 or maybe 10mph just kick the lever down with about half the force you usually do and it should drop right into N. I probably do this more than using the clutch. Course you gotta clutch in to pop it to 1st to take off.
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Jul 31, 2014 17:44
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Most transmissions you should be able to go from 2->N as easily as 1->N. The detent on the shift drum or cam just holds it in N, it doesn't care how it gets there. Theoretically you should have better luck going from 2->N because the muscles in your legs are more developed for pushing the toe down.
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Aug 1, 2014 01:22
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Also the fact that you're moving makes it easier to get neutral AFAIK. Never ridden a bike with a neutral finder thingy; had never even heard of such a thing until it was brought up just now. How does it actually work?
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Aug 1, 2014 01:44
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On my Enfield it's a lever next to the shifter lever, and you move it with your hand. Goes from whatever gear you're in into neutral.
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Aug 1, 2014 01:54
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The Neutral Assist thing just makes it easier to get into Neutral I think, don't even have to think about finding Neutral, I just have to tap my shift pedal from 1st and it'll pop into Neutral, doesn't really matter how much effort I put into it.
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Aug 1, 2014 03:08
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Geirskogul posted:On my Enfield it's a lever next to the shifter lever, and you move it with your hand. Goes from whatever gear you're in into neutral. Translation: my Enfield is broken from the factory.
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Aug 1, 2014 03:11
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What do you do with old brake fluid? I've found people online saying everything from "hazardous waste depots only" to "mix it in with your old motor oil when you recycle it" to "dump it down the sink with a lot of water." Also, when it says to only use fluid from a sealed container -- does this mean literally one that has just been opened for the first time? I know that brake fluid absorbs water from the air if you let it sit out, but I don't know if recapping the bottle tightly counts as "sealed" or if you have to throw away the extra. (I got two small bottles instead of the one big one just in case).
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Aug 1, 2014 04:11
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Slavvy posted:Also the fact that you're moving makes it easier to get neutral AFAIK. Never ridden a bike with a neutral finder thingy; had never even heard of such a thing until it was brought up just now. How does it actually work? Wait dumb question... Am I not supposed to be sitting with clutch in in first at lights? Is this bad?
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Aug 1, 2014 04:25
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:Wait dumb question... That's the 'safe' way to do it.
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Aug 1, 2014 04:30
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Safety wise it's a good idea cause you're ready to go at any moment. Realistically, especially in the city, sitting in N is normal for me. It all depends on the situation. If I'm at a light in downtown where I know the timing and I'm in a mess of stopped traffic, I'm not going to stay in 1st and be at the ready. But places where I don't know the light timing or there are cars coming up behind me, I would probably stay in 1st.
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Aug 1, 2014 05:04
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nsaP posted:Safety wise it's a good idea cause you're ready to go at any moment. Realistically, especially in the city, sitting in N is normal for me. It all depends on the situation. If I'm at a light in downtown where I know the timing and I'm in a mess of stopped traffic, I'm not going to stay in 1st and be at the ready. But places where I don't know the light timing or there are cars coming up behind me, I would probably stay in 1st. What he said.
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Aug 1, 2014 05:24
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I've never been totally convinced that you'd be able to notice the car coming up behind you, realize it isn't going to stop in time, pop the clutch, and get out of the way in the maybe 2 seconds you'll have before it hits. It is a theoretical benefit that has no real downside except tiring out your hand a little bit, though, so I do it.
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Aug 1, 2014 06:53
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Sagebrush posted:I've never been totally convinced that you'd be able to notice the car coming up behind you, realize it isn't going to stop in time, pop the clutch, and get out of the way in the maybe 2 seconds you'll have before it hits. ISTR it does increase clutch wear and oil... wear? That doesn't seem the right term for oil. However I can't see it meaning much of anything over any but the longest timescales. I've mentioned it before but sitting in gear at the lights is a test fail in the UK on the somewhat tenuous reasoning that if you get hit from behind or the clutch suddenly fails it'll shoot you into a live junction but that never seemed to make sense to me because either you'll just stall or the impact would be enough to throw you into traffic anyway. Personally I've always considered it bad form just because at lights you should be relaxing but I really don't think it makes a huge amount of difference one way or the other. As an aside if it's your hand instead of your forearm that gets tired from holding the clutch in your technique is probably wrong because you should be using your whole grip (like making a fist) not a precision grip (between thumb and forefinger like a pen) - despite the name, if your clutch pull is more than a couple of grams, a precision grip will be less precise.
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Aug 1, 2014 07:34
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goddamnedtwisto posted:ISTR it does increase clutch wear and oil... wear? That doesn't seem the right term for oil. However I can't see it meaning much of anything over any but the longest timescales. Oil degradation. That is the most backwards reasoning; I'm certain the test was put together by someone who's last bike was a 1966 BSA. That seems to be the case with the NZ test, anyway. RE: clutch pulls, having the right lever distance is absolutely critical. The majority of factory bikes are simply wrong for most people and spending $20 on ebay can make an enormous difference to your riding fatigue.
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Aug 1, 2014 07:44
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I can pretend all day that it's for safety, but I'm just too lazy to throw it in neutral.
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Aug 1, 2014 10:40
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KARMA! posted:I can pretend all day that it's for safety, but I'm just too lazy to throw it in neutral.
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Aug 1, 2014 12:30
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I pretty much religiously stop in first and once I'm satisfied that I have a buffer of several cars behind me to absorb the impact of any wayward trucks or whatever I'll shift to neutral.
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Aug 1, 2014 13:09
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I pretty much religiously stop in first and once I'm satisfied that I have a buffer of several cars behind me to absorb the impact of any wayward trucks or whatever I'll shift to neutral. This is the general safety guideline. Stop in first. Wait with your eyes glued to the mirrors for not one but two cars to stop behind you, and then it's OK to go into neutral. Getting rear ended at intersections is a leading cause of motorcycle accidents. Though with the alternative being running into a busy intersection after you correctly judge you're about to get asspacked and avoid it plenty of people don't bother. Personally I make a point of stopping far left or right where it's likely an inattentive car will end up beside me instead of over me. Entirety possible that would make gently caress all difference though.
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Aug 1, 2014 13:28
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Halo_4am posted:This is the general safety guideline. Stop in first. Wait with your eyes glued to the mirrors for not one but two cars to stop behind you, and then it's OK to go into neutral. Yeah, it's what we were taught in our pre-learners' course. I've always done it (as well as checking my mirrors as soon as I start braking to a stop to check for close followers or people who look like they're not slowing).
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Aug 1, 2014 13:58
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The correct way is to filter to the front and stop in front of the cars already stopped.
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Aug 1, 2014 15:34
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Collateral Damage posted:The correct way is to filter to the front and stop in front of the cars already stopped. Not legal here, and given the prevalence of road rage and guns here I think more likely to get me killed than someone running into the back of me on accident.
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Aug 1, 2014 15:43
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Collateral Damage posted:The correct way is to filter to the front and stop in front of the cars already stopped. The one day I did this was the only time I've had someone hang out of their window screaming at me and try to run me off the road. People take that poo poo seriously here, it's stupid.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:11
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M. Night Skymall posted:Not legal here, and given the prevalence of road rage and guns here I think more likely to get me killed than someone running into the back of me on accident. Let me guess, you live in *insert 49 other states that are worse for motorcycling then California even though we have to deal with LA drivers. That's right, LA drivers will try to kill you for fun but it is worth it to split.*
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Aug 1, 2014 16:35
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Chichevache posted:Let me guess, you live in *insert 49 other states that are worse for motorcycling then California even though we have to deal with LA drivers. That's right, LA drivers will try to kill you for fun but it is worth it to split.* Sure, though I think Texas may be particularly bad for it. Road rage shootings are disturbingly common here, and there was a thing where a lady in an SUV got mad at a bicyclist and just ran him over from behind a little while back. It's possible there're places people don't shoot each other on the interstate every other week.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:40
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Re: first or neutral, I've had a couple of near misses, and the sound of screeching tires was my only warning. One car just about kissed the back fender. If someone's bearing down on your six and hits the bike, I think you get launched either way, the rest is just a physics problem and maybe 12 seconds of footage on the evening news showing cops pointing and pretending there's a mystery to be solved. It is situational as others have mentioned, so being ready to go can be beneficial. Absolutely keep the mirrors in your threat scanning routine, but if you do get a close call, never let them see you flinch, then press on as if you didn't just soil yourself.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:45
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Welcome back Marv.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:48
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When I first started riding, many of the guys I talked to--all Harley types, mind you--said they carried guns on their bikes and I heard a story about a friend of a friend who fired some shots after a truck full of assholes tried to run him off the road just for kicks. Probably apocryphal, but almost certainly used by some to justify the practice. So I guess the answer, as it so often is here, is to pack heat yourself. Maybe I should start practicing at the range with my motorcycle gloves on.
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Aug 1, 2014 16:56
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...in your left hand too, you'd want to have the throttle. The paperwork and money required to get a pistol where I live would be prohibitive, and still not legal to carry on a bike for any other purpose than transporting it to and from the range, nor to store ammo outside of the range safe. This however...  EDIT: with a bit of modification... 
ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Aug 1, 2014 |
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Aug 1, 2014 17:30
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 08:24 |
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Jeez what's the point of having a pistol if you can't bring it to the mall?
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Aug 1, 2014 17:33
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