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I've asked a local business if they do laser cutting on demand, but they need to know what kind of material I want. I want to build 28 mm scale buildings for Infinity and am unsure of what thickness and material I should use. Is there a more descriptive term than "MDF" or whatever its called? E: nvm, its called MDF here as well and 3 mm seems to be a good thickness for the plans I have. Not a viking fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Aug 5, 2014 |
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Aug 5, 2014 22:11
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I finished a building. the walls are from the Warlord Games kit, Ruined Hamlet.   I'll take step by step pictures when I begin working on the next three if anyone is interested, they are already assembled and primed.
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Aug 6, 2014 02:41
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I googled "making scale model concrete" and one of the results that came back was this website here. .... Don't mind me, I am just going to go kill myself now...  Still, some fantastic information there on anyone who *really* wants to make some awesome looking terrain. We've got nothing on scale modellers, folks.
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Aug 6, 2014 15:54
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Haha, yeah, I came across that one in a "concrete" search as well. Freaking insane how awesome some of these guys are. On a related note, on Armorama, Increment did concrete barriers by lining his mold with fine grain sandpaper. Once he popped the barriers out, he had instant texture. I don't know if it applies to anything you were looking for in terms of concrete, but your post reminded me of it.
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Aug 6, 2014 17:13
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Absolutely it helps, thank you! For the silicone molds I have, I was thinking I might put a little light PVA wood glue in there, watered down, and sprinkle in some coarse salt. With any luck once it's fully hardened I can wash away the salt particles under water, leaving the plaster behind. I was also going to experiment with some sand and concrete pre-mix, but at 8 hours setting time and 40 hours till completely hard, it's a bit harsh. I think I might just stick to Hydrostone. I will be buying some oxide pigmentation for it though and giving it a go to see if it can make them greyish enough so I can determine how they've turned out rather than being blinding white all the time.
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Aug 6, 2014 22:39
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Wouldn't the water in both the glue and the plaster (or hydrostone, etc.) just dissolve the salt?
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Aug 7, 2014 14:11
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Quite possibly! I will have to try and find out! I do remember that the PVA by itself was a bit of a hassle with the Hydrostone (I don't think it set properly against it). The only other option is to cast with a gritty medium mixed in, which will ruin the bonding and strength of Hydrostone I'd expect. I will likely pick up another 5kg bucket of the stuff soon, I'll let you know how I go 
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Aug 7, 2014 14:14
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It works! Or at least looks like it does. The molded pieces came out all rough and damaged, which is fantastic. I am just waiting for them to cure a bit more before giving them a wash to remove any excess salt or PVA off of them. I also went to the hardware store and bought some oxide. A small pinch colours the plaster marvelously, and I might pick up some red or brown if I need to make roof tiles or brick and can't be arsed painting them. I am also now going to cast some concrete mortar in one of these molds and see what the result is. I am hoping it retains a fine gritty effect so I can make up masters in concrete to silicone cast off which have a scaled concrete effect. At only $6 for a 10kg bag it's quite economical. My 22.5kg bag of Hydrostone was $50, which is better than buying it in smaller amounts. Overall, it's a success, and I am pretty pleased with the results. The effect is so random and odd that it looks like battle damage. It wasn't easy getting the glue to not run all over the place in the mold, but I got there, and for the effect it's definitely worth it, and cheap.
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Aug 8, 2014 13:08
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I got a bunch of laser cut kits, and this one I'm assembling now has got all this interior detail stuff going on and I'm trying to figure out how best to assemble this kit and I have to ask those who have put this sort of thing together: Paint first, then glue? Because there's no way I'm going to be able to rattlecan/airbrush this thing, let alone brush paint anything in here once it's put together, but I'm worried that the mere act of priming it will render it unglueable. Mollify me, please.
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Aug 9, 2014 08:53
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Fix posted:I'm worried that the mere act of priming it will render it unglueable. Mollify me, please. Nothing is unglueable, if you have the right glue... and there is a glue for everything. If you need to use wood glue or something, you can always take sandpaper to the edges that will be glued before you glue them.
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Aug 9, 2014 09:04
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You know what I mean. I don't want fragile joins. I'm wondering whether it's the sort of thing where people mask before they paint or do like you say and sand or something. Seems that this stuff is cut so precise that sanding is not necessarily the best way to go.
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Aug 9, 2014 09:12
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Provided you use wood glue things should be fine. It'll bond despite whatever paint is there. The only issue I can see is any spare glue seeping through the edges or running down the sides, but so long as you're diligent and wipe up any excess you should be okay.
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Aug 9, 2014 12:49
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Even if you don't wipe the excess, you can slice off the excess glue with a scalpel/razor blade.
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Aug 9, 2014 13:02
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ijyt posted:Even if you don't wipe the excess, you can slice off the excess glue with a scalpel/razor blade. Yeah but if he paints it beforehand, slicing off the excess might ruin the paintjob.
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Aug 9, 2014 13:22
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Here's my simple concrete texture: First coat over black foam core:  Old version painted up, forgetting the seams in the middle for some reason:  It's just a mix of white glue, paint and sand, with enough water to make it usable. Slop it on, let it dry, then paint over it in your base color, then drybrush it all. Don't expect your paintbrushes to last long with this technique though, it's literally painting sandpaper and I've worn down two stiff bristled brushes now, and my dry brush has a definite slant on it now. Also, my new Necromunda table topper. 4x4 MDF/hardboard, lined on the bottom with some 1"x2" boards and a cross of it on the bottom for support. Then, painted the edges yellow, measured out some hazard strips and masked them out before spray painting it all black. Couple coats of gray latex wall paint on the top, and I'm done. 
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Aug 9, 2014 14:19
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Fix posted:I got a bunch of laser cut kits, and this one I'm assembling now has got all this interior detail stuff going on and I'm trying to figure out how best to assemble this kit and I have to ask those who have put this sort of thing together: Paint first, then glue? Because there's no way I'm going to be able to rattlecan/airbrush this thing, let alone brush paint anything in here once it's put together, but I'm worried that the mere act of priming it will render it unglueable. Mollify me, please. Leperflesh posted:Nothing is unglueable, if you have the right glue... and there is a glue for everything. And if you never want it to be unglued and can stand the hassle, in my experience that glue is always epoxy. I doubt sanding down the edges after you've painted them will do much to alter fit unless you go really wild with it. You just need to sand down so you get a bit of roughness and wood showing, not to actually take off any material. You'd probably be fine with a strong glue without sanding them. Acrylic paints are actually pretty good glue themselves, though, at least sufficient to bond two pieces of paper together as well as wood glue, and once it's assembled, very few of the joints aren't going to be supported by several others. I'd give a solid building with decent sized contact surfaces just glued together with acrylic paint pretty good odds of holding together on its own, and one glued with epoxy over the paint is likely to withstand a lot. I'm no expert, but the only bits I'd even think of worrying about would be long levers sticking out with only one glued joint, but even two pieces of wood joined with wood glue can break then. Disclaimer: Not a professional and probably biased against superglue because I was bad at using it.
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Aug 9, 2014 16:51
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Slimnoid posted:Yeah but if he paints it beforehand, slicing off the excess might ruin the paintjob. Doh, misread his intentions.
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Aug 9, 2014 16:57
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Fix posted:I got a bunch of laser cut kits, and this one I'm assembling now has got all this interior detail stuff going on and I'm trying to figure out how best to assemble this kit and I have to ask those who have put this sort of thing together: Paint first, then glue? Because there's no way I'm going to be able to rattlecan/airbrush this thing, let alone brush paint anything in here once it's put together, but I'm worried that the mere act of priming it will render it unglueable. Mollify me, please. That is a REALLY nice kit, please take photos / make a tutorial while painting, id love to see how you do it.
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Aug 10, 2014 19:19
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LumberingTroll posted:That is a REALLY nice kit, please take photos / make a tutorial while painting, id love to see how you do it. I'm just glad they actually posted instructions for this one, since they weren't in the package and their other kits are just big 3d jigsaw puzzles. This one has got all kinds of crazy detail going on.
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Aug 10, 2014 21:19
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Fix posted:I'm just glad they actually posted instructions for this one, since they weren't in the package and their other kits are just big 3d jigsaw puzzles. This one has got all kinds of crazy detail going on. Yeah, after seeing some really neat building designs, I think I am going to give up on my idea of a modular system for my laser cut terrain, and just design some neat buildings instead.
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Aug 10, 2014 22:22
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Getting my shipment of Merlin's Magic today!  And then I have to go on a business trip tomorrow... 
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Aug 11, 2014 19:09
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So I got some molds in and made a few pieces. I've put together a few bases and a Hesco barrier. The big back bases are 55mm wide and have hexagonal plaster pieces stuck on them at slightly different heights. The 40mm are the same, 3 with square pieces attached (2 at weird angles to be askew pavement pieces) and one regular ways, and the other two are hexagonal ones. Same tiles on 25mm ones as well, though they didn't come out as well. And in the center is a hand made Hesco barrier. Made it using wire mesh wound with thin wire to be the coils, medical sticking plaster on the inside with a piece folded around the top edges, with a foam block in the middle to get it to keep it's shape and a little hydrostone so it can have a flat, easily cast top you can put any kind of rubble in you like. I can cast these, and thank god because holy poo poo did it ever take ages to make. I will likely make a second using a different technique to get looking more uniform, as well as make a group of 3 all together so they can be looked as if they are the connected sort. Some of the hex based ones I didn't ensure the 'grouting' plaster I poured over them to smooth out and fill the gaps was sunk slightly between the tiles, so I had to try to scratch them back in. As it's hydrostone, it's hard as hell, so they don't look as good as they could. I won't likely cast those ones up, it was more to just experiment how they all come together. I really like them, but getting the edges smooth is a real pain in the arse some times. Any feedback? The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Aug 16, 2014 |
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Aug 16, 2014 16:35
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The Dark Project posted:Any feedback? That Hesco Barrier is gorgeous and if you ever do get some successful casts off, show us how they come out! A dozen or so of those would make for perfect Infinity scatter terrain.
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Aug 17, 2014 01:07
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I quite like the 55mm hex bases. MAS doesn't sell one for Infinity yet, and yours fits the aesthetic perfectly.
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Aug 17, 2014 18:07
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Anyone have ideas for a 4x4 or 4x6 table that's easy to store?
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Aug 17, 2014 20:51
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A tabletop on sawhorses. Not the most visually appealing, but takes up next to no space against a wall.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:25
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signalnoise posted:Anyone have ideas for a 4x4 or 4x6 table that's easy to store? The easiest storage I can imagine would be to find/cut MDF or similar board into 2'x2' squares. Drill two or more holes in each side, say ½-1 inch deep. Get dowels with the same diameter as the holes and stick them inside, so that the squares are stuck to each other. It won't be the purdiest table in the kingdom but it would take almost no place to store. Second easiest (or even easier, as you'd have to do less work) would be to get one of those rubber mats that you could just roll up, and roll out on a kitchen table or similar. http://www.zuzzy.com/ If you mean the actual table itself, yes, a table counter and some saw horses would do the job.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:32
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Acceptableloss posted:I quite like the 55mm hex bases. MAS doesn't sell one for Infinity yet, and yours fits the aesthetic perfectly. They have just come out with some new ones if you check their Dakkadakka thread. However, their hexes are a lot bigger, mine are small ones around 7mm across. But a lot of people seem interested in these so I have built a third 55mm base which has the hexes at different heights and will be making up some flat ones too. Hoping to get them all done nicely and then mold them up to cast for people soon. I should be able to make them at a pretty reasonable price if anyone is interested. I live in Australia, but they'll be resin so hopefully they won't be so expensive to ship.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:32
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signalnoise posted:Anyone have ideas for a 4x4 or 4x6 table that's easy to store? Secret Weapon Miniatures have their Tablescapes thing, that should be hitting retail soon. Unless you mean a surface large enough to play on.
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Aug 17, 2014 22:11
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ijyt posted:Secret Weapon Miniatures have their Tablescapes thing, that should be hitting retail soon. Unless you mean a surface large enough to play on. I mean the table itself, to lay a mat on. I have a 3x3 coffee table, but as far as a 4x4, no one seems to sell folding tables that are the right size. Might have to do the sawhorse method, or maybe http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3994320 which I saw in this thread I think, but it's only 21 inches tall so we'd need chairs.
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Aug 17, 2014 22:21
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signalnoise posted:I mean the table itself, to lay a mat on. I have a 3x3 coffee table, but as far as a 4x4, no one seems to sell folding tables that are the right size. Might have to do the sawhorse method, or maybe http://www.toysrus.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3994320 which I saw in this thread I think, but it's only 21 inches tall so we'd need chairs. The height is going to be a deal breaker - you'll have to constantly bend over, even if you're sitting, and it's going to kill your back. I don't think 21 inches is even coffee table height. For $90, you're better off getting a table that is more conducive to the height of an adult, rather than a toddler.
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Aug 17, 2014 23:30
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signalnoise posted:Anyone have ideas for a 4x4 or 4x6 table that's easy to store? I've got mine posted up a few posts. A single 4'x4' hardboard with some thin beams to keep it straight. Sits nicely on a card table. Stores on it's edge just fine, though it doesn't shrink down at all of course.
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Aug 18, 2014 00:03
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signalnoise posted:Anyone have ideas for a 4x4 or 4x6 table that's easy to store? I know a few carpenters and had one of them make me a really nice table. It is three 2x4 segments that slot together with pins and then lock with table leaf hardware. The complete 4x6 table top then sits on our normal sized ikea dinner table. The topper is mostly made of layered mdf and is coated with glossy black laminate. He charged me $350 for parts and labor, so it was not cheap, but you could make it yourself for much less if you are handy/have the tools (I am neither.) I live in NYC so it was worth the cost to get something that I could play on and still easily store in the closet.  
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Aug 18, 2014 01:36
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What's the best source for BULK flock, static grass and/or ballast?
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Aug 18, 2014 03:02
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Dr. Clockwork posted:What's the best source for BULK flock, static grass and/or ballast? Scenic Express http://www.scenicexpress.com/
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Aug 18, 2014 04:35
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LumberingTroll posted:Scenic Express Now where can I find some sweet goon-made laser cut terrain?  (It's been awhile, couldn't resist)
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Aug 18, 2014 04:38
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Dr. Clockwork posted:What's the best source for BULK flock, static grass and/or ballast? Flock: sawdust, acrylic paint and a blender. Ballast: dollar store kitty litter.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:51
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Silhouette posted:Flock: sawdust, acrylic paint and a blender. Holy poo poo, you mean I could be selling
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Aug 18, 2014 23:57
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While on this subject, anybody got a source for those birch seed pods that look like little leaves? I can't find anyplace that sells them in large quantities, just the small bags at Secret Weapon.
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Aug 19, 2014 02:56
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Bad Munki posted:Holy poo poo, you mean I could be selling Yup. I've done it once before, and it works pretty well. This is a quick-and-dirty instructional on how to do it. Also consider raiding your cabinets for stuff. Tea leaves and coffee grounds (fresh or used for both) are both plentiful and cheap, and even italian seasoning or oregano can work to get some realistic-looking foliage. Sky's the limit if you're inventive enough. Dr. Clockwork posted:While on this subject, anybody got a source for those birch seed pods that look like little leaves? I can't find anyplace that sells them in large quantities, just the small bags at Secret Weapon. Fall is coming, so if you have a park or woods nearby, go out there when the leaves start changing color. Just find some birch trees and you'll find seed pods hanging around. Just be sure to bring a ziplock bag, that stuff gets everywhere. Edit: also, this. Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 03:02
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