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Very small speed increase is the only difference.
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Aug 18, 2014 14:57
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jre posted:Are there any differences between a June 2013 13" Macbook Air and the current model ? Was looking on the refurb store and was wondering if the price difference was too good to be true ? Not really. The CPU's in the 2014 are going to be a few % faster. However, the deciding factor in performance is going to be which SSD you get.  The 2013's won in this test, because they won the luck of the SSD lottery. If it were a CPU-only test (Photoshop filter for instance) the 2014's would be slightly ahead.
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Aug 18, 2014 15:09
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Bob Morales posted:Not really. Great, not bothered about a few % in cpu performance wanted to check it wasn't pre pci-express ssds or something like that
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Aug 18, 2014 15:14
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So if they used several different units would they get variation from the different SSD models that happen to be included in them?
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Aug 18, 2014 16:33
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xgalaxy posted:So I'm currently using a Mid-2012 13" Air with 256gigs hd. I'm thinking of upgrading to one of the new 2014 MBPr 13" models. I use a MBP 2012 model at work and one thing that frustrates me is how slow and sluggish running a Windows VM feels. Will this be an issue with the new models I'm looking at? I really just need a VM to run Visual Studio and nothing else. The rest of my time will be spent in OSX doing other stuff. More RAM will help a ton here. A better SSD will also help.
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Aug 18, 2014 17:39
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I just got my refurbished Macbook Pro, and as what's been said in this thread before, I honestly can't tell the difference between this and a brand new one. I'm starting to wonder if having the 750m is a little overkill for what I'm going to be doing with it, but still I'm pretty happy with this machine so far.
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Aug 20, 2014 01:47
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Phoenixan posted:I just got my refurbished Macbook Pro, and as what's been said in this thread before, I honestly can't tell the difference between this and a brand new one. I'm starting to wonder if having the 750m is a little overkill for what I'm going to be doing with it, but still I'm pretty happy with this machine so far. You'll appreciate the discrete card when you need it, or when you need to sell the machine. I, and many people, would not buy one without it. But integrated's good enough for desktop compositing and light gaming.
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Aug 20, 2014 01:56
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Pivo posted:You'll appreciate the discrete card when you need it, or when you need to sell the machine. Good enough? I find it better for those tasks. Less heat.
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Aug 20, 2014 02:25
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It's even good enough for games like Diablo 3, which are more CPU heavy than graphics heavy. It looks heavy, but it runs the same on either HD Graphics 4000 or a GTX 670 or R9 270X. That is to say, it will drop to 10fps or worse on some scenes regardless of the GPU.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:33
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Honestly, Iris Pro graphics are fine for most things, including games released 2-3 years ago.
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Aug 20, 2014 04:50
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crazysim posted:Good enough? I find it better for those tasks. Less heat. Sure but I mean you can just force it to use integrated if you want, the discrete card isn't going to be powered in that case.
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Aug 20, 2014 14:25
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Is there an official Apple tool to do that or is it still just the janky app some guy made that works sometimes?
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Aug 20, 2014 14:40
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Mu Zeta posted:Is there an official Apple tool to do that or is it still just the janky app some guy made that works sometimes? Hah, the latter, but it works well enough.
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Aug 20, 2014 15:40
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When I used it probably 3 years ago the discrete card kept coming back on randomly. What sucks is that Apple used to let you turn off the card in the energy savings panel but they removed it.
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Aug 20, 2014 15:46
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Mu Zeta posted:When I used it probably 3 years ago the discrete card kept coming back on randomly. What sucks is that Apple used to let you turn off the card in the energy savings panel but they removed it. It's been working well for me lately. I don't think the setting persists over restarts all the time though, which is a bitch. http://gfx.io/ is the app, if anyone's wondering.
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Aug 20, 2014 16:15
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Mu Zeta posted:When I used it probably 3 years ago the discrete card kept coming back on randomly. What sucks is that Apple used to let you turn off the card in the energy savings panel but they removed it. The option is there for me on my late 2011 MBP running the Yosemite developer preview. EDIT: Nevermind. Its only to turn off the integrated graphics card, not the other way around.
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Aug 20, 2014 16:15
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I wanted to open up the back of my 2014 13" MBA (I spilled a few drops of water near the trackpad and I'm suffering from OCD paranoia even though the computer seems to be working just fine, also just curious) so I ordered the premium 'Made in the USA' P5 screwdriver from ifixit. Thing it, the driver seems to be just a hair too big for the pentalobe screws that hold the back plate. Weird. This is supposed to be the correct size, and is the only class of tool sold on ifixit for this purpose. Could it be that Apple has introduced new, smaller screws on the refreshed MBAs? Or maybe the manufacturing tolerances of the USA screwdrivers are bad and I should try ordering the cheaper Chinese model screwdriver? Has anyone else run into an issue like this?
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Aug 20, 2014 17:25
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I wanted to open up the back of my 2014 13" MBA (I spilled a few drops of water near the trackpad and I'm suffering from OCD paranoia even though the computer seems to be working just fine, also just curious) so I ordered the premium 'Made in the USA' P5 screwdriver from ifixit. Thing it, the driver seems to be just a hair too big for the pentalobe screws that hold the back plate. Weird. This is supposed to be the correct size, and is the only class of tool sold on ifixit for this purpose. Could it be that Apple has introduced new, smaller screws on the refreshed MBAs? Or maybe the manufacturing tolerances of the USA screwdrivers are bad and I should try ordering the cheaper Chinese model screwdriver? Has anyone else run into an issue like this? I've had the same issue with IFixIt pentalobes that my work bought. I don't know what the resolution ended up being, as I just use my own tools.
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Aug 20, 2014 17:33
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I wanted to open up the back of my 2014 13" MBA (I spilled a few drops of water near the trackpad and I'm suffering from OCD paranoia even though the computer seems to be working just fine, also just curious) so I ordered the premium 'Made in the USA' P5 screwdriver from ifixit. Thing it, the driver seems to be just a hair too big for the pentalobe screws that hold the back plate. Weird. This is supposed to be the correct size, and is the only class of tool sold on ifixit for this purpose. Could it be that Apple has introduced new, smaller screws on the refreshed MBAs? Or maybe the manufacturing tolerances of the USA screwdrivers are bad and I should try ordering the cheaper Chinese model screwdriver? Has anyone else run into an issue like this? They use a proprietary driver specifically because you shouldn't be opening it if you're not qualified to do so. To view the trackpad you have to take out the battery, which is a soft cell battery that's super easy to damage/puncture. If you really want it checked, take it to an authorized service provider or an apple store. If the trackpad is working fine now, it might still be ok and isn't worth you risking messing up the battery.
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Aug 20, 2014 19:37
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iFixit sources pretty bad toolsets, IMHO. I had their 54-in-1 toolkit (the cheaper one) and pretty much stopped using it after about 8 months as all the bits somehow became worn and even the case hinges broke, making it useless as a portable kit. We've never had any issues from the laughably expensive but reliable tools direct from Apple.
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Aug 20, 2014 21:39
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oh god this was not the right thread at all please ignore
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Aug 21, 2014 01:06
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Binary Badger posted:iFixit sources pretty bad toolsets, IMHO. I had their 54-in-1 toolkit (the cheaper one) and pretty much stopped using it after about 8 months as all the bits somehow became worn and even the case hinges broke, making it useless as a portable kit. My deluxe set from ifixit (that includes the 54 piece set) that I bought several years ago is still going strong (except the latch on the plastic case broke, but I keep it in the wrap so it stays together). I was gifted the 54 piece set that comes the nice wooden box this past Christmas, and several of the bits wore out after only a few months. It seems their quality has gone down over the years (the wooden case is still pretty nice, though not very practical for carrying around in my bag every day). E: The tools my company provided for the shop are top notch, but of course I forgot the brand now that I'm trying to think of the name EDIT: Wiha is the brand)). I looked them up a while back and they were pretty expensive from what I remember, but they've held up to tons of abuse with basically no wear over the past 2+ years. My main set has one handle with a bunch of interchangeable "blades". They're awesome and I want to get my own personal set. Edit: http://www.wihatools.com/pro_system6.htm empty baggie fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 21, 2014 02:02
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So, I'm playing with the idea of buying the new MBPR 15' with 2.5ghZ I7, NVIDIA 750m + Iris pro graphics. I'm buying mainly for Logic x, and eventually final cut and basic college stuff (writing term papers and such). I'd also like to do a fair amount of gaming (a desktop isn't really an option at this point). Mostly older stuff, borderlands 1&2, orange box, maybe some cod/battlefield, tomb raider, stuff like that with high ish settings. Will this $2500+ laptop do that, or would I be better off with something from a, different company or cheaper? I really like the entire package though, great screen and battery life, lightweight compared to "gaming" laptops, durable and sleek design, resale value etc. and think it would be a worthwhile investment. I know macs get a lot of hate, and so do gaming laptops. I'm not planning on running windows if I can avoid it. I'm looking for the best value for my money without breaking 3k, but I want something that will last and hold it's value so I can get a new one in a few years. I'm looking at msi and sager on XoticPC, but most of those options are dedicated gaming systems weighing 8+lbs and have like 2 hour battery life, and I've heard they have cooling issues and less than desirable screens, keyboards, trackpads etc. :/ Staying under 2k would be ideal. Karmakazi fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 21, 2014 02:18
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I bought some stuff from iFixIt and I like it quite a bit :/ The spudgers are soft and develop deformities with use, but the screwdrivers and such have all been pretty reliable for me... But I use them maybe 2-3 times per year, not trying to run a repair shop with them.
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Aug 21, 2014 02:28
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empty baggie posted:E: The tools my company provided for the shop are top notch, but of course I forgot the brand now that I'm trying to think of the name EDIT: Wiha is the brand)). I looked them up a while back and they were pretty expensive from what I remember, but they've held up to tons of abuse with basically no wear over the past 2+ years. My main set has one handle with a bunch of interchangeable "blades". They're awesome and I want to get my own personal set. Edit: http://www.wihatools.com/pro_system6.htm I've tried tons of tools and kits in my time, but Wiha is definitely one of the top two for drivers. I like Felo drivers more than any other tools I've used. I've had the same #0 and #1 for 5 years and they see heavy use - still in great shape. Only bad thing is that they don't make pentalobe drivers. http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26764-Precision-Pentalobe-Screwdriver/dp/B00GY8FEOE/ should be what is needed for Airs and Retinas. I believe that is the size I have and I've taken them apart before. Reviews seem to line up.
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Aug 21, 2014 04:47
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iFixIt charges enough that they should be supplying decent tools in cases that don't fall apart. They're tools for god's sake. They should be able to take a few bumps. Spudgers being soft is okay to some degree because it's better to have the spudger deform than your device.
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Aug 21, 2014 05:31
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fleshweasel posted:Spudgers being soft is okay to some degree because it's better to have the spudger deform than your device. Right, they're supposed to do that. I'm also pretty sure that the spudger/black stick tool that ifixit sells are the same ones that Apple uses.
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Aug 21, 2014 05:37
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Can anyone comment on whether the plastic sheet covering the 2011 Mac Mini's hard drive is actually necessary?
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Aug 21, 2014 06:22
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Karmakazi posted:So, I'm playing with the idea of buying the new MBPR 15' with 2.5ghZ I7, NVIDIA 750m + Iris pro graphics. I'm buying mainly for Logic x, and eventually final cut and basic college stuff (writing term papers and such). I'd also like to do a fair amount of gaming (a desktop isn't really an option at this point). Mostly older stuff, borderlands 1&2, orange box, maybe some cod/battlefield, tomb raider, stuff like that with high ish settings. Will this $2500+ laptop do that, or would I be better off with something from a, different company or cheaper? OSX's been working out pretty well for me so far as actually getting work done goes.
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Aug 21, 2014 06:50
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Honestly I don't know if the Mac will ever really be great for "serious" gaming. It definitely has more latency than Windows and it's more of a hassle to fix the mouse acceleration curve. Windows is getting really hosed up, system requirements are leveling off, and recent OS X versions have improved performance, so who knows. Gabe Newell seems to want Linux to be the future of PC gaming.
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Aug 21, 2014 07:18
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Thanks for the replies and links to better tool suppliers. Looks like I won't have to roll the dice again with ifixit. And yeah, I'm not going to remove the battery or disassemble anything. Like I said, the trackpad works fine. Really, I just want to check and see if any of the visible water damage indicator pads have been set off. 95% chance they're fine, but I want to know. I want the piece of mind, to know I've still got warranty coverage on the machine. Because just like specialty tools, computers can have defects that don't become apparent right away. That said, I certainly wouldn't want to erode my warranty by opening the thing up. I guess they use locktite on the screws, so I'm breaking a seal by removing them, but everything I've read so far seems to indicate that doesn't affect my coverage.
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Aug 21, 2014 07:45
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Hey, I have to get a new machine to work on and could use some advice - I work as a video editor and vfx animator and do a lot of 3D and after effects work. For the last month or so an employer has lent me a 2009 tower, 6 core 3.46 ghz, 32 gb memory, nvidea GeForce GTX 570 2560 MB graphics, but he needs it back now and I need to get something of my own. That machine worked well for me and something similar is affordable from a refurb (about £1775), but I feel like it might be worth spending a little more so I get more use out of it in the long run - is it worth trying to get a 12-core older tower, or would it be better at this point to get one of the new dustbin mac pros? I could probably stretch to spending just over £3.5k. I'm not very good at keeping up with mac news etc, so apologies, but any advice would be great.
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Aug 21, 2014 10:35
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SMERSH Mouth posted:And yeah, I'm not going to remove the battery or disassemble anything. Like I said, the trackpad works fine. Really, I just want to check and see if any of the visible water damage indicator pads have been set off. I think it's already been said, but you won't learn what you want to learn if you're not going to remove the battery, since it covers the entire trackpad. Easiest way to see why is to go look at the ifixit guide for trackpad replacement on the 13" Air. quote:95% chance they're fine, but I want to know. I want the piece of mind, to know I've still got warranty coverage on the machine. Because just like specialty tools, computers can have defects that don't become apparent right away. What will you actually gain, though? As in, what happens if you open it and you find little or no moisture and a tripped indicator? You let out a goony "Welp", close it up, and move on with life, right? All you can do, since it's working. Same applies if you open it up and find no indicators tripped, except you're going "welp" for wasting time and money just to prove you still have a warranty which you don't know whether you'll ever need. There's also the (probably low) risk of killing the machine while just checking it out, or stripping a screw. I'd just cut to the "welp" part and skip the other steps. If it develops a problem that needs repairing, that's the right time to start cracking it open (or having somebody else do it for you). (My advice would be different if you had a good reason to suspect water actually got inside, but it sounds like you don't)
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Aug 21, 2014 12:13
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sweet to chat posted:Hey, I have to get a new machine to work on and could use some advice - I work as a video editor and vfx animator and do a lot of 3D and after effects work. For the last month or so an employer has lent me a 2009 tower, 6 core 3.46 ghz, 32 gb memory, nvidea GeForce GTX 570 2560 MB graphics, but he needs it back now and I need to get something of my own. That machine worked well for me and something similar is affordable from a refurb (about £1775), but I feel like it might be worth spending a little more so I get more use out of it in the long run - is it worth trying to get a 12-core older tower, or would it be better at this point to get one of the new dustbin mac pros? I could probably stretch to spending just over £3.5k. I'm not very good at keeping up with mac news etc, so apologies, but any advice would be great. Semi-related to this: (Sorry to piggyback your question) I posted about a page or two ago (and in the Laptop Megathread before that) asking about specs for a less demanding system than this, but I'm reconsidering my plan to get a Macbook for programming + desktop for video/vfx work, and wondering whether it'd be feasible to just scrap that idea and just invest in a powerful 15" Macbook as a desktop-replacement workstation that can do both? Obviously it'd never have the grunt of a Mac Pro, but as long as I can edit 1080p relatively smoothly in Premiere/After Effects, I'd be happy. (Does Adobe use the GPU for stuff like this? I know FCP does, these days). Am I being dumb? Should I just go with my original plan to get a cheaper 13" MBP for programming stuff and a separate PC desktop/iMac as my workstation? EDIT: It's really hard to get unbiased advice on Macs, it seems like it's very "BEST MACHINES EVER YOU'LL NEVER GO BACK" or "NOT USER MAINTAINABLE! PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE!" with very little middle ground. Surprise T Rex fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 21, 2014 13:46
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I got a new job, I travel a lot, and all the computers we use at work are Macs, usually with Windows installed via various methods in case we need it. I've been thinking about saving up and getting my own mac, since most of the laptops are passed around a lot and don't belong to any one person, so unless I'm working from the cloud, I don't have my own desktop or software. I've been thinking about replacing my whole desktop with a Macbook Pro and using a docking station to optimize my workspace (Dual monitors, ect). My biggest concern is how will this affect light gaming I do (Mostly, League of Legends, which has a Mac client), as the specs are much lower than my normal PC that doesn't even run League of Legends that spectacularly. If anyone plays League on a Mac I need to know what I should look into getting and what needs to be upgraded. League is really the only game I play so that's all I stand to lose on a Macbook.
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Aug 21, 2014 14:51
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I just bought a new 13" Retina Macbook pro from MicroCenter in Dallas. Should I get the 'MicroCenter' version of 'AppleCare', or the regular AppleCare?
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Aug 21, 2014 16:09
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Flameingblack posted:I got a new job, I travel a lot, and all the computers we use at work are Macs, usually with Windows installed via various methods in case we need it. I've been thinking about saving up and getting my own mac, since most of the laptops are passed around a lot and don't belong to any one person, so unless I'm working from the cloud, I don't have my own desktop or software. rMBPs will crush it MBA would probably be fine too. Go look up on Youtube exactly what model you want and I'm sure someone has already done a youtube review of that model + league as it's so popular.
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Aug 21, 2014 16:13
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Surprise T Rex posted:Am I being dumb? Should I just go with my original plan to get a cheaper 13" MBP for programming stuff and a separate PC desktop/iMac as my workstation? As with the other user I'd suggest getting a youtube review (with details) reviewing your exact work load. I use a rMBP 2012 15' for web development + Unreal Engine 4/Unity/Gaming and it does pretty well. I wish I had a better gpu/more memory as my build times (for Unreal Engine 4) can take a long time but it's still tolerable. Everything pretty much flies. You might find the gpu lacking (but only you can answer that by reviewing your workload) but having one machine do both can be very nice.
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Aug 21, 2014 16:17
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Captain Pike posted:I just bought a new 13" Retina Macbook pro from MicroCenter in Dallas. Should I get the 'MicroCenter' version of 'AppleCare', or the regular AppleCare? Depends on what the store version covers and how much you trust them to deliver, but applecare proper gives you an actual warranty from Apple, including any retail store or phone support.
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Aug 21, 2014 20:39
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Exactly. It all depends on what their warranty offers, the cost, if you're planning on staying in the area around that particular store, etc. The warranty my company offers exceeds Apple's in a few ways (accidental damage coverage and price point being the main two) but you have to take your device to one of our 6 stores if you ever need service, whereas Apple has worldwide coverage, hundreds of locations, mail-in options, phone support, coverage on accessories, etc.
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Aug 21, 2014 21:39
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