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berzerkmonkey posted:I was staring at the picture trying to wrap my brain around how a drawing from a book published in 1987 could possibly have used the word "LOL." Have you seen the size of that guys though? Hes as tall as a Space Marine!
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Aug 24, 2014 18:14
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lilljonas posted:"marines LOL" is much more fun and now I want to see that ob some terrain piece. I think you mean MARINES LO [bloodstain]
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Aug 24, 2014 18:26
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Grey Hunter posted:Have you seen the size of that guys though? Hes as tall as a Space Marine! Everybody is as tall as a space marine. Seriously, look at the figures!
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Aug 24, 2014 19:23
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Grey Hunter posted:Have you seen the size of that guys though? Hes as tall as a Space Marine! He is actually a bit taller, his legs are spread pretty far. That second marine is about a head shorter than the first one too... dwarf marines.. oh I got it, these are stunties, not marines.. makes sense now.
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Aug 24, 2014 19:28
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The Dark Project posted:Everybody is as tall as a space marine. Seriously, look at the figures! My favorite thing is when people make fun of marine by sketching what they would look like in real life over the armor. It's like, yeah, they do look like that. They are legitimately proportioned like pinheaded gorilla men.
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Aug 24, 2014 19:30
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So I made some more terrain objects and stuff! I cast these up using a 2/3 concrete mortar to hydrostone mix. The hydrostone is just the agent which allows it to bind together well, and the concrete is there because it gives a great effect, and helps bulk out the mix to make it cheaper.  That's it right after casting and demolding. These thin parts do break easier though, as they don't have the strength a pure piece of hydrostone does. Doesn't matter though, as broken concrete parts are to be expected. The white piece is a pure piece of hydrostone, this one being the Virgin Mary as a small statuette. The round pieces are two small half-circles from a mold.  And this is them after I have given them a light scrub with a brush. Notice how the 'grain' of the concrete comes up? Once they're set, use a plastic bristle brush wet with some water and scrub over the surface. The finer plaster will be removed, leaving you small divots and pock marks over the surface, much like actual concrete made with aggregate. Make sure you wet the brush as it does cause very fine dust *cough cough*, and please wear a dust mask!  These pieces are a bunch of different styles from a bunch of different molds. Small square blocks for paving and tiling, tall star shapes which are excellent, and which I will use for the base of lightposts I think, a swirl one which will be used in much the same way, square ones I can turn into pot plants or other useful applications, right angle pieces for concrete edging, numbers for marking bunkers and district areas, and a small roundish piece I am sure I will find a use for.  The same pieces again, but with some put on a base, getting it ready to trim and fill to make up into a 55mm base to then make a mold from and sell! All in all I am having heaps of fun molding stuff and putting it together, and I will bring you more photo's of my progression as I do so 
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Aug 25, 2014 09:25
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The Dark Project posted:So I made some more terrain objects and stuff! Looking forward to seeing these finished. Speaking of finished, I'm think done with the oil derrick. The weathering obscured quite a bit of the graffiti (which was kind of the point) but I might add some more fresh tags in over the top, haven't decided yet.     Also pictured, a water-tower from a previous kickstarter (same company), and some Infinity figures for scale.
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Aug 25, 2014 21:40
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Awesome looking towers (and graffiti)!
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Aug 25, 2014 22:24
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Not mine, but this is some of the best use of crackling medium that I have ever seen. Thought I'd share:  
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Aug 25, 2014 22:33
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Holy poo poo that's gorgeous. That could be used to create a really nice looking cobblestone pathway.
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Aug 27, 2014 19:16
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Daedleh posted:This is the best book that GW have ever published by a long margin: So I was in Leiden today, checking up on an order of Panzergrenadiers. They hadn't come in yet, but as I was walking back to the train station I stopped in another hobby shop for a lark and guess what they had sitting on the bookshelves for 20 euro? :iamafag:
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Aug 30, 2014 15:40
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You should scan it, but 
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Aug 30, 2014 17:08
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Not a viking posted:You should scan it, but Like it hasn't already been done.
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Aug 30, 2014 17:16
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Just got in my objective markers from Germ's kickstarter. They're really nice! Lord knows when I'll get the time to paint them, but the grey resin actually looks decent in the meantime, even unpainted.
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Sep 8, 2014 20:46
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http://youtu.be/o5qHfkGC37s This guy's youtube channel seems legit! He really knows what he is doing with foam core.
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Sep 8, 2014 21:07
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Not a viking posted:http://youtu.be/o5qHfkGC37s Yep, TerrainTutor and RubbishInRubbishOut are both really good channels for getting loads of terrain tips and tricks. Another one I check out occasionally for terrain ideas is DMScotty's channel (though the stuff on his channel tends to focus more on terrain like dungeons and such for D&D/other RPGs, and not so much wargaming-type terrain; but with that said, there are still some useful techniques and ideas that can be used for both types of games).
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Sep 9, 2014 18:01
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Terranscapes has a fair amount of stuff, though its less tutorials and more a combination of product reviews and "this is what I'm working on right now" stuff. He usually goes into how he's going to do something and why, and there's plenty of stuff to mine ideas from. He's also a super cool guy I've met a couple times at the LGS who I only recently found out runs that channel, so there's that 
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Sep 9, 2014 20:19
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JerryLee posted:Just got in my objective markers from Germ's kickstarter. They're really nice! Lord knows when I'll get the time to paint them, but the grey resin actually looks decent in the meantime, even unpainted. Cool, glad you like them! I just picked up 90 gallons of resin and poured my first batch of 5 gallons of silicone for molds for the rest of the Kickstarter. That's a lot of resin  I second, third, whatever the Terranscapes stuff. I don't care for the redesign of his website, but his youtube channel is aces!
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Sep 9, 2014 23:25
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Buying that much resin at once has to put your name on a list somewhere 
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Sep 9, 2014 23:33
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Hey Germ - how do you get a smooth back on your one-sided casts? I'm having a hard time with that for some reason - you'd think it would be as easy as laying a piece of plexi on the mold, but that isn't working for me. Also, how, and to what, do you secure your masters before you pour the mold?
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Sep 10, 2014 00:39
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What are my options for sweeping curved buildings and roofs? I can do it with foam board, but that seems really awful for a whole board.
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Sep 10, 2014 01:10
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berzerkmonkey posted:Hey Germ - how do you get a smooth back on your one-sided casts? I'm having a hard time with that for some reason - you'd think it would be as easy as laying a piece of plexi on the mold, but that isn't working for me. Not really anything. I leave my backs open to the world. I've gotten pretty good at filling the open-faced molds just the amount needed, but if I overfill, I use a polyethylene squeegee, like they use for fiberglassing: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/supplies_tools/fiberglass_tools_supplies/tap_squeegee/178 If you wanted a perfectly smooth back, a piece of plexi well coated in mold release should work. Just make sure you "rock" it on from one side to another rather than dropping it flat on. Otherwise, you can always hit the back of the cured resin with a hand sander or something to give it a perfectly flat surface. Depends on what you're casting, though. For gluing the model down, I usually use plain old Elmer's glue-all (if it's a foam model) or hot glue (if it's resin or MDF oral stick or wood). The update here has a video showing a process I use to make one-off mold boxes, if you're interested: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/48375726/resin-terrain-for-miniature-gaming/posts/955396 Hope this helps!
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Sep 10, 2014 19:05
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I have a ton of pink insulation foam left over from some other projects (that didn't require any glue). I tried some spray adhesive I've used for other purposes on it but it turned into pink slime. Simple White (elmer's) glue took forever to cure and when it did the layers quickly separated anyway. What kind of glue am I supposed to use? Preferably one that wouldn't get in the way of me later carving into it.
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Sep 10, 2014 19:20
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You can get foam-specific glue at Michael's, etc. I've heard that Eileen's Tacky Glue (also at Michael's) works too, but I have no experience with it - it looks and smells like Elmer's to me, so... Gorilla Glue is also supposed to be good, but I've never used it for terrain. Liquid Nails (and they make a foam specific glue as well) works really well, BUT it is a pain to cut once it dries. I would recommend cutting your shapes first, then gluing.
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Sep 10, 2014 19:32
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:What are my options for sweeping curved buildings and roofs? I can do it with foam board, but that seems really awful for a whole board. Plastruct sells pre-molded plastic at a variety of scales to be used as sheet roofing or metail roofing for various projects. It shouldn't be too hard to bend that to the shape you want with a heatgun and some proper clamping and the like. It makes for a much better look overall. You can also buy 1/35 scale tiles of different sizes (cast in hydrostone or plaster) which you can then roof a building with if you want to go by hand. Again Plastruct also makes stuff like this in plastic if it's something you want to go for.
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Sep 10, 2014 19:53
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berzerkmonkey posted:I've heard that Eileen's Tacky Glue (also at Michael's) works too, but I have no experience with it - it looks and smells like Elmer's to me, so... Gorilla Glue is also supposed to be good, but I've never used it for terrain. They're both PVA glue, but normal Elmer's White Glue is thinner and dries slower. Apparently the strongest/fastest PVA glue is bookbinder's glue. I don't like Gorilla Glue. It can foam up and be difficult to cut or file down after the fact.
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Sep 10, 2014 20:07
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For PVA glue, I use Weldbond, and have never had any problems, it is pretty strong and can be cut / sanded just fine afterwards. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=weldbond&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aweldbond
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Sep 10, 2014 21:11
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I successfully glued pink foam to MDF using a hot glue gun. It is very firm and shows no sign of separation after a year. Re: Gorilla Glue: that is a brand, as well as a specific glue. Gorilla sells several different formulations. When discussing it it's good to say what glue you're talking about. The assumption is that you're talking about their basic "Gorilla Glue" (which is confusing) but I've seen cases where someone is actually talking about their cyanoacrylate or wood glue products. Basic Gorilla Glue is an expanding glue, so it is best used where you are trying to fill or bridge a gap, bond two porous surfaces together, or bond objects that need to flex a little bit. It is not intended to be workable after drying: for that you typically want some kind of epoxy, or a glue specifically designed to be workable.
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Sep 10, 2014 22:13
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Numlock posted:I have a ton of pink insulation foam left over from some other projects (that didn't require any glue). Uhu por. Poor bonds and melting can be avoided with some highschool level chemistry. e: Apologies. That unintentionally sounded a bit dickish, but reading labels and figuring out what the stuff you are working with is actually made of will avoid all/most didasters. alcyon fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Sep 11, 2014 |
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Sep 11, 2014 06:46
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Liquid Nails is boss for gluing foam together.
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Sep 11, 2014 15:13
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I like spray adhesive. And speaking of which, totally unrelated to terrain but.. I tried loctite spray adhesive and it remains super tacky but not hardened after like a week. Anyone got suggestions for a spray adhesive that makes a permanent, flexible bond?
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Sep 11, 2014 15:18
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How do folks feel about hot glue for pink foam? I've used it on smaller pieces that you can press together before the glue sets into a harder bead preventing a seal. Cheap, instant bond in my limited experience but it may not be as durable.
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Sep 11, 2014 17:17
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parabolic posted:How do folks feel about hot glue for pink foam? I've used it on smaller pieces that you can press together before the glue sets into a harder bead preventing a seal. Cheap, instant bond in my limited experience but it may not be as durable. I don't like it because the bond might be strong but the adhesion is very uneven if you're doing larger pieces. Of course I'm talking about a 2'x2' board against the same size pink foam square, but I found that I didn't like the hot glue's short working life.
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Sep 11, 2014 17:25
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Leperflesh posted:I successfully glued pink foam to MDF using a hot glue gun. It is very firm and shows no sign of separation after a year. I was working with smaller pieces, making hills and buildings out of pink foam. You definitely want to work very quickly, with a good hot glue gun that can pump out a lot of volume, because you need to jam the two sides together firmly before the glue cools much. I'm sure there are stronger bonds and stuff that you can take more time with, but you can't beat hot glue for price, and it's a useful thing for other general home stuff so we have it around anyway and I always prefer that over a specialized one-use product.
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Sep 12, 2014 00:27
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Tacky Glue is best for cardboard and pink/blue foam. It's like halfway between elmers glue and hot glue and it holds stuff real nice. Also its available at pretty much every place with an art section (WalMart, Michaels, Fred Meyer, etc).
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Sep 12, 2014 02:54
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I did start working on another building recently, just prototyping some designs.   The sample turned out well, was really easy to assemble. But I want to give my stuff a little more detail and favor.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:01
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Good for plain shopfronts though. Would go well in a game of Infinity for lower-tech groups like Ariadna (not everything has to be hexagons!!!)
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Sep 12, 2014 18:23
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poo poo, laser some skeletons into the side and I'd buy a couple to fill out my 40k table.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:39
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LumberingTroll posted:I did start working on another building recently, just prototyping some designs. I've grown quite fond of Renaissance Miniature's style - walls are two pieces, with the backing layer as one part and then some 3D details on the next. My only issue with them are some bad cuts on a few pieces and the annoyance of having to very, very carefully assemble anything modular due to poor fits on second story areas. Either way, anything that fills space, looks decent, and can fit miniatures inside is really good in my book. Just finished building a ton of RM's modular buildings for my table project - they look good on my Hirst tiles, and while the doors are tiny compared to any heroic 28/32mm mini bases, they've worked out well on the field.
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Sep 12, 2014 23:19
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What scale should I look for if I want to use third party vehicles or trains for infinity/28 mm wargaming?
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Sep 13, 2014 14:01
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