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Put the sub in your normal listening position (probably on the couch), then play some bassy music and do the "subwoofer crawl" along the walls. Wherever the bass sounds best is where you should put your sub.
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Aug 13, 2014 06:20
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I have a 12 inch pioneer sub in my car but the box seems pretty small. I have a really good amp that has more than enough power. If I leave everything the same but just get a bigger box, will that increase the loudness of the sub? And can I port any sub box?
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Aug 13, 2014 11:41
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I'm looking for some bookshelf speakers. I had the infinity beta 20's for a few years and loved them but I just moved and am looking for something a tiny bit smaller. (Hope this is the right thread for recommendations, it was this or the first home audio thread)
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Aug 14, 2014 04:52
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Here is what I've currently got going. I've removed the speaker grill and added the cabinets, ready for drawers.: Even though this hasn't been answered I'm looking into getting samples of different AT screen material and if I like what I see I will re - screen my frame. I'm unsure how it will attach to the current frame as the current setup has rods that go through a folded loop and is then clipped in place. edit: poo poo this stuff is relatively cheap. I didn't know that a screen's major cost was the frame until now. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Aug 14, 2014 |
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Aug 14, 2014 05:36
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Does anyone have an extra pioneer mcacc mic that I could toss you a couple of bucks for? I seem to have lost mine and I picked up a new sub woofer, and I'd like to get it properly calibrated.
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Aug 15, 2014 04:57
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I bought a SoundBlaster Play (little USB sound card) for my work PC to replace the terrible onboard sound since I listen to a lot of music at work on pretty nice Sennheiser headphones. It sounds nice, but the output is really high, to the point that I have to have the Windows volume control set to a max of about 4 or 5 to avoid destroying my eardrums. My question is, is this effectively crushing my bit depth to gently caress all? I know that it is going to be reducing it at least a bit, but I guess my question is how badly? As far as I understand it, since 7, Windows has used 32-bits internally to try and reduce this effect, so maybe it's not so bad, but I'd like to know. And I guess my second question would be - if this is dramatically reducing my sound quality, then is there anything else I can do about it? Or does anyone know of a little external soundcard/DAC with its own analogue volume control that doesn't cost the earth? e: http://blog.szynalski.com/2009/11/17/an-audiophiles-look-at-the-audio-stack-in-windows-vista-and-7/ - this claims "no loss of resolution when you lower the volume of a stream". Can that be true? chippy fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 10:42
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I use a USB DAC myself. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4?pc_redir=1407906871&robot_redir=1 On the subject of volume levels, is there a way to get line level volume out of usb for a DAC? I was able to do it for my receiver via hdmi, but it was a convoluted installation of extra software and settings for media player classic that only works at the bitstream level for DTS and Dolby.
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Aug 15, 2014 13:09
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Aeka 2.0 posted:On the subject of volume levels, is there a way to get line level volume out of usb for a DAC? What are you really looking for here? Analog output level is a function of the DAC itself.
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Aug 15, 2014 13:18
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Yeah, surely the term 'line level' is only really relevant to an analogue signal?
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Aug 15, 2014 13:21
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Oh, good, it's actual gibberish rather than me having a stroke.
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Aug 15, 2014 13:30
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The loss in bit depth from a digital volume control is marginal and it's better to use than an analog knob. Don't listen to audiophile morons.
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Aug 15, 2014 16:41
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BANME.sh posted:The loss in bit depth from a digital volume control is marginal and it's better to use than an analog knob. Don't listen to audiophile morons. Even if I'm reducing to less than 5% of full volume? Can you explain why it's better than an analogue knob? I'm not doubting you, I just like to know the science/maths behind such things.
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Aug 15, 2014 17:23
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chippy posted:Even if I'm reducing to less than 5% of full volume? Can you explain why it's better than an analogue knob? I'm not doubting you, I just like to know the science/maths behind such things. The loss of dynamic range will be smaller than the overall volume over the noise floor, rendering it irrelevant. As long as you don't re-amplify the signal after attenuating it, it'll be fine. That goes for analog volume controls as well. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 17:29
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chippy posted:Even if I'm reducing to less than 5% of full volume? Can you explain why it's better than an analogue knob? I'm not doubting you, I just like to know the science/maths behind such things.
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Aug 15, 2014 17:36
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Flipperwaldt posted:There was a clear example of what reducing the volume to 10% would do on the page you linked yourself. Fair point, but that is reducing to 10% with a 24-bit output stream. It seems like the SB Play only has a 16-bit output stream (viewing Device Properties, 'Advanced' tab), and I'm reducing to typically around 3% or 4%. So would that make a difference? Or does the reduction still happen using Windows' 32-bit internal stream? chippy fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 18:02
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chippy posted:Fair point, but that is reducing to 10% with a 24-bit output stream. It seems like the SB Play only has a 16-bit output stream (viewing Device Properties, 'Advanced' tab), and I'm reducing to typically around 3% or 4%. So would that make a difference? Or does the reduction still happen using Windows' 32-bit internal stream? Anything about 16 bit/44 kHz is superfluous unless you want to do studio work on the audio tracks, since 16 bit already more than covers everything the human ear can hear, so it shouldn't make a difference. Decius fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 18:08
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chippy posted:Fair point, but that is reducing to 10% with a 24-bit output stream. It seems like the SB Play only has a 16-bit output stream (viewing Device Properties, 'Advanced' tab), and I'm reducing to typically around 3% or 4%. So would that make a difference? Or does the reduction still happen using Windows' 32-bit internal stream? Same goddamn article posted:So Windows Vista and Windows 7 upconvert all your samples to 32-bit floats and mix them with 32-bit precision into an output stream that, by default, has the highest bit depth that your hardware can handle. The output bit depth is customizable; you can change it in the properties of your audio device. If you change it e.g. to 16 bits, the audio engine will still use 32-bit floats for internal processing — it will just downconvert the resulting stream to 16 bits before sending it to your device. e. Fair enough if you want a useable volume control though.
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Aug 15, 2014 18:14
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Ok cool, thanks everyone.
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Aug 15, 2014 22:42
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I'm looking at Bluetooth receivers, mainly for my cheapo Logitech PC speakers to play audio off my tablet (Galaxy Tab 3 7.0). Trying to be as cheap a sumbitch as possible. (If cheap enough, I may pick up another couple of 'em for work and other use.) There's a ton of these ultracheap USB-powered jobs on Amazon, but gently caress-all reviews. I can live with the USB power, don't need battery capability, but does anyone have any experience with these?
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Aug 24, 2014 06:23
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I just procured some nice floorstanding speakers. I have an Onkyo TX-SR507 receiver. My speakers have 2 pairs of inputs. How can I wire this badboy? According to the onkyo manual my model doesn't support bi amping, so how can I bi-wire these?
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Aug 24, 2014 22:18
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Don't bother, it doesn't do anything. Just leave the brackets on and wire them normally to one set of terminals.
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Aug 24, 2014 22:25
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So how can I hook these up? Just run one set of cables to the speakers and get a metal bridge thing? They didn't come with brackets.
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Aug 24, 2014 22:27
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If the brackets aren't there, just run the positive wire to both positive terminals and the negative wire to both negative terminals. Or use a couple of short pieces of wire in place of the brackets.
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Aug 24, 2014 22:29
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I just want to sit on my lazy rear end and remote control my PC spotify from my iPhone spotify . That's all I want. And a cold beer. Spotify connect baffles me , it's supposed to let you do that but all I get I synching and who the hell needs that. Please offer guidance, I am in dire need to scare the kids with some technical death metal
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Sep 2, 2014 19:51
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sofokles posted:I just want to sit on my lazy rear end and remote control my PC spotify from my iPhone spotify . That's all I want. And a cold beer. Spotify Connect hasn't been rolled out to the PC version, yet. There may be 3rd party apps to get around this. As a side note, I was able to use Spotify Connect to control my iPhone's Spotify from my Android phone, which is... less than useful. I guess I can use it at parties by plugging one phone into the speaker system and controlling it with the other phone, or something.
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Sep 2, 2014 20:59
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KillHour posted:Spotify Connect hasn't been rolled out to the PC version, yet. There may be 3rd party apps to get around this. Thanks that could be remotely useful
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Sep 2, 2014 21:12
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sofokles posted:Thanks that could be remotely useful If you want to listen to music from your couch and don't want to spring for a receiver with Spotify Connect built in, you could always get a set-top Android box and put the Spotify app on it. You may also be able to sideload Spotify on a Fire TV (I don't have one, or I'd try it out). Edit: If you wanted to either be extremely cheap or  , you could also put Android on a Raspberry Pi (don't actually do this).
KillHour fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 21:28
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Are there any wireless rear speaker kits/adapters/etc that work fairly well? I don't really care about full range ability, because I want two tiny speakers to sit on a table behind my sofa that can give me some surround effects.
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Sep 3, 2014 03:41
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ShaneB posted:Are there any wireless rear speaker kits/adapters/etc that work fairly well? I don't really care about full range ability, because I want two tiny speakers to sit on a table behind my sofa that can give me some surround effects. If they don't need to go very loud, something like this might work. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=109&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011011&p_id=10601&seq=1&format=2 If you have a lot of wireless interference in the area, you might want to go with something on the 5GHz band instead of 2.4.
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Sep 3, 2014 14:52
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KillHour posted:
Ey I've got a pi somewhere, could be fun to try. Thanks for the help. Think it's time to get some sort of receiver though, or go the Bluetooth route.
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Sep 3, 2014 18:49
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I'm looking for a portable radio/boombox type thing to get my dad for tailgating. The "must haves" are pretty simple: 1. Water resistant enough to handle moderate rain and/or spilled beer. 2. Can run for a good part of a day on batteries. 3. AM/FM tuner with a telescoping antenna. 4. Some way to connect to a phone, preferably Bluetooth but a good old 1/8" aux input is fine too. I can find dozens of Bluetooth-only units and a few with FM-only tuners, but adding AM to the equation seems to knock it down to only models that haven't been produced for years. I don't get it, there are still plenty out there with cassette players that practically no one will use but AM radio which is still huge for sports is apparently unimportant.
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Sep 6, 2014 18:48
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The first hit under boom box on amazon was a sony that does everything you're looking for. It's the CFDS50. Aux input not Bluetooth.
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Sep 6, 2014 18:54
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BigFactory posted:The first hit under boom box on amazon was a sony that does everything you're looking for. It's the CFDS50. Aux input not Bluetooth. Not water resistant in any way as far as I can tell. That one is the "plan B" if I can't find anything better because it's cheap enough that if it gets killed it's not too bad to replace.
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Sep 6, 2014 19:05
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All of my local AM sports stations are simulcast on FM now. AM is quickly becoming less important for a lot of people.
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Sep 6, 2014 20:50
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eddiewalker posted:All of my local AM sports stations are simulcast on FM now. AM is quickly becoming less important for a lot of people. Or just use smart phone + tuneIn app. I'd wager anything billed as water resistant is the exact same thing painted yellow for more money, too.
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Sep 6, 2014 21:57
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eddiewalker posted:All of my local AM sports stations are simulcast on FM now. AM is quickly becoming less important for a lot of people. That was my thought initially as well, I know I'm annoyed that my favorite local rock station gets taken over whenever the local teams are playing, but I'm told my dad's favorite station to listen to the game is on the AM band so that's a hard requirement here. BigFactory posted:Or just use smart phone + tuneIn app. Government issued phone, plus it's a crappy old Blackberry, so app selection is limited to begin with and the device is locked down beyond that unfortunately. After discussing it with my brother who lives in the area and tailgates with him regularly I'm looking at "jobsite" radios that run on power tool batteries, just waiting on finding out what if any modern power tool batteries he already has, and if nothing works there I'm thinking I'll drop the Aux input and go with this one that's from a no-name brand but has a lot of good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033WSDY2/
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Sep 6, 2014 23:12
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I have a pair of computer speakers that I use to listen to streaming radio via my smartphone at work. I'd like to have a radio to plug into the speakers for when I'm running low on my data plan. This Sony radio is probably the absolute best thing available bar a big desktop radio tuner: is there another quality portable tuner that's highly recommended and less expensive?
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Sep 9, 2014 00:06
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Apologies in advance if this isn't the right thread for this question. Are there any cigarette lighter FM transmitters that aren't complete crap? Thus far all my searching has yielded off-brands with 50/50 good/bad reviews, some who've used the product for years with no problem, some who had the things break the first day the plugged it in. If the $10 ones are just as eh as the $50, I'd rather not waste the extra money. Going on a long car trip soon, and the CD player in my car broke, and I don't have the time to get it fixed nor to have a proper audio-in jack installed. Would much rather listen to Spotify than myself whistling the entire time. Thanks!
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Sep 11, 2014 20:26
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Does a portable audio player exist that: A) Supports 128 GB microSD B) Designed to play FLAC files efficiently (i.e. not a device that 'can' play FLAC files but loses 50% of its battery life while doing so) C) Has an easily replaceable battery
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Sep 14, 2014 21:53
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68k posted:Does a portable audio player exist that: Headfi likes the Fiio X3 and it seems to fit most of your criteria. Quick swap batteries are pretty much gone in favor of cramming as much liion capacity as possible in a small form.
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Sep 14, 2014 21:58
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