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Mecha Neko posted:I haven't posted since my last costume, and I'm almost done with this year's Halloween costume: one of the Amazonian fembots from the Robot Restaurant show in Shinjuku, Tokyo. I heart this show so much, and I've been planning this costume since they opened in 2012. It's madness. This video (http://youtu.be/w2lQCLS8IxY) and Anthony Bourdain's segment (http://eater.com/archives/2013/11/04/watch-bourdain-visit-tokyos-insane-robot-restaurant.php) come fairly close to giving the highlights, but you're going to have to just take my word for it that no amount of pictures or video can really capture the live experience. Thank you so much for enlightening me on this. I have never seen such... something?
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Sep 15, 2014 08:07
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Mecha Neko posted:My robot lady project Not pretty? How about pretty awesome. That's gonna look fab. Please share when you're all done!
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Sep 15, 2014 12:26
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So I've done a huge amount of work on my Star Lord costume, but I don't have a ton of time to type things up until later on this evening. I do, however, want to post this one thing as a teaser.   Infinity Gem is go!
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Sep 15, 2014 18:34
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Has anyone used a company that does custom printed leggings like this one? http://www.funnylegs.com/Leggings-swimsuits-tights-design-yourself.html I only need them to stand up to being worn once or twice, so I'm not too worried if they don't last through repeated washing to be honest, but I'm curious as to what the quality is like.
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Sep 15, 2014 19:21
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Has anyone used a company that does custom printed leggings like this one? http://www.funnylegs.com/Leggings-swimsuits-tights-design-yourself.html You should ask in the Women's Fashion Megathread. At the very least, Queen Elizatits might chime in on overall fabric quality. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3522689
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Sep 15, 2014 20:07
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:
Holy crap. How? v v v That's amazing! a cock shaped fruit fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Sep 16, 2014 |
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Sep 15, 2014 23:39
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a cock shaped fruit posted:Holy crap. How? It's a purple-tinted translucent rock lit from beneath by three LEDs. I used an Adafruit Trinket arduino, which was like $7 and also crazy small, to power the light show. It's completely random - each LED functions independently and will fade to random intensities at random speeds to try and give a sort of 'stormy' effect inside the crystal. I tried a bunch of different iterations of the crystal. The first few had LEDs embedded inside the stones, but I quickly determined that the lighting effects you'd get from that were not as good as I would have liked, because the LEDs I have available to me have a fairly narrow field of illumination - you can see them best only from head-on.  I also played around a bit with different intensities of dye. The rightmost is the original rock I just picked up off the ground outside my shed and cast - the subsequent castings run right to left in that picture. I botched my painting of the inside halves of the orb tonight, or I'd have finished pictures of the drat thing. The black wash I was using to try and pop details out dried really poorly and potentially ruined the piece. I'm rehabilitating them with oil paints at the moment, watered down with mineral spirits, but oil paints take an age and a half to dry so I'll have a better idea tomorrow if I need to reprint things.
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Sep 16, 2014 04:50
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Infinity Orb's done! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCL1QeswBh0
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Sep 16, 2014 21:02
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Infinity Orb's done! Yesssssss! That is fantastic well done!
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Sep 16, 2014 21:14
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Infinity Orb's done! drat. All the work you've posted is incredible, but I have to say, I would especially love to have myself a glowing rock (er, Infinity Orb) like that.
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Sep 16, 2014 22:26
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Infinity Orb's done! Now how much are you going to charge me for one of these? 
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Sep 17, 2014 03:34
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drat, nice work on the Orb. I miss having a 3D printer, but that takes it up a notch with the finishing you did on it. So I've gotten the shoulder piece mostly done for Viktor:  I still have to finish up the LEDs for the palm of the hand, and maybe work on some shading and detail paint - which I'm terrible at.  Onto the leg armor, which is going to be loads of fun. 
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Sep 18, 2014 04:21
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Infinity Orb's done! Holy poo poo. If you are doing a run of these, please keep me in mind. That is awesome!
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Sep 18, 2014 10:42
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A bunch of people have been asking me, and I think I will put a run of them together after NYCC is over - all my time between then and now is taken up by trying to get my Star Lord costume together! But yeah. I want to redo it in cold cast aluminum. I spent a lot of time resizing and rejiggering the Star Lord helmet and I think I've got it printing at something a human being can comfortably wear without it looking hilariously huge.    Getting the mouth and chin printed out should finish it off nicely, although there will be a lot of body work, sanding, and patching. I'd ideally like to cast it in resin so I can wear it a bit easier, but we'll see what time allows before the convention. I also finally got around to modelling up a lower barrel for my blasters.  I'll be 100% honest and say I didn't know what exactly to do with it. Based on the reference imagery I've seen of it...  ... it looks like different guns have different bottom barrel extensions? Or I guess the design of it is extendable? I don't know. All I know is that most of the photos I've seen of Chris Pratt holding the thing have the shorter, retracted-barrel version, so I went with that for the time being. The section beneath the barrel is just me making stuff up, because as best as I can tell, there has never been any images released of it up-close. Since I'm using RGB LEDs that will behave differently depending on the state of the gun, I figured I would use the bottom barrel as a chance to emphasize that state change - when 'overheated', the LEDs will pulse a red warning pattern. With that in mind, I designed a pair of LED holes for the bottom barrel, and that vented lower section will be illuminated from within by one of the RGB LEDs. I'll probably put some frosted acrylic behind the holes so that when the gun fans open and goes into overheated mode, you'll see the venting glowing alongside everything else. The vented 'top' section for the vented lower section is designed to be printed as a separate piece and just plug in. I did that because I might change that design down the line, and also because it saved me having to print supports inside the gun itself.   The top and bottom barrel shrouds are just loosely fitted in place - I know they look crooked. They can't sit flush against the body of the gun unless the hinges are attached properly, since otherwise they get in the way. I'll get the whole thing fitted together properly tomorrow and confirm that the upper and lower shrouds can still move okay with my barrel extensions in place.
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Sep 19, 2014 06:14
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I got the mouth plate printed out, but I had a bit of a misprint where one of the pipes didn't stick very well to the front part of the mask. I may reprint the mouth after I fix that, but it's easy enough to do. For now, I just taped it onto the helmet to check for scale.   Not bad. Certainly a better fit than the first few tries. There's a gap by the cheek, apparently, which I think is caused by the fact that I may have glued the eyeplate on a little farther out than was intended on the original model. That's super easy to fix with just a strip of styrene and some body filler, though. It is a lot flatter than the original mouthplate, which I think is a marked improvement, but it's also a little thinner, which is why I think one of the pipes broke off. Something for me to address. Here's a comparison with my original print of Helagak's model.   I'll probably print the chin out tonight while I see how easy it'd be to fix the pipes on the mouth seamlessly. I may reprint the mouth plate, just to be safe. I hate that Helagak's original mouthplate has this weird rippled texture all over it - it's part of the base mesh - but it should sand out easily enough, and I don't have the time to totally remodel the part. In other news, my walkman is coming along pretty splendidly.     Only thing left to do is slide the lithium battery in there with it and wire up the switches on the other pieces. I want to utilize the existing buttons on the outside of my fake 3d printed walkman because, frankly, I think it'd be cool as poo poo if the FFW, REW, and PLAY buttons actually worked. The orange 'hot mic' button on the top of the walkman unit will be made into a pushbutton toggle to turn the whole device on and off. It blasts the music out of the fake tape reel in the front of the tape, and thanks to the little amplifier circuit I wired in, it's loud as hell. I'm really thrilled with how this part's going so far!
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Sep 19, 2014 20:46
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I ordered a Le Tigre wig from Arda, but that fucker is long. Any advice on cutting it while preserving the layers?
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Sep 19, 2014 20:58
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Count me in on interest for an infinity orb. Should you do a run. Awesome job on the rest of the Star-Lord process as well!
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Sep 20, 2014 01:46
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Funky Bunch Wikia, I can't wait to see you at NYCC. I'll be in a technicolor coat and yellow trousers, as seen waaay upthread. Your stuff looks rad as hell!
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Sep 20, 2014 01:56
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 I'll be sure to keep an eye out.  MY GIRLFRIEND is going as a female groot, so if you spot either of us, flag us down and I promise I will let you cup my ball, if you know what I mean.
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Sep 20, 2014 04:31
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  My Star Lord Walkman is pretty much ready to be painted and closed up, but I didn't have weather in my favor today, so I ended up poking at it and adding a couple more features. I wired the FFW and REW buttons into Next Track and Previous Track, respectively, and the play button now... well, plays and pauses the tracks. The entire device can be toggled on and off via pushbutton on top of the device, disguised under the "Hot Mic" orange button that sticks out of the top. There's now a stereo jack to plug a pair of headphones into, and I replaced the second hole that would normally be a second headphone jack on the device with a red LED indicator. But, for this next part - never let it be said that I know when to quit. I was thinking about how best to get the branding on the front of the Walkman - the "SONY", "WALKMAN", and arrow designs. And I got to thinking... why not 3d print them? I hauled the logos into Illustrator, vectorized them and turned them into splines that 3d Studio Max could use, extruded some shapes out of them, and before I knew it, I had some models done! I loaded them into my slicing software - Simplify3d - and had the program put together paths that the printer could follow to recreate the logos.  The logos are backwards - this is on purpose. My print bed is a slab of heated glass, and the surfaces that are face-down on the plate tend to print mirror-smooth, whereas the printer will create visible lines on the top surfaces of the thing you're producing. The other huge benefit to 3d printing on a glass surface is that when you're done with the print, you put the whole glass plate, print and all, into a fridge or freezer. The materials (plastic and glass) contract at different rates as they cool, which basically makes the prints fall off the plate.  Here's my printed letters! I'm holding them up on the glass plate. I popped them off, and just laid them out roughly...  ... and then decided to get a bit more intelligent about how I was gluing these things down. I poured out some superglue, used a piece of scrap plastic to scrape it into a thin sheet, then grabbed a pair of tweezers and carefully dipped the letters into the glue. Then, I moved the letters into position, using the blue tape as a baseline for the letters, and pressed them down hard once they were lined up in the right place.  And when it's all said and done...   Yeah, okay, it's not 100% perfect. But if anyone leans in that close to this thing on my belt to critique my kerning, they're going to get a knee to the jaw. I primed it with some high fill primer to help close any gaps up, and now I'm leaving it to sit overnight. Hopefully by tomorrow the weather will be more cooperative and I will have the chance to spray my metallic blue!
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Sep 21, 2014 05:12
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Is that a 3d printed groot mask in the background there on the last shot?
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Sep 21, 2014 09:54
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I wish it were 3D printed, but Funky Bunch Wikia is jealously guarding his printer for his own fevered projects. I carved it from EVA foam with a dremel, copying the idea from some other fantastic cosplay of Groot that I saw pictures of a while back.
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Sep 21, 2014 16:31
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I absolutely can't wait to see Star Lord all together! I have a question for the thread, though...I've been asked to make a couple of executioner hoods, but it seems that either my google-fu has failed me, or there just aren't really any good patterns out there for the drat things. Any ideas that might help, especially with finishing eyeholes when you don't have a serger?
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Sep 21, 2014 17:33
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taiyoko posted:I absolutely can't wait to see Star Lord all together! I'm sure someone will have the perfect pattern, but have you been to a fabric store and looked through their pattern books? There is usually one for Halloween costumes. Otherwise, you could get a normal hood pattern and maybe sew some fabric to the front and cut eye holes in it? So, Funky Bunch Wikia, I see you have a 3-D printer...What are the chances of letting someone eventually throw money at you to make a simple thing?  It would just be the center part and the plates the knives sit on. I don't have access to a 3-D printer anywhere, or anyone who knows how to use the software to design such things...Well, there is a Geek Group near me, but I don't have $60 a month to spend on a place I would never have a chance to go to. \/\/I know someone who works there. However, They don't have a big enough 3-D printer. They DO have 5 of those little itty bitty ones though. If I knew how to make the model I need, which might not be too hard (although I don't have the programs to make the model), I'm sure my friend could try to make it, but it would be in probably 5-10 pieces. The small ones fail and jam all the time as well. The Repo Man fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Sep 21, 2014 |
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Sep 21, 2014 20:47
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If you're talking about a makerspace/hackerspace, google "makerspace <your city>" and see if they have a website. Plenty of makerspaces let people visit for free, or have open house days where people can come and use stuff for free. A lot of them also will give discounted or free memberships to people who can add value to the place in other ways, like teaching classes or helping keep out with other people's projects there or something.
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Sep 21, 2014 20:59
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Or ask in the handy hackspaces http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3412940 or 3d printing http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3365193 threads, wherein someone may be willing to help out.
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Sep 21, 2014 22:52
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I'll look into those threads, thanks. I know the local hacker space is trying to get a bigger 3-D printer, but everything they get is on donation. They have the software, but they don't do free days very often, mostly 1-2 times a year at most, so I can't learn on their computers how to make the models. If I can get the software I need, I could probably design the entirety of the knife then find somewhere to print it.
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Sep 21, 2014 23:35
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Does it have to be printed? You could turn that handle on a lathe in wood, or make it out of plastic tube fairly easily.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:25
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The Repo Man posted:So, Funky Bunch Wikia, I see you have a 3-D printer...What are the chances of letting someone eventually throw money at you to make a simple thing? I'd be happy to print you what you need, but it might have to wait until after NYCC. Hit me up with a PM when you have the time. Do you have the model you want to print already, or do you need it made? Anyway, my Star Lord Walkman's done. Think I might do the belt a little later on, and I'm working on the gun barrels pretty much continually throughout this whole process.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-E8KScdzTc
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Sep 22, 2014 23:56
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I'd be happy to print you what you need, but it might have to wait until after NYCC. Hit me up with a PM when you have the time. Do you have the model you want to print already, or do you need it made? This is rad.
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Sep 23, 2014 00:11
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I'd be happy to print you what you need, but it might have to wait until after NYCC. Hit me up with a PM when you have the time. Do you have the model you want to print already, or do you need it made? Holy WoW. That owns,
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Sep 23, 2014 00:38
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:Anyway, my Star Lord Walkman's done. Think I might do the belt a little later on, and I'm working on the gun barrels pretty much continually throughout this whole process. That is just so amazing!
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Sep 23, 2014 01:23
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I'd be happy to print you what you need, but it might have to wait until after NYCC. Hit me up with a PM when you have the time. Do you have the model you want to print already, or do you need it made? Stop being so good at things, you make the rest of us look bad. The knife body can wait as long as you need it to wait. I don't have platinum, but I can PM you on Youtube as user RainartXIII. I also don't have a model, but it's an extremely simple design.
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Sep 23, 2014 03:20
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So I'm getting into prop making and what not and I was wondering if I could get some tips on something. I have a friend who is dressing up as Kira Nerys in all but name. She's also taking the rather economical route of being "bad rear end freedom fighter Kira" instead of "jumpsuit Federation Kira" so she can thrift store some rugged fighting clothes.  I've been amassing tools and supplies for prop making and offered to give a shot at making a Bajoran Pistol and Bajoran Tricorder set for her.  Right now the plan is to use EVA foam to form the tricorder and see how it all goes. If it succeeds I'll move onto the gun. My big question for anyone that's handled EVA before is what would be a good way to glue on small details? I am using a thicker foam for the bulk of the object and have a thinner foam for buttons and other details. I would like them to stay put and ideally not have to worry about edges or flaps popping up and being a snag hazard. The other detail I'd like but will gladly just not worry about is that the prop appears to have a matte coating for the base of the tricorder and a gloss coat for the buttons. I've had Matte and Gloss coats interact poorly in tests and I know in the end I'll want a few good sealing coats over the whole thing, but I'm not sure if I can do that AND have variance with the finishes. I've looked online at various tutorials but I'm incredibly new to all this to the point where I don't even know where the gaps in my knowledge are so any comments would be hugely helpful. Also holy Christ Funky Bunch Wikia, your stuff has come out fantastic. edit. This the current status:  I kind of don't want to paint it now, but *sigh* source accuracy... My big worry is that since the base is two layers on top of each other that I will need to do some heavy work to make the seams not show. JossiRossi fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Sep 24, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 23:41
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Funky Bunch Wikia posted:I'd be happy to print you what you need, but it might have to wait until after NYCC. Hit me up with a PM when you have the time. Do you have the model you want to print already, or do you need it made? How'd you get it so LOUD? It might actually almost be ~audible~ through the crowd.
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Sep 23, 2014 23:48
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DoctorWhat posted:How'd you get it so LOUD? It might actually almost be ~audible~ through the crowd. I'm also interested in this. I have a sound track for a thing I want to do, but you can't hear it less than a foot away from my lovely cellphone. I don't have any other pocket sized playback devices, and building a circuit that I could plug into a cellphone or MP3 player to blast it would be preferable.
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Sep 24, 2014 14:05
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DoctorWhat posted:How'd you get it so LOUD? It might actually almost be ~audible~ through the crowd. That was the hope! I remember the last few times I went to NYCC being super jealous of the awesome Ghostbusters that would wander around and be able to trigger the theme song and blast it out of their Proton Packs. It was a really cool touch, so I wanted to have something similar for my Star Lord costume that I could use intermittently. It's actually a very thin speaker without a ton of range, but it's got an amplifier circuit built in, and I also hot glued it with a good seal to a cylinder:  The cylinder acts as a reverb chamber and substantially increases the volume in the same way a megaphone might; energy from sound waves from the speaker would normally disperse in all directions, but instead the tube focuses the waves in a particular direction, making it louder in the front. The body of the Walkman itself also helps act as a sort of bass. So last night a stab was made at starting the belt. I have never worked with leather before, so I'm not entirely confident in what I'm doing, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to try! The belt was roughly patterned out of canvas so there was some idea of what might fit around my waist. Then we transferred the lines to the back of the leather with the help of my lovely assistant, who has a steadier hand than I do.    Then we started cutting it out!     And finally, I hit the pieces with some brown leather dye. This revealed a couple flawed areas in the leather where the brand was and also caused the leather to curl up and wrinkle a little bit, but I think it'll be okay.  The real awful challenge here is going to be trying to sew this stuff together, but first I need to apply a finish to the leather, smooth down the edges a bit, and see if I can't figure out how to flatten the leather back down where the edges are curling.
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Sep 24, 2014 14:08
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There's a leather working thread here, they could help you find the right tools and supplies and methods for the belt.
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Sep 24, 2014 14:16
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Danger - Octopus! posted:Has anyone used a company that does custom printed leggings like this one? http://www.funnylegs.com/Leggings-swimsuits-tights-design-yourself.html The one place where I expected people to know about leggings, and nobody says a peep... Okay. I pulled up some of QE's posts on the subject of fabric quality. I see that this company uses an 80% Polyester/20% Spandex blend, which according to QE (whose wisdom I trust) puts the leggings in this quality range: Queen Elizatits posted:When you are looking at buying leggings it's really helpful I find to look at the fabric content. Those leggings are 95% polyester which is kind of high, most printed leggings are about 85% poly and 15% spandex. Queen Elizatits posted:You would want four way stretch material, nothing coated or foiled, and preferably at least 15% spandex. Queen Elizatits posted:I would be leery of them as well. For one thing I couldn't find a single actual product picture on their page, everything is a photoshop template mock up. Maybe I missed them though. Their leggings are almost all black milk ripoffs with the added bonus of being 100% polyester meaning they would have a pretty bad fit to start with, lose their stretchiness and shape, and fade a lot more than a product made with at least 15% spandex. The fact they are charging $50 for those isn't a great sign for the quality of anything they are selling. Queen Elizatits posted:Aside from the too long problem the rest of the issues sound like a fabric problem. Those gap leggings you linked are 95% modal which is pretty much jersey. It's wonderful and soft and lovely for shirts but it's really not great for leggings. Like you said when it stretches it's see through. That fabric is only 5% spandex is is way too low for leggings. If you want something that keeps it shape, fits snuggly, and it isn't see through you want it to be at least 15% spandex, 18% is ideal. If you are looking at stretch velvet it'll be a little lower, velvet is usually about 10% spandex. So -- based on the above fabric assessments, I think you'll be in good shape for your custom printed leggings. I'm sorry for such a delayed response on this subject! Wikia, I love your work!
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Sep 24, 2014 15:36
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JossiRossi posted:So I'm getting into prop making and what not and I was wondering if I could get some tips on something. I have a friend who is dressing up as Kira Nerys in all but name. She's also taking the rather economical route of being "bad rear end freedom fighter Kira" instead of "jumpsuit Federation Kira" so she can thrift store some rugged fighting clothes. E6000 is your adhesive of choice. The foam will tear off before the bond breaks. Which topcoats are you trying? Almost any topcoat works if you're using acrylics, otherwise you need to match the paint type to the sealant type. If you find a satin or gloss that works, you can always lightly sand it to dull the shine. Remember to seal and prime! You can seal with layers of Elmer's Glue or very very very thin layers of PlastiDip. As for the actual structure, it looks like there are depressions in the top layer of the tricorder. I'd suggest a thin layer of the EVA on top with those depressions cut into them, and then layer what you've got over it. That way the bits like the on/off switch and the mic have actual dimension. For the three skinny ridged segments, this is an amazing method to have clean lines. Obviously, you won't have to go as deeply. Don't be afraid to add your own touches: bit more weathering, scratches or dings. Looking awesome so far. Good luck!
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Sep 24, 2014 16:27
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