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GaistHeidegger posted:That does sound very handy then. I am putting together an order on Reaper's site and I could swear their paints used to be $3/bottle--did they have a price increase? They're $3.25 apiece now. They also sell the paints as triad sets for $9.85 which seems a little bizarre when buying them separately makes for $9.75. I'll toss my vote in for the flesh-tone triads as well; they're very convenient, plus the variety of shades nicely covers a number of "uncommon" skin tones (think non-caucasian). For example, their Dusky Skin Triad was instrumental in helping me finish this Drizzt for the oath thread. 
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Oct 3, 2014 22:21
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TheBlobThing posted:This, except for some of their early kits. I know from experience that the Panzer IV kits are a pain in the rear end to assemble, and I've heard the same of the T-34 kit. Not Open Fire horrible, but enough that if I'd ever need more Panzer IV's (I won't), I'd pay extra for the Battlefront ones. Apparently you can get new one piece track sprues now to make them less hideously fiddly, although having assembled their Churchills, T-34s and Tigers I found the latter two weren't that much more tedious than the first.
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Oct 4, 2014 00:34
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I painted this Trollbloods Sorcerer to use as my Iron Kingdoms RPG character.
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Oct 4, 2014 03:35
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moths posted:So everything you've heard about the FoW Open Fire! starter box Shermans is true. http://theminikingdom.blogspot.com/2013/01/flames-of-war-open-fire-sherman-fixes.html First result in Google. I really hope you didn't finish all of them before you see this post. Edit: The new plastic BF plastics are better than PSC from what I have seen in person. Numlock fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Oct 4, 2014 |
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Oct 4, 2014 04:20
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Tonight I used super clean degreaser instead of simple green for the first time. It was way better. It took me probably 2-3 times less effort and almost all the paint sloshed off by itself.
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Oct 4, 2014 04:50
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BULBASAUR posted:Tonight I used super clean degreaser instead of simple green for the first time. It was way better. It took me probably 2-3 times less effort and almost all the paint sloshed off by itself. It has taken almost 2 years, but I will convert you all.
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Oct 4, 2014 05:04
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Numlock posted:http://theminikingdom.blogspot.com/2013/01/flames-of-war-open-fire-sherman-fixes.html Although this helps somewhat, they are still a horrible kit to put together. I got gaps in the front plates of the Fireflies, and the sides on the regular Shermans still don't fit 100%.
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Oct 4, 2014 08:18
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Ugh! I still have two to assemble, but that would have saved me so much effort... I wound up mummy-wrapping every model in rubber bands, which left some small gaps that are fixable.
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Oct 4, 2014 12:57
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I have finally cracked the whip and got my gaming group to finish the Malifaux crew we all clubbed together to buy for another member of the group whos recently been diagnosed with cancer and is having a tough time. Im really pleased with everyones efforts and the crew, despite being painted by 5 different people, all hang together well (I think me doing all the basing so it all looks the same has helped big time). Going to give it to our mate next week, so hopefully hes not too knocked off from radiotherapy to be made up!
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Oct 4, 2014 13:38
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While Im at it, heres my Malifaux Gremlin crew
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Oct 4, 2014 13:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:Pony Clamps, specific wording is important. Oh gently caress sorry yeah those are the exact ones and the tiny ones are the style I was referring to.
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Oct 4, 2014 17:37
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BULBASAUR posted:Tonight I used super clean degreaser instead of simple green for the first time. It was way better. It took me probably 2-3 times less effort and almost all the paint sloshed off by itself. You should uh come over tonight. You could borrow some dudes to play with. Bring the degreaser.
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Oct 4, 2014 17:39
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JoshTheStampede posted:I use mostly Reaper. The triad system is great, but my only complaint is that sometimes the 3 colors are a little too close together for the level of contrast I want so I wind up using a darker or lighter color as a final shade/highlight. Yeah, once you go Rosy Skin Triad, you never go back.
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Oct 4, 2014 19:01
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Serotonin posted:I have finally cracked the whip and got my gaming group to finish the Malifaux crew we all clubbed together to buy for another member of the group whos recently been diagnosed with cancer and is having a tough time. Im really pleased with everyones efforts and the crew, despite being painted by 5 different people, all hang together well (I think me doing all the basing so it all looks the same has helped big time). That's an awesome set of models and you sound like an awesome set of friends. I hope his treatment goes well. You're right, the great basing job really brings the group together nicely.
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Oct 5, 2014 01:50
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Serotonin posted:I have finally cracked the whip and got my gaming group to finish the Malifaux crew we all clubbed together to buy for another member of the group whos recently been diagnosed with cancer and is having a tough time. Im really pleased with everyones efforts and the crew, despite being painted by 5 different people, all hang together well (I think me doing all the basing so it all looks the same has helped big time). Holy crap these look sweet. I have wanted to try my hand with some Malifaux models. They look refreshing after tons of PP stuff. Speaking of which, here's a bunch of Cryx I've been working on for the past few months. Each photo links to an album with buttloads of additional views.  Denny1, the model that started my third faction.  Skarre1  Bloodwitch  Gerlack  Mecha Thralls  Denny2 !amicable fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 5, 2014 02:59
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Just finished up this tank for my Cadians. I'm not entirely happy with it, since Army Painter's Greenskin and GW's Abaddon Black are two of the worst paints I've ever had to use. Each of them took 3-4 coats just to cover the undercoat, which was already Army Painter's (actually really good) Greenskin primer. I got kind of frustrated so some parts don't look quite as good as I wish they did, but it's ready for the tabletop:    Now some of the more astute/ancient of you might think "Wait a minute! The Exterminator didn't come out until 3rd edition!" and well, you'd be right. I actually had this same realization after I'd bought the drat thing. However, I think I worked out an amicable solution:  Thanks for the ideas on the banner, guys!
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Oct 5, 2014 03:33
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I'm selling my Space Marines and a 2nd edition Blood Bowl Dwarf Team. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3669778 Stop by, take a look, buy my stuff, and become one of the cool kids.
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Oct 5, 2014 03:46
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SRM posted:Just finished up this tank for my Cadians. I'm not entirely happy with it, since Army Painter's Greenskin and GW's Abaddon Black are two of the worst paints I've ever had to use. Each of them took 3-4 coats just to cover the undercoat, which was already Army Painter's (actually really good) Greenskin primer. I got kind of frustrated so some parts don't look quite as good as I wish they did, but it's ready for the tabletop: That owns so hard. Sorry you had trouble with lovely paints, you did a bang up job regardless! Don't worry about being revisionist, my RT Sallies have a 2nd ed Vindicator and a couple of 2nd/3rd ed conversions, it's the overall look that counts 
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Oct 5, 2014 04:55
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Zark the Damned posted:That owns so hard. Sorry you had trouble with lovely paints, you did a bang up job regardless! Don't worry about being revisionist, my RT Sallies have a 2nd ed Vindicator and a couple of 2nd/3rd ed conversions, it's the overall look that counts
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Oct 5, 2014 05:59
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BULBASAUR posted:Tonight I used super clean degreaser instead of simple green for the first time. It was way better. It took me probably 2-3 times less effort and almost all the paint sloshed off by itself. Hear hear! It hurts me as an Ork player to admit that green is bad and purple is good but it's the truth. Never not use Super Clean.
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Oct 5, 2014 06:46
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BlackIronHeart posted:Hear hear! It hurts me as an Ork player to admit that green is bad and purple is good but it's the truth. Never not use Super Clean. Hey man, purple is blue and red combined, so it's lucky and goes fast. What's not orky about that?  orks don't have a separate association for purple, do they?
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Oct 5, 2014 06:54
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JerryLee posted:Hey man, purple is blue and red combined, so it's lucky and goes fast. What's not orky about that? Nobody has ever seen a purple Ork  Ork Kommandos is purple, dey's da sneakiest and ded killy 
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Oct 5, 2014 07:03
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I'm painting my Salamanders' helmet lenses yellow. It feels sacrilegious because it's not red but whatever.
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Oct 5, 2014 09:00
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I'm running a special Halloween scenario Mordheim game this halloween, I need your best Halloween minis, super cheesy is OK and I'm going with a vague fantasy theme (so no modern stuff but I'd make an exception for Doctor Frankenstein or something). I have the Reaper pumpkin golems and grave digger/assistant pack.
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Oct 5, 2014 10:17
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I'm running a special Halloween scenario Mordheim game this halloween, I need your best Halloween minis, super cheesy is OK and I'm going with a vague fantasy theme (so no modern stuff but I'd make an exception for Doctor Frankenstein or something). I have the Reaper pumpkin golems and grave digger/assistant pack.
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Oct 5, 2014 11:54
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Weathering powders: What's the best applicator for the lowest amount of money? I've tried a Tamiya weathering brush, and as far as I can tell it's just an eyeshadow applicator with a fancy name, so I bought some of those. I don't want to be using my fingers for this every time. What do you guys use for dry application of pigments?
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Oct 5, 2014 14:51
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signalnoise posted:Weathering powders: What's the best applicator for the lowest amount of money? I've tried a Tamiya weathering brush, and as far as I can tell it's just an eyeshadow applicator with a fancy name, so I bought some of those. I don't want to be using my fingers for this every time. What do you guys use for dry application of pigments? A normal synthetic brush. I bought a set for £1.
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Oct 5, 2014 15:20
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I've been using Q tips, seems to work for me
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Oct 5, 2014 15:22
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Star Man posted:I'm painting my Salamanders' helmet lenses yellow. It feels sacrilegious because it's not red but whatever. The studio scheme uses yellow, or at least it did when I was still doing 40k. I preferred and did red on mine, but yellow is cool too.
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Oct 5, 2014 15:22
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serious gaylord posted:A normal synthetic brush. I bought a set for £1. Whenever I try to use brushes, the pigment just kinda seems to rest on the brush and fall off when I go to apply it. Do you do anything special to it?
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Oct 5, 2014 15:55
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SRM posted:Awesome You are being far too hard on yourself. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that tank whatsoever.
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Oct 5, 2014 17:40
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SRM posted:Thank you! At the very least it made me reconsider how I was going to do things for my Shadowsword, which will not be using those lovely paints when I get to it. You should post more of your old Sallies in the thread! Your Whirlwind convinced me to pull the trigger and hunt down the Epicast turret. I need to dig more Sallies and get em stuck together and painted. May get a couple of things done this month (probably some =I= allies) if I'm not too burned out from other stuff. Too many projects etc. plus Spiel and helping a local games club move venue is killing my painting time this month. Star Man posted:I'm painting my Salamanders' helmet lenses yellow. It feels sacrilegious because it's not red but whatever. Heretic!  Everyone knows the true Salamanders colours are dark green with red lenses and red left arms on the apothecaries with yellow helmet markings for sergeants! (and also Dark Angels wear black and never stole the original Salamanders scheme)Nah seriously they're your mans, paint em whatever colours make you happy I did paint some other stuff today! (Xpost from Oath thread) Zark the Damned posted:Oath Complete ?!?
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Oct 5, 2014 18:59
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I finished my first Hordes model! I wanted to make up a scheme similar to a Great Horned Owl, so his face has a pattern mimicking them from head on. I like the idea of an autumn theme for the rest of the group, but I haven't quite worked out how that will go yet. 
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Oct 5, 2014 19:19
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signalnoise posted:Whenever I try to use brushes, the pigment just kinda seems to rest on the brush and fall off when I go to apply it. Do you do anything special to it? I use an old drybrush. Larger one for bigger areas and smaller one for smaller ones. Basically you want to get some pigment onto it, then mash it around on a paper towel or something, and then rub it onto the model. From what you say you're doing I think you need to use more force. Its not like paint that just flows onto the model- you have to actually rub it in. Indolent Bastard posted:It has taken almost 2 years, but I will convert you all. LingcodKilla posted:Bring the degreaser. BlackIronHeart posted:Hear hear! It hurts me as an Ork player to admit that green is bad and purple is good but it's the truth. Never not use Super Clean. Never not use Super Clean. Stuff owns. It is slightly worse for your skin than simple green, but it killed/dried out my skin about the same at the end. Considered I had to spend way less time using the stuff its a fair trade.
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Oct 5, 2014 20:50
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I used Future Floor Polish to gloss varnish some minis and I'm waiting in my 2nd coat of Liquitex Matte Varnish to try and cut the gloss. There was still a lot after my first coat. Problem with using the floor polish or using Liquitex?
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Oct 5, 2014 21:22
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This is turning into a bit of slog to finish. I am not a fan of Edgar's Primarchs at all, but he is getting there. Slowly.
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Oct 5, 2014 22:09
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If I have a budget of around 250 US, what should I get to go from having exactly nothing to a full airbrush setup? There are a billion choices and there's no info in the OP about airbrushes. I want something for general use, I'm getting the Operation Icestorm set soon and my old method of brush priming with gesso will just be way too tedious to deal with that whole box.
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Oct 6, 2014 00:50
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Swagger Dagger posted:If I have a budget of around 250 US, what should I get to go from having exactly nothing to a full airbrush setup? There are a billion choices and there's no info in the OP about airbrushes. I also would assume gesso would obliterate the details on Infinity models. Personally I would skip the trash ebay brush and get a Badger Patriot 105, an amazon compressor (I think the TC-108 is the one everyone has?) and the various hoses and connectors to hook it all up. That should be right around 200 bucks all told. Off the top of my head you'd need a Badger air hose and a badger-to-Iwata connector? Someone can correct me if I am wrong there.
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Oct 6, 2014 01:15
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Any tips on painting something to look cast iron? Like an old wood or coal burning stove?
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Oct 6, 2014 01:49
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Started painting about a month and a half ago with the Hordes Trollblood battlebox. Today I finished the first model I'm legitimately proud of. That having been said I'd love to hear advice, tips, tricks, feedback and criticism. Only way I'll get better is to have people point out where I can approve. Apologies if the pics aren't the best, I don't have a light box setup.    
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Oct 6, 2014 01:53
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