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clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard

slidebite posted:

So here is my problem,

This is my jacket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHQ2fahQXjk
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4028/i/alpinestars-t-breeze-air-flo-jacket

and supposedly the protectors are removable, but be damned if I can find how to get to them. The liner of my jacket is out so it's just a thin mesh inside, but I see no way to take that off to get at where the pads are.

How easy is it to get to these things?

There's probably a velcro strip somewhere in there on the mesh pocket.

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slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

On closer inspection you are 100 percent correct

M42
Nov 12, 2012


:siren: Hear ye, hear ye :siren:

Pulled out the boot on the offending side, it came up with the plug. Everything was very sooty




Plug threads looked alright, a few mms of the edges on the thread were dulled but that was it (lighter grey on the threads in this pic)




Boot end of the plug was bent, some threads straight up flattened (that divoted part)




Valves ok




Down the hole. Can't see the threads at any angle except straight on, so I have no clue if they're actually stripped. The little mirror on a stick I have is too wide to go down the hole, and I loving suck at using those anyway. It looked like there was a literal pile of soot at the bottom of the hole. Nothing glinting in it, though.





I yelled YOLO at the top of my lungs and threw in a new plug. It found the end of the thread without a problem, but I could only finger tighten it 1/4 of a turn before it stopped. Tightened it another turn or so with a wrench. I don't actually remember how far in the plug threads go on the bike, but they probably should go in a little farther when tightening with fingers iirc... turned the bike on, both cylinders worked, warmed it up, seemed ok. Sounds normal. I'm just not sure about the threads - I could wrangle the poo poo out of the plug with a breaker bar, but I don't want to strip everything/send aluminum bits down into the engine. I could leave it as is, but risk another blowout.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard

Slavvy posted:

Unless harley did some really crazy poo poo I'm unaware of, he's using mechanic/masochist (delete one as appropriate) shorthand for a spun/annihilated crank main bearing. If you don't catch these early enough, they score the poo poo out of the crank and render it effectively unsalvageable.

Eventually a rod will go flying and render the engine unsalvageable.

Yeah pretty much. It's common among 2007 models, but not so much on XB9. I guess their QC was bad that year or something, lots of speculation on the root cause flying around but nothing solid.

karms
Jan 22, 2006

by Nyc_Tattoo
Yam Slacker

M42 posted:

I'm just not sure about the threads - I could wrangle the poo poo out of the plug with a breaker bar, but I don't want to strip everything/send aluminum bits down into the engine. I could leave it as is, but risk another blowout.

If you've tightened it good and it pops out again, at least you now know what your options are. Either jbweld, thread inserts or a new head. :) Godspeed.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

KARMA! posted:

If you've tightened it good and it pops out again, at least you now know what your options are. Either jbweld, thread inserts or a new head. :) Godspeed.

hot sauce
Jan 13, 2005

Grimey Drawer
Whelp, glad to hear the engine isn't dead :)

Baller Witness Bro
Nov 16, 2006

Hey FedEx, how dare you deliver something before your "delivered by" time.
Dang, quick turnaround. I would've sat on the internet until the weekend researching horror stories of every possible failure before I pulled the cover and checked the plug on the weekend :confuoot:

M42
Nov 12, 2012


I gotta get it inspected and winterize it soonish. Also the weather here is finally nice enough to ride in, AND I finally found some great roads, so there's that too. Some people have suggested that my threads are actually caked in soot and poo poo. I'm gonna pull the other plug and see how many turns it's supposed to go through before seating, soak the hosed side's plug in carb cleaner, and then see if that clears it. If not, grease the threads and hope that catches any metal shavings :unsmigghh:

Snowdens Secret
Dec 29, 2008
Someone got you a obnoxiously racist av.

clutchpuck posted:

Yeah pretty much. It's common among 2007 models, but not so much on XB9. I guess their QC was bad that year or something, lots of speculation on the root cause flying around but nothing solid.

Sounds like way too much solid was flying around, honestly

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

M42 posted:

I yelled YOLO at the top of my lungs and threw in a new plug. It found the end of the thread without a problem, but I could only finger tighten it 1/4 of a turn before it stopped. Tightened it another turn or so with a wrench. I don't actually remember how far in the plug threads go on the bike, but they probably should go in a little farther when tightening with fingers iirc... turned the bike on, both cylinders worked, warmed it up, seemed ok. Sounds normal. I'm just not sure about the threads - I could wrangle the poo poo out of the plug with a breaker bar, but I don't want to strip everything/send aluminum bits down into the engine. I could leave it as is, but risk another blowout.

It's probably best to pull the fresh plug and see if the threads have deformed at all. If they have, you should run a tap down there, if they haven't, try and clean out the threads and give it another go.

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
PSA
Don't grease threads use anti-seize or loctite depending on the application.

M42
Nov 12, 2012


The grease is for catching any errant metal shavings that may be there and taking them out, not for just putting the plug in and leaving it.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

M42 posted:

I could only finger tighten it 1/4 of a turn before it stopped.
That may or may not be a problem

quote:

Tightened it another turn or so with a wrench.
That's a problem, it needs to go in a lot further than that, even if it resists along the way. Probably like 8-10 full turns? Not sure.

Elviscat
Jan 1, 2008

Well don't you know I'm caught in a trap?

Try working the plug back and forth as you turn it in, i.e. go 1/2 a turn. back the plug out a 1/4 turn, try and go another 1/2 etc. This will help clear shavings/soot/gunk form the threads, without the risk of stripping them.

M42
Nov 12, 2012


I didn't mean to imply that I couldn't turn it any more than 1 turn with the wrench. I was worried about messing things up further so I backed off :ohdear: it turned smoothly, though. I'll pull out the other one and see exactly how many turns it takes to seat, then do it for the hosed side. Unless it just straight up starts spinning freely or doesn't go any further.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

It should go in smoothly and 90% should be doable by finger. Your idea of comparing it the other side is a good one, but it'll take at least 8+ full turns. Use your torque wrench if you can.

Glad to hear it seems like a decent chance you'll be getting off lucky. :)

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

Elviscat posted:

Try working the plug back and forth as you turn it in, i.e. go 1/2 a turn. back the plug out a 1/4 turn, try and go another 1/2 etc. This will help clear shavings/soot/gunk form the threads, without the risk of stripping them.

There's a tool designed for chasing spark plug threads called a thread chaser (creative) that you can get at Autozone. It works better than just trying to force the threads into shape with the plug.

Alternately, a tap will work well, but remember it's aluminum and be sure to get the thing in straight and don't overdo it. Easy to ruin soft threads by chasing them with a razor sharp new tap.

Try to vacuum out the cylinder afterwards if you can (tape a garden hose onto a vacuum cleaner hose or something).

Marv Hushman
Jun 2, 2010

Freedom Ain't Free
:911::911::911:

Sagebrush posted:

chasing threads called a chaser

The Mitch Hedberg Kitchen Appliance Naming Institute strikes again.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yesterday I watched the second dirty harry movie.

I got the impression they used the triumphs in the final scene because they were light and nimble enough for stunts inside an aircraft carrier, and for the rest of the movie a motoguzzi because a harley chasing a car down a twisty road would've been lol. Did the SFPD ever use guzzis or triumphs?

Marv Hushman
Jun 2, 2010

Freedom Ain't Free
:911::911::911:

Slavvy posted:

Did the SFPD ever use guzzis or triumphs?

The Eldorado 850 was big with Cali LE in general, but I don't know about SF in particular. Fave Guzzi scene: opening of Repo Man, and I think the bike belonged to Alex Cox.

http://youtu.be/HZjZbJuhPAo

Marv Hushman fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Oct 10, 2014

Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

So I'm in Atlanta with an old 83 Honda CM250C that was given to me that's currently not running. It's also not registered, and I have a un-notarized title from the previous owner who I've never even met and have no idea how to contact anyway. All the costs of registering and repairing it are way too high to justify for such an old bike and so I'd like to get rid of it. I've called a few junk yards I've found online and they all tell me they don't take motorcycles and to try a "salvage yard" but I've had no luck with that either. Anyone know a place in the area that'll take the bike, especially if I just have an old Pennsylvania title to go with it?

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
$50 parts bike on craigslist.

Snowdens Secret
Dec 29, 2008
Someone got you a obnoxiously racist av.
Dumpster behind a grocery store, late at night

500excf type r
Mar 7, 2013

I'm as annoying as the high-pitched whine of my motorcycle, desperately compensating for the lack of substance in my life.
I think I have some room in my garage for another pile of useless poo poo bike

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Where are the Ducati people buying parts for reasonable prices? My local dealer wants $60 for TWO FORK SEALS. Wut.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?
I don't think reasonable ducati parts exist. You either pay the tax or get lovely ebay parts that break like Hnasty's pegs.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Fork seals seems like something you could easily get as a generic aftermarket part that doesn't suck balls; I don't see how ducati would be special in this specific instance.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




BlackMK4 posted:

Where are the Ducati people buying parts for reasonable prices? My local dealer wants $60 for TWO FORK SEALS. Wut.

Lol someone didn't think this Ducati thing through.


For real though just buy the motion pro equivalent, instead of popping for the ohlins seals

Snowdens Secret
Dec 29, 2008
Someone got you a obnoxiously racist av.

BlackMK4 posted:

Ducati people buying parts for reasonable prices

Hahahaha

This, folks, is why the Scrambler won't 'save motorcycling'.

The same forks are used on other bikes (Aprilias at least) so you can probably get the parts cheaper if you find those numbers and then search for them on eBay (i.e. the Aprilia parts desk)

Bugdrvr
Mar 7, 2003

Slavvy posted:

Fork seals seems like something you could easily get as a generic aftermarket part that doesn't suck balls; I don't see how ducati would be special in this specific instance.

I've never had great luck using cheap fork seals. I've tried cheapo Chinese as well as All Balls and both leaked really quickly. I would have no problem going aftermarket as long as I was getting an OEM however.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

Snowdens Secret posted:

The same forks are used on other bikes (Aprilias at least) so you can probably get the parts cheaper
Sometimes you can't even get them. I wanted to rebuild the brembo calipers on my ST2, it's a caliper used on a whole shitload of different bikes. Ducati does not sell rebuild kits for those calipers. But KTM does. Brembo makes them for KTM but Ducati said no we don't want those we want to sell people $300 calipers when the pistons are a little scratched.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Bugdrvr posted:

I've never had great luck using cheap fork seals. I've tried cheapo Chinese as well as All Balls and both leaked really quickly. I would have no problem going aftermarket as long as I was getting an OEM however.

This really makes no sense to me because fork seals are identical to shaft seals like you would find on a car at the crankshaft or camshaft or gearbox input/output shafts.

Like, you don't even need bike specific fork seals. You can just go to a bearing shop with your ID and OD measurements, or the numbers printed on the seal, and they'll give you an identical seal.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Lol someone didn't think this Ducati thing through.


For real though just buy the motion pro equivalent, instead of popping for the ohlins seals

It's got Showa forks, not Ohlins. I've never had good luck with aftermarket seals so I stick to OEM ones now.

Slavvy posted:

Fork seals seems like something you could easily get as a generic aftermarket part that doesn't suck balls; I don't see how ducati would be special in this specific instance.

^

nsaP posted:

I don't think reasonable ducati parts exist. You either pay the tax or get lovely ebay parts that break like Hnasty's pegs.

Snowdens Secret posted:

Hahahaha

This, folks, is why the Scrambler won't 'save motorcycling'.

The same forks are used on other bikes (Aprilias at least) so you can probably get the parts cheaper if you find those numbers and then search for them on eBay (i.e. the Aprilia parts desk)

Price isn't the issue, it's the markup at a dealer level. :v: I paid $45 for NOK OEM seals for my GSXR750 forks. 33% more for the Ducati dealership.

That said, I found what I was looking for. BikeMaster website, looked up the replacement fork seal PN (42-9109), googled that and figured out that the 06-12 ZX10R, 04-11 VStrom, and 09-13 GSXR1000 share the same fork seals as the Showa 749 forks (43x54x11). I picked up a set off eBay for $15.

I just need to find a reasonable online dealer for Ducati parts.

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Oct 12, 2014

ElMaligno
Dec 31, 2004

Be Gay!
Do Crime!

nsaP posted:

I don't think reasonable ducati parts exist. You either pay the tax or get lovely ebay parts that break like Hnasty's Balls.

Dont act like you dont like the Ballbusta :colbert: ballbusta

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
I was just going to say you can cross reference both showa and ohlins to other brands. Have you tried cleaning your seals first? Always worth a try. With the ohlins forks you really want to use non-ohlins brand seals as they are a single wiper design and cost $60. I'm sure the single wiper has slightly less sticktion but it's not worth messing with a seal that fails faster.

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

BlackMK4 posted:

I just need to find a reasonable online dealer for Ducati parts.
I think I've bought from Pro Italia. They have nice parts diagrams etc. There are no places with reasonable prices, though, you're paying for it wherever you go.

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug
I have a weird fetish for automotive and motorcycle tools (DON'T KINKSHAME ME/not talking about Z3n) and saw that there are some motorcycle paddock stands out on the market that lift your bike using two sleeves inserted into the frame, usually through a hardpoint involving the engine mounts, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OqDN4t1FzQ

To be honest they look absolutely cool as hell, and the one American manufacturer is offering them for around the $350 mark. As a set of good front and rear stands runs around $150 each for the fronts and rears (completely basing this on the Pit-Bull stands which apparently come from the Gods of Mt. Olympus, as I have never seen a complaint about them) I figured that for an extra $40-50, the ability to move your bike around easily in the garage would be a nice advantage. However, the whole "lifting by the chassis" thing scares the everliving poo poo out of me, and despite the fact that I see them tossing bikes around in videos with nary the bike shaking, I still have this feeling it's "bad" for the chassis and stressing the wrong points. My logic is that the triples and the rear shock mount are built to deal with the weight of the bike sitting on them, but the frame is meant for different stresses involving the engine and chassis twisting around, not necessarily for doing a dead lift of the bike.

Does anyone have any experience with these things or can you point out of it is a "lovely idea" or not? I was thinking that when it comes time for the next bike I will be snagging one of these instead of the traditional lifts, but the more I thought about them the more I start to question the engineering behind it.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
It's fine.

Now, you get to wonder if I told you that because you made a joke at my expense, or if it's because it's legitimately fine.

Have a good time!

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funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug

Z3n posted:

It's fine.

Now, you get to wonder if I told you that because you made a joke at my expense, or if it's because it's legitimately fine.

Have a good time!

Fast forward to a year from now with me and a motorcycle with a twisted frame, muttering under my breath about "guessing wrong".

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