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Fabulousity posted:I was pretty disappointed in the fuel economy I was seeing in mine using 87. On the last tank I filled up on 91 octane and it idles much more smoothly and fuel economy is greatly improved too. Like improved to the point where the extra mileage probably pays for the increased gas cost. I got a 2014 3GT, and I'm getting average 35-36mpg between fill ups on 87. Really loving the mileage, the Navigation iDrive wannabe system desperately needs some improvements.
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Oct 18, 2014 19:59
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Koirhor posted:I got a 2014 3GT, and I'm getting average 35-36mpg between fill ups on 87. Really loving the mileage, the Navigation iDrive wannabe system desperately needs some improvements. Are you on the newest version? Because I'm actually pretty happy with mine. It had a few weird bugs at first but seems solid now.
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Oct 18, 2014 20:15
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Are you on the newest version? Because I'm actually pretty happy with mine. It had a few weird bugs at first but seems solid now. I don't think so I think it's version 28 or something. Was going to ask about an update when I take it in for it's first oil change.
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Oct 19, 2014 03:06
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Hey guys, need some help diagnosing a really weird situation on my wife's 2005 Mazda 6i automatic. 120k miles. It just started yesterday to 'hang' on to throttle like the cruise control was set but my foot wasn't on the peddle. It fluctuates within a range of ~500-750rpm. I turned the car off and restarted and it seemed to stop. Just barely we were on the freeway and it started surging within a range of 500 rpms at any speeds leading to a very jerky ride. As we exited the freeway it maintained rpms >3500 rpms leading to me popping into neutral to get the car to stop. My initial thought is throttle position sensor, but no codes are being thrown. What else should I consider? I'd rather not make this week a new car buying week. Quoting myself to say I think I've figured this out. As I drove the car on a 55 mph divided highway the other night when it was ~50*F I noticed the temp gauge drop down to the 1/4 way point rather than 1/2 and sit. Determined it was a stuck open thermostat that was holding the engine rpm high to get up to temps. When at high speeds the radiator was too efficient at cooling thus the bouncy throttle. I guess it just took cooler outside air temps to really display what was going on. Replacing the thermostat is a total bastard btw. After replacing two alternators on this thing I was a bit annoyed that I needed to pull the fender liner/serp belt again.
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Oct 19, 2014 04:33
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Ugh, my 2010 Mazdaspeed3 has just over 55 000 kms on it, got out of it the other day and smoke was coming out of the driver's side rear wheel well. It wasn't driving funny and I couldn't see anything wrong with the wheel/tire on. I drove it home and it seemed fine. Took it into the dealership and they tell me the brake cylinder is hosed and it had the calliper partially seized on. They say my extended warranty (that I never wanted, but these guys lied to me about needing to get the car loan in the first place) wasn't going to cover the cost of the rotor or pad. So my deductible is $200, plus $260 to replace the brake and rotor that only had 7000 kms on them. Great. They've had my car since Tuesday, they finally start working on it Friday and find out the brake line needs to be replaced as well. Also not covered by the extended warranty I never wanted, so add another $550. Just loving great, the extended warranty I was foolishly conned into buying was $2500 and this repair is still going to cost me $1000. At least the heated seat they're fixing shouldn't add anything to that number...grumble. I complained to the dealership GM that they conned me into buying this useless warranty that I did not want, and they said it was refundable if I didn't use it (also a lie) - supposed to meet him on Monday but I doubt it will be that great.
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Oct 19, 2014 22:15
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Shoota_McG posted:They say my extended warranty (that I never wanted, but these guys lied to me about needing to get the car loan in the first place). Jesus Christ this sounds like the shadiest dealership ever. They seriously told you they couldn't get you financing on the vehicle without buying their extended warranty?
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Oct 19, 2014 23:22
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Tacier posted:Jesus Christ this sounds like the shadiest dealership ever. They seriously told you they couldn't get you financing on the vehicle without buying their extended warranty? Yes, that is correct. Since this was nearly five years ago now, I don't know if there will be anything that they will do for me.
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Oct 19, 2014 23:32
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My family is thinking of getting a new 2015 Mazda 3 hatchback GT to replace the 1997 Camry that was driven into the ground. Has Mazda improved on their rusting issues? We really like the car, the only thing that's stopping us is bad rusting Mazda had. We live in Toronto with salty roads in the winter, which certainly doesn't help.
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Oct 20, 2014 01:43
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Tacier posted:Jesus Christ this sounds like the shadiest dealership ever. They seriously told you they couldn't get you financing on the vehicle without buying their extended warranty? I had a similar experience with the first loan I got. I have since learned to never ever EVER trust a word out of the salesman.
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Oct 20, 2014 03:06
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I've been having some high-speed wobble issues on my 09 mazda3, took it in for an alignment at the dealer Apparently my rear suspension bushings are trashed and need replacing. Got a quote for 400 bucks. Sound about right? That's above and beyond my DIY levels.
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Oct 20, 2014 15:43
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Shoota_McG posted:Ugh, my 2010 Mazdaspeed3 has just over 55 000 kms on it, got out of it the other day and smoke was coming out of the driver's side rear wheel well. It wasn't driving funny and I couldn't see anything wrong with the wheel/tire on. If the extended warranty doesn't apply what is the deductible you're paying?
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Oct 21, 2014 06:10
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CharlesM posted:If the extended warranty doesn't apply what is the deductible you're paying? It covers the brake cylinder but not the pad, rotor or line.
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Oct 21, 2014 20:10
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If you complain enough you could get the pads and rotors replaced for free under consequential damage, and maybe the line too
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Oct 22, 2014 22:22
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Can anyone ID what these wheels came off of: For an '03 6, lug pattern is right (5x114.3) but I'm not sure on offset... For sale on Craigslist for $130 (tires are done but the wheels appear to be in decent shape.) My wife's 6 is rolling around on the stock 18s off of my brother's MS3 and will need new tires next spring when we cycle the snow tires that are going to go on in the next month or so back off again, and the tires I'm looking at buying are about $30 cheaper each in 205/50 16 than 215/40 18. Smaller tires + these wheels would cost about as much as bigger tires for the wheels I have now and I'd get better fuel economy to boot... Geoj fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Oct 24, 2014 |
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Oct 24, 2014 03:51
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I want to say late Protege. Maybe an early 3.
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Oct 24, 2014 04:01
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Those look like ones from a Protege5 / maybe Protege ES.
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Oct 24, 2014 04:02
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Yeah, you guys nailed it - late model Protege. Offset is +50, factory offset on the stock 6 16x6.5 wheel is +55. Any reason why I shouldn't do this?
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Oct 24, 2014 04:14
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Geoj posted:Yeah, you guys nailed it - late model Protege. Offset is +50, factory offset on the stock 6 16x6.5 wheel is +55. Nope. They're good looking wheels, MZR cars IIRC are pretty forgiving with wheel fitment (and 5mm is fuckall even if they were fussy) and they're sitting at a pretty drat good price assuming they're not bent. edit: and even if a couple are bent, gently caress it they're winters (if I read your post right?) put them on the back. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 03:13
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No, if I get them they'll get all seasons. We have a set of steel wheels with winter tires already mounted. Not sure if the seller still has them, made multiple attempts to contact him today and haven't heard anything back so...
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Oct 25, 2014 04:10
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A friend sold me an old, dirty and mostly good shape set of 5 spoke 17" wheels from an 06 Mazda3GT with a half decent set of all seasons on it. After selling the tires I think I paid $70 for the rims. Just put some new Yokohama Iceguards on them today. Much nicer than the 16" steelies that they replace (running Continental ExtremeWinterContacts). 
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Oct 28, 2014 22:20
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Shoota_McG posted:A friend sold me an old, dirty and mostly good shape set of 5 spoke 17" wheels from an 06 Mazda3GT with a half decent set of all seasons on it. After selling the tires I think I paid $70 for the rims. Just put some new Yokohama Iceguards on them today. Much nicer than the 16" steelies that they replace (running Continental ExtremeWinterContacts). That looks great
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Oct 29, 2014 00:09
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Thanks, pretty happy with how it worked out.
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Oct 29, 2014 01:38
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I've noticed recently, that my idle seems sort of rough, almost like it's missing. Did a quick google search and found this guy's video, and at about 1:30 he records the rough idle on his car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4MBPXFNSAc&t=91s He says the issue turned out to be a bad EGR valve, and I remember someone like IOwnCalculus saying that he had issues with the EGR in his MS3. I have about 47k miles on mine, and wind up doing a lot of short trips. Is this likely the issue with mine? I've been worried about high carbon buildup on the intake valves as well. And I've been thinking it wouldn't hurt to check the spark plugs as well. I've got some other maintenance I probably should do, including flushing the coolant and the brake fluid.
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Nov 8, 2014 20:34
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It's not hard to get to the egr, might as well check. Have you ever changed your plugs before? If it's been over 15k, I'd replace them. Slightly related, I'm about to replaced my cabin air filter on my gen 1.. wish me luck.
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Nov 8, 2014 20:39
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Google Butt posted:It's not hard to get to the egr, might as well check. Have you ever changed your plugs before? If it's been over 15k, I'd replace them. I really haven't touched anything since purchasing it (2009 MS3) used at about 12k miles-- other than regular oil changes, changing the gear oil at ~35k miles, and the cabin air filter around the time of purchasing it. Are any particular spark plugs and gap recommended for a completely stock engine? The cabin air filter change on the gen 1 isn't too bad, but being a contortionist would probably make it easier. Just go slow and don't forget to plug everything back into the fuse block before you button it all up.
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Nov 8, 2014 20:44
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MetaJew posted:I really haven't touched anything since purchasing it (2009 MS3) used at about 12k miles-- other than regular oil changes, changing the gear oil at ~35k miles, and the cabin air filter around the time of purchasing it. I'd recommend picking up a set of NGK 3787 and a good feeler gauge.
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Nov 8, 2014 20:49
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MetaJew posted:He says the issue turned out to be a bad EGR valve, and I remember someone like IOwnCalculus saying that he had issues with the EGR in his MS3. I have about 47k miles on mine, and wind up doing a lot of short trips. Is this likely the issue with mine? I don't think I ever had a rough idle, but I know it set codes. Hang on while I search my own posts in the thread  Edit: Nope, never had a rough idle. Always just P0401 codes. And yeah... my intake valves were all kinds of hell after 110k+ miles. If I still had a DI car I'd just budget to pay someone else to deal with it, it was a headache when I tried (though I suspect part of that is my compressor not being up to the task). For some newish content, I drove my sister-in-law's 2014 Mazda3 Skyactiv 2.0 with a stick again a few times this past week. Even though it's got no real horsepower, it's such a fun little car. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 21:26
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I have the stock 18" rims with all seasons on my 2014 Mazda right now. I think I'm going to need a set of winter wheels. I don't know if I should buy another set of 18" rims and get winter tires for them or if I should follow my dealership's advice and get 16" steelies. Any advice?
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Nov 8, 2014 23:05
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Kraftwerk posted:I have the stock 18" rims with all seasons on my 2014 Mazda right now. I think I'm going to need a set of winter wheels. I don't know if I should buy another set of 18" rims and get winter tires for them or if I should follow my dealership's advice and get 16" steelies. 16" steelies. Lower rim diameter generally allows you to run a narrower tire (more contact pressure=more grip on snow/ice), they're invariably cheaper and it's a lot easier to watch a cheap steel wheel get ruined by road salt (and/or any curbs you might happen to slide into by accident) than a pricey aluminum. Also, don't get said steelies at the dealership, they'll likely rape you. If you're paying more than about $50/wheel for steelies you're getting ripped off.
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Nov 8, 2014 23:32
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Tire rack has steel wheels for $60 each but you can get them for less from a junkyard.
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Nov 8, 2014 23:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:I don't think I ever had a rough idle, but I know it set codes. Hang on while I search my own posts in the thread Ah, is P0401 the code for the EGR or am I imagining things? If I can find a shop in Austin that will do the intake valve cleaning for a reasonable price I would consider paying someone to do it. But, anecdotally, I think VW wanted my brother to pay $700 for them to do it on his 2011 GTI-- granted his car actually requires you to pull and reinstall the fuel injectors in the process so maybe there's something more to the price. I think I will inspect the spark plugs the next chance I get, and possibly see about inspecting/cleaning out the EGR and EGR tube. In other news, I washed my car for the first time in several months and followed it up with clay bar and sealant. I also discovered another 5 chips down to the primer.  
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Nov 10, 2014 06:08
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Kraftwerk posted:I have the stock 18" rims with all seasons on my 2014 Mazda right now. I think I'm going to need a set of winter wheels. I don't know if I should buy another set of 18" rims and get winter tires for them or if I should follow my dealership's advice and get 16" steelies. 16" tires are cheaper than 18" tires and they'll figure out the correct size so that the diameter is the same so your speedo won't be off. My MS3 has the stock 18s for summer tires and I was running 16" steelies for winter. Just replaced those with 17" wheels off an 06 Mazda3 GT. I wouldn't spend extra money on 18s if they're just steelies.
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Nov 10, 2014 08:29
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MetaJew posted:Ah, is P0401 the code for the EGR or am I imagining things? Is Seafoam enough to clean the valves, or do you really have to pull it apart and get them cleaned? I'm coming up on 15k miles on my MS3 and was thinking about foaming it for the hell of it to see what happens.
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Nov 13, 2014 17:14
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Petekill posted:Is Seafoam enough to clean the valves, or do you really have to pull it apart and get them cleaned? I'm coming up on 15k miles on my MS3 and was thinking about foaming it for the hell of it to see what happens. I'll let someone more knowledgeable comment on this, but my understanding is that pulling seafoam through a vacuum line is not an effective method of cleaning the intake valves.
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Nov 13, 2014 17:25
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Petekill posted:Is Seafoam enough to clean the valves, or do you really have to pull it apart and get them cleaned? I'm coming up on 15k miles on my MS3 and was thinking about foaming it for the hell of it to see what happens. Nope, it's going to need media blasting.
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Nov 13, 2014 20:33
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Out of curiosity, has anyone ever run a decibel meter on their 3 hatch going at highway speeds? I ran a super basic one on my phone just now and it was over 90 dB (50 was the baseline just sitting). I will do a more extensive test tomorrow, but the noise is worrying me a bit. I will post a short clip if I can find an easy host - someone that heard it thought it might be something with the rear diff - it's a swelling/receding roar that cycles every few seconds (many rotations of each tire). Edit: http://tinypic.com/r/2nqbls6/8 REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 01:11
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Out of curiosity, has anyone ever run a decibel meter on their 3 hatch going at highway speeds? I ran a super basic one on my phone just now and it was over 90 dB (50 was the baseline just sitting). I will do a more extensive test tomorrow, but the noise is worrying me a bit. I will post a short clip if I can find an easy host - someone that heard it thought it might be something with the rear diff - it's a swelling/receding roar that cycles every few seconds (many rotations of each tire). For what it's worth, I can assure you that your 3 hatch is having no issues with the rear diff.
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Nov 14, 2014 13:05
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Viper915 posted:For what it's worth, I can assure you that your 3 hatch is having no issues with the rear diff. sounds like a wheel bearing in its initial stages of dying. Can't be rear diff since there isn't one in any mazda 3!
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Nov 14, 2014 15:50
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crazzy posted:sounds like a wheel bearing in its initial stages of dying. Well, except for that guy who went nuts and did an AWD conversion. But yeah, I'd put money on a wheel bearing. The rears are pretty easy as long as you have a big-rear end Torx bit and a torque wrench - they're just sealed units that attach with four bolts. The fronts are a pain in the dick.
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Nov 14, 2014 16:21
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Well I made no promises that I wasn't a dumbass. Edit: apparently I'm past warranty, poo poo. I appreciate the help guys, but I don't have a safe, level place to work, so this may have to go to a shop. Hopefully not an arm and a leg. REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 16:32
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