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Depends on if you got a dealer that refused to budge on markups or not, but it ran around 42k MSRP for the non LS model with the Recaro seats and Torsen diff.
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Oct 15, 2014 22:11
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Expensive but not nearly as bad as a GT500 then.
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Oct 15, 2014 22:14
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ilkhan posted:How much extra did the 302 cost over a GT? I wasn't watching during the '11-'14 days. The 2012 was $40,999 sticker. The base GT with a performance pack was around $33k.
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Oct 15, 2014 22:20
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Yea, and when the Boss came out the GT500 of the same gen didn't even have all the suspension upgrades it did. I think they stepped up on that part and started doing the full suspension pack when the 662hp GT500 hit though. I think the most common thing the Boss got panned for was the stock brakes.
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Oct 15, 2014 22:21
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Gwaihir posted:I think the most common thing the Boss got panned for was the stock brakes. This is what I heard from my friend who does constant trackdays in a vintage 911 with a Porsche club. Several of his Porsche club friends daily drove Boss 302, but complained they were terrible on the track compared to a 991, and that they overheated brakes.
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Oct 15, 2014 23:06
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Would I be lowballing this guy too hard if I offered him two thousand for this older converible? This is assuming the only thing wrong with it is the soft top like he says in the description. http://shreveport.craigslist.org/cto/4699880216.html
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Oct 16, 2014 00:46
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If you offer $2k, he might agree to it, or he might ask to meet at the middle like $2400. usually people place add likes this online and they ask for more than they really want expecting someone to try and low ball him. It makes it look like he is giving you a really good deal. also mileage has a big part of it? how many miles are on the engine and the rest of the car? why is he getting rid of it? why was the engine rebuilt? what was wrong with it to need a rebuild?
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Oct 16, 2014 01:39
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Yeah Boss 302 usually ran low-mid 40s, and even the 302 Laguna Seca was only about $55k, so bumping up on the low end of GT500 pricing (for 2012, anyway, which I think was the last year of the 302LS).
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Oct 16, 2014 01:43
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kalvick posted:If you offer $2k, he might agree to it, or he might ask to meet at the middle like $2400. I think 2 to 3 is fair. I'd pay it. I wouldn't worry about the rebuild, you can sort that out. Its a 20 year old car that's been rode hard and put to bed wet. The only thing I don't like about the 93 is that the 93 doesn't have the forged internals. They have the hypereutectic pistons which frankly sucked. Before making an offer, research replacing the seatbelts. Some can be really hard to find to make the car safe. You can bet the heater core had been yanked, the ac/heater won't work, 2nd gear synchro is probably shot, the back windows won't roll down, and the vert motor is probably leaking oil. And probably a big rear end tach has been drilled into the dash. The torque boxes will be crushed. From the pictures, however, there's a lot to like about it. The body looks straight, the doors look like they shimmed them properly, and the paint looks decent (aside from the hood, but that's a personal thing). But it's a good price on a fox body vert. Around here, in worse shape, they go for more. Tide fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Oct 16, 2014 |
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Oct 16, 2014 03:49
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Tide posted:I think 2 to 3 is fair. I'd pay it. I wouldn't worry about the rebuild, you can sort that out. Its a 20 year old car that's been rode hard and put to bed wet. The only thing I don't like about the 93 is that the 93 doesn't have the forged internals. They have the hypereutectic pistons which frankly sucked. I hadn't even thought about it having rear windows, and now that you mention it that would look weird as hell if those little glass slivers were still sticking up with the big windows down. By "vert motor" do you mean the engine itself? Or some kind of electrical motor elsewhere in the car? Googling it just brings up a bunch of different parts.
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Oct 16, 2014 04:13
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SperginMcBadposter posted:I hadn't even thought about it having rear windows, and now that you mention it that would look weird as hell if those little glass slivers were still sticking up with the big windows down. By "vert motor" do you mean the engine itself? Or some kind of electrical motor elsewhere in the car? Googling it just brings up a bunch of different parts. A tell tale sign the rear windows won't go down is photos with the top down but all the windows up. It's extremely rare to see them working AND staying on track. It's a side effect of it being a convertible (vert) version of a 1979 Ford Fairmont (seriously) having the structural integrity of balsa wood even when new, never mind 20 years after it was manufactured. If there's a bright side? It looks like they have them aligned quite nicely and you will have a better than average seal. Not a hard fix but a fix nonetheless. The "vert motor" (sorry) is the hydraulic motor that raises and lowers the convertible top. They usually barf their guts out with regularity. A semi difficult fix if you mind putting the top up or down manually. A low priority item. It would honestly be one of the last things I ever worried about fixing considering there would be more pressing things to worry about first: Attending to the seatbelts Upgrading the brakes (which begets new wheels) Going over the suspension/torque boxes/steering Stiffening the frame with sub frame connectors The great thing about a foxbody Mustang is that they are easy to work on. Parts are generally plentiful and mostly cheap. They can perform well with not a lot of money invested. You can actually get back a decent percentage of anything you put in them (when talking about foxbodies anyway). HUGE aftermarket following and peer assistance (forums). Go for it. If you get it below 3k, you could probably advertise in Houston and sell it for twice that without breaking a sweat.
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Oct 16, 2014 04:39
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Tide posted:The great thing about a foxbody Mustang is that they are easy to work on. Parts are generally plentiful and mostly cheap. They can perform well with not a lot of money invested. You can actually get back a decent percentage of anything you put in them (when talking about foxbodies anyway). HUGE aftermarket following and peer assistance (forums). That sounds really good. One of the main reasons I've been looking for a second car is so I can learn to work on them. Maybe the craigslist nightmare is nearly over. 
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Oct 16, 2014 04:59
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Mustangs on Craigslist are a nightmare. He'll, Craigslist in general is a nightmare. All the ads are pretty much the same. Frankly, if you seriously want to learn to wrench? Buy a four banger foxbody and do a V8 engine, transmission, and suspension conversion. Pretty much any V8 you're going to find will need all the work a conversion will require. And you can pick up a pretty clean 4 cylinder for next to nothing
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Oct 16, 2014 05:06
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Tide posted:Mustangs on Craigslist are a nightmare. He'll, Craigslist in general is a nightmare. Don't do this. Not every V8 Foxbody mustang out there is going to be a ragged on pile of poo poo. The one you are looking at is in the ~$2500 range, so you can't be too picky about it. If it runs and drives straight, and isn't a wreck, its 100% worth the even the asking price. These are 20+ year old cars on a late 70's platform, they were never fantastic cars to begin with.
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Oct 16, 2014 17:46
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I just got off the phone with the guy and he told me it was sold already but the ad was never taken down. So loving tired of this.
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Oct 16, 2014 17:47
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SperginMcBadposter posted:I just got off the phone with the guy and he told me it was sold already but the ad was never taken down. So loving tired of this. Sorry dude. That doesn't surprise me one bit as it was a pretty cheap price. Around here (Milwaukee area), that would have been gone in less than an hour.
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Oct 16, 2014 17:49
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Auron posted:Don't do this. Every V8 foxbody Mustang that I've ever seen that wasn't a ragged on pile of poo poo is $8-$10K. Coupes? Add a couple thousand. Even four bangers are going up in price because a) people convert them to V8 or b) they strip them out and make 1/8 or 1/4 mile dragsters out of them. But my point is, unless you strike craigslist gold, 99 percent of the foxbodies in the 2-3K range are going to be a piece of poo poo that is going to need an engine rebuild, a major suspension refresh, and a trans rebuild. Unless you're willing to pay the 'relatively unmolested 88-93 Mustang GT/LX 5.0 tax' upfront, the better option is to start from scratch on a body and frame that spent it's life being pushed around by an earth shaking 88 hp. You'll spend a little more money in the end but have a better car for it. But that's assuming you have access to the tools and know how to do it. But you'll still need those tools and know how even with a V8 as your starting platform. Personally? I'm over the want to have a foxbody in my garage. I love them, but not enough to own one anymore. I'd rather take the money I would spend on a good condition V8 (or converting a 4 to an 8) and use it to put a fat down payment on a new or newer model.
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Oct 16, 2014 18:03
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Tide posted:Every V8 foxbody Mustang that I've ever seen that wasn't a ragged on pile of poo poo is $8-$10K. Coupes? Add a couple thousand. Even four bangers are going up in price because a) people convert them to V8 or b) they strip them out and make 1/8 or 1/4 mile dragsters out of them. Yeah if you're looking for a mint condition, decently modded foxbody you're going to pay a premium, no doubt. However, I've seen (and know people who have bought) $4-5k nearly stock foxbodies that are in good condition overall. I'm pretty much over Foxbodies as well, my last Mustang was a 96 Cobra which I sold earlier this spring. I owned nothing but foxbodies before. Even an old SN95 seems lightyears ahead when it comes to the interior and styling. I say pretty much over, because if I ran into a nice H/C/I LX coupe or Hatch for $5,000, I might be tempted. They still make terrific drag strip cars.
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Oct 16, 2014 18:11
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We got a 5.0 SN95 for 650 dollars off craigslist. It was deep discounted because it needed some work, but if you are looking at a 30 year old fox those things will need work too. The driveline is perfect and the gearbox that came with it was better than our old one. Just like the first gen imprezas, fox bodies are really an over rated platform BECAUSE OLD BECAUSE LIGHT. You really need to ask your self what the purpose of buying the car is. If you want a nice muscle car and to look really sweet like that dude who posts the blacked out fox that I droll over. Then yeah you want a fox with a v8 and just do standard maintenance on it. If you want to go as fast as possible for as cheap as possible, there are much cheaper options than a fox, which is on the upswing in price these days. In theory a vert should be cheaper because the race guys don't want those, so you immediately knock off a huge market segment. Getting a v6 or a 4 banger cuts out another portion of people who are too pussy to actually do a driveline swap.
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Oct 16, 2014 19:09
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I would disagree that they're overrated. Well in stock form maybe they are. Sure. But spend a little money on it and they can become scary fast. Lets say they have immense potential for not a lot of money. They're a great "intro to wrenching on your car 101" because they are so easy to work on (with huge, HUGE aftermarket support). Prices are definitely on the upswing. Here's all the foxbodies between 87 and 93 available anywhere near me: https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4714477733.html $3,300.00 Not bad, but what they omit is the car has very likely been wrecked hard enough to deploy the airbag (aftermarket steering wheel) https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4712926370.html $5,500 Drag car. Interior not complete. Paint not complete. You're basically paying for a bunch of go fast goodies. Was a 4 cyl. https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4684965964.html $3,500 I actually looked at this one. Pretty straight body. Interior is trashed. Windows don't work. Convertible motor is shot. AC doesn't work. Heater doesn't work. If you try and engage 2nd or 3rd faster than a snail and don't get exactly the right rpm range, grind city. https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4706949301.html $8,750 Good solid car except the porn red velvet cake interior  https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4705013941.html $11,995 Great condition, all original car. 122,000 miles but whatever https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4702065302.html $5,400. "Know joy rides!!!", unfortunately. https://mobile.craigslist.org/cto/4685843145.html $5,500 Not bad. Some of the pictures look like they were scanned developed pictures, so wouldn't trust them. Porn red velvet cake interior. If I were in the market, I'd probably look really hard at this one. Note the back windows are in the up position. So, all in all, 5500 is about the sweet spot for a decent example.
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Oct 16, 2014 19:48
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You can get an SN95 for cheaper and it has the same potential as the fox. The catalogue is the same, close enough, or there are equivalents, and you get a car for a couple thousand cheaper. 5.0 or 4.6 pick which ever motor you want. If you want a fox it's because it's because you want a fox body, not because it is the cheapest budget mustang.
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Oct 16, 2014 20:27
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The '94 and '95 SN95 aren't bad (5.0) but the '96 to '98 (4.6) are dogs unless you do a head swap. Especially the '96 and '97. On another note, I saw a '15 today in the wild for the first time. Not a 5.0 and wasn't sure if it was an EB or V6. Orange. Looked a lot bigger than the outgoing models, for some reason.
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Oct 16, 2014 20:51
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Slow is Fast posted:You can get an SN95 for cheaper and it has the same potential as the fox. The catalogue is the same, close enough, or there are equivalents, and you get a car for a couple thousand cheaper. 5.0 or 4.6 pick which ever motor you want. This probably isn't all that relevant anymore, considering age, but SN95 5.0's did not have forged internals. Pre 93' foxbodies were excellent candidates for boost on stock bottom ends. The old cookie cutter Trickflow top end kit + Vortech S trim made gobs of power and mid 10 second potential on nearly stock suspension. Also the 96-98 4.6 SOHC is a turd with 0 potential without a PI head swap, which puts you in 99+ GT territory price wise. edit: I also keep forgetting that SN95s are a bit heavier as well. Auron fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Oct 16, 2014 |
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Oct 16, 2014 21:04
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Slow is Fast posted:If you want a fox it's because it's because you want a fox body, not because it is the cheapest budget mustang. This. I believe I'm the guy you were talking about above with the murdered fox. The car has/I've been doing light mods on it, but fact is, I have no interest in taking it to the strip. I've always thought the fox body looks cool as gently caress, and wanted one since I was a kid (I'm 37). I occasionally do a little traffic light drag-racing, but it's main purpose is for me to just enjoy cruising around in it while being audible from an eighth of a mile away. And yes, every time someone compliments me on the car, it does make me feel good. There are much cheaper options for faster, and if speed were my main impetus, there's a good chance that there wouldn't even be a Ford power plant under the hood of whatever I was driving. Count Freebasie fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 00:45
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Tide posted:The '94 and '95 SN95 aren't bad (5.0) but the '96 to '98 (4.6) are dogs unless you do a head swap. Especially the '96 and '97. You know, I completely forgot about the 94/95 cars. Quick craigslist shows good looking examples under 2k. That, to me, makes it a no brained over a Fox if you're just trying to go fast and want a 5.0. Figure 1500 on the car, that still gives a 4000 budget before you've even hit "decent" Fox territory. That's a suspension overhaul, motor rebuild and some go fast parts of you're doing all the work yourself. Still won't look as cool, but it's definitely an option. And now I'm tempted, gently caress.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:16
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^^^ That's what I was trying to say. And don't let the "non-forged" business scare you off. We ran a procharger on a bone stock 94-95 at 8psi for YEARS. Started spraying washer fluid and upped the timing for around 350. This is with a quick dyno tune and no logging no street tuning and a poo poo tastic piggy back. The motor had issues with it pushing oil out of everywhere, but when we build a new block, there were no issues with the block or rotating assembling on teardown of the old. If it blows up get another or just vortec swap it. And maximum motorsports does not care if you have a fox or an sn95, they will happily take the extra money you save by getting an SN95 and you can still turn gooderer.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:30
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Slow is Fast posted:^^^ Pretty much. And again, a fully forged assembly is right about 600 bucks. So not hugely expensive. Plus the benefit of 5 lug stock, and everything from 94-04 is pretty much interchangeable. I'd like to do one with the steering rack from an 03-04 Cobra, grab seats and probably the rest of an interior from a newer one, brakes from the Cobra, forged 331 and some 4.10s in back.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:35
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iwentdoodie posted:Plus the benefit of 5 lug stock, Yeah, that right there.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:04
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One of the funniest things ive noticed driving a fox versus a sn95 cobra it seemed like every drat stoplight someone was trying to race me in the fox but in my cobra very few times it happened. It didnt matter what the foxbody looked like everyone from minivans to towncars wanted to race that piece of poo poo but that nice looking cobra rolled up and nothing haha.
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Oct 19, 2014 17:51
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Cage posted:
 Someone really doesn't want me to get that wheel.
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Oct 23, 2014 15:14
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Two wheels, ordered at the same time, not arriving at the same time.
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I'd be wheelie pissed off if I were you.
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Oct 23, 2014 16:45
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"An employee has taken your wheel home and affixed it to his own vehicle. This may cause a permanent delay in delivery".
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Oct 23, 2014 22:24
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SouthLAnd posted:"An employee has taken your wheel home and affixed it to his own vehicle. This may cause a permanent delay in delivery". Just check to see if the mail jeep has one torq thrust and 3 steelies. Or maybe just keep ordering new wheels until the jeep has 4 matching ones!
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Oct 24, 2014 00:04
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Scob posted:One of the funniest things ive noticed driving a fox versus a sn95 cobra it seemed like every drat stoplight someone was trying to race me in the fox but in my cobra very few times it happened. It didnt matter what the foxbody looked like everyone from minivans to towncars wanted to race that piece of poo poo but that nice looking cobra rolled up and nothing haha. I get the opposite. One of the things I've found out when talking to people, especially when they ask me about my car, is that they have absolutely no idea how "little" power the 302 puts out. Granted, I'm not running stock, but the "5.0" moniker carries a lot of weight. I also think that part of it is because they assume I'm running a sleeper since it has no body accessories save for the window tint, but the car puts out a pretty good amount of noise and sounds pretty evil, even at idle. Back when I had an '01 Impreza 2.5 RS with an STI 2.5l wrx swap, I couldn't stop at a light without someone revving up next to me. I almost hated driving it, it happened so goddamned much.
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Oct 25, 2014 12:11
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2013 v6 and I've got a couple of questions: 1 - Can I trust the CPU to tell me when to change the oil? I'm at about 7.5k since the last change and would love to just not worry and change the oil whenever it tells me to. 2 - Something got kicked up off the highway and scratched the passenger side pony projector. Now it looks like a hosed up unicorn. How hard/expensive will this be to fix? 3 - Is there any way to make the Microsoft Sync not a steaming pile of garbage? Custom drivers maybe? Why won't it default to whatever device it was playing when I turned it off?
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Nov 4, 2014 05:02
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Necc0 posted:1 - Can I trust the CPU to tell me when to change the oil? I'm at about 7.5k since the last change and would love to just not worry and change the oil whenever it tells me to. I don't know if the computer remembers time, but like your manual says for normal commuter usage your oil change interval is 1 year / 10k miles, whichever comes first. Follow that and you're fine. 2. My pony projectors are all hosed up and both horses look like they have spikes coming off of them. I think that's just how it is.
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Nov 4, 2014 15:52
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Twerk from Home posted:I don't know if the computer remembers time, but like your manual says for normal commuter usage your oil change interval is 1 year / 10k miles, whichever comes first. Follow that and you're fine. I wish the fucks at the dealer knew this. I've taken my car in for service once a year since I bought the loving thing, and never to anywhere else. Their "recommended" service interval is still always in 3-4 months (based on km driven) despite the fact I have around 24,000 km on the car total since I bought it in summer 2010. Not a big deal, but it bugs me.
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Nov 4, 2014 23:30
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I feel like a movie got spoiled for me because someone took a pic of the new secret car's name.
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Nov 4, 2014 23:42
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PT6A posted:I wish the fucks at the dealer knew this. I've taken my car in for service once a year since I bought the loving thing, and never to anywhere else. Their "recommended" service interval is still always in 3-4 months (based on km driven) despite the fact I have around 24,000 km on the car total since I bought it in summer 2010. Yeah, never use the dealer service guidelines. They always add extra unnecessary services that you don't need. Follow what the manual says.
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Nov 5, 2014 00:33
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Bumming Your Scene posted:I feel like a movie got spoiled for me because someone took a pic of the new secret car's name. What?
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Nov 5, 2014 02:11
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