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Welp. I was at NJMP Thunderbolt this weekend. I had a stint/day ending incident where both of my front tires locked up on braking from around 140-145 mph going into Turn 1. I still don't really know what happened. My ABS light started blinking for about 2 minutes afterward and then turned off on its own. Two reasonably fresh tires flatspotted bad. At least it wasn't worse, but I really wasn't expecting that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB3qrig7R30&t=1020s Edit: 05 sti. Roman Rambo fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 28, 2014 23:49
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hedgegnome posted:Hey, so ive got this wrx.. DAM below 16 means that the ECU is seeing some real knock events and is pulling timing/increasing fuel to compensate. While not a serious issue, it does point to things not being as they should be. Do you have any longer data logs that show typical driving? You mentioned hesitation while under 3k, could you log what makes that happen and post a link to the log file?
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Oct 29, 2014 02:55
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BIG HORNY COW posted:I bought a 98 outback with 172k from my boss for $500. Needed new brakes in the front, a good cleaning, minor cosmetic repairs and a new windshield. It's in fantastic shape for Alaska - interior cleaned up really nicely and very, very little rust. It even came with a brand new set of winterforce studs on steelies,, in addition to the the Toyo Observes with 75% that were already on it. After the brakes and other poo poo minus the windshield, I'm only about $800 into this entire thing. Remember to do the rear oil separator.
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Oct 29, 2014 03:21
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Amandyke posted:DAM below 16 means that the ECU is seeing some real knock events and is pulling timing/increasing fuel to compensate. While not a serious issue, it does point to things not being as they should be. Do you have any longer data logs that show typical driving? You mentioned hesitation while under 3k, could you log what makes that happen and post a link to the log file? I have a few others, but theyre short as well. Ill do one tomorrow, how long should i record one for?
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Oct 29, 2014 05:56
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Geirskogul posted:Remember to do the rear oil separator. Yeah it's on the list. I'll probably order one of the metal replacements this week
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Oct 29, 2014 06:54
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My 99 Forester did the WEIRDEST thing Ive even had happen to a car yesterday. I just left a stop sign and was in 1st slowly rolling along up to another stop sign in a parking lot when the drivetrain just locked up out of nowhere, tires screeching and all and the engine stalled. So I pushed in the clutch and was able to restart it but if I let the clutch out it would stall again (in neutral). The other thing was that if it was in gear it wouldnt roll but if I put it in neutral it would. I figured the trans was done for anyway and I wanted to get home which was about a mile down the road so I held the rpms up and just dumped the clutch in reverse. This worked and my car has been totally fine and normal since. The lockup came with zero warning, no noises, no weirdness, it was like I ran into a wall that came out of nowhere. Chrisgt said it might be the nut on the input shaft in the trans coming loose and if its that then the shifter might move back and fourth when its in 5th when you get on/off the gas. I checked that this morning and everything is normal with 5th. Car is still driving normal, anyone have any more ideas? I wont really have a chance to look at anything until this weekend or maybe tomorrow night. Im going to pull the center diff housing and take a look at that nut anyway.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:59
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I'd have the center diff looked at. When mine imploded, the first sign was a momentary drivetrain lockup.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:02
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My '05 LGT (~140k miles) has been throwing P0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) off an on. Recently, it has started to increase in frequency. I've had the spark plugs changed (which seemed to slow down the frequency of the CELs for a couple weeks), and swapped the coil pack to a different cylinder (misfire stayed on cylinder 3). What are the next steps to diagnose the misfire? One mechanic I talked to thinks it might be time for a valve adjustment. Anything else I should consider before going down that route?
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Oct 29, 2014 19:47
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Do a compression test.
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Oct 29, 2014 19:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Do a compression test.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:00
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Splinter posted:Scheduled one. How does the prognosis and next steps change if cylinder 3 show as significant loss of compression, vs slight loss, vs no loss? If there's loss, do a leakdown test to figure out where it's going. From there you'll know what's causing an issue. If the compression tests fine, double check ignition wiring and plugs, those can cause issues and they can look fine visually.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:05
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A leakdown test will tell you if and why compression is low- usually either a leaking valve or cracked piston. They are a bit of a hassle to do on a subaru and not all shops know how to do one properly though.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:17
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Could the injector be another potential source of the issue if compression is fine?
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Oct 29, 2014 22:21
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Possible. If compression/leakdown checks out you could send them to RC engineering in torrance to be cleaned and flow tested. Would probably have them back within a week.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:30
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My 2013 STI's steering wheel started peeling at the very top. Anyone experienced this before and any ideas if it will be covered under warranty? Also - My TPMS light came on last night so I stopped and the nearest gas station and checked all of the tires. Each tire was at spec (33 front/32 rear). I drove the car around and the light still wouldn't go off. After looking in the manual it said if there is a malfunction in the sensor it will blink for 1 minute then stay solid but mine just stays solid when I turn the car on. According to the manual this means a tire is under-inflated but all of my tires are at spec. :/ I'm also starting to hear a very faint clunk/deep rattle in the rear half of the car when I'm driving slowly on bumps or sometimes turns. Sometimes it happens when I'm backing out of the garage which is quite smooth. Any ideas? It doesn't sound like the diff clunk, more prolonged clunking I would say. My power steering pump is squealing again too. This is my first Subaru and I don't think I'm coming back.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:35
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I, for the most part, drive an 09 OB for work. It's sort of our designated night-shift cab - we have a couple of 2010/12 RAV4s that get used more in the daytime. The kind of poo poo I end up driving in on a daily basis would probably make an average motorist in the lower 48 cry. 09 Outback super fun time from work last winter  Natural Habitat, outside the bar  Will porcupine quills stick in a sidewall? The answer is yes. What's strange is that this FL tire held air and the RR tire ended up getting a flat. Not sure how that one happened.  What the roads here looked like this past new years. It had remained cold most of December and then on new year's eve it warmed up to about 40 and poured rain. Insanely slick glare ice and standing water to be drive through on the busiest night of the year. We run Blizzaks on the Subaru and studs on the RAVs - After 2 winters of driving on Blizzaks I would honestly put them up against anything. They're phenomenal  Alaska.jpg - Stripping parts from a Legacy wagon frozen to the ground, with bonus CHEVY LUV in the back I should start taking pictures of all the Subarus in town. There are some magnificent 80s specimens that are both still on the road and rusting in people's driveways. A friend down the street has an 80s GL turbo wagon in his front yard that would probably make a wonderful project.
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Oct 29, 2014 23:40
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pctD posted:My 2013 STI's steering wheel started peeling at the very top. Anyone experienced this before and any ideas if it will be covered under warranty? The tpms system in the modern subarus is a total piece of poo poo. The sensors in the wheels can get knocked loose very easily and depending on who you ask their batteries can die within a year. If you want to get it fixed, take it to a tire/wheel place and tell them to check each sensor. Unfortunately if it's broken it's not cheap to replace. If you know that everything is fine then I suggest you ignore it, as hard as it may seem. You could also disconnect the battery and pump the brakes a bit to force a hard reset. Might fix it. Might not! God I hate that loving tpms lamp. Roman Rambo posted:Welp. I was at NJMP Thunderbolt this weekend. I had a stint/day ending incident where both of my front tires locked up on braking from around 140-145 mph going into Turn 1. I still don't really know what happened. My ABS light started blinking for about 2 minutes afterward and then turned off on its own. How was the ride home 
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Oct 30, 2014 05:08
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Can you remove a fuse or something to disable the system/turn the light off without impacting anything else? It's not like you really need a light to tell you your tyre pressure is low, just check it once a month when you fill up/on the way home from work.
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Oct 30, 2014 05:19
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hedgegnome posted:I have a few others, but theyre short as well. Ill do one tomorrow, how long should i record one for? At least a couple minutes.
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Oct 30, 2014 05:38
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Can you remove a fuse or something to disable the system/turn the light off without impacting anything else? It's not like you really need a light to tell you your tyre pressure is low, just check it once a month when you fill up/on the way home from work.
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Oct 30, 2014 05:40
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Thats really loving dumb. Why did America do that? Is there literally no way to disable it or no easy way like how you can make an awd skyline rwd by removing some fuses or something?
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Oct 30, 2014 06:07
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Yep, stick em in a capped PVC tube with a Schrader fitting, fill to tire pressure, throw in glovebox. It is the only way. They have like little digital serial numbers and poo poo they spit back and forth for authentication. Pretty locked-down system.
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Oct 30, 2014 06:59
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How incredibly stupid.
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Oct 30, 2014 07:07
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Apparently you need the subaru TPMS gizmo in order to register IDs on the ECU. So if you ever have to replace one of the sensors and you don't have / can't find one, you're stuck with the light on. Electrical tape over the light is the usual solution.
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Oct 30, 2014 07:33
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Are the sensors adjustable? What happens if you get a different wheel/tyre combo and set them to a different pressure/get nitrogen or something.
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Oct 30, 2014 08:26
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The sensors have to get swapped into any new wheels / tires if you don't want to have to reprogram new IDs into the ECU. If you have multiple sets of wheels / tires for summer and winter, you can see where this gets irritating. I can't speak for all other manufacturers, but I know with toyota you can do all this poo poo with a $30 TIS cable from amazon.
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Oct 30, 2014 08:38
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I'm glad Australia does have any sort of lovely system like that (afaik). How long has it been a thing for? This is the first time I've ever heard of a system like that, I just assumed it was something new Subaru's had for the old people that buy their cars that have no idea.
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Oct 30, 2014 08:39
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quote:The Firestone recall in the late 1990s (which was linked to more than 100 deaths fromrollovers following tire tread-separation), pushed the United States Congress to legislate the TREAD Act. The Act mandated the use of a suitable TPMS technology in all light motor vehicles (under 10,000 pounds), to help alert drivers of under-inflation events. This act affects all light motor vehicles sold after September 1, 2007. Phase-in started in October 2005 at 20%, and reached 100% for models produced after September 2007. Some companies like Subaru use a dummy light, others, GM for example, show you the exact pressure of each tire, which is nice.
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Oct 30, 2014 11:55
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I have an 08 with TPMS and swap winter and summer rims. I can confirm you need to update the TPMS information via the OBD-II port; not all manufacturers are like this. There are a couple tools out there that are fairly inexpensive (under $200) that will enable you to do this yourself but you need to know the TPMS sensor IDs and the tool cannot read them from the sensor itself. This means you need to either visually inspect all the sensors or have someone with a fully featured TPMS tool read them for you.
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Oct 30, 2014 12:00
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I'm not sure how throwing the sensors in a pressurized PVC pipe would actually work since the sensors do not turn on until they are under centrifugal force from the tire spinning (to save battery) which would never happen outside of a wheel. I have 4 years on my WRX and no trouble with the sensors. I don't have any in my winter set of wheels and I just ignore the light all winter. But within a mile of throwing the summers back on in the spring, the light goes out.
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Oct 30, 2014 14:53
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I'm glad Australia does have any sort of lovely system like that (afaik). How long has it been a thing for? This is the first time I've ever heard of a system like that, I just assumed it was something new Subaru's had for the old people that buy their cars that have no idea. It's actually quite useful and I'm sure it saves lives, how many people actually bother checking their tire pressures regularly. The systems that display PSI per wheel are great. I check my tires every couple of weeks and TPMS has still saved me a few times and meant I could have the nail or whatever removed before the tire was destroyed due to underinflation.
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Oct 30, 2014 15:08
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sanchez posted:It's actually quite useful and I'm sure it saves lives, how many people actually bother checking their tire pressures regularly. The systems that display PSI per wheel are great. Guess what Subaru' systems don't do!
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Oct 30, 2014 15:14
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bull3964 posted:I'm not sure how throwing the sensors in a pressurized PVC pipe would actually work since the sensors do not turn on until they are under centrifugal force from the tire spinning (to save battery) which would never happen outside of a wheel.
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Oct 30, 2014 16:21
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The sensors in the 09 WRX definitely need some time in movement before they turn the light on or off, but once it's switched conditions it stays that way until the condition is either corrected or you flash/reset the system. I can't imagine it's different from other models of that time.
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Oct 30, 2014 16:50
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BIG HORNY COW posted:Some sensors / systems don't check for rotation. There's a ton of posts on toyota forums from people with RAV4s wondering why the hell their TPMS light won't go off when all 4 tires are the correct pressure. Almost all of them are forgetting about the one in the full size spare bolted to the rear door.
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Oct 30, 2014 17:04
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Well, the dealer is ordering a new steering wheel and power steering pump (again). They're also replacing the faulty TPMS sensor. They couldn't reproduce the groaning from the rear half of the car but its so faint I can barely hear it sometimes. At least I have had a relatively good experience with the dealer and warranty service.
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Oct 30, 2014 18:03
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Gigi Galli posted:
It was like being inside a subwoofer box for the worst dubstep song ever (all dubstep songs?).
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Nov 1, 2014 16:39
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Just drove my outback for the first time since it got actually cold around here. Piston slap really enhances the tractor sound.
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Nov 1, 2014 17:45
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Fuelslt1 fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Nov 28, 2018 |
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Nov 2, 2014 01:42
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You know, unlike most dipped cars I've seen lately, that actually looks pretty good. Once it stops raining, I have a couple rattlecans of black that I'm going to unfuck my winter wheels with.
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Nov 2, 2014 02:03
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