|
Does anyone carbonate their own water using their kegging system? I'm getting my first pair of kegs on Thursday and have no beer to put in them yet, :-( but would like to put something in there. Please tell me your procedure for carbing water. Thanks.
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 12:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 19:58 |
|
|
wildfire1 posted:When you say you put the brakes on, did you drop the temperature or just keep it stable? I would avoid sudden cold drops which could reduce attenuation by causing some yeast to flocc out. I think you'll be fine, but if any damage is going to happen it'll already be there, so don't worry about how hot it is now. I did drop the temp down to 70-72 on Monday evening, and I'm gradually ramping it back up. Its at 75 now. It was still fermenting pretty vigorously last night but this morning it seems to have slowed a bit. I will check the gravity tonight.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 13:09
|
|
|
Rikimaru posted:Any of you use this type of airation system? If so, what was your experience? Josh Wow posted:Get a tank and stone or don't bother with anything fancier than pouring vigorously between two buckets. Using atmospheric techniques like a mix stir, one of those small pumps or pouring between buckets all have the same upper limit to how much oxygen you can get into the beer so you may as well go for the cheapest ime that works for you. I use an airstone with an aquarium pump, mostly because I am too lazy to pour beer around or shake it. I already had an aquarium pump lying around and just connected my stone up to some spare keg line though. I would use oxygen but those little cylinders are about $40 each here in Australia.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 13:59
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:Does anyone carbonate their own water using their kegging system? Assuming you are using some kind of municipal water that has been treated with chlorine/fluorine; fill the keg to just below the CO2 dip tube with water, let it set at room temperature for 48 hours with the lid open to get the chlorine/fluorine out of solution, after 48 hours put the lid on, purge with CO2, and let it sit refrigerated for a week at 30-35 PSI.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 14:00
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:I'm getting my first pair of kegs on Thursday and have no beer to put in them yet, :-( but would like to put something in there. Procure one liter of gin and 1 liter of tonic water. Dump in keg and set to 35 psi. Put lime in bottom of glass and blast out some gin and tonics on demand. Best party I ever had.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 15:03
|
|
|
I spent all of $10 on my air pump and stone at a local big box retailer. I don't see much of a point in using it for abv beers, but it's nice to be able to re-oxygenate higher abv beers like the stout I just brewed.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 15:06
|
|
|
Josh Wow posted:Get a tank and stone or don't bother with anything fancier than pouring vigorously between two buckets. Using atmospheric techniques like a mix stir, one of those small pumps or pouring between buckets all have the same upper limit to how much oxygen you can get into the beer so you may as well go for the cheapest ime that works for you. My homebrew store just taught me to put the plug in and cover the hole and shake the crap out of the carboy for like 30 seconds.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 15:18
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:Does anyone carbonate their own water using their kegging system? I've done that. Having chilled bubble water around is drat refreshing when the weather is hot. Any method that works with beer will work fine for water also - I just fill the keg, hook it up at serving temp/pressure, and let it sit there. You could just as easily crank the pressure up to 30PSI for a couple of days or shake the hell out of it to speed it along. Me, I'm lazy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
Jo3sh posted:I've done that. Having chilled bubble water around is drat refreshing when the weather is hot. Any method that works with beer will work fine for water also - I just fill the keg, hook it up at serving temp/pressure, and let it sit there. You could just as easily crank the pressure up to 30PSI for a couple of days or shake the hell out of it to speed it along. Me, I'm lazy. What's a proper serving pressure? Would 8-10 psi do the trick if you like really fizzy water?
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 18:32
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:What's a proper serving pressure? Would 8-10 psi do the trick if you like really fizzy water? Probably more like 12PSI would be my guess.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2014 19:42
|
|
|
Josh Wow posted:Procure one liter of gin and 1 liter of tonic water. Dump in keg and set to 35 psi. Put lime in bottom of glass and blast out some gin and tonics on demand. Best party I ever had. What's everyone else going to drink though?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 05:20
|
|
|
Adult Sword Owner posted:What's everyone else going to drink though?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 05:37
|
|
|
nmfree posted:Josh Wow was alone. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 05:46
|
|
|
Haha. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 06:26
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:What's a proper serving pressure? Would 8-10 psi do the trick if you like really fizzy water?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 13:39
|
|
|
CapnBry posted:Seltzer water is something like 4+ volumes of CO2. 4 volumes is 30 PSI at 42F or 22.5 PSI at 32F. 9 PSI will give you 2.1 volumes at 42F which is appropriate for a british ale but not as carbonated as off-the-shelf seltzer water. That's kind of what I was thinking. I figure it was going to be in the 20-30 range since seltzer water *appears to be* fizzier than beer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 18:01
|
|
|
If I had an extra regulator I would totally convert a keg to just seltzer, we drink a ton Come to think of it I do have one, if I can figure out why the hell it doesn't work
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 18:42
|
|
|
Got the feedback sheet from the national today! Well pleased. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 20:09
|
|
|
What size socket do I need for this gas post?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 21:49
|
|
|
Some of them are 7/8", some are 11/16". I've got a keg with one of each... And of course both of them come in 6 and 12 point varieties. I've got 12 point 7/8" and 11/16" sockets and use them even on the 6 point ones. I've still got one gas post that's stuck on good. Like, one person holding the keg, 2ft piece of conduit over the socket wrench, still won't come loose. edit: that looks like 7/8". The 11/16" ones are smaller (obviously) and are basically straight instead of flaring out at the bottom. more falafel please fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Oct 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 22:15
|
|
|
I recently brewed a recipe and it calls for racking to a secondary fermenter, I don't have a secondary right now so I will have to leave it in the primary. That said, would I leave it in the primary fermenter for the same amount of time that I was supposed to leave it in the secondary, or would I need to bottle it sooner? It's my first brew, so I'm not 100% sure on how long to leave it there. Recipe called for 10 days in primary, 15 in secondary and 14+ in bottle, so my plan is 25 days in primary then 14+ in bottle. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 23:13
|
|
|
Bottle it when the gravity has been stable for three days. Don't bother with secondary, all that does is risk adding oxygen and other undesirables.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 23:22
|
|
|
That's totally fine, most people don't use secondaries anymore. It's kind of a relic of the days when yeast was really lovely.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2014 23:25
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:What size socket do I need for this gas post? 7/8", 12-point, deep.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 00:05
|
|
|
LaserWash posted:What size socket do I need for this gas post? Just an FYI, I got a keg from Midwest supplies that had a wonky post on it, couldn't find an SAE (aka imperial, aka non-metric) wrench that would work on it, everything was either too big or too small and I was incrementing by 1/16th as I checked it. Ended up being a metric-sized post, something like 22 or 23mm. Had to buy a single wrench for this one post. Another reason I despise Midwest. If it comes down to it, use whatever you have on hand to get the thing off, and go buy a regular replacement post - it'll be cheaper than buying a wrench for it if you don't own the right sized wrench already.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 00:16
|
|
|
I found these kegs on homebrew finds, 2 for $100. The shipping was something like $20 from Oregon to texas. I thought it was a good deal. I found that 7/8 inch, 12 point worked perfectly. Now I'd like to find something that works with the other posts, so I think I'll go to harbor freight and buy something cheapy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 01:00
|
|
|
Harbor Freight equipment touching things you ingest sounds like a great path to lead poisoning.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 01:11
|
|
|
Adult Sword Owner posted:Harbor Freight equipment touching things you ingest sounds like a great path to lead poisoning. Haha. Lucky for me all I bought was a socket wrench from harbor freight, but I know what you mean. Everything else came from lowes and Home Depot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 03:11
|
|
|
Adult Sword Owner posted:Harbor Freight equipment touching things you ingest sounds like a great path to lead poisoning. I guess you could give the beer name a Roman theme!
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 17:05
|
|
|
Need No Instruction posted:I recently brewed a recipe and it calls for racking to a secondary fermenter, I don't have a secondary right now so I will have to leave it in the primary. That said, would I leave it in the primary fermenter for the same amount of time that I was supposed to leave it in the secondary, or would I need to bottle it sooner? You're fine man, just don't secondary. I haven't used a second fermentation vessel in years. Also don't worry so much about how long a recipe tells you to ferment. You need to take gravity samples of your wort (usually after airlock activity has stopped). Once you get a consistent gravity reading from one day to the next you are clear to bottle/keg. Make sure this reading, your final gravity, makes sense and is close to what recipe estimated. Obviously you don't want to bottle/keg if you have a stuck fermentation. If the recipe was asking you to do a secondary because you're adding fruit, berries, coffee, dryhopping - just add it to primary. If the purpose was for clearer wort, then try one of these things; Cold crash your primary vessel to 35-45 degrees for 48h at the end of primary fermentation to help get suspended particles out of the wort. Use gelatin in your bottling bucket or kegs - read up on it - it's freaking amazing. Pay attention when you siphon from your primary to your bottling bucket/keg, try your best to skip the trub. The more you do this the easier it becomes and the more you scratch your head saying why the hell did I ever do it that way for so long. evelyn87 fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Oct 31, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 19:54
|
|
|
evelyn87 posted:Use gelatin in your bottling bucket or kegs - read up on it - it's freaking amazing. Only if you don't care about serving your beer to strict vegans. Just a warning, not a recommendation either way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 20:25
|
|
|
What's the easiest way to reuse yeast from one batch to another? I have a pumpkin ale fermenting with WLP001 and I want to start a sour next using the same yeast + some bugs. I've read a bit on rinsing with cooled boiled water and storing in jars in the fridge but I am wondering if I can just scoop some of the sludge from the fermenter and use it as is. Would flavors transfer if I did this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 20:47
|
|
|
crazyfish posted:Only if you don't care about serving your beer to strict vegans. Just a warning, not a recommendation either way. I believe you get the same effect with pectin.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 20:54
|
|
|
Economic Sinkhole posted:What's the easiest way to reuse yeast from one batch to another? I have a pumpkin ale fermenting with WLP001 and I want to start a sour next using the same yeast + some bugs. I've read a bit on rinsing with cooled boiled water and storing in jars in the fridge but I am wondering if I can just scoop some of the sludge from the fermenter and use it as is. Would flavors transfer if I did this? You can literally just rack your fresh wort on top of the yeast cake, that's what I did with my imperial stout. It'll still be very active though, blowoff tube recommended and obviously you'd lose some of the fermenter's volume to it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2014 21:00
|
|
|
I would just rack onto the cake. Bugs take time to get 'really crazy' a few generations could be the difference between "It's got a little bit" and " "This is a face melter" I tossed dregs from Jolly Pumpkin/Tilquin into a batch of... well...garbage, and it turned out alright, 3.5/5. I'll be Keeping these bros happy until my next sour. If you can time things well enough to reuse yeast, then your set. otherwise, make a GIGANTOSTARTER and use half of it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2014 05:55
|
|
|
My favourite experience was forgetting yeast full stop. I just started drinking everything in the house that had yeast in it and throwing in the dregs. It worked alright!
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2014 13:23
|
|
|
Well, after reading about people taking a big whiff of the fermenters and getting knocked on their asses, I finally did it. I put my nose over the bucket and my amarillo saison punched me in the face so hard that I think I almost blacked out. Holy poo poo that is unpleasant. In other news, the beer tastes awesome.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2014 17:31
|
|
|
evelyn87 posted:You're fine man, just don't secondary. I haven't used a second fermentation vessel in years. Also don't worry so much about how long a recipe tells you to ferment. You need to take gravity samples of your wort (usually after airlock activity has stopped). Once you get a consistent gravity reading from one day to the next you are clear to bottle/keg. Make sure this reading, your final gravity, makes sense and is close to what recipe estimated. Obviously you don't want to bottle/keg if you have a stuck fermentation. You are awesome, thanks for the tips!
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2014 18:17
|
|
|
Brewed a red rye last week and came out 10 points low on the OG. Usually I can figure out why my efficiency takes a hit but I'm really puzzled this time. My grind was good (milled the rye twice.) Recipe was made with more than enough diastatic power. My mash stayed between 153 to 150 for over an hour. Sparge water may have been a bit hotter than usual (185) but I'm under the impression that shouldn't hurt my efficiency. Boil volume was exactly as calculated. The only thing I can think of is I didn't measure my mash pH. My meter is a jankey pain in the rear end and after several all grain batches I stopped using it opting to just trust the numbers I get from Bru'n water. It's never given me trouble before and I've always gotten good results. The resulting og is still 1.050 so it should still be a (hopefully) tasty beer. I'm just annoyed I can't pinpoint the cause in case I want to remake this one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2014 23:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 19:58 |
|
|
HatfulOfHollow posted:Well, after reading about people taking a big whiff of the fermenters and getting knocked on their asses, I finally did it. I put my nose over the bucket and my amarillo saison punched me in the face so hard that I think I almost blacked out. Holy poo poo that is unpleasant.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2014 00:21
|
|
