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Ashcans posted:If you are going to do this, don't use fake gold coins. Instead, go to the bank and get a bunch of Sacagawea dollars. Now you have actual coins in your coinpurse that are legal tender and you can freely use to buy poo poo and tip with, which is a lot better than slamming down your fake coins and then having to carefully scoop them back up and awkwardly offer your debit card instead. Nah, I used to sell food at Ren Faires, and we always gave those as change too. Stuffing bills into a pouch is a huge pain in the rear end, and it's just a matter of the bank dropping them through the change machine when you deposit 'em. Plus, people in the US don't think of coins as 'real' money, so they tip better. 
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Nov 1, 2014 02:58
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ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: Halloween costume next to the real thing. First time ever, I think. I sent them a message a couple days in advance and they were super cool about me going down there in costume. The manager met me with an assistant/translator and let me past the velvet rope to stand next to the bots in the venue entrance (pictured here) and in the lounge (decent photos, but not as good as these).     On the outside, I'm posing for pictures. On the inside, I'm shrieking and flapping my hands and jumping up and down in glee.
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Nov 1, 2014 06:15
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Mecha Neko posted:ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: Halloween costume next to the real thing. First time ever, I think. This is great and makes me very happy.
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Nov 1, 2014 06:50
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Mecha Neko posted:ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: Halloween costume next to the real thing. First time ever, I think. This is the absolutely the hypest poo poo ever, no lie. Before, during, after. Punk Lich kicks rear end - I just wish I was cool enough to pull off the jacket on non-haloweeny nights. The LEDs were hardcore - the little green dude went all night, and was still glowing when I checked on it this morning! Sadly, I overestimated the strength of the magnets on the phylactery, and the bottom fell off at some point. Luckily the suction cup on the lights kept them in place, so no worries.   
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Nov 1, 2014 09:01
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I made this costume for my niece this year. She wanted to be Cerise Hood from Ever After High (a doll line where the children of fairy tale characters go to high school.) I made the cape, tunic, belt, and basket liner. The belt was the most fun by far, just craft foam covered in suede with lots and lots of fabric glue and purely decorative top stitching. She was supposed to have a white streak in her hair, but it was the first time I'd done hair chalk and I messed it all up with no time to redo it. I'm going to be so sad when she finally gets old enough to stop having me make her costumes.
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Nov 1, 2014 15:53
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Here's my wife and I goofing around away from the crowds in Salem last night http://youtu.be/OqbgH7iXe-I
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Nov 1, 2014 15:59
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McKilligan posted:This is the absolutely the hypest poo poo ever, no lie. You gave me an idea for next year  This rocks! Great job man.
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Nov 2, 2014 01:20
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Can you get some close up pics of the phylactery? Also, again, requesting the LEDs that you snagged off amazon. There's a crapload of them on amazon and I'd prefer to get something I know works well already.
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Nov 2, 2014 02:33
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Can you get some close up pics of the phylactery? Here ya go, they're some random chinese stuff off of G-Market.
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Nov 2, 2014 02:38
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Funhilde posted:keep it white and be "ghost magneto"  (this is Magneto's current look)
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Nov 2, 2014 03:59
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Is he an astronaut? Why is his head so tiny? Did his brain ooze down into his biceps? How is he so ripped, isn't he like 90?
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Nov 3, 2014 04:10
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my cat is norris posted:How is he so ripped, isn't he like 90? Sort of.. He was de-aged to a baby for a while so his age is a bit messed up:  I finished glueing the helmet together and wore it as-is on halloween. Can't decide between painting the classic red/purple or his current black/silver look: 
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Nov 3, 2014 06:30
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I think it turned out pretty well. An epee referee. (It's a fencing joke)    My sister first thought Manny Calavera. I might have to go rent a white tux next year...
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Nov 3, 2014 14:45
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Since we're sharing Halloween costumes, here's my finished Retro Astronaut:  (with bonus Sugar Skull GF  )I ended up making the boots semi-freehand, because "Moon Boots" are $180 now. At that point of the night, part of the backpack had fallen off - the part with the antennas. But it still turned out pretty great.
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Nov 4, 2014 19:25
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Where'd ya get the bowl for the helmet? Might make a cool Mysterio for next year!
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Nov 4, 2014 20:14
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It's a 14" lighting globe. Most lighting companies can order them in, or you can get them online. And yea, that would be neat - I'd just have to figure out how to mirror-tint it so it looks good.
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Nov 4, 2014 21:15
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TwystNeko posted:It's a 14" lighting globe. Most lighting companies can order them in, or you can get them online. And yea, that would be neat - I'd just have to figure out how to mirror-tint it so it looks good. there are some spray on automotive tints that you can try on the globe, not sure about the mirror tint though.
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Nov 4, 2014 23:59
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I'm in the process of making a jetstream sam cosplay, at this point I'm still cutting cardboard as guidelines for the foam I'll be turning into the armour pads later. Can I get any pointers from experienced costumers?
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Nov 6, 2014 12:33
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Samuel posted:I'm in the process of making a jetstream sam cosplay, at this point I'm still cutting cardboard as guidelines for the foam I'll be turning into the armour pads later. Can I get any pointers from experienced costumers? What foam? Though the principle of "measure twice cut once" is a good one to live by. My experience with EVA foam has been to measure thoroughly, but only cut once. Even ridiculously sharp blades a second cut always looks worse than one clean cut.
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Nov 6, 2014 13:19
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Yoga mats, I think heat + plastidip + paint will allow me to make it lifelike enough. I'm putting all the powerarmour muscles on a wetsuit I bought and still have to paint in the appropriate vanilla/tan colours. I think the pads will be glued on.
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Nov 6, 2014 13:36
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Titanic in action: Halloween was a big success! We heard "TOO SOON" roughly a thousand times.
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Nov 6, 2014 14:44
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I decided to crank out a Star-Lord of my own to break in my new printer. I rushed it a bit trying to get it finished before Halloween but it came together well enough. I tried the pepakura and foam route for a few projects but I was never satisfied with the result. I have a bad habit of getting impatient with little fiddly things when I know I'm getting close to finishing. Taking the physical construction mostly out of my hands seems to be working out! Unfortunately in my haste the paint didn't end up as clean as I wanted. Also the eye section seems to have jumped a few times which resulted in some lines that didn't get fully sanded away. Also I made it a touch too small so it's a bit difficult to get on and off. But! The beauty of having my own machine is if I'm not totally satisfied then I can just crank out a new one, even if it's a few days of printing. I've been trying a few small things as well to get a feel for different print settings, I ran off a Ghost from Destiny and you can actually aim it's eye around and even load an LED if you know how. Does anybody have any ideas for little props like the Ghost that might be good to try?
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Nov 6, 2014 16:30
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Man I am wishing I had a bigger 3d printer right about now. That star lord helmet is awesome.
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Nov 6, 2014 22:57
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Has anyone ever experimented with color changing car paint used in armor making? I'm wanting to build a suit of Tzeench marked chaos armor and the color changing would be an amazing effect, but the paint seems hard to come by and might melt foam. Anyone have experience working with it or know of other ways to get the same look?
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Nov 11, 2014 16:02
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Dynastes posted:Has anyone ever experimented with color changing car paint used in armor making? I'm wanting to build a suit of Tzeench marked chaos armor and the color changing would be an amazing effect, but the paint seems hard to come by and might melt foam. Anyone have experience working with it or know of other ways to get the same look? Are you talking about the stuff that changes color depending on angle? Because the "paramagnetic" stuff is a hoax.
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Nov 11, 2014 17:08
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my cat is norris posted:Are you talking about the stuff that changes color depending on angle? Because the "paramagnetic" stuff is a hoax.
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Nov 11, 2014 17:39
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Are you talking about iridescent paint? Sometimes you can coat foam in a mixture of wood glue and water to seal it before you paint it. I have done that to protect styrofoam from spray paint, which would otherwise melt the foam. If you do that though the foam won't be flexible anymore.
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Nov 11, 2014 17:53
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Dynastes posted:I hadn't even seen that. I was talking about the angle dependent one, the auto body versions I found are very expensive and require lacquer and thinners and primers that look like they would eat foam. Liquitex sells some iridescent colors. These are just acrylic paints, and should behave as such.
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Nov 11, 2014 19:03
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Thanks for the ideas. I'll look into the liquitex, and I also found that rustoleum has a color shift that shifts from blue to red to purple, and plasti-dip has a coating as well that would save time as I'll be already coating the foam in plasti-dip to seal it.
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Nov 11, 2014 19:12
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My kids were disappointed that I didn't (and never have) dress up for Halloween, so I decided I'll show them to watch what they wish for: I'd like to make a Pyramid Head costume, game version. The main thing that I am having issues with is getting the helmet dimensions down. Does anyone recommend a 3D model extractor I can use to pull the model from the game disc itself? I know such things exist, but haven't played around with them yet. Or, even easier, does someone know of an online repository of 3D models from games? If I had the dimensions of the helmet and Great Knife, that'd make the project that much quicker and more enjoyable. Also, I was thinking of making the helmet out of actual metal, either aluminum or very thin steel. I know a welder who can cut and join the pieces together without a problem, but should I go with something much lighter? I don't plan on going to cons wearing this thing all day, just a party or two and going trick or treating.
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Nov 11, 2014 19:41
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:My kids were disappointed that I didn't (and never have) dress up for Halloween, so I decided I'll show them to watch what they wish for: I'd like to make a Pyramid Head costume, game version. I guess my question would be why make it heavier than it needs to be? What benefit would making it out of metal give to counteract the inconvenient parts? You're going to be wearing it on your head, extra weight is going to feel terrible. I would personally do it out of sheet plastic or even cardboard. It would be lighter, easier to cut/glue, and wayyyy easier to paint.
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Nov 11, 2014 20:02
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:Also, I was thinking of making the helmet out of actual metal, either aluminum or very thin steel. I know a welder who can cut and join the pieces together without a problem, but should I go with something much lighter? I don't plan on going to cons wearing this thing all day, just a party or two and going trick or treating. Go for metal looking, not real metal. Like Pantserton suggests, cardboard or plastic will be much, much more comfortable for a costume like this. I say this having tried on a friend's Pyramid Head -- the proportions are just uncomfortable for heavy materials.
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Nov 11, 2014 20:05
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I've worn a steel Soviet helmet before, and the weight is definitely noticeable to the point where it's always affecting how you move your head. Even made from aluminum, a full Pyramid Head mask is going to be a literal pain. This Instructable includes the dimensions used for the helmet the creator made.
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Nov 11, 2014 20:08
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I could make two versions, one plastic and one aluminum. My main concern is that if this big awkward thing got dropped, it'd break if it were made of cardboard and foam. Some sort of plastic though, that'd be more durable. I'd think that I'd be wearing a bicycle helmet inside of the helmet, partially to mitigate the weight of the thing, and partially to make sure it stayed in it's place. The character has lumps of flesh that are foaming out from underneath the edge of the helmet, which I could strategically place to put the weight on my shoulders and chest, as well. While I'm sure this sounds foolish, but I'd like to make something that I could reuse for Halloween again and again. I'm not interested in diversifying out from this one costume, and would be willing to spend a decent amount of money to make this it look really accurate, and last a long time.
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Nov 11, 2014 20:45
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I'd still vote plastics, you could use something seriously thick and still have it be easier to wrangle than a metal one. Pretty much all my costumes are made from plastic and as long as it isn't super thin, styrene/abs/worbla all have a really quite long lifespan. A thick gauge of ABS is going to be way lighter, not as sharp, pretty indestructible, and still way easier to paint. So in McPantserton cosplay news, for the last few months I've been chugging along on smaller stuff but I'm fiiiiinally just about done with sewing (gently caress bias tape forever, I swear to god). Next project that's already underway is Sorceress Edea from FF8, and once she's done I'm going to start in on my big 2015 project--my group has decided we are doing WarCraft. So I'll be rocking a version of this beast!  I am terribly excited. Haven't decided how much I'm going to alter the breastplate so I'm obviously a woman in there but I definitely want to be the Lich Queen. This is my third costume that will be totally covered in skulls, I'm starting to get super good at sculpting them, haha!
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Nov 11, 2014 20:59
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McPantserton posted:I'd still vote plastics, you could use something seriously thick and still have it be easier to wrangle than a metal one. Pretty much all my costumes are made from plastic and as long as it isn't super thin, styrene/abs/worbla all have a really quite long lifespan. A thick gauge of ABS is going to be way lighter, not as sharp, pretty indestructible, and still way easier to paint. ABS it is, then. Happily, there's a plastics supplier with stores in the Seattle area here that can make cut-to-order sheets. What materials would you guys suggest for the Great Knife? A friend suggested MDF board for the bulk of it, and just put a bit of real metal at a particular point for making noise on concrete.
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Nov 11, 2014 22:44
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McPantserton posted:I'd still vote plastics, you could use something seriously thick and still have it be easier to wrangle than a metal one. Pretty much all my costumes are made from plastic and as long as it isn't super thin, styrene/abs/worbla all have a really quite long lifespan. A thick gauge of ABS is going to be way lighter, not as sharp, pretty indestructible, and still way easier to paint. As someone who recently resubbed to WoW and have been doing all the Wrath, cata, and panda raids... this idea sounds amazing and I cant wait to see it.
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Nov 12, 2014 01:37
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:ABS it is, then. Happily, there's a plastics supplier with stores in the Seattle area here that can make cut-to-order sheets. I'm not a cosplayer,but I work in home improvement retail. MDF is really heavy, as well as fragile/brittle. You pick the sword up the wrong way, and there's a good chance it could snap under its own weight.
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Nov 12, 2014 01:47
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Keep in mind that while realism is appreciated, you'll actually need to wear the costume and carry the props. The lightest MDF at Home Depot (1/4 inch thick) weighs 1.10 pounds per square foot, and the thickest (1 1/4 inch thick) is 5.4 pounds. Depending on how big the blade is and what thickness of MDF you use, you'll likely end up with a 6 or 7 pound blade alone. Adding metal to scrape it on concrete will increase the weight further. You're gonna end up dragging around a prop that weighs more than a real steel broadsword, on top of a heavy and probably uncomfortable helmet. Realism is good. Heft is good. Strength is good. Not collapsing and being crushed under the weight of your costume is better.
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Nov 12, 2014 04:39
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Tricerapowerbottom posted:ABS it is, then. Happily, there's a plastics supplier with stores in the Seattle area here that can make cut-to-order sheets. Do what I did and use foamcore. It's super light, yet durable and ridiculously easy to work with. I'll get some photos of my PH helmet up as soon as I can for reference. And for the great knife, use 1" rigid insulation foam board. You can get an 8'x2' sheet at any Home Depot or Lowes for like $12. I embedded a couple of nickels in the curve so that it'd make a scraping noise when I dragged it along the ground.
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Nov 12, 2014 05:42
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