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Good God. I'm pretty sure the p.o. of my speed put the oil filter housing on with an impact wrench. It appears as if it's already slightly rounded out too. I'm using the Mazda flute wrench, but I'm going to go buy a new housing right now because I might have to use channel locks or something. I've heard horror stories of micro fractured housings failing.
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 20:13
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Google Butt posted:Good God. I'm pretty sure the p.o. of my speed put the oil filter housing on with an impact wrench. It appears as if it's already slightly rounded out too. I'm using the Mazda flute wrench, but I'm going to go buy a new housing right now because I might have to use channel locks or something. I've heard horror stories of micro fractured housings failing. If I were you, I would do the spin on conversion then.
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Nov 15, 2014 20:27
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MetaJew posted:If I were you, I would do the spin on conversion then. I was looking into this and it it sounds like a few people had their oil cooler gasket tear on them and Mazda doesn't sell those, you have to buy a new oil cooler. I figured it wouldn't be that hard to muscle the stuck filter housing off with channel locks if I have a replacement ready to go. Could be wrong though.
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Nov 15, 2014 20:58
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In hindsight, one of the few things I wish I'd done differently with my MS3 was not getting the drat spin-on kit day one. The other was waiting sooooo long to put motor mounts on it.
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Nov 16, 2014 07:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:In hindsight, one of the few things I wish I'd done differently with my MS3 was not getting the drat spin-on kit day one. I had luck with the Mazda flute wrench this time, all is well! I've had the JBR 88d RMM installed for about 5k now, and I have the PMM/TMM sitting next to me. Personally, I fuckin' want them, but I have a feeling my passengers aren't going to like them very much. Do you have the full trilogy, thoughts? My mod list is growing: Accessport v2 Gen 2 fuel pump w/ AT internals Gutted stock midpipe JBR SRI/TIP JBR RSB JBR RMM JBR heavy shift knob + weight CNT CBE (Just installed, pretty quiet.. less drone at 80mph than stock) Centric rotors Porterfield R4S pads I'm working with Justin from Freektune on my modest 91 tune and soon a 33% e85 mix. The car feels absolutely amazing right now.
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Nov 16, 2014 07:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:In hindsight, one of the few things I wish I'd done differently with my MS3 was not getting the drat spin-on kit day one.
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Nov 16, 2014 08:15
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CharlesM posted:Why? It's far more convenient. A lot of motor failures have been attributed to our cartridge housings as well (most likely user error though). Pinched o rings, over tightening the housing, or using anything other than a flute wrench, may cause micro fractures that will eventually lead to a catastrophic failure of the housing, and then your motor. Overall it shouldn't be that much of an issue if you do your own oil changes, oil up both o rings, take care to not cross thread or over tighten the housing. I'll never trust anyone to change my oil, as long as I have a cartridge filter at least. Definitely buy the oem flute wrench, it's an odd size. An AutoZone wrench might work, but the savings don't justify the risk. With the spin on conversion, there's pretty much no downside except the initial install. If you gently caress up the oil cooler gasket, you have to buy a new oil cooler (thanks Mazda). Google Butt fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Nov 16, 2014 |
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Nov 16, 2014 11:46
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I think I had a grammar failure. I thought he meant he should not have got the spin on kit.
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Nov 16, 2014 11:56
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CharlesM posted:I think I had a grammar failure. I thought he meant he should not have got the spin on kit. Yeah, I went all-in on the cartridge filters (ordered a big box of 'em from a Mazda dealer plus the 'correct' cup wrench). They're just so much more tedious with that drain plug and O-rings and poo poo. When I did the first oil change on the CR-V after I traded the MS3 in on it, I remembered how painless an oil change was supposed to be. On mounts: I did the upper (my factory one exploded) and the rear. I skipped the transmission one since after those it was already plenty firm and buzzy.
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Nov 16, 2014 16:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:The other was waiting sooooo long to put motor mounts on it.
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Nov 16, 2014 18:27
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MourningGlory posted:I think I had my '13 MS3 for all of 2 weeks before I put a JBR rear mount on it. The factory unit was so sloppy it made the car nearly undriveable. I don't understand how Mazda allowed it to go into production with such an obvious flaw. The funny thing is the RMM has been poo poo since the first gen. Maybe it was sold like that so the card wouldn't vibrate so hard and offput potential buyers or their significant other. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes in that car and how quick it is to do.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:43
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MourningGlory posted:I think I had my '13 MS3 for all of 2 weeks before I put a JBR rear mount on it. The factory unit was so sloppy it made the car nearly undriveable. I don't understand how Mazda allowed it to go into production with such an obvious flaw. I had a 2008.5 MS3 and the engine moved so much that at an autocross a coolant line that is normally clipped to the radiator got pulled out, and cut by the fan. I was pretty pissed. Then again when I went to the drag strip I did a burnout before my run. It wheel hopped so much that afterwards I saw scrapes on the bottom of the hood from the engine rubbing it. And that's with me stopping as soon as it started hopping. Ridiculous.
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Nov 16, 2014 22:39
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I put the corksport inserts in my '12 MS3 because they were cheap and I didn't want my daily driver to get all buzzy to the point my girlfriend would hate riding in it. Have any of you gone the full progression from stock --> inserts --> full motor mount? I'm wondering how much of a difference it would make, she already hates riding in it anyways because of the car being so stiff that anything other than a perfectly smooth road makes the car feel bouncy to her.
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Nov 17, 2014 13:45
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Viper915 posted:I put the corksport inserts in my '12 MS3 because they were cheap and I didn't want my daily driver to get all buzzy to the point my girlfriend would hate riding in it. Have any of you gone the full progression from stock --> inserts --> full motor mount? I'm wondering how much of a difference it would make, she already hates riding in it anyways because of the car being so stiff that anything other than a perfectly smooth road makes the car feel bouncy to her. I've not done that, but I can tell you that my jbr 88d is fine, a few thousand miles and the only vibes were idling with the a.c. on. I had my tuner raise my idle to 900 rpm and all vibration is gone, even less than stock. It's easier to take off in first too! I do know that while jbr is great and cheap, the cp-e stage 2 rmm is widely accepted as being the best as far as nvh goes.
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Nov 17, 2014 20:12
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Apparently my problems/noise are all from the tires. 35k miles on them. Dealer said I needed new tires, service place down the road called bullshit. Got the alignment done (dealer had it all day on scheduled appt and didn't get poo poo done). No real difference in feel/noise thus far but hoping I can just run these tires for a while longer. REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 22:28
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Just picked up my new (to me) car. NZ new car, 53,500kms when I picked it up so I did end up paying top dollar. For all the hundred of imports around its actually quite hard to find an NZ new one of these in decent nick (ruled out imports on the lack of cruise, proper audio systems and side airbags alone, let alone non-existent service histories). Pretty drat cool coming from a big, floaty, automatic V35 Skyline - certainly put a massive grin on my face during the 400km drive back
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Nov 22, 2014 23:11
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Gratz! Man I will never stop loving the 1st gen look  One of the reasons I bought an 09.
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Nov 23, 2014 00:43
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dissss posted:Just picked up my new (to me) car. Welcome to the club, man!  I'm on my first tank of 33% e85 and it feels like this car was made for it.
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Nov 23, 2014 03:04
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I just bought a $98 downpipe on Ebay because the car is paid for and who gives a gently caress.
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Nov 23, 2014 03:15
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Rhyno posted:I just bought a $98 downpipe on Ebay because the car is paid for and who gives a gently caress. Hope you have an Accessport, AT fuel pump internals and a tune ready to go.. or that's going to be a very expensive $98. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 23, 2014 03:20
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Google Butt posted:Hope you have an Accessport, AT fuel pump internals and a tune ready to go.. or that's going to be a very expensive $98. I have the hpfp poo poo on my desk, AP probably at tax time. I need a whole new exhaust and decided gently caress Corksport, i've been throwing CELs ever since i put in their intake.
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Nov 23, 2014 03:51
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Rhyno posted:I have the hpfp poo poo on my desk, AP probably at tax time. I need a whole new exhaust and decided gently caress Corksport, i've been throwing CELs ever since i put in their intake. I'd suggest you get that AP first do the internals after that. Why do you need an exhaust? Unless you've got a turbo bigger than stock you will see no power gains. Money would be better spent on a professional e-tune if you really want an increase in power. Gen 1 or gen 2 and what other mods do you have? The safe modding path is AP (with appropriate OTS tune) > internals > SRI/TIP > test pipe/gutted stock cat > pro e-tune (with a 33% e85 mix). Everything after that will give you relatively small increases in hp (like the dp) unless you're going big turbo. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 23, 2014 04:57
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The car needs a new exhaust because the pile of poo poo the PO put on it is rusting out. 3 years ago I was going to go full Corksport but I got caught up in other cars. I'm not going to install any of the parts until I have them all on hand.
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Nov 23, 2014 08:48
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Rhyno posted:The car needs a new exhaust because the pile of poo poo the PO put on it is rusting out. 3 years ago I was going to go full Corksport but I got caught up in other cars. For sure. If you're gen 1, I'd suggest the CNT CBE.. just got mine and I'm impressed with the quality for the price, I couldn't bring myself to spend more than $350 for sound. I've heard the gen 2 exhaust has some rattling issues.
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Nov 23, 2014 08:52
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Google Butt posted:For sure. If you're gen 1, I'd suggest the CNT CBE.. just got mine and I'm impressed with the quality for the price, I couldn't bring myself to spend more than $350 for sound. I've heard the gen 2 exhaust has some rattling issues. I'm in a MS6, no gen 2 for us poor bastards.
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Nov 23, 2014 08:53
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So I didn't drive my 2014 Mazda 3 for about 2 days in sub zero (c) temperatures. I started it up yesterday and it sputtered to life and had a really rough sounding engine idle for a short time. There was also black smoke. Is this normal? The problem didn't repeat after that. It reminded me a lot of how old school airplane engines started before they spooled up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJ_RSCw8v7U&t=62s Kraftwerk fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 23, 2014 19:26
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Kraftwerk posted:So I didn't drive my 2014 Mazda 3 for about 2 days in sub zero (c) temperatures. I started it up yesterday and it sputtered to life and had a really rough sounding engine idle for a short time. There was also black smoke. Is this normal? The problem didn't repeat after that. It reminded me a lot of how old school airplane engines started before they spooled up. I believe all the Skyactiv Mazdas do this to warm up at idle. Mine definitely does. It stops as soon as you put it in gear.
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Nov 23, 2014 21:43
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Pretty much every computer managed engine runs pig rich when its cold and still in open-loop mode, since until the O2 sensors warm up it cannot accurately adjust the A/FR so it just dumps more fuel than the engine could possibly need. This explains the black smoke. As far as the lovely idle, that's likely because the Skyactivs are high(er) compression and will run worse than a normal engine when cold.
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Nov 24, 2014 00:12
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Apparently my problems/noise are all from the tires. 35k miles on them. Dealer said I needed new tires, service place down the road called bullshit. I was informed it was the worn tires making the noise and that the rear shocks were bad, which was causing the wear. I haven't replaced the shocks yet, but I did check out the tires and it was obvious once I looked at the inside and noticed terrible chopping. It looked exactly like this:  Replacing the tires fixed the noise. I would check the inside of your tires and see if there's any uneven wear. I know you said you rotated often though, so maybe that's not it.
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Nov 24, 2014 16:24
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Thanks, I will go take a look at mine later today to see what I can find. What tires did you end up replacing yours with? I figure to run mine a while longer, 35k seems awfully low to replace if traction/tread, etc is still good. I'd like to hope for less than 90 dB inside but I doubt tires alone will take care of that. I probably need to rotate my tires again, actually (I doubt they did that when they did my alignment unless that's standard and I just don't know about it). The only difference thus far after the alignment is the steering feels a bit looser and the noise is the same except it sounds like more on the front tires now.
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Nov 24, 2014 17:51
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B!G_$W@NG@ posted:Thanks, I will go take a look at mine later today to see what I can find. What tires did you end up replacing yours with?
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Nov 24, 2014 18:02
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I don't like to push poo poo on here, but if any of you are looking for a winter set, I've got a set of 17" Gen1 Snowflakes with TPMS sensors wearing General Altimax Arctics for sale. I used them my '10 'speed3 for two seasons but they'll fit any 3. Plenty of tread left and wheels are in good shape aside from one with a significant scrape. Don't have pics but they'll go up on the Delaware craigslist later tonight. Let me know if anyone is interested! $400
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Nov 25, 2014 21:01
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What's the thickness of a new OEM front rotor for the MS3? My pads need to be replaced for sure, would like to know if I have enough rotor to remachine them rather than get new ones.
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Nov 26, 2014 01:34
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Are they vibrating at all? If not I wouldn't bother. Minimum thickness is 28mm.
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Nov 26, 2014 02:32
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No vibration, and min thickness from the service manual is 23mm. 23.8 if you've had it resurfaced. I wanted to know the width of the new rotor so I could figure out my percentage, because the dealer didn't write it down. I figured I'd resurface if I was 50% or above. e: I'm not. At about 25% condition if the one spec I found is right and OEM thickness is 25mm. Phy fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 05:21
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Yeah I typo'd the 28. 23 is right for sure. Unless there is some damage to the surface or they're vibrating, machining them isn't necessary. Just burning away good rotor.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:27
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Well it's a year in and I want to fix the ground loop issue on my 2009's 3's stock stereo. I'm reading that it's as simple as grounding the HU to the cigarette lighter I'm using to power my iPhone. Sound right? The other alternative is a ground loop isolator but I'm reading that it can affect audio quality. I'm adept enough to run some wire through the console trim if that's the case.
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Dec 3, 2014 01:30
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If you're using the stock stereo (and I'm assuming stock speakers) you aren't going to degrade the audio signal substantially enough to notice with a ground loop isolator.
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Dec 3, 2014 02:19
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Geoj posted:If you're using the stock stereo (and I'm assuming stock speakers) you aren't going to degrade the audio signal substantially enough to notice with a ground loop isolator. This. The only problems I had with an isolator were due to the 1/8" jacks on the isolator itself failing.
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Dec 3, 2014 02:34
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Oh OK, sounds good then. I'm all stock. Thanks guys.
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Dec 3, 2014 02:37
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