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stevobob posted:
Plus you are supposed to loosen bolt 2 first and then unscrew the long bolt to take out tension. Doing it the way that picture says is a really good way to break those things. jamal fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Dec 14, 2014 |
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Dec 14, 2014 19:01
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Wow, I didn't even realise the picture's caption was wrong. I just grabbed the first one I could find on google. I changed the a/c belt too, and it has a similar lock bolt/tension bolt setup, but I took it back off in case I needed to move it (the untensioned alternator drops down and sits against the a/c belt). I have a solar charger in the windshield hooked up to the battery to top it off over the next couple of days just in case.
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Dec 14, 2014 19:30
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Yeah I'd guess the most common cause of a broken tensioner is not loosening the bolt first and then cranking on the adjuster.
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Dec 14, 2014 21:32
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TheFrailNinja posted:So my 06 outback (211k miles) has been humming and humming since I bought it at 202k. Tonight I finally got around to dumping the ATF and refilling it, hopefully that should buy me enough time to get the money together for a new transmission, if not a whole new (turbo) drivetrain. I overfilled it, but I bought a siphon so I’m gonna pull some out tomorrow. I read that it will generally drop 5 quarts (of 9.8 total) through the drain plug, but I had no way of measuring it and just kept dumping fluid in. It took 7 quarts before I thought “something’s not right, here…" The old fluid was complete poo poo- just reddish brown junk with a few gummy bits floating around. I also ran seafoam through it and put in a new PCV valve (was all clogged and lovely) and a new air filter (just filled with bugs and poo poo) and tomorrow I’m slapping in a new serpentine belt idler pulley because it’s loving screaming. All in all, I’m hoping it drives like a whole different car. I can already tell the throttle response is better. If it still has a low idle after my next oil change and a few dozen more miles for the ECU to "re-learn”, I’m gonna see if I can’t find a vacuum leak. Then I’ll be terrorizing empty, snowy parking lots for at least 2-3 more months. Update: Diff is still humming like a bitch, throttle response still poor and transmission shifts like a barrel half-filled with water. Is it normal for there to be a half second gap between stepping on the throttle and hearing an actual response from the engine? Every time I step on it, it goes “ch- vrummm, ch- vrummmm”. Is that the throttle body opening?
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Dec 14, 2014 22:24
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I'm considering buying a used car next year, and 2010+ 2.5i Outbacks are on my short list of potential cars. Are there any common issues these cars have that a used car should have had maintenance on?
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Dec 15, 2014 00:57
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Another newbie question regarding my '05 Outback. I was reading through the manual and it said that I should be putting in 87-grade gas in, rather than the base 85-grade. True? False? What's the deal here?
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Dec 15, 2014 02:41
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That's probably where the motor can fully advance it's timing for the most power on the stock tune. I'd keep putting the cheap stuff in, it won't be a noticeable difference on a non turbo motor.
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Dec 15, 2014 04:14
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The Rat posted:Another newbie question regarding my '05 Outback. I was reading through the manual and it said that I should be putting in 87-grade gas in, rather than the base 85-grade. True? False? What's the deal here? Do you live at elevation?
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Dec 15, 2014 04:26
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Colorado, so yeah. About 4880 feet. And yeah non-turbo motor.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:15
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The Rat posted:Colorado, so yeah. About 4880 feet. And yeah non-turbo motor. The 87 might be an idea if you're at altitude like that because it prevents your motor from pinging due to low O2 pressures in the ambient gas.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:17
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The Rat posted:Colorado, so yeah. About 4880 feet. And yeah non-turbo motor. At 5000+ feet, the effective octane is improved. That said, I'd stick with the manual. I also don't have much faith in subaru's knock sensors.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:18
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Is Regular gas still 85 in the states? Regular is 87 up here. Hm. According to Wikipedia the mountain states sell 85 as regular due to the elevation.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:45
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In australia, our regular is 91 and our premium is 98 although you can get e85 at a lot of places now.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:48
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DrakeriderCa posted:Is Regular gas still 85 in the states? Regular is 87 up here. Yeah, it's only elevation states. The rest of us are 87 for base.
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Dec 15, 2014 06:55
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:In australia, our regular is 91 and our premium is 98 although you can get e85 at a lot of places now.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:17
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What is the general consensus on the most comfortable drop-in seats for a 99 Forester? After driving for 7 hours total in it yesterday my lower back was in agony.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:18
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I've done a couple of 1200 mile trips with 02-03 wrx seats and they are fine for me. My only issue with them is that they are slightly higher up than I would like.
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Dec 15, 2014 07:40
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nm posted:Our octane ratings are different than yours RON v. MON RON vs AKI  91 RON = 87 AKI, 98 RON = 93 AKI Although in australia, you have to barter your fuel from fortified survivor settlements with stuff you found in the wasteland, or at the very least steal it from roving gangs, although that was the 80s. I've only seen previews for the latest documentary on australia, but it doesn't look like things have gotten any better.
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Dec 15, 2014 08:14
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I use my personal army of kangaroos to steal it from my neighbours and bring it back in their pouches. I don't even have to get up so it works well for me.
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Dec 15, 2014 09:16
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TheFrailNinja posted:Update: Diff is still humming like a bitch, throttle response still poor and transmission shifts like a barrel half-filled with water. Is it normal for there to be a half second gap between stepping on the throttle and hearing an actual response from the engine? Every time I step on it, it goes “ch- vrummm, ch- vrummmm”. Is that the throttle body opening? No, that sounds more like your trans is slipping or something. Don't know that anyone here will be much help with the auto trans other than "something's wrong" - but you already knew that. Even the dealers in my experience don't do much in the way of diagnostics of specific issues. More just "Yeah trans is bad, replace".
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Dec 15, 2014 13:53
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Terrible Robot posted:What is the general consensus on the most comfortable drop-in seats for a 99 Forester? After driving for 7 hours total in it yesterday my lower back was in agony. The heated leather outback seats I have in my wagon are the best I've found for road trips. I have back issues and the heat and the lumbar adjust keep me comfortable. The bolstering sucks though. 02-03 wrx seats are just okay. Good bolstering, decent comfort, but the lack of lumbar on mine made them uncomfortable after anything more than 2 hours. I dont really know about the forester offerings because I've never owned one, but most impreza / legacy junk should bolt in from the late 90s, early 00s, only difference is height of the seats.
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Dec 15, 2014 15:01
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jamal posted:With the radiator and fans out you have quite a bit of room. You can do the belt by just by pulling the fan but you'll want to change the waterpump (use OEM!) so it's got to get drained anyway. Here's my process for the belt: Thanks! Was the OEM comment meant for the water pump or the whole thing? I was looking at the Gates kit on Amazon for the timing belt and getting an OEM water pump if I'm reading your post right.
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Dec 15, 2014 16:04
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Slow is Fast posted:The heated leather outback seats I have in my wagon are the best I've found for road trips. I have back issues and the heat and the lumbar adjust keep me comfortable. Yeah I have regular cloth outback seats but the adjustable lumbar support is great. I drove across the country in four 10 hours days a couple months ago and never had any back problems. Separate question: is there a a go-to site for ordering touch up paint? I have a pretty decent scratch in my hood and don't have a garage to repaint it properly or the ~$500 to have a body shop to do it.
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Dec 15, 2014 18:21
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Speaking of touch up paint, anyone know what color the 2012+ Impreza wheels are? NASIOC has some recommendations that involve mixing paint from other brands.
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Dec 15, 2014 21:33
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FogHelmut posted:Speaking of touch up paint, anyone know what color the 2012+ Impreza wheels are? Is my eyesight that bad or is the picture too small? I don't see any obvious paint damage on the wheel and honestly it looks the same as my '14 Outback which isn't painted at all and you should clean your wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner.
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Dec 16, 2014 01:07
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What springrates do you guys run? I'm looking at getting MCA blues, they normally recommend 7 front/rear kg/mm but I mentioned that I'm going to Mt Kosciusko in February and asked about height/damper adjustment, and the MCA guys exact words were:quote:Spring wise I normally go 7kg front 5kg rear for street cars ,but you might want to go 6kg/4kg? Would still be improved handling I'd say. I havn't personally driven 6/4 on the GD subaru, I have on the GC but they are a bit ligher. But basically it should just help soak up the bumps a bit, not a massive change, but just a bit softer. My only concern with the camping trip is possible gravel roads with 2-3 passengers and all their poo poo, and the fact that there and back is 32 hours not including breaks. I figure if I soften the damper and increase the ride height it shouldn't be too back breaking, should I do the 7/5? Or the 6/4? I am looking at doing some track stuff in the future and I like to have fun in the mountains, but I still need it to be driveable day to day.
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Dec 16, 2014 11:30
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I'd go with 6/4 myself.
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Dec 16, 2014 14:42
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Totally TWISTED posted:Is my eyesight that bad or is the picture too small? I don't see any obvious paint damage on the wheel and honestly it looks the same as my '14 Outback which isn't painted at all and you should clean your wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. Not my wheel, just a general picture of one from the internet.
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Dec 16, 2014 16:26
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6/4 is too soft a rear spring and too big of a split front to rear IMO. 6/5 would be better if you don't want the 7k springs, but with a good damper like the MCAs, 7k isn't going to seem as bad. Also, having the damper set at the right place is going to provide the best ride. Softening from there just lets the bounce around more and stiffening makes it harsh but not any faster.
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Dec 16, 2014 19:28
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Well, that squeaking I thought was a sway bar or blown strut turned out to just be a loose nut on the strut mount. So that's a relief. Are valve cover gaskets a bitch to do? They seem like a bitch to do. Mine are leaking, and since I need to replace the plugs and wires anyway, I figure I should get them done.
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Dec 18, 2014 02:58
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Apparently they change the spring for you for $50, and MCA is based a few hours from where i live, so I figure I can go there and have them change the springs and then drive back home if I ever wanted to do that, and then I have a chance to test it out on the way home on the highway/logging roads ( )
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Dec 18, 2014 03:20
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Well, now I'm noticing a popping when I make sharp turns. Pretty much just when parking, the wheel has to be at least 180 degrees over. Googling suggests lower control arm bushings. What am I looking for down there to see if it's right? Kind of pissed that the mechanic didn't notice it yesterday, since they were looking in that same wheel well.
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Dec 18, 2014 17:11
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JDM Momo wheel from 93 Subaru Legacy. Had it dyed blue and it was finished today, very happy with the results!
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Dec 19, 2014 23:41
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Front LCA bushings on an '05-09 Legacy GT. Are they as big of a pain as I'm expecting them to be? Any must-have tools to make them easier? I do have a 20 ton press, and an assortment of materials and cups to press things like bearings. I'm looking into doing Whiteline bushings in mine, and a buddy wants me to put stock-type bushings in his. I'm just looking to save myself some time and hassle and make sure I grab anything I might possibly need before the day comes.
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Dec 20, 2014 03:51
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Whitelines, I get a pretty good deal on them (send me a pm with your zip code). You need a very specific press tool size to fit on the very small steel lip of the control arm and one for the bushing but otherwise it's the same as pressing any other bushing. And tell your friend to get whitelines too because the stock ones are just going to break again. Plus shipping is the same for 2 sets as it is for 1.
jamal fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 20, 2014 |
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Dec 20, 2014 05:09
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I put in STi bushings, firmer than stock but without much compromise in ride quality which was a concern. Took the control arms to a local machine shop and they had them done in 20 minutes for their minimum charge of $30.
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Dec 20, 2014 13:24
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This is kinda urgent, does anyone know if the rails for GD Imprezas are the same as 98 liberties? I'm pretty sure GD and GC Imprezas have the same rails, and I know a guy with 05 lib who has 05 STI seats that bolted straight in
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Dec 21, 2014 07:06
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Yeah I have have GD seats and rails in my 98 Legacy. They sit a bit high though.
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Dec 21, 2014 07:43
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What does a purge valve on a 2004 wrx do? It's the part located next to the turbo inlet pipe. I snapped it putting the engine back in. It's part number 42084fe010. Can I just plug the vacuum lines until my replacement come in ?
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Dec 22, 2014 16:39
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:41 |
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daslog posted:What does a purge valve on a 2004 wrx do? It's the part located next to the turbo inlet pipe. I snapped it putting the engine back in. It's part number 42084fe010. It's for evap. IIRC it's a relatively expensive part and they get brittle with engine bay heat. You can plug it, you will just throw a code the next time you go to fill up when it tries to run the evap cycle.
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Dec 22, 2014 16:41
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