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Slavvy posted:Tools are always worth having. This is the truth.
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Dec 18, 2014 03:16
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DIY is (almost) always the first option to go for; most mechanical jobs have a small startup cost associated in consumables or cheap specialized kit. But if you don't have a gaggle of amateur motorcycle mechanic buddies or a hanger stuffed with two wheelers then it is real easy to buy poo poo you'll only ever need once. Doing forks is something that comes along once every many years and scratched fork tubes can be costly to replace.
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Dec 18, 2014 12:19
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Armchair Calvinist posted:^^ DRZ400SM or KLR650. You could definitely handle either. http://abbastands.co.uk/product-detail.asp?item=superbike-package-2&pid=43 goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Dec 18, 2014 |
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Dec 18, 2014 12:25
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KARMA! posted:DIY is (almost) always the first option to go for; most mechanical jobs have a small startup cost associated in consumables or cheap specialized kit. But if you don't have a gaggle of amateur motorcycle mechanic buddies or a hanger stuffed with two wheelers then it is real easy to buy poo poo you'll only ever need once. Doing forks is something that comes along once every many years and scratched fork tubes can be costly to replace. I got into bikes half a decade ago and I've done fork seals about seven times (I think, might be more). When I'm buying a bike I can often get one for cheaper than usual by finding one that has blown fork seals or a rooted chain, safe in the knowledge that I have the tools to do these jobs. I don't have any friends who can work on vehicles worth a drat and I've never owned more than two bikes at once, one of them usually so lovely that I don't bother working on it. The tools usually don't cost more than a hundred bucks or so and have more than paid for themselves by now, both through being able to haggle down bike prices and through saving me the expense of taking my bike to a shop. Not to mention that most people who ride subscribe to the same mentality as you so when something needs fixing, they're keen to get me to do it for a box of piss or a favour instead of paying for the work at a shop. My situation with chains was that I bought a bike with a hosed chain, told myself it wasn't worth buying the tool and sent it to a shop. Then I bought another bike and did the same thing. Then by the third bike it occurred to me that I should've just bought the damned tools. Then I did three more chains.
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Dec 18, 2014 19:09
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KARMA! posted:it is real easy to buy poo poo you'll only ever need once.
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Dec 18, 2014 19:25
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Another avenue that hasn't been brought up is that you can make a lot of weird or custom tools very easily and cheaply now through non-traditional means - I 3D printed a fork seal driver on a Makerbot I had access to(ABS material, not PLA) and it cost a fraction of what the commercial tool would, plus has proven durable enough to do several other jobs and remain rock-solid. Weird stuff like the D-shaped screw heads Honda puts on their carb screws, seal drivers, etc - just take 5 minutes to learn Sketchup and print that poo poo out at your local library(a surprising amount of libraries both public and academic are getting 3D printers and the like) or Makerspace instead of spending $80 on a likely one-use tool. For example, the bit(and just the bit) to handle those Honda carb screws costs about $60 last time I checked - you might use 2 grams of material to produce it, and the average cost is about $1/gram from a public institution, $5/gram from somewhere like Shapeways or Home Depot. Either way that's peanuts in tool money, plus you don't have to wait a week for it to show up on your door. This obviously wouldn't work for something like a flywheel holder or a gear puller, but oddball poo poo like that is the perfect candidate to just have printed out.
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Dec 18, 2014 20:54
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Or you just modify lovely old tools you got from the fleamarket/a garage sale/a relative. It really isn't that difficult to make/circumvent the majority of 'special tools' on bikes because they're all so laughably simple in design.
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Dec 18, 2014 22:14
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The "special tool" for getting at the Buell's intake manifold screws is an allen key, but instead of being bent 90 degrees, it's like 60. If I knew that before I ordered it, I would have ruined a Harbor Freight allen key for the job.
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Dec 19, 2014 01:59
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clutchpuck posted:The "special tool" for getting at the Buell's intake manifold screws is an allen key, but instead of being bent 90 degrees, it's like 60. If I knew that before I bought the bike, I wouldn't have bought it. What a normal person would say.
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Dec 19, 2014 03:03
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clutchpuck posted:The "special tool" for getting at the Buell's intake manifold screws is an allen key, but instead of being bent 90 degrees, it's like 60. If I knew that before I ordered it, I would have ruined a Harbor Freight allen key for the job. Depending on the access you could just use a ballend hex key those things are awesome
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Dec 19, 2014 03:13
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You always paste that link when replying to people who don't live in Europe. Here's what the prices on those look like over here: http://bluestreakracing.ca/stands-and-trailer-restraints/abba/abba-front-and-rear-superbike-package.html?___SID=U (their North American distributor is in Canada, so those of us in the states also get to pay to have it shipped across the border as well!). A used pitbull stand off craigslist (or a brand new lift from Harbor Freight) is less than half that price. Militant Lesbian fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 05:25
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Ever since I reinstalled everything and have been riding again, my bike's trip meters and clock keep reseting every time I turn off the bike for more than five seconds. Suggestions for what it might be?
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Dec 19, 2014 05:25
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Pope Mobile posted:Ever since I reinstalled everything and have been riding again, my bike's trip meters and clock keep reseting every time I turn off the bike for more than five seconds. Suggestions for what it might be? Battery line to your cluster isn't connected.
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Dec 19, 2014 05:28
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I was going to have to tear it all out again anyway. But ugh.
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Dec 19, 2014 05:30
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you should have two. one for switched power, another for constant power. It probably goes through the same multiplug... unless its something aftermarket.
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Dec 19, 2014 06:03
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Slavvy posted:What a normal person would say. Look, I just brought my RX-7 home today. The Buell is the least of my problems.
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Dec 19, 2014 09:00
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I'm stumped, maybe one of you can point me in a direction. '96 CBR600, wasn't starting when I bought it a month-ish ago. According to the PO it had run fine, then sat parked in the garage for 2 months after which it wouldn't start. I've pulled and cleaned the carbs (*very* thoroughly), replaced the battery with a fresh Yuasa (it lives on a tender now) and just replaced the spark plugs today. I tested the plugs by grounding to the engine so I know it's getting spark, and if I open the float bowl drains after I've cranked it a few times they'll drain fuel so I know it's getting at least that far. I can also smell unburnt fuel from the exhaust after I've tried starting it. I'm at the limits of what I know to do with this thing. Any suggestions?
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Dec 20, 2014 00:46
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If you have fuel and spark that basically leaves air and the compression of it. Check valves and compression test? Also try starting it with the throttle WFO a few times
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Dec 20, 2014 00:53
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dreggory posted:
A teaspoon of oil in each cylinder. It could be that it's not getting enough compression.
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Dec 20, 2014 01:01
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cursedshitbox posted:you should have two. one for switched power, another for constant power. It probably goes through the same multiplug... unless its something aftermarket. Must be that. I had to take everything out to reroute the wiring and must have messed something up.
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Dec 20, 2014 02:42
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dreggory posted:I'm stumped, maybe one of you can point me in a direction. Are you using the choke? Are the ignition coil leads around the right way?
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Dec 20, 2014 07:15
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HotCanadianChick posted:You always paste that link when replying to people who don't live in Europe. Here's what the prices on those look like over here: They're more expensive than a paddock stand and adaptors here too. The point is that that's $300 for the whole kit which is much easier to use than stands, as well as far more flexible, because a paddock stand and an adaptor only lets you work on one end of the bike at once - this holds both ends up at the same time, and with a fairly cheap part even lets you take the whole rear suspension off. Basically don't think of it as a paddock stand, think of it as the meatiest centre stand you've ever seen.
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Dec 20, 2014 11:30
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dreggory posted:I'm stumped, maybe one of you can point me in a direction. It always needed the choke full on to start. The last half inch or so of the choke is stiffer than the rest, and it can fool you into thinking its full on when it isnt
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Dec 20, 2014 14:17
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Day Man posted:It always needed the choke full on to start. The last half inch or so of the choke is stiffer than the rest, and it can fool you into thinking its full on when it isnt I've definitely got the choke full on when I try to start it, and made sure when I put the carbs back together that 'choke full on' was, in fact, pulling the choke all the way out. There are a handful of starting procedures detailed in the service manual for different starting conditions and I've run through those multiple times. choke full on, no throttle...choke off, full throttle (for a flooded engine)...choke on, full throttle...etc. Ignition coils were never touched so they *should* still be correctly connected, and I can't imagine how sitting for two months could result in loss of compression.
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Dec 20, 2014 16:22
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So turns out I lost my MSF card. The school that issued it is out of business. The DMV has no record of it or my previous M endorsement. Would I get in trouble if I just photoshopped a new one? I don't know how they would check it. I should probably just pay for a permit and take the test again.
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Dec 20, 2014 21:44
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Does your insurance company have record of it? Even so, just having taken an MSF doesn't automatically give you a license class for a bike, does it? Don't you still have to be tested?
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Dec 21, 2014 00:50
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dreggory posted:I've definitely got the choke full on when I try to start it, and made sure when I put the carbs back together that 'choke full on' was, in fact, pulling the choke all the way out. Have you tried partial choke? I can't imagine the compression went bad, either. Sorry it's been more trouble than expected!  My new one has been, too. Its in the shop now, I'm hoping they can figure it out.
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Dec 21, 2014 00:59
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slidebite posted:Does your insurance company have record of it? In Texas you have to pass the MSF test and then take a written/eye exam at the DMV and you're done. There's actually no way to get an M endorsement without taking the MSF since they don't test it at the DMV.
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Dec 21, 2014 01:11
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slidebite posted:Does your insurance company have record of it? Well, I can't access my Geico profile because I haven't had a policy with them for over than 6 months. In CO, you just show up at the DMV, show them your MSF card, pay for a new license and you get the M which is for 2 and 3-wheel bikes. They do the driving test at the end of the course. If you don't have an MSF card you can take the written test to get a permit, then take the driving test at the DMV. I don't have a bike right now though, which is annoying. My friend's MB50 needs a lot of work before it gets running again, and my other friend's Honda also needs some work and he lives a couple suburbs over, so not super convenient. It's only $225 to take the MSF course again, which sucks, but might be the best way to do it. I'm not sure when me and a friend would have the same time off to get down to the DMV.
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Dec 21, 2014 02:10
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Hit up another class and explain your situation, they might just let you test for less money or something.
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Dec 21, 2014 02:19
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nsaP posted:Hit up another class and explain your situation, they might just let you test for less money or something. Man, why didn't I think of that? I found a MOST program in town that offers 3rd party testing for $50. I need a permit but they'll let me borrow one of the trainer bikes to take the driving test.
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Dec 21, 2014 02:23
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Alright, Imma need help with my new monstrous SV. It has no speedo sensor, PO didn't have time to finish the front end swap. It's a lil more complicated than a regular swap, cause it's a 1k wheel/rotor and 750 calipers/forks, plus I think a front triple off a 600 (all gsxrs). I'm poo poo with electricals. He said something about needing a hall sensor and 8 neodymium magnets (rotor has 10 holes) and some extra wire lengths for hooking the poo poo into the wiring system for the sv (which is all stock). I'll ask svrider too, but I prefer asking forums where people can spell properly first. Halp, how to??!?
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Dec 21, 2014 02:23
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M42 posted:Alright, Imma need help with my new monstrous SV. It has no speedo sensor, PO didn't have time to finish the front end swap. It's a lil more complicated than a regular swap, cause it's a 1k wheel/rotor and 750 calipers/forks, plus I think a front triple off a 600 (all gsxrs). I'm poo poo with electricals. He said something about needing a hall sensor and 8 neodymium magnets (rotor has 10 holes) and some extra wire lengths for hooking the poo poo into the wiring system for the sv (which is all stock). I'll ask svrider too, but I prefer asking forums where people can spell properly first. Halp, how to??!? http://www.svrider.com/forum/printthread.php?t=223785 That should pretty much get you set. Read through it a few times, post up if you have any questions. Basic summary: Mount hall effect sensor, mount the magnets into the rotors, wire hall effect sensor into the stock wiring harness, ideally by hacking up the stock wiring of the original sensor, so you don't cut the factory harness. Z3n fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Dec 21, 2014 |
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Dec 21, 2014 03:18
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Get a decent mount for your phone/GPS and use a speed app 
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Dec 21, 2014 03:34
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slidebite posted:Get a decent mount for your phone/GPS and use a speed app I have a lovely Android phone and a Bluetooth GPS receiver on my bike. I use it for a lap timer type setup but you can definitely use it for speed. I sure as poo poo wouldn't have my normal phone used for that though. 
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Dec 21, 2014 04:16
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slidebite posted:Get a decent mount for your phone/GPS and use a speed app Waze is great for this, spedometer on the lower right corner (you have to specifically turn it on) plus you get traffic, construction and police presence/speed trap information. I use my regular phone (A Nexus 5), a ram-mount X grip, and a bettery tender/USB power converter. (it plugs into my battery tender when i'm not riding, otherwise i plug in a USB power-port.) X-grip is secure as hell, i've had it unprotected from wind at up to 90mph and it's solid.
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Dec 21, 2014 06:58
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nitrogen posted:Waze is great for this, spedometer on the lower right corner (you have to specifically turn it on) plus you get traffic, construction and police presence/speed trap information. Counterpoint: My x-grip almost tossed my phone off the bike at a whopping 45mph the first time I used it. I'm still not entirely sure why it did that, but I haven't had time to put it back on the bike and mess around some empty street where it won't get run over. e: I take it back. I have no idea why it came loose the first time (I was OCD as poo poo about how it was placed on the mount), but I did just now screw around the less populated side of town for half an hour with it on. It never even moved despite doing 90 on a DRZ and popping over a few curbs. I'll test it out some more when it's not 4am and I'm less likely to get arrested. Just be very very careful with them I guess? The only thing I changed was that I set it horizontally instead of vertically. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Dec 21, 2014 |
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Dec 21, 2014 10:14
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Thanks a ton man! This is a great jumping-off point. I'd considered just getting a gps, but it may be a PITA to pass inspection and my odo also won't work.
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Dec 21, 2014 15:52
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M42 posted:Thanks a ton man! This is a great jumping-off point. I'd considered just getting a gps, but it may be a PITA to pass inspection and my odo also won't work. You know some people buy working motorcycles that they can just ride when they buy them. You may want to consider doing that in the future.
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Dec 21, 2014 17:22
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M42 posted:Thanks a ton man! This is a great jumping-off point. I'd considered just getting a gps, but it may be a PITA to pass inspection and my odo also won't work. You might could also consider a Trailtech Vapor too. There's like a million different models, so IDK if there's one that works with the SV, but I installed one on my EX250 and it was pretty easy.
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Dec 21, 2014 17:43
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