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Aexo posted:We're heading into winter in Indiana. A few years back we got three inches of ice in one day, and I think last year we got about a foot of snow on a single night. I don't plan on being a super rally car driver, but I do need to get out sometimes. All seasons are a crummy compromise, and still won't be great in snow. Get 16" steelies with proper winter tires (which is typically cheaper than a set of 18" tires alone), and a set of nice summers for your 18" wheels.
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Dec 20, 2014 15:42
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Speaking of infotainment system earlier in the thread, I just updated it myself to version 33 in my 3. Was pretty straightforward.
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Dec 20, 2014 20:21
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Rhyno posted:Screw that, hermit life for me. It doesn't hurt that I live 5 minutes from work and 8 minutes from my primary grocery store. What part of the state are you in? South east of Broad Ripple. I don't think I have met you at the Indy goon meets. We should prolly get another one rolling soon, it's been a while. opengl128 posted:All seasons are a crummy compromise, and still won't be great in snow. Get 16" steelies with proper winter tires (which is typically cheaper than a set of 18" tires alone), and a set of nice summers for your 18" wheels. Hmm.. Maybe with the tax refund...
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Dec 20, 2014 22:02
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Speaking of infotainment system earlier in the thread, I just updated it myself to version 33 in my 3. Was pretty straightforward. Is there an online guide for this? My google skills are failing me.
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Dec 21, 2014 05:59
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Alighieri posted:Is there an online guide for this? My google skills are failing me. Yea, a rather sparse wiki here - http://www.mazda3hacks.com/doku.php Some dude on reddit linked the actual firmware here - http://www.reddit.com/r/mazda/comments/2jnh97/2015_infotainment_system_hacks/ When I went to the dealership to get this done it took them like an hour an a half, only took me about twenty minutes.
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Dec 21, 2014 14:13
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Aexo posted:South east of Broad Ripple. I don't think I have met you at the Indy goon meets. We should prolly get another one rolling soon, it's been a while. I'm in Fort Wayne and I have a serious hatred of the capitol so I stay away unless it's required.
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Dec 21, 2014 23:21
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Do any of y'all know how to remove the trim along the windshield to get to the interior air intake? I want to spray something on the AC coils to get this musty smell out of the air ducts, but I'm not sure how to get it off. Car is an 09 MS3, so any knowledge of the first gen 3 should do. 
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Dec 26, 2014 20:39
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Could it be your cabin air filter? Changed mime out and it got rid of this nasty wet dog smell.
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Dec 26, 2014 21:59
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I'll probably replace it at the same time. I changed it probably 2 years ago, so a new one wouldn't hurt. It's just such a PITA.
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Dec 26, 2014 22:05
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MetaJew posted:It's just such a PITA.
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Dec 26, 2014 22:18
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Yeah it's annoying but I didn't think it was that bad, I only bloodied my fingers once!
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Dec 26, 2014 22:25
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But back to the point of discussion: how do I remove the cabin air intake cover?
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Dec 26, 2014 22:39
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Anyone know if this strip here is easy to replace? (stock photo from wikipedia) I was kind of aggressive with the ice scraper last year and chipped gouges into it because it's kind of brittle when cold I guess. It's been like this for a year now so it's not killing me, I just keep forgetting to ask. I think there's actually two strips, the gouges are in the upper I think. I should go take a photo of it when it's not pitch black out. 09 (1st gen) Mazda 3 hatch.
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Dec 27, 2014 02:01
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MetaJew posted:But back to the point of discussion: how do I remove the cabin air intake cover? No idea, but the cabin filter might be the issue. I'd replace that first.
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Dec 27, 2014 19:41
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Is anyone aware of an aftermarket ECU that works on the 08+ Mazdaspeed3 or CX-7 motors? I may have acquired a low miles pull, minus ECU and wiring. I'd like to use it in our Exocet, but I don't think the stock ECU will play nice with everything else gone and a nice exhaust.
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Dec 30, 2014 05:39
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Hello Mazda crew I bought a 2011 Mazda 3 s Grand Touring, 28k miles. The only Mazda 3 hatch in the twin cities available with a stick shift and without a lovely touch screen on the dash. The clutch is super light, even lighter than my Honda. I'm also surprised how quiet it is. I have to look at the tach to verify it's actually running. Ordering winter wheels and tires now. Grey is the boringest color, so we're going to look into a wrap of some sort. After I sell the '04 Accord which the dealer offered me $3500 for ha ha ha ha ha
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Jan 3, 2015 23:27
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Crosspost from the Stupid Questions thread: Really stupid question. I am working on a buddies 2003 3.0L Mazda 6, and I cant see any coolant at all in the reservoir tank. But hosed if I can find any sort of fill line at all. The tank is just...bare. I feel really stupid but I have no idea how much coolant to add. Cant seem to find anything online about it. Anyone with this car have any input? e: Scratch that, I think I found it in the owners manual online. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jan 4, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 00:39
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I'm planning on changing my spark plugs this weekend on my 1st gen MS3 that just ticked over 50,000 miles. Hopefully it will help to smooth out the idle that seems like it's occasionally missing very slightly. Is there anything I should know about doing this? I've never removed the TMIC before or done much of anything else other than oil and transmission fluid changes. I'd also like to flush and change the brake fluid and coolant in the very near future. Are the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs shared, or is the clutch fluid reservoir just nearly hidden behind the battery box? It seems like the clutch fluid should be extremely easy to flush since the slave cylinder is right in the front of the engine bay and pretty easy to get at. Would it be wise to go ahead and do this at the same time? Edit: While we're at it, say I wanted to replace the front pads with something that's less dusty than the stock pad but still has good bite. What would y'all go with? Also, where's a good source for inexpensive front blanks? Rockauto, elsewhere? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 09:36
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MetaJew posted:I'd also like to flush and change the brake fluid and coolant in the very near future. Are the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs shared, or is the clutch fluid reservoir just nearly hidden behind the battery box? It seems like the clutch fluid should be extremely easy to flush since the slave cylinder is right in the front of the engine bay and pretty easy to get at. Would it be wise to go ahead and do this at the same time? Shared reservoir. And yes, good idea to periodically bleed the hydraulic system...while the clutch slave cylinder doesn't experience the same temperature cycle as the brake calipers brake fluid still absorbs moisture and should be changed periodically. MetaJew posted:Edit: While we're at it, say I wanted to replace the front pads with something that's less dusty than the stock pad but still has good bite. What would y'all go with? Also, where's a good source for inexpensive front blanks? Rockauto, elsewhere? I did the brakes on my brother's '08 last summer, I used Centric blanks from Amazon (free ground shipping if you have Prime) although you should be safe with whatever plain rotor you can find at the lowest price, and Centric Stoptech para-aramid pads from rock auto. I was fairly impressed with the pads, good initial bite and they're supposed to be good to 1400* F, fairly low dust compared to the stock pads.
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Jan 9, 2015 17:21
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I will second the Centric blank rotors - I warped the OEMs twice before the car hit 50k miles, but the Centrics never did all the way to 124k. I went with Hawk HPS pads. A little bit less initial bite than the OEM pads but sooooo much less dust.
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Jan 9, 2015 18:48
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MetaJew posted:I'm planning on changing my spark plugs this weekend on my 1st gen MS3 that just ticked over 50,000 miles. Hopefully it will help to smooth out the idle that seems like it's occasionally missing very slightly. I did this on my 2nd gen a few weeks ago. Once you get the TMIC off, it's just like changing the plugs on any other car. Note that if you're using NGK plugs, they specifically recommend not using antiseize compound on the threads.
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Jan 10, 2015 01:20
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Missed the bit about plugs - yeah just pop the TMIC off and you're most of the way there. Just make drat sure you tighten all of the hoses down and perhaps plan on replacing some of the clamps.
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Jan 10, 2015 04:11
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Awesome, the plugs seem easy enough. IOwnCalculus posted:I will second the Centric blank rotors - I warped the OEMs twice before the car hit 50k miles, but the Centrics never did all the way to 124k. I went with Hawk HPS pads. A little bit less initial bite than the OEM pads but sooooo much less dust. Geoj posted:Shared reservoir. And yes, good idea to periodically bleed the hydraulic system...while the clutch slave cylinder doesn't experience the same temperature cycle as the brake calipers brake fluid still absorbs moisture and should be changed periodically. Wow. Those are some cheap rotors. For some reason, though, I can't figure out how to enter the MS3 trim into Amazon, and I don't like how it says it fits the Mazda 3. I'll have to go find the dimensions or something to ease my fears of getting the wrong sized rotors. I used Hawk HPS pads on my 240sx with 300zx brakes and thought they were good, at the time. Can y'all compare the Centric Stoptech pads to Hawk HPS? About the most performance driving I've done is autocrossing, and I haven't even done that in probably 2 years. But if I can get both a great pad and one that's less dusty than the stock one, that'd be a great start.
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Jan 11, 2015 08:39
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MetaJew posted:Wow. Those are some cheap rotors. For some reason, though, I can't figure out how to enter the MS3 trim into Amazon, and I don't like how it says it fits the Mazda 3. I'll have to go find the dimensions or something to ease my fears of getting the wrong sized rotors. The ones I linked are the correct size, I looked up my previous order history on Amazon. When I initially bought them I cross-referenced the part numbers from rock auto - its actually smart to do this as often Amazon sells parts at the same price, and if you have Prime shipping is free. MetaJew posted:I used Hawk HPS pads on my 240sx with 300zx brakes and thought they were good, at the time. Can y'all compare the Centric Stoptech pads to Hawk HPS? About the most performance driving I've done is autocrossing, and I haven't even done that in probably 2 years. But if I can get both a great pad and one that's less dusty than the stock one, that'd be a great start. I never used Hawk HPS on my brother's MS3 but I did have a set on my Focus...I'd say they have very similar characteristics but the Stoptechs are significantly less dusty than HPS - actually in my experience Hawk HPS are on the high end of the spectrum as far as pad dust goes. Looking around on other car forums Stoptech para-aramid are highly regarded, on paper they have a higher temperature range in which they remain effective and are typically cheaper to boot. If you do an internet search be sure to specify "stoptech para-amarid" because Centric sells a number of different compound pads under the Stoptech name.
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Jan 12, 2015 02:25
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Got it! Thanks so much!
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Jan 12, 2015 02:30
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Got my wheels back after it was in a body shop over the holidays!  I got rear-ended during finals week by a (presumably texting) student so that had me bummed out a bit for the start of 2015.  Rear bumper and some guts underneath had to be replaced I guess, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out! I still dig my 8.5 year-old car. It's gonna pass 100,000 miles in the next week or two.  It's got a fresh clutch and is about to get some suspension bits replaced and maybe some fresh tires. Here's to another 100,000!  I just jinxed it, didn't I? Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Jan 12, 2015 |
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Jan 12, 2015 05:23
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I miss my baby. Remember kids, Drunk drivers suck and avoid them if possible 
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Jan 12, 2015 15:40
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9Um0bAcRNE
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Jan 19, 2015 19:36
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dude, that's my old car. i sold it this past june.
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Jan 23, 2015 20:01
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crazzy posted:dude, that's my old car. i sold it this past june. The current owner was posting up a storm about it on Facebook. He's kind of annoying. Is anyone running the Corksport rear motor mount? I have $230 in credit with them and I'd like to burn it off.
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Jan 26, 2015 00:21
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Rhyno posted:The current owner was posting up a storm about it on Facebook. He's kind of annoying. I run the JBR 88 duro. I lurk the MSF quite a bit and everyone really likes the Damond Motorsports mount. http://damondmotorsports.com/collections/motor-mounts/products/rear-motor-mount edit: And the CP-E stage 2 is probably the highest regarded overall.
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Jan 26, 2015 01:28
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This weekend I installed the Corksport solid shifter bushings and short shift plate on my 2013 MS3. The bushings were more of a pain in the rear end than I anticipated. Getting the steel insert out of the old rubber bushings was the trickiest part. Once that came out, it was easy to press the bushings through the bottom with a screwdriver. Placing the new bushings was annoying because you have to slide it under the shifter assembly, and I lost one when it slid under the carpet into the passenger footwell. Luckily I was able to shove my hand far enough under there to recover it. The shift plate was a breeze. I have the short ram intake, so I all I had to do was pop off the filter, pull the shift linkage off, unscrew the countweight, and put on the new shift plate. I set it to half way between min and max, and used the Corksport countweight. Shifts definitely feel shorter and notchier now, though I may try putting the much larger factory countweight back on to see how it changes the feel. I also have the race rear motor mount, but the weather turned on me before I could get to install it.
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Jan 27, 2015 02:02
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Anyone have suspension suggestions for a first-gen MS3? My brother has his tax return burning a hole in his pocket and the factory suspension on his car is starting to show its age at 60,000+ miles. He was going to get the corksport adjustable kit for $600 but I read some reviews that it can be a pain in the rear end to install. $600 (or so) is his budget for the whole job so coilovers are probably out. Suggestions?
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Feb 1, 2015 19:23
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Koni FSDs.
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Feb 1, 2015 19:40
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Koni fsd will ride close to stock, you can't use a lower spring with them. Koni yellow and swift springs are popular, and nice if you want to go a little lower and add adjustability. Keep mind you have to remove the rears to adjust, which is probably a pain in the rear end. People seem to like the bilstein b8's more than koni, they're non adjustable though. I'll probably be going with bilstein based on the reviews. Seem like a good compromise between the two.. don't have to worry about dialing them in and you can put a different spring on if you want. Remember if you go lower you'll need adjustable rear camber arms. Google Butt fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Feb 1, 2015 |
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Feb 1, 2015 19:50
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Has anyone put a remote starter in their Mazda 3 (1gen)? Trying to gauge whether this is a DIY or a DDIY. I've got an auto so I guess that's slightly less work or something.
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Feb 1, 2015 20:03
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Oh yeah, anyone need a jbr 80d pmm and tmm? They've been sitting here in the bubble wrap for months, decided I don't need the added nvh. Figured I'd check here first before I list them on eBay or something.
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Feb 1, 2015 20:27
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About time!!  http://jalopnik.com/2016-ford-focus-rs-this-is-your-320-hp-awd-monster-ha-1683323602
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Feb 3, 2015 15:14
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A very rad car, but there's no way I can justify a $40k Focus to myself...
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Feb 3, 2015 17:21
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Cygni posted:A very rad car, but there's no way I can justify a $40k Focus to myself... Has there been an official MSRP released yet? While I don't doubt that model scarcity will drive up dealer markups I can't see Ford having a $13,000 gap between the ST and RS.
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Feb 3, 2015 17:40
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