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Cool, I'll see what I can put together once I've finished this rose project. I'm kinda surprised nobody has really built any centralized resource other sites like than Anvilfire before, the scattered and often outdated info is one of the reasons I found it so hard to get started.
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Jan 8, 2015 00:44
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Element1290 posted:Hey everyone! Wondering if anyone here does any gunsmithing. What I'm curious about is having a couple holes drilled and tapped in the Mossberg Maverick 88 shotgun I just bought. It doesn't come with the holes neccessary to mount optics to the top of the receiver. Any ideas on how hard it would be to do it? I have access to a drill press, but no experience in metal work. What would I need to do something like this and what would I be getting myself into? Come to the holy land of TFR and ask in the DIY gun smithing thread. Someone there should be able to point you in the right direction.
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Jan 8, 2015 01:43
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Rime posted:I'm thinking of hosting a blacksmithing / metalworking specific wiki, since Wikipedia is more technical than necessary and there is a lot of useful information being lost as geocities era sites like Anvilfire shut down. Heck, even the OP here is mostly dead. some clamps, maybe layout fluid and some calipers, center punch, and the right size drill bit Eugene V. Dubstep fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jan 8, 2015 |
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Jan 8, 2015 03:36
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Rime posted:Cool, I'll see what I can put together once I've finished this rose project. I am convinced that you can either learn metal working or web design, but not both. Seriously though if there was something more useable that would be awesome.
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Jan 8, 2015 07:16
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MohawkSatan posted:Come to the holy land of TFR and ask in the DIY gun smithing thread. Someone there should be able to point you in the right direction. I didn't realize there was such a thread in TFR, thank you for the direction!
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Jan 8, 2015 22:25
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Element1290 posted:I didn't realize there was such a thread in TFR, thank you for the direction! No problem. I'm actually learning machining right now because of the fact I want to do gunsmithing professionally one day. Too bad its not a recognized trade in Canada, or I'd have gone straight into it.
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Jan 9, 2015 04:31
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Anyone know of where I can buy copper (or brass I guess) hex tubing in small quantities?
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Jan 9, 2015 05:21
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door Door door posted:Anyone know of where I can buy copper (or brass I guess) hex tubing in small quantities? How small are we talking? McMaster Carr has some: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hexagonal-tubing/=vdy0fx
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Jan 9, 2015 08:10
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The first rose draft is coming along nicely: How I formed the V on the sepals:  Bonus shot of a portion of my community labs metalworking area:  On the far side of the curtain is the forge & oxy rig, out of picture left is a row of various welders, and behind me is a couple grinders / sanders and a vertical bandsaw. TBH the full list of tools is too long to list, and the best part is that at $50/month it's cheaper than dirt. 
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Jan 9, 2015 18:32
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Get some scrap cold roll and a couple punches and make about six of these while a crusty as gently caress 70 year old German tells you they're not good enough and you'll be holding .015" in no time. Click through for more in the album: http://m.imgur.com/a/3OW7j E: phonepost confirmed, sorry! shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 20:07
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Holy balls that's a bit photo. I'm gonna guess you're phone-posting...
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Jan 9, 2015 20:23
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use [ timg] tags instead of [ img] tags for big stuff 
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Jan 10, 2015 00:07
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Hu Fa Ted posted:How small are we talking? McMaster Carr has some: Ah drat, I was hoping to find some tubing with like a 1" od. Was planning on using a couple thin slices to make a necklace but the brass tubing only goes up to 3/16" and I definitely don't have the tools for aluminum welding. Maybe I'll use the aluminum with its higher wall thickness, drill some holes, and run jump rings through instead of soldering rings on. Thanks.
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Jan 10, 2015 02:28
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door Door door posted:Ah drat, I was hoping to find some tubing with like a 1" od. Was planning on using a couple thin slices to make a necklace but the brass tubing only goes up to 3/16" and I definitely don't have the tools for aluminum welding. Maybe I'll use the aluminum with its higher wall thickness, drill some holes, and run jump rings through instead of soldering rings on. It's probably a lot more involved than you wanna get, but for something like making a bunch of hex rings I'd probably buy some hex bar to use as a mandrel, grind one end down to get a taper going, make and weld/solder shut some big jump rings of different sizes, and fiddle around trying to figure out what size of ring best accomodated hammering a round ring down the mandrel to pop off the other end all nice and hexagonal-like, and then knock a bunch out. Your idea with the aluminium tubing would work just fine too, be faster and easier for just a few rings at any rate, assuming you have a good bandsaw or miter box or something else that'll let you make clean and precise straight cuts. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 04:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:It's probably a lot more involved than you wanna get, but for something like making a bunch of hex rings I'd probably buy some hex bar to use as a mandrel, grind one end down to get a taper going, make and weld/solder shut some big jump rings of different sizes, and fiddle around trying to figure out what size of ring best accomodated hammering a round ring down the mandrel to pop off the other end all nice and hexagonal-like, and then knock a bunch out. Yeah I only need a few rings so I was going to go for the miter box approach. Would a jeweler's saw cut 1/8" thick aluminum or should I just use a hacksaw and resign myself to having to do a lot of filing and sanding?
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Jan 10, 2015 17:24
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The going'll be slow but it'll work just fine, yeah. I don't know of many non-jeweller-specialized miter boxes that have fine enough slots for a jeweller's saw, though, youll get a lot of play with most because the blade is fine and short enough that it can still twist a ton in the slot. Lee Valley sells a nice little anodized aluminium one for use with fine razor saws that I use a fair bit with my normal jeweller's saw when I want to make some tube rivets or whatever.
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Jan 10, 2015 18:24
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Rime posted:I'm thinking of hosting a blacksmithing / metalworking specific wiki, since Wikipedia is more technical than necessary and there is a lot of useful information being lost as geocities era sites like Anvilfire shut down. Heck, even the OP here is mostly dead. Hey, come on man, I just redid the op a couple months ago. This thread is over seven years old! Check out iforgeiron, they have a good forum with nice info. Buncha horrible greybeards over there but they know their stuff. If there's some specific resources you'd like to see in the op (like on repoussé perhaps? Ambrose  ) just suggest it and I'll be happy to help with some research or links.Hell if anyone has suggestions for content, I am all ears.
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Jan 12, 2015 18:35
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Rime posted:I'm thinking of hosting a blacksmithing / metalworking specific wiki, since Wikipedia is more technical than necessary and there is a lot of useful information being lost as geocities era sites like Anvilfire shut down. Heck, even the OP here is mostly dead. Just in the Calgary, Canada area I built a forge brickwork with a friend and am working on the fuel system. I was out for a display of aluminum casting about 3 weeks back, and signed into a knife making course over the next month. Far from dead and well worth while.
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Jan 14, 2015 06:59
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mcbagpipes posted:Just in the Calgary, Canada area I built a forge brickwork with a friend and am working on the fuel system. I was out for a display of aluminum casting about 3 weeks back, and signed into a knife making course over the next month. Far from dead and well worth while. Hey, awesome, another Calgary area goon. You in the southern Alberta blacksmith guild? If not, you should join us out in Irricana for a meeting some time. Second Saturday of most months.
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Jan 14, 2015 16:39
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 Roughed up some 1/4" rod and drew it out to 1/8" for my stems last night. Haven't done any forging since I took the class back in October so it took me about 40 minutes per to get it drawn out. Any tips for speeding that up? I was striking it near the far edge of the anvil, with a "pushing" motion down the work towards the tip of the taper. Didn't see you'd redone the OP recently, Slung Blade, that's awesome! I was thinking of the wiki being full of beginner tutorials for less obvious things, so that peeps didn't have to troll through forums and decide which crusty old codgers advice sounded the best.  )Looks like registering on IForgeIron has been impossible since October, new accounts just get auto-banned and they haven't bothered to fix the issue. Rime fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Jan 15, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 19:04
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 Euro/UK GoonsI found a source of proper wrought iron  http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Genuine-19th-Century-Wrought-Iron.html#SID=181 AND high quality knife / tool steel flats including Hitach Blue. http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/steel_billets.html
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Jan 16, 2015 11:14
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Jan 19, 2015 18:30
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That's beautiful, well done.
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Jan 19, 2015 20:41
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Kind of random, but a friend just sent this my way, thought y'all might enjoy it: a wedding ring went into the garbage disposal and got pretty heavily mutilated but was successfully restored. Pictures of the process: http://imgur.com/gallery/nYEmf
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Jan 21, 2015 16:45
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That's a really tidy job. Also  at all the "OMG HOW U BRAEK DIAMOND!??!1" idiots in the comments.
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Jan 21, 2015 17:29
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I have shutup installed so I don't see comments on webpages (seriously improves browsing on my desktop), but on mobile I saw the comment "it actually buffed right out."
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Jan 22, 2015 14:36
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My better half has a ring that appears to be made of copper (it's definitely all metal) that's broken and has a gap on one side. We'd like to close the gap so it fits better and doesn't catch on things. What's the best method to use? I have access to a soldering iron, a torch rig for brazing HVAC copper, and superglue.
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Jan 24, 2015 04:16
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:My better half has a ring that appears to be made of copper (it's definitely all metal) that's broken and has a gap on one side. We'd like to close the gap so it fits better and doesn't catch on things. What's the best method to use? I have access to a soldering iron, a torch rig for brazing HVAC copper, and superglue. Solder it closed with the rig and some pure copper wire, I'd say.
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Jan 24, 2015 05:47
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Check to make sure it's actually made of copper throughout first, though. a lot of cheapie mass produced jewellery is made of cast zinc-based pot metal alloys plates with whatever, and if you try brazing one of those, it'll melt before the filler metal melts. File a little bit off the open area where you're going to solder and see if the copper runs through the whole ring. also- pure copper is, ime, bad for filling gaps and the like because it has a single melting point and goes from a solid to a liquid instantly- it has no mushy intermediate phase. That means you stand a good chance of melting the base ring getting it hot enough for the filler to take, and if you don't, it'll still require shooting a ton more copper wire into the gap than you actually need and then spending a lot of time filing it back to true. brass would be a better choice, if one with a bad colour match; tbh if it isn't a structural thing and you just want to smooth the gap out I'd probably just stick some epoxy up in there and touch it up with some copper paint and avoid the whole headache of doing a decent jewellery repair without a jeweller's tools.
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Jan 24, 2015 14:00
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Too cool not to make a background out of, hope you don't mind:
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jan 24, 2015 |
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Jan 24, 2015 17:34
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Rime posted:Cool, I'll see what I can put together once I've finished this rose project. Beautiful Rose. I love how it looks when it is still hot. Try perusing the ABANA website. http://www.abana.org http://www.abana.org/resources/chf.shtml If you are in North America, join your nearest chapter.
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Jan 25, 2015 20:06
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Sadly, in Vancouver there's just a couple of us on Facebook and the guys down at the lab that I forge with for organized stuff, the BC ABANA chapter is on VanIsle for some bizarre reason. However CanIron is in BC next year, so that's something to look forward to. 
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Jan 26, 2015 04:50
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Rime posted:Sadly, in Vancouver there's just a couple of us on Facebook and the guys down at the lab that I forge with for organized stuff, the BC ABANA chapter is on VanIsle for some bizarre reason. However CanIron is in BC next year, so that's something to look forward to. There's a Kootenay blacksmith association as well, iirc. Not exactly the closest place to Vancouver, but they might be able to point you at some locals in the same situation.
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Jan 26, 2015 17:54
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http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4836632919.html I've never seen one of these for sale before.
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Jan 27, 2015 20:35
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fps_bill posted:http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/4836632919.html I think I have that same exact die filer. I paid $25 at an auction for it, no one wanted it  . I'm missing the over arm support, but I ain't paying $450 to find out what I'm missing. I have pictures somewhere in my post history of it from last year I think. edit: (http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844&pagenumber=167&perpage=40#post427235409)Powered die files are really hard to find any more. There was one company that had a limited stock of them and I bought what they had. Pimblor fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 06:34
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I need to punch a ton of 3/8" holes in 18ga spring steel. I've got a drill press, but I've broken countless bits. I've bought the sheetmetal stepped bits and dulled 10 of those. I've bought a hand puncher, but it isn't strong enough, or maybe I'm not strong enough. I've been making the holes, but the attrition to my tools has been hell. And it takes forever. Is this a job for benchtop punch? How do the dies for that work? Or can I get an arbor press plus something else and make this work? Is there something else?
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Jan 28, 2015 13:35
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iwannabebobdylan posted:I need to punch a ton of 3/8" holes in 18ga spring steel. I've got a drill press, but I've broken countless bits. I've bought the sheetmetal stepped bits and dulled 10 of those. I've bought a hand puncher, but it isn't strong enough, or maybe I'm not strong enough. I've been making the holes, but the attrition to my tools has been hell. And it takes forever. This: http://www.americanmachinetools.com/tonnage_punch_hole.htm if I am reading it right says for a 3/8" hole in high carbon steel you need 18 tons to punch a hole. I think that's out of the realm of your average arbor press. You probably wouldn't want to punch holes all day on a machine that was only rated max 18-20 tons so you'll want some headroom I'd think. A die for this is gonna be spendy too: http://www.grainger.com/product/ENE..._AS01?$smthumb$ (That's an enerpac 3/8" die if the link doesn't work for $188) and will wear out. Have you tried a stubby carbide drill bit and the right cutting fluid?
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Jan 28, 2015 14:08
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Cheap non-chinese HSS bit, actual cutting oil, and slow enough rpm that you can get a decent chip out of it. Should last 40-50 holes or so. e: And by cheap I mean the noncoated screw machine length on mcmaster that are under $5 each. oxbrain fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 16:46
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Hu Fa Ted posted:This: http://www.americanmachinetools.com/tonnage_punch_hole.htm if I am reading it right says for a 3/8" hole in high carbon steel you need 18 tons to punch a hole. I think that's out of the realm of your average arbor press. You probably wouldn't want to punch holes all day on a machine that was only rated max 18-20 tons so you'll want some headroom I'd think. A die for this is gonna be spendy too: I think if I take it back to 20g and 5/16" hole I'm getting 1.44 tons, which seems sorta do-able. I might have been running my drill too fast, and I've tried every bit I can get my hands on and they just dull immediately. What RPM would you run this thing at? As slow as possible? If doesn't chip all that well, it usually just kind of deforms. Thanks for the help!
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Jan 28, 2015 19:23
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For spring steel you want HSSCO (Cobalt alloy) bits, M35-grade is good, M42 is better. EDIT: if I had a fuckload to punch I'd be looking for a local laser or water jet shop to save my sanity / time. Water and garnet doesn't give two shits what your Rockwell-C is. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 28, 2015 |
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Jan 28, 2015 19:45
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