MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > MIATA THREAD - My Third Gear Syncro Is On Grindr

brand engager: Mar 23, 2011

Sex Weirdo posted:

On the last page someone said that the ND was rumored to start at $30.5k, which if true, makes the BRZ the better buy imo. The base BRZ starts at $5k less dollars and you get 45 more horsepower and a hardtop coupe (I consider it the MX-5 coupe we never got). That's not to mention other features I admittedly haven't researched like does the ND come with navigation, HIDs, or a limited slip differential? Unless you absolutely have to have a drop top, I just don't see the value here.

You just missed out on the discussion about how horsepower isn't everything in the miata.

Edit:The power/weight of the brz isn't much higher anyways. The miata is 140.9hp/ton to the BRZ 144.7hp/ton.

brand engager fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Feb 4, 2015

# ? Feb 4, 2015 19:52

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# ? May 22, 2024 15:14

Sex Weirdo: Jul 24, 2007

I read the discussion, but when people say

Hog Obituary posted:

FRS/brz (but price, gutless)

and the alternative is a miata, I don't see how it's debatable. If the BRZ is costly and gutless what does that make the ND MX-5?

# ? Feb 4, 2015 19:58

King of all Machines Operate: Sep 23, 2005; uterus puncher ):

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4876084091.html

Looking for my first Miata. This guy said he's willing to part with it for $4250. I don't know a ton about the current market but in my two weeks or so of looking in the SF bay area, it's been hard to find one that's not modded terribly or just beat to poo poo.

Is that a fair price? Anything to be concerned about? One thing I noticed is the relatively high mileage but anecdotal evidence seems to say that these things run forever when properly maintained.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 20:17

Phone: Jul 30, 2005; 親子丼をほしい。

Sex Weirdo posted:

On the last page someone said that the ND was rumored to start at $30.5k, which if true, makes the BRZ the better buy imo. The base BRZ starts at $5k less dollars and you get 45 more horsepower and a hardtop coupe (I consider it the MX-5 coupe we never got). That's not to mention other features I admittedly haven't researched like does the ND come with navigation, HIDs, or a limited slip differential? Unless you absolutely have to have a drop top, I just don't see the value here.

You can get the NC with HIDs and an LSD and the ND has LED lighting and an LSD. Are you from 1996? Is Navigation a deal breaker?

# ? Feb 4, 2015 20:42

Nodoze: Aug 17, 2006; If it's only for a night I can live without you

The difference between 150 and 200 or 200 and 240 isn't very noticeable in the end. You are still going to get walked on in a straight line by all kinds of things even with that extra 50hp

If I had to guess the ND and BRZ will probably be close to the same speed anyway because of the weight difference.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 20:45

craig588: Nov 19, 2005; by Nyc_Tattoo

mobby_6kl posted:

one of the calipers was quite rusted and they had to mess with it a lot. The end result is that the handbrake doesn't engage the left side
...
uneven wear

It's a pretty common problem that the handbrake actuators on the calipers get rusted up enough that they don't want to release which causes uneven wear and also makes changing brake pads much harder than it should be. It might be so rusted that even though they were able to force it to release with tools, just the strength of the handbrake lever isn't enough to move it.

King of all Machines Operate posted:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4876084091.html

Looking for my first Miata. This guy said he's willing to part with it for $4250. I don't know a ton about the current market but in my two weeks or so of looking in the SF bay area, it's been hard to find one that's not modded terribly or just beat to poo poo.

Is that a fair price? Anything to be concerned about? One thing I noticed is the relatively high mileage but anecdotal evidence seems to say that these things run forever when properly maintained.

Terrible wheels and shocks on that car. It's going to have a way worse ride than it normally should. I've ridden in cars with those KYB shocks that rode worse than 10+ year old worn out OEM shocks. Combined with the poly bushings (Which are great for a good suspension) it might make it INCREDIBLY harsh. Test drive another car before you decide on that one so you have a reference for what a normal worn out suspension would feel like.

The cold air intake isn't helping, but at least it looks like it uses a good filter and not a terrible oil soaked one so it's probably not hurting anything either.

Hard Dog makes good roll bars, but that's the small one so make sure you can pass the broomstick test with it.

The replacement seats look very nice.

He doesn't mention it so I'm not sure if it's still on the car, but the tow receiver is an after market part too.

Price, I have no idea though. Pricing is very regional, it's about double what I paid for a car in much worse condition, but also about 5 times what I paid for a car in similar condition, just from different parts of the country. I have a feeling that SF will have some of the highest prices in the country though.

Edit: Oh yeah, the strut tower bar is only hurting things by adding weight, Miatas don't need bracing there.

craig588 fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Feb 4, 2015

# ? Feb 4, 2015 22:49

blk: Dec 19, 2009; .

King of all Machines Operate posted:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4876084091.html

Looking for my first Miata. This guy said he's willing to part with it for $4250. I don't know a ton about the current market but in my two weeks or so of looking in the SF bay area, it's been hard to find one that's not modded terribly or just beat to poo poo.

Is that a fair price? Anything to be concerned about? One thing I noticed is the relatively high mileage but anecdotal evidence seems to say that these things run forever when properly maintained.

Mileage seems awfully high for the price, but I don't know what the market's like down there. Looks like it was well maintained but with that extensive list of mods I wouldn't be able to guess how it drives. Miata.net has a good buyer's FAQ.

Edit: this might be a better buy if you sell the terrible wheels: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4876425945.html

blk fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Feb 4, 2015

# ? Feb 4, 2015 23:05

Wrar: Sep 9, 2002; Soiled Meat

Phone posted:

You can get the NC with HIDs and an LSD and the ND has LED lighting and an LSD. Are you from 1996? Is Navigation a deal breaker?

Why anyone wants lovely factory navigation is beyond me when you can mount an Android tablet/iPad in the car that's 100 times better than garbage systems car manufacturers put in a car.

# ? Feb 4, 2015 23:11

Nodoze: Aug 17, 2006; If it's only for a night I can live without you

The stupid built in navs are outdated in like two months too

# ? Feb 5, 2015 00:39

Literally Lewis Hamilton: Feb 22, 2005

The xenons for the NC are nice at night but they are only for the low beams, not sure if its the same on the BRZ.

I do have the premium package and the suspension package and its pretty baller. I bought a keypad for my garage lock so I have a completely keyless lifestyle now and I'll never go back. :smuggo:

# ? Feb 5, 2015 00:52

King of all Machines Operate: Sep 23, 2005; uterus puncher ):

craig588 posted:

It's a pretty common problem that the handbrake actuators on the calipers get rusted up enough that they don't want to release which causes uneven wear and also makes changing brake pads much harder than it should be. It might be so rusted that even though they were able to force it to release with tools, just the strength of the handbrake lever isn't enough to move it.

Terrible wheels and shocks on that car. It's going to have a way worse ride than it normally should. I've ridden in cars with those KYB shocks that rode worse than 10+ year old worn out OEM shocks. Combined with the poly bushings (Which are great for a good suspension) it might make it INCREDIBLY harsh. Test drive another car before you decide on that one so you have a reference for what a normal worn out suspension would feel like.

The cold air intake isn't helping, but at least it looks like it uses a good filter and not a terrible oil soaked one so it's probably not hurting anything either.

Hard Dog makes good roll bars, but that's the small one so make sure you can pass the broomstick test with it.

The replacement seats look very nice.

He doesn't mention it so I'm not sure if it's still on the car, but the tow receiver is an after market part too.

Price, I have no idea though. Pricing is very regional, it's about double what I paid for a car in much worse condition, but also about 5 times what I paid for a car in similar condition, just from different parts of the country. I have a feeling that SF will have some of the highest prices in the country though.

Edit: Oh yeah, the strut tower bar is only hurting things by adding weight, Miatas don't need bracing there.

Thanks, this is really helpful.
Do you think it'd be better to start with a mostly stock Miata and add upgrades as I need, or start with something that has more modifications done. This would be my first car to track/tinker with (I do not plan on daily driving it, but I also don't want it to sit half worked on for months). If the things he added are not upgrades that make the car better, then it doesn't seem like it's worth the trouble. I'm just hesitant to buy a stock car if I can pick up one with the correct mods for not much more.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 00:57

Militant Lesbian: Oct 3, 2002

It's never worth buying someone else's half-assed project. Stock is always the preferred way to buy a car, no matter what the car and what the intent is, because the rule of previous owners states that for every one decent change the PO has made, there will be at least two WTF mods that will make you want to tear your hair out.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 01:29

Rhyno: Mar 22, 2003; Can't post for 10 years!

A buddy of mine has been looking for a cheap Miata and this popped up sort of nearby

http://swmi.craigslist.org/cto/4867807766.html

quote:

The car runs great and very dependable. It gets 45 miles to the gallon witch is really good. It is a five speed with low miles only has 100 k on the motor. First with 1200 gets it.

I mean obviously it's not gonna get 45mpg and the wheels are mis-matched but for $1200 even I'm tempted. Besides rust what should we keep an eye out for?

# ? Feb 5, 2015 01:31

Seat Safety Switch: May 27, 2008; MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.; Pillbug

craig588 posted:

Terrible wheels and shocks on that car. It's going to have a way worse ride than it normally should. I've ridden in cars with those KYB shocks that rode worse than 10+ year old worn out OEM shocks. Combined with the poly bushings (Which are great for a good suspension) it might make it INCREDIBLY harsh. Test drive another car before you decide on that one so you have a reference for what a normal worn out suspension would feel like.

How are the KYB GR2s as opposed to the AGXes?

I was thinking of using those to restore my stock 97 to fighting trim. I know GR2s are the Subaru OEM but I don't know what the Miata OEM is for my model (Showa?).

Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Feb 5, 2015

# ? Feb 5, 2015 01:40

craig588: Nov 19, 2005; by Nyc_Tattoo

I want to say they're better. I've never felt them, just the KYBs with that 8 setting knob. I'd like to imagine since they're only getting valved for OEM replacement rates they'll perform much better since they have something more precise to shoot for.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 01:53

destructo: Apr 29, 2006

Thanks dudes! Gauges are km/h.

blk posted:

That's beautiful. I wish someone made new faceplates for the AC controls on the center stack to match all the cool gauge clusters out there.

RS Products, Trap, and Revlimiter still make custom HVAC panels. You can buy direct from RSP without a broker, so keep that in mind. Its relatively cheap for what you get.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 02:38

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

Rhyno posted:

A buddy of mine has been looking for a cheap Miata and this popped up sort of nearby

http://swmi.craigslist.org/cto/4867807766.html

I mean obviously it's not gonna get 45mpg and the wheels are mis-matched but for $1200 even I'm tempted. Besides rust what should we keep an eye out for?

Jump on it, only thing to really be concerned about is rusted rockers, but for that much it's not a big deal unless the rust is non repairable.

Only other thing to keep an eye on is normal used car poo poo. Make sure it has oil in it, no knocks, blah blah you know the deal.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 02:51

Literally Lewis Hamilton: Feb 22, 2005

destructo posted:

Thanks dudes! Gauges are km/h.

RS Products, Trap, and Revlimiter still make custom HVAC panels. You can buy direct from RSP without a broker, so keep that in mind. Its relatively cheap for what you get.

This owns in every way

# ? Feb 5, 2015 03:10

King of all Machines Operate: Sep 23, 2005; uterus puncher ):

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4877804387.html

Is that much better then? I definitely get the point about never knowing how well people modded their cars, so this seems like a much saner purchase, even if it means spending more later on upgrades that I might want.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 03:40

craig588: Nov 19, 2005; by Nyc_Tattoo

That's a much better car. Given the price of that one, the other one is probably way overpriced and probably should be in the 2000 range.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 03:43

blk: Dec 19, 2009; .

Definitely get the red NA. Keep in mind that timing belt/water pump should be done every 60-70kish and will cost you around 600-800 at a shop if you don't DIY. Also check out the top, replacements with labor near me are around 1500.

Given that the car pictured has leather and cruise control, it probably also has a LSD. Grab it if you don't notice any glaring problems.

blk fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Feb 5, 2015

# ? Feb 5, 2015 03:47

Suburban Dad: Jan 10, 2007; Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself

blk posted:

Definitely get the red NA. Keep in mind that timing belt/water pump should be done every 60-70kish and will cost you around 600-800 at a shop if you don't DIY. Also check out the top, replacements with labor near me are around 1500.

Given that the car pictured has leather and cruise control, it probably also has a LSD. Grab it if you don't notice any glaring problems.

Jesus, do a robbins top yourself over a couple days for a couple hundred bucks. It ain't that hard.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 04:22

Rhyno: Mar 22, 2003; Can't post for 10 years!

leica posted:

Jump on it, only thing to really be concerned about is rusted rockers, but for that much it's not a big deal unless the rust is non repairable.

Only other thing to keep an eye on is normal used car poo poo. Make sure it has oil in it, no knocks, blah blah you know the deal.

Cool, wanted to make sure there was no super secret NA issues I'd forgotten about.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 04:23

Nodoze: Aug 17, 2006; If it's only for a night I can live without you

destructo posted:

Thanks dudes! Gauges are km/h.

RS Products, Trap, and Revlimiter still make custom HVAC panels. You can buy direct from RSP without a broker, so keep that in mind. Its relatively cheap for what you get.

I love these things so much

# ? Feb 5, 2015 04:31

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

Rhyno posted:

Cool, wanted to make sure there was no super secret NA issues I'd forgotten about.

In the pics it looks like the top is shot, that's 400 bucks right there if you do it yourself.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 06:21

Otteration: Jan 4, 2014; I CAN'T SAY PRESIDENT DONALD JOHN TRUMP'S NAME BECAUSE HE'S LIKE THAT GUY FROM HARRY POTTER AND I'M AFRAID I'LL SUMMON HIM. DONALD JOHN TRUMP. YOUR FAVORITE PRESIDENT.
OUR 47TH PRESIDENT AFTER THE ONE WHO SHOWERS WITH HIS DAUGHTER DIES; Grimey Drawer

leica posted:

In the pics it looks like the top is shot, that's 400 bucks right there if you do it yourself.

Yep, and I'd wonder why the price is so low, and what magic got them 45 mph. Once fishy (in print even, kinda), twice fishy. How long's it been for sale, if if so, why?

But if money and time are not issues go for it.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 07:26

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

Finally got around to my manual window conversion/speaker enclosure project.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 07:48

brand engager: Mar 23, 2011

leica posted:

Finally got around to my manual window conversion/speaker enclosure project.

You converted it to handcranks or from it to motorized?

# ? Feb 5, 2015 07:55

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

Converted to manual from power, those are power window regulators I'm flipping off.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 08:09

Rhyno: Mar 22, 2003; Can't post for 10 years!

leica posted:

In the pics it looks like the top is shot, that's 400 bucks right there if you do it yourself.

If the rockers are rusted should he pass on it? I know I've seen a lot of rocker rust regret in this thread.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 08:57

Sadi: Jan 18, 2005; SC - Where there are more rednecks than people

I could be wrong but ive heard really bad things about life on AGX and KYB. I think I'd just get koni yellows and be done with it. The sale is just around the corner.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 12:34

RillAkBea: Oct 11, 2008

Wrar posted:

Why anyone wants lovely factory navigation is beyond me when you can mount an Android tablet/iPad in the car that's 100 times better than garbage systems car manufacturers put in a car.

Better than a lot of aftermarket garbage too. Google maps gets me around rural Japan better than an actual GPS navigation unit programmed in Japan. That's good enough for me!

# ? Feb 5, 2015 13:27

mobby_6kl: Aug 9, 2009; by Fluffdaddy

Having the nav system built-in can be pretty nice, I've used idrive and Command and it's just... nice not having to stick your phone into an ugly holder (let alone carry a separate tablet/device), connect it with a usb cable or shout instructions at it. In the few cases I used them they worked well in terms of routing, though I'm sure overall Waze would do a better job in the long term.

craig588 posted:

It's a pretty common problem that the handbrake actuators on the calipers get rusted up enough that they don't want to release which causes uneven wear and also makes changing brake pads much harder than it should be. It might be so rusted that even though they were able to force it to release with tools, just the strength of the handbrake lever isn't enough to move it.

Thanks, that would totally explain what's going on. Gonna need to climb in there once it gets warmer and have a look, is this circled part the actuator? I'm having a hard time figuring anything out from the service manual illustrations.

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Feb 5, 2015

# ? Feb 5, 2015 15:21

Applebees Appetizer: Jan 23, 2006

Rhyno posted:

If the rockers are rusted should he pass on it? I know I've seen a lot of rocker rust regret in this thread.

Depends how bad it is, if it looks like the rot has completely disintegrated the rocker then yeah I'd pass on it, otherwise it can be fixed and at that price it's really not a big deal.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 18:01

Phone: Jul 30, 2005; 親子丼をほしい。

# ? Feb 5, 2015 18:39

Terrible Robot: Jul 2, 2010; FRIED CHICKEN; Slippery Tilde

Yellow!

# ? Feb 5, 2015 18:46

Militant Lesbian: Oct 3, 2002

Phone posted:

drat, I'd love to get one of those brochures to go with my JDM RX-8 brochure. The Japanese market brochures Mazda puts out are always beautifully made.

# ? Feb 5, 2015 18:47