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Minkee posted:This is a great book. Best recommendation CA ever gave me was this book. Whether you just took your MSF or you have been riding for years this is a great read and you will certainly learn something about motorcycling you didn't know. Glowing recommendation, I will keep an eye out.
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Feb 12, 2015 04:55
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| # ? May 17, 2024 00:31 |
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Proficient motorcycling, total control, sport riding techniques, then twist of the wrist 2.
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Feb 12, 2015 06:52
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Proficient Motorcycling taught me to fear painted road lines in the rain, metal grates, trolley tracks that run in parallel with the road, freshly rained-on roads and diesel spills. It's full of astoundingly good advice from a road hazard standpoint. Fun thing to do: read the chapters on road hazards and then go watch a No Prisoners video. You'll be calling out many crashes well before they get there.
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Feb 12, 2015 10:12
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I didn't keep score but after watching most of parts 1 and 2 2014 edition it seems like the majority of a particular type are "rider assumes vehicle in front will keep moving" (this may or may not coincide with an excessively long shoulder check)
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Feb 12, 2015 22:50
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Ripoff posted:Proficient Motorcycling taught me to fear painted road lines in the rain, metal grates, trolley tracks that run in parallel with the road, freshly rained-on roads and diesel spills. It's full of astoundingly good advice from a road hazard standpoint. Going outside on a motorcycle taught me to fear painted lines. They're slippery as gently caress even in the dry but I get the feeling American roads use a different type of sludge for the job.
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Feb 13, 2015 00:27
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Walking outside in dress shoes taught me to hate wet painted lines.
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Feb 13, 2015 01:54
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Slavvy posted:Going outside on a motorcycle taught me to fear painted lines. They're slippery as gently caress even in the dry but I get the feeling American roads use a different type of sludge for the job. Here in my state, most lines/paint use sand in the paint. It makes most of the lines and such that you see pretty safe to ride on. However, about 8-10 years ago they tried out some different types of paint (no longer used, thank god) that were like loving ice when wet. There are some spots in town where they used it to paint whole parts of the street for bicyclists to use to identify the bike lane. There are two huge arrows where the highway narrows to one lane that use it. The stuff is deadly.
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Feb 13, 2015 04:41
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Lynza posted:Here in my state, most lines/paint use sand in the paint. It makes most of the lines and such that you see pretty safe to ride on. However, about 8-10 years ago they tried out some different types of paint (no longer used, thank god) that were like loving ice when wet. There are some spots in town where they used it to paint whole parts of the street for bicyclists to use to identify the bike lane. There are two huge arrows where the highway narrows to one lane that use it. The stuff is deadly. Over here it's stuff that looks for all the world like cake icing. Touching it with your finger reveals the same sort of texture as the cast parts of an alloy bike frame. They have stuff in them that makes them reflective at night but the paint is completely gripless; often this is exacerbated by the lane divider lines having stippling/bars to make them noisy when oblivious cunts drive over them.
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Feb 13, 2015 06:14
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If sliding on a white line scares you then be positive. You can look forward to the day when they are fun. The best rides have a few moments of the front or rear losing traction. WHOO https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aOR2GVnmOk&t=14s
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Feb 13, 2015 08:18
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I finally managed to lock the front on my FZ6 today. I guess It's not that bad if you let the hell off the brake and aren't leaning on the bars. Locking the rear is always good fun though.
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Feb 13, 2015 08:35
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nsaP posted:If sliding on a white line scares you then be positive. You can look forward to the day when they are fun. The best rides have a few moments of the front or rear losing traction. I've broken the rear loose a bunch of times and it feels completely different to slipping on a line. They feel like ice, or that mirror smooth concrete in garages. Unless you're totally upright there is no grip. It is fun to just skim the back wheel over a line and have it step out momentarily though.
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Feb 13, 2015 21:18
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Slavvy posted:I've broken the rear loose a bunch of times and it feels completely different to slipping on a line. They feel like ice, or that mirror smooth concrete in garages. Unless you're totally upright there is no grip. Play with a DRZ400SM, you can ride them past the limit if you're even somewhat decent. Pushing the front around, chassis turning into a twisting noodle mid corner, back end hopping mid corner, etc. You can do it on a full blown superbike, but entry level limits are much higher, the window between riding it out and crashing is very small, the signs are much more subtle, and the penalty is much harsher. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 21:32
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Sadly when I can get a ZRX1200 for about three grand less than a DRZ400SM I'll pick big and retarded over impractical sumo every time. Every motardy sort of bike here is insanely overpriced because they sell so few to begin with.
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Feb 13, 2015 22:15
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Slavvy posted:Sadly when I can get a ZRX1200 for about three grand less than a DRZ400SM I'll pick big and retarded over impractical sumo every time. Every motardy sort of bike here is insanely overpriced because they sell so few to begin with. How is it after all these years that the manufacturers don't know that doubling sumo production would mean doubling sumo sales?
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Feb 13, 2015 23:06
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Lynza posted:Here in my state, most lines/paint use sand in the paint. It makes most of the lines and such that you see pretty safe to ride on. However, about 8-10 years ago they tried out some different types of paint (no longer used, thank god) that were like loving ice when wet. There are some spots in town where they used it to paint whole parts of the street for bicyclists to use to identify the bike lane. There are two huge arrows where the highway narrows to one lane that use it. The stuff is deadly. That green poo poo? I remember going down hard right after they installed something like that right by Terwilliger and Taylors Ferry. Thankfully I was on my bicycle so I wasn't going nearly fast enough to be dead. Felt like wet leaves.
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Feb 13, 2015 23:24
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Slavvy posted:Sadly when I can get a ZRX1200 for about three grand less than a DRZ400SM I'll pick big and retarded over impractical sumo every time. Every motardy sort of bike here is insanely overpriced because they sell so few to begin with. Here I can get a new SM for a couple grand more than a used one. Why even bother with used at that point?
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Feb 13, 2015 23:53
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Slavvy posted:I've broken the rear loose a bunch of times and it feels completely different to slipping on a line. They feel like ice, or that mirror smooth concrete in garages. Unless you're totally upright there is no grip. That was the front locking. I rarely have the rear slide, it's usually the front and usually in turns.
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Feb 14, 2015 00:24
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epalm posted:How is it after all these years that the manufacturers don't know that doubling sumo production would mean doubling sumo sales? Because it means police departments have to arrest twice as many people for doing wheelies through residential community parks 
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Feb 14, 2015 04:19
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So I'm finally getting around to picking up the parts frame/engine that came with the GR650. Engine is still solid and I definitely have plans to keep it on hand for future repairs. The frame is from the bike that donated the wiring/carbs/tank. What do I do with this? Frames shape prevents me from doing anything other than a parallel twin I think. If I chop it I could probably squeeze in a four banger but I don't know how to weld. I'd like to do a trail bike. That monoshock swing arm is just too awesome. Anyone have links to build threads in this line? I'll take suggestions on power train too. Being such a one off bike it isn't easy finding info for this sort of thing.
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Feb 15, 2015 16:42
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BlackMK4 posted:Play with a DRZ400SM, you can ride them past the limit if you're even somewhat decent. Pushing the front around, chassis turning into a twisting noodle mid corner, back end hopping mid corner, etc. I'm not even decent and I'm doing all that! I'm doing all that because I'm a terrible rider with terrible habits who is going to get into a lot of trouble on a big bike. 
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Feb 15, 2015 18:06
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What was that website, that would let you choose your bike from a dropdown and would show you gearing ratios, let you select different sprocket sizes, show you what your rpm would be at what speed, and tons of other stuff?
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Feb 21, 2015 06:34
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Tanbo posted:What was that website, that would let you choose your bike from a dropdown and would show you gearing ratios, let you select different sprocket sizes, show you what your rpm would be at what speed, and tons of other stuff? I think it's http://www.gearingcommander.com/
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Feb 21, 2015 07:15
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Marxalot posted:I think it's http://www.gearingcommander.com/ That's it, thanks. I thought I remembered commander in there somewhere.
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Feb 21, 2015 08:12
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It sucks, just a couple weeks ago I was out riding enjoying the nice weather, now it's been frozen over for a week now and negative temperatures. Anyway, looking forward to spring, I think I have a mounting solution figured out for my phone, (this and xgrip), just wondering about the power situation, gps/music will suck down battery like crazy. I have the battery tender connection already, should I just get an extension cable+usb connector and ziptie it somewhere? Will leaving the usb connector on there drain the battery? I suppose I could get fancy and wire to a switched source, make a hole in the inner fairing and put a lighter socket in there, but  .
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Feb 21, 2015 10:22
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I wired up a port for a trickle charger, then just pop THIS gizmo on the port when i need to power my phone: Zip tied an old USB cable up the frame and bam.
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Feb 22, 2015 07:11
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Yeah that's the one I was looking at. I ordered one in late summer but drat if I know where it is, can't find it. Probably the same place my socks go.  You put it on when you need it though? Does it have a parasitic draw when you aren't using it if you leave it connected? My google fu leads to conflicting answers. It's not a huge deal but I ride pretty often outside of winter and I know I'm bound to forget it, so good to know.
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Feb 22, 2015 07:52
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Anyone have experience making brackets out of kydex/thermoplastic sheet? Is it sturdy enough to deal with bike vibrations?
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Feb 23, 2015 02:28
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Thermoformable plastic? I made a windshield out of it once, it worked reasonably well, it's held up. It was a big thick piece though.
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Feb 23, 2015 02:51
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M42 posted:Anyone have experience making brackets out of kydex/thermoplastic sheet? Is it sturdy enough to deal with bike vibrations? What sort of brackets are you trying to make? CF/Fiberglass/Kevlar can be a really good choice for making simple brackets.
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Feb 23, 2015 04:01
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Bracket that mounts to the front fender holders on my fork. Supposed to hold my hall effect sensor. Kydex is a lot less labor intensive than getting a metal bracket made, or trying to glass things myself at home, so...
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Feb 23, 2015 04:10
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You should be able to bend aluminum with just some vice grips/channel locks and a drill. I'm not sure what the quality of the plastic would be vs. some aluminum.
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Feb 23, 2015 05:00
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I am absolutely brand new to biking and now when comparing new rides I have specs I haven't had to worry about when looking at cars so I hae what are probably some really dumb questions. Please don't eat me alive. What is the Bore x Stroke ratio? I know it's, you know, the distance fuel has to travel and has to do with fuel efficency. But I feel a bit unclear on it anyway. Also, there seem to be conflicting information when i google whether a higher or lower on either side is better, so whats the definitive answer? Am I looking for higher or lower and what are good ranges to look for?
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Feb 23, 2015 08:02
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Bore is the diameter of the cylinder, stroke is the distance the piston moves from its topmost position to its bottommost. Stroke multiplied by bore gives you the cylinder volume. It's not really anything you need to think about when choosing a bike, just look at the total displacement.
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Feb 23, 2015 08:10
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Wizard of Smart posted:I am absolutely brand new to biking and now when comparing new rides I have specs I haven't had to worry about when looking at cars so I hae what are probably some really dumb questions. Please don't eat me alive. What is the Bore x Stroke ratio? I know it's, you know, the distance fuel has to travel and has to do with fuel efficency. But I feel a bit unclear on it anyway. Also, there seem to be conflicting information when i google whether a higher or lower on either side is better, so whats the definitive answer? Am I looking for higher or lower and what are good ranges to look for? It's the relationship between the width of the piston (the bore) and the distance it travels up and down the cylinder (the stroke). If the stroke is shorter than the bore (called being undersquare) then the engine can rev higher and make more peak power. If it's the other way round (oversquare) then the engine will generally make more torque and feel more relaxed. outside of cruisers almost all bike engines are undersqaure. The only thing it has to do with fuel efficiency is that generally a more relaxed riding style promoted by an oversquare engine would improve economy but there are loads and loads of confounding factors. Basically don't get hung up on it, there are literally hundreds of way more important things to think about. Also go buy an Aprilia, they are officially the best bikes.
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Feb 23, 2015 08:11
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Basically don't get hung up on it, there are literally hundreds of way more important things to think about. Also go buy an Aprilia, they are officially the best bikes. I already have the worst bike and am absolutely enamored with it. Also thanks for the write up.
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Feb 23, 2015 08:32
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Wizard of Smart posted:I already have the worst bike and am absolutely enamored with it. What bike?
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Feb 23, 2015 16:37
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hot sauce posted:What bike? A 1981 honda cm400c.
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Feb 23, 2015 17:23
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cursedshitbox posted:Here I can get a new SM for a couple grand more than a used one. Why even bother with used at that point? Same. The going rate for a 5 year old DR here (not even an SM). Is like $1k off its original MSP. I've only seen one not beat to poo poo SM here recently, and the asking price was maybe ~$500 off MSRP.
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Feb 23, 2015 17:35
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Wizard of Smart posted:I am absolutely brand new to biking and now when comparing new rides I have specs I haven't had to worry about when looking at cars so I hae what are probably some really dumb questions. Please don't eat me alive. What is the Bore x Stroke ratio? I know it's, you know, the distance fuel has to travel and has to do with fuel efficency. But I feel a bit unclear on it anyway. Also, there seem to be conflicting information when i google whether a higher or lower on either side is better, so whats the definitive answer? Am I looking for higher or lower and what are good ranges to look for? Your 'distance the fuel has to travel' thing might be you confusing the bore/stroke with the compression ratio. The compression ratio is the ratio between the available volume in the combustion chamber/cylinder with the piston at the top of its stroke, vs. that when the piston is at the bottom. So with a higher compression ratio, the same amount of fuel/air is compressed more, which leads to a more powerful explosion. A higher compression ratio correlates with more power/efficiency, however I'd say it mostly tells you something about how modern the engine design is.
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Feb 23, 2015 20:15
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Wizard of Smart posted:A 1981 honda cm400c. I don't see the words "Buell" or "Blast" appear anywhere in there, you dirty liar.
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Feb 23, 2015 20:28
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