|
Zhentar posted:Yup. Apparently it used to be a thing. "House trap vent" is a better name for it. Good to know. Thanks!
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2015 22:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 20:17 |
|
|
Frohike999 posted:This weekend I replaced my kitchen faucet with a Moen Caldera. We have a portable dishwasher that we still use, but the dishwasher adapter doesn't fit on the new faucet. The new faucet is size 15/16 female, but I can't find a dishwasher adapter for it anywhere. Anyone have any experience with this and could point me to an adapter that would work, or am I out off luck with getting the dishwasher working with this faucet? I have a GE portable dishwasher. I tried Lowes and Home Depot and neither had the right adapter. I did find the perfect size and fit at an Ace Hardware if you have one around you; a model number of the dishwasher would help too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2015 07:21
|
|
|
uapyro posted:I have a GE portable dishwasher. I tried Lowes and Home Depot and neither had the right adapter. I did find the perfect size and fit at an Ace Hardware if you have one around you; a model number of the dishwasher would help too. Hah, I was just checking the thread to update. Yesterday after work I went to the local Do It Best. This store is amazing every time I go (I didn't try it first originally because they weren't open at the time). I go there and describe what I'm looking for. The guy at the register picks it up from the shelf right in front of him, as if he was waiting for that dumbass Frohike to give him the adapter that fits perfectly. It was the larger size fitting with a plastic adapter screwed into it in case the threads were the other direction. I take the plastic bit off and it fits perfectly. Thanks for the help guys!
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2015 11:54
|
|
|
Dishwasher update. There was a temperature limit thermostat that had tripped, leading to the heating element not coming on. It was as simple as removing the dishwasher, putting it on its side, and pressing a red button. That said, the previous owners had installed heated tile OVER the prior floor, and it took the guy 3 hours to get the thing out and back in, breaking a bunch of poo poo in the process and bending the mounts for the rear legs. The broken poo poo wasn't really needed anymore (it was plastic skids that held the rod with a worm gear to adjust the back legs), and he did a pretty good job reshaping the pan with the rear leg mounts. Basically the rear leg threads were frozen, and were no match for the lovely plastic worm gear-on-rod thing used to adjust them. After it was out we got the threads free and I told him to reinstall it as low as it would go. Well worth the $200 as I would have had to deal with getting the thing out eventually, and now it should pull out no problem. Especially when that limit switch trips again for god knows what reason.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2015 16:40
|
|
|
Are there any replacement part solutions for Restoration Hardware? They obviously cater to those who want to spend money on stuff and probably not those who want to fix them, but I have a bathtub faucet that was sold by them (see here: http://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod1274034&categoryId=cat1556041) and something internal broke and now it won't allow any water to flow from the faucet.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2015 19:29
|
|
|
I was recently gifted an old 12 foot weathered aluminum jonboat/rowboat. The boat floats so it's got that going for it but pretty well everything else is either rotted or in need or repair. Before I go into all kinds of unnecessary stories and details and before I ask my questions, is this the right thread to ask about this? I looked around the forums for a few and didn't find anything that really popped out as a better place to start than here. Most of my questions are pretty much "can/how do I attach this here, and is that ok or stupid?" I've worked with wood a lot but I don't have a lot of experience with aluminum and even less with anything that has to float. Here is the only picture of it I have handy, and the others will have to wait until the snow has melted just because I haven't taken any others yet (it was out in the elements for 15+ years at its former residence, so a few more days/weeks of it outside shouldn't hurt it that much).  Yes its got some stupid crap painted on it. Yes I used 2 cheapo red wash clothes as my red flag when I moved it. Right now I've got it sitting on the concrete slab behind my house where my grill would normally be. I eventually plan on either building a platform for it in my garage or somehow suspending it, but that stuff is another project of its own I'll get to later. If this thread is cool to talk about this project then trust me I'll come back with many many more pictures. The big 2 issues are I need to replace the bench seats and I need to mount some new mounts for the oars. I'm really excited about working on this and I cannot wait for the weather to get a little nicer so I can get on it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 17, 2015 22:23
|
|
|
Tyson Tomko posted:If this thread is cool to talk about this project then trust me I'll come back with many many more pictures. The big 2 issues are I need to replace the bench seats and I need to mount some new mounts for the oars. I'm really excited about working on this and I cannot wait for the weather to get a little nicer so I can get on it. This sounds worthy of its own thread.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2015 01:39
|
|
|
Are there any good, decently price, non hardwired smoke detectors that use Wifi? I've seen things like Roost (Which isn't out yet) and Nest (Is there a pattern here?), but I'm wondering if there any battery-powered smoke detectors on Wifi. The reason I'm asking is twofold. First, I would like to upgrade my smoke detectors (This may come as part of an upgrade when I get around to dropping TWC security), and secondly, I think my roommate is smoking in the house, and I'd like to have something simple I can put in the room (FOR LEGIT REASONS IN CASE OF FIRE) to see if there's any smoke.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 05:06
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Are there any good, decently price, non hardwired smoke detectors that use Wifi? I've seen things like Roost (Which isn't out yet) and Nest (Is there a pattern here?), but I'm wondering if there any battery-powered smoke detectors on Wifi. The reason I'm asking is twofold. First, I would like to upgrade my smoke detectors (This may come as part of an upgrade when I get around to dropping TWC security), and secondly, I think my roommate is smoking in the house, and I'd like to have something simple I can put in the room (FOR LEGIT REASONS IN CASE OF FIRE) to see if there's any smoke. Standard fire detection smokes aren't set to alert on anything like smoking unless your roommate is hotboxing a room to cheech and chong levels. So with that understood....what are you really looking for here?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 05:50
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Are there any good, decently price, non hardwired smoke detectors that use Wifi? Wifi eats batteries, so no. I suppose you could make something that might last a few days, maybe a week with a good sized battery, but that's not going to fly commercially.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 06:27
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Are there any good, decently price, non hardwired smoke detectors that use Wifi? I've seen things like Roost (Which isn't out yet) and Nest (Is there a pattern here?), but I'm wondering if there any battery-powered smoke detectors on Wifi. The reason I'm asking is twofold. First, I would like to upgrade my smoke detectors (This may come as part of an upgrade when I get around to dropping TWC security), and secondly, I think my roommate is smoking in the house, and I'd like to have something simple I can put in the room (FOR LEGIT REASONS IN CASE OF FIRE) to see if there's any smoke. No idea how sensitive it is, but it does have a separate alarm for lower amounts of smoke.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 16:20
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Nest comes in a hardwired and battery version. I have the battery version, and it supposedly lasts a couple years before it needs new batteries. Been 3 months or so, no issues. Mind blown. I wonder how they managed that trick? It's a really nice bit of engineering to run wi-fi for years off of some AA's.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 17:52
|
|
|
I have a question about hanging IKEA cabinets. I have three 84" cabinet rails. But the problem is that one single one isn't long enough to hold all of my cabinets. Is it better to use two equal length rails, or should I just cut just enough rail that would be long enough for the black, dotted length? melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Mar 16, 2019 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 18:10
|
|
|
Assuming it's going to be hanging the cabinets in the picture, make the joint line up with a joint in the cabinets.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 18:12
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Assuming it's going to be hanging the cabinets in the picture, make the joint line up with a joint in the cabinets. I'm not 100% sure of what you mean by cabinet joints. But my best guess is that my rail should end where the cabinets meet. Kind of like this:  Is this what you had in mind? Also, how deep should cabinet screws go into wall studs? Because I have these GRK 8 x 1" 3/4 screws, but as you can see below, they don't seem to fully penetrate the wall studs. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 18:25
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Whoh! Fast response. Thank you. you generally want an inch or more of depth for a screw doing any kind of load bearing into wood.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 18:30
|
|
|
Exactly that join yes, and as far into the wood as you can reasonably go.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 18:42
|
|
|
baquerd posted:Mind blown. I wonder how they managed that trick? It's a really nice bit of engineering to run wi-fi for years off of some AA's.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 19:15
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Standard fire detection smokes aren't set to alert on anything like smoking unless your roommate is hotboxing a room to cheech and chong levels. Exactly what I said. Smoke detectors that hopefully have a nice side of "they're smoking in the house when we explicitly told them not to". Cheech and chong isn't far off either. The secondary is just that, secondary. I do want my smoke alarms in the house to work, and hopefully not be terrible. I'll have to check, but I think most of the smoke detectors are the old style ones and aren't hardwired, just battery operated which sucks. if they were hardwired this would be a non-issue. Slugworth posted:At a guess, maybe it just turns on the WiFi when it comes time to send out info? It checks in with my phone once a day. Otherwise, it only needs to connect when it detects smoke maybe? this is what I figured. It's not a 24/7 connection, just long enough to actually report in and report if there is an alarm. Either way, Roost looks neat as gently caress too, but I'm not sure how well they'd work. Sad I missed the kickstarter for it, I might have actually put money down for those.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 20:27
|
|
|
baquerd posted:Mind blown. I wonder how they managed that trick? It's a really nice bit of engineering to run wi-fi for years off of some AA's. High capacity batteries (6 lithium AAs), and spending very little time actually running the wifi (I'm estimating less than 1 minute/day).
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 20:34
|
|
|
Either way, Roost looks neat as gently caress too, but I'm not sure how well they'd work. Sad I missed the kickstarter for it, I might have actually put money down for those. [/quote] While that is really cool, for almost the same price you can buy an alarm with a built in battery certified to last the life of the alarm (10 years). Sure, you don't get the wifi updates, but theoretically it would only matter once every ten years?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 21:54
|
|
Associate Christ
|
Getting wifi notifications that your house is burning down may not be useful very often, but it's kind of a big deal when it does happen.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 22:12
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:Getting wifi notifications that your house is burning down may not be useful very often, but it's kind of a big deal when it does happen. Yeah, we ended up getting the Nest because of our dogs more than anything. If it weren't for them, I wouldn't care - Normal smoke alarms work fine if I am home, and if the house is empty, eh, I have insurance. But my PUPPIES  So now Nest will let me know if my dogs are on fire, and I can call the fire department before my neighbors may.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 22:57
|
|
|
Slugworth posted:Yeah, we ended up getting the Nest because of our dogs more than anything. If it weren't for them, I wouldn't care - Normal smoke alarms work fine if I am home, and if the house is empty, eh, I have insurance. You should consider a monitored alarm system. Then you can have someone actually dispatch the fire department for you. $10/mo or so if you install it yourself
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 23:00
|
|
|
http://consumerist.com/2015/02/16/nest-smoke-detectors-still-not-so-great-at-detecting-smoke/ Some things to consider when thinking about the Nest Smoke Detectors.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 23:22
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:Getting wifi notifications that your house is burning down may not be useful very often, but it's kind of a big deal when it does happen. Oh, of course, but the Roost battery wouldn't know that, would it?
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 23:48
|
|
|
It certainly makes that claim. I suspect it's not hard to detect the several order of magnitude increase in power consumption when the siren is sounding. Edit: 4 orders of magnitude, jumping from the range of 100 μW to ~1 W Zhentar fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Feb 19, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2015 23:54
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:It certainly makes that claim. I suspect it's not hard to detect the several order of magnitude increase in power consumption when the siren is sounding. :o well I should read better. It's definitely a neat idea.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 00:04
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:It certainly makes that claim. I suspect it's not hard to detect the several order of magnitude increase in power consumption when the siren is sounding. Better hope that it wasn't an overheating router causing the fire.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
Moving into a '99 Fleetwood 16'x80' mobile home this weekend, and have some questions about how much I can modify it. Specifically, knocking a doorway between the two lesser bedrooms to convert them to a suite, like so:  I doubt any interior walls of a trailer house are load-bearing, so it's probably safe enough to take a Sawzall to the closet wall, but do I need to pull a permit for that? In Texas if it matters, PM me for city if you care enough to actually look poo poo up. Resale value isn't a concern, I paid $7k and plan on living there for the foreseeable future. (Goth hobbit hole because the previous owner's teenage son painted it solid flat black with glow-in-the-dark star stickers on the ceiling.) Also it has loving carpet in the master bath. WTF? What's the easiest/cheapest option for DIY bathroom flooring? Any ideas for a door for the oddly-sized opening between the bedroom and bathroom?  I don't like the cat watching me poop.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 01:05
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
Delivery McGee posted:Moving into a '99 Fleetwood 16'x80' mobile home this weekend, and have some questions about how much I can modify it. Specifically, knocking a doorway between the two lesser bedrooms to convert them to a suite, like so: Any recent single wides, all the loads should be going to the outside walls of the home. Normally if you tear into the wall at a junction between an interior and exterior wall, you'll see they're totally separate entities. You may be able to even see by pulling down some of the crown molding, and you'll probably see where the ceiling sits on the interior wall. Vinyl is going to be your cheapest solution for flooring. You should still be able to get it in sheets. I think Lowe's has rolls you can custom cut lengths from. For the door, you could always do a louver door tract, unless you have some hosed up measurement on that door. Even still, you could leave them somewhat folded when you do it. Comedy option: Dual pocket doors. As for permits, you can always call your local building inspector. If you're tearing down walls, they'll probably say you do need a permit. Legally you probably do. I know around here nobody gives two shits about permits unless you have rear end in a top hat neighbors who will call the building inspector on you, or you're doing work that impacts the outside of the house.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 03:49
|
|
|
If I google "<name of town> permits" my first result is one click away from a detailed description of what I do and don't need permits for.Gothmog1065 posted:I know around here nobody gives two shits about permits unless you have rear end in a top hat neighbors who will call the building inspector on you, or you're doing work that impacts the outside of the house. On the other hand, if you do live somewhere like that the permit process probably isn't too arduous.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 06:06
|
|
|
Alright, so we were doing well with the IKEA cabinet installation until we hit a snag. Is it possible to re-use a screw hole? Because we got one wall's worth of cabinetry done, but then I was drilling these GRK 8 x 2"1/2 cabinet screws onto our second wall, but they wouldn't go all the way in. I borrowed a friend's higher-end stud finder, and it detected metal in the areas we've been drilling into. Looks like it's directly behind the wall stud. Here's a diagram of the situation:  I'm going to use some slightly shorter screws. But the problem is that we're using IKEA's cabinet rail system, and there's a wall perpendicular containing rails that it needs to line up to! At most, I can only change the pilot hole's location by a quarter of an inch. Our very precise rail placement means that we need to be drilling within the same area. So our options for a new pilot hole are extremely limited. So, is there a way to re-use a screw hole that's been put into a wall stud? If not, how far does the new pilot hole need to be from the existing one in order to be considered safe? Can I just break off epoxy in a bunch of bamboo skewers? melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Feb 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 06:14
|
|
|
If you are finding that the existing screw hole is too loose to be trusted you could always try using a #10 screw for a more snug fit.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 06:22
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:If I google "<name of town> permits" my first result is one click away from a detailed description of what I do and don't need permits for. (I live with Delivery McGee) Question about vinyl flooring: do you just stick that directly on the plywood floor or what?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 06:30
|
|
|
melon cat posted:So, is there a way to re-use a screw hole that's been put into a wall stud?
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 10:29
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Can I just break off epoxy in a bunch of bamboo skewers? "Fill it with wood glue and a bunch of toothpick" is indeed a time-honored tradition, in furniture repair at least. I'm not sure how it'd stand up for a wall-hangy thing.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 15:15
|
|
|
InediblePenguin posted:Unfortunately our city's website where all of that sort of information is archived was taken down after a week or two of DDOS attacks after Anonymous targeted it in retaliation for the cops shooting a teenaged white girl http://www.lowes.com/projects/bed-and-bath/Install-Sheet-Vinyl-Flooring/project I don't know how sheet vinyl prices compares with plank vinyl but I found the planks to be really easy to work with in a kitchen and bathroom. Either way, make sure the surface is very flat or you'll feel every little bump and dip after the vinyl is installed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 18:08
|
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:http://www.lowes.com/projects/bed-and-bath/Install-Sheet-Vinyl-Flooring/project There should be a vinyl putty that you can put down to smooth out those dips, and just sand/hammer the bumps.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 20:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 20:17 |
|
|
I'm back, and with an electrical question. I'm installing a new range hood extractor fan ('under the cabinet' type) as part of our kitchen reno. The instructions call for the use of a threaded strain relief connector. I assembled one, but I'm not sure which direction the connector should be once it's placed into the terminal box. I'm guessing that the half with the metal washer faces outwards from the range hood's terminal box?  NoSpoon posted:Can you get away with putting the screw in on an angle? As a bonus it'll save having to find a shorter screw. That's a possibility. But how far away does the new hole need to be from the old one? Because the area I'm drilling into is close to the ceiling, so my ability to drill at an angle is severely reduced. Delivery McGee posted:"Fill it with wood glue and a bunch of toothpick" is indeed a time-honored tradition, in furniture repair at least. I'm not sure how it'd stand up for a wall-hangy thing. melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Feb 20, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2015 23:15
|
|