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Slavvy posted:Have you noticed how everyone who wanders in here asking about what bike to buy gets discouraged from buying something ancient? This is why. Enjoy. I got a vehicle that - until now - ran pretty well when I had none for $300 and an old Xbox 360  I could spend a couple hundred and still be ahead. I'll grab pictures of the plugs during my lunch.
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Mar 6, 2015 20:09
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ReelBigLizard posted:I believe the correct term is Stoichiomancer. 
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Mar 6, 2015 21:15
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Wizard of Smart posted:I got a vehicle that - until now - ran pretty well when I had none for $300 and an old Xbox 360 I may be completely wrong here but it wouldn't hurt to inspect you whole exhaust to look for a cracked or rotten piece. I have an old Honda Xr600 and as the muffler rotted it got slowly louder and ran worse. I didn't think it was the pipe until it got bad enough to backfire and split. A new pipe and it was back to regular lovely performance.
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Mar 6, 2015 22:07
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Wizard of Smart posted:I got a vehicle that - until now - ran pretty well when I had none for $300 and an old Xbox 360 Behind. You'll be several hundred dollars and an old xbox behind 
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Mar 7, 2015 00:40
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Slavvy posted:Have you noticed how everyone who wanders in here asking about what bike to buy gets discouraged from buying something ancient? This is why. Enjoy. Except for the "It won't start" bit his issue sounds almost exactly like the new trick my ancient 2005 FZ6 just learned. No power, really bad idle, and a weird rattle/grumble coming from the motor when you give it throttle Coils are about the only thing I didn't think to put on my mental checklist for tomorrow. e: It's almost for sure going to be my battery making GBS threads out again. I left my heated grips on like an idiot a little while back.
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Mar 7, 2015 07:12
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Hey guys, quick question; I got my ZX10r back yesterday after having the fork seals replaced and today a mate of mine and myself were resetting them for my weight and we came across an issue; We noticed while testing how far they'd go down when I sat on the bike that they'd go down fine, but the forks took a long time to re-extend to their full (unweighted) length once my weight was off the bike. Slow as in I could hop off the bike and watch them slowly extend a bit more for a few seconds (2 - 3). The initial "rebound" was quick, maybe the 1st 5mm then the rest was very visually slow. We checked the rebound adjuster (the circled part in the below image) and it was very stiff to turn on the left hand fork (as sitting on the bike), while the right side one was very smooth and easy to turn.  Any ideas/thoughts? Is this something I can fix without having to take the bike back to the workshop? Have they just hosed up putting that fork back together?
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Mar 7, 2015 07:27
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Shimrod posted:Hey guys, quick question; If you have to ask...
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Mar 7, 2015 07:50
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Figured as much. Is this something I could possible check without having to drop the bike back at their workshop? It's a colossal pain in the rear end to do so.
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Mar 7, 2015 08:01
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Not unless you're willing to buy the tools needed to disassemble one of those with anything approaching ease, neatness or convenience. Plus if you gently caress with it yourself, and they've damaged something, it undermines your case for making them fix it because they hosed up.
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Mar 7, 2015 08:10
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zzz, oh well. I was hoping it might (more then likely) just be something that I could unscrew the top cap off and fix without having to take the forks off. Thanks.
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Mar 7, 2015 08:17
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Anyone have a good diagram of how a carb actually works and the different pieces that might need to be adjusted? The diagram on Wikipedia is good but I'm curious as to how it works in motion.
turn it up TURN ME ON fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Mar 7, 2015 |
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Mar 7, 2015 20:56
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SquadronROE posted:Anyone have a good diagram of how a carb actually works and the different pieces that might need to be adjusted? The diagram on Wikipedia is good but I'm curious as to how it works in motion. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uMAKyTvjqaQ This made a lot of sense to me recently.
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Mar 7, 2015 21:17
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Woah, yeah. That makes perfect sense. Thanks.
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Mar 7, 2015 21:25
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Came here to post exactly that, chrissakes.
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Mar 7, 2015 21:42
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Shimrod posted:Hey guys, quick question; They hosed up the rebound adjuster by not carefully measuring the appropriate amount of thread when reinstalling the fork cap. You need a fork tool to disassemble it. The reason it's slow to extend is they installed the fork cap too far down the cartridge rod, and now the needle is driven into the rebound tube in the middle of the forks, making the rebound adjuster is a closed system, rather than one that allows oil through depending on how far you have the needle pulled up. I'd ask them to replace the rebound needles, cause they probably ruined them by driving them into the rebound rod. If you'd like a more detailed explanation, I can sketch it out for you
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Mar 7, 2015 21:56
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Z3n posted:They hosed up the rebound adjuster by not carefully measuring the appropriate amount of thread when reinstalling the fork cap. You need a fork tool to disassemble it. The reason it's slow to extend is they installed the fork cap too far down the cartridge rod, and now the needle is driven into the rebound tube in the middle of the forks, making the rebound adjuster is a closed system, rather than one that allows oil through depending on how far you have the needle pulled up. Sounds like one of those things you know not because you're the smartest guy in the world, but because you've done it before.
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Mar 7, 2015 22:30
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kenny powerzzz posted:Sounds like one of those things you know not because you're the smartest guy in the world, but because you've done it before. Was warned about it, saw how it could happen, didn't do it. But nearly the same thing as doing it myself.
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Mar 7, 2015 23:00
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I've been having some issues with my 2005 FZ6 and I'm not sure what to try next. The bike has a hard time idling when warm (It's set to 1300-1400rpm but now it settles at 1000-1100), and it seems to make half the power it used to. The motor sounds like it's struggling really hard when you give it gas. I figured it might be the air filter since it's about 15kmi old now. So that was changed with a new K&N thing (it looked bad), I changed the spark plugs (all were dark and smelled like gas), and started it back up. It idled fine for a few minutes and settled down at about 1400rpm, but after cutting it off, getting a helmet/gloves, and turning it back on it immediately sat there at 1100 and sputtered at me. I took it around the block and it's still doing the same exact thing it was doing before. Now I'm back to square one. It still runs like complete poo poo. Ideas? e: This has been my (almost) daily commuter for a while now so it's not like the thing been sitting in a garage for 4 months with stale gas. I noticed it starting to have issues bogging under heavy throttle a few weeks ago, but that would go away after a second and it wouldn't do it again until a day or two later. Now it doesn't ever not-bog. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Mar 8, 2015 |
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Mar 8, 2015 02:44
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Is your valves adjusted correctly? throttle bodies synced? Perform a leakdown test?
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Mar 8, 2015 03:19
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Marxalot posted:I've been having some issues with my 2005 FZ6 and I'm not sure what to try next. After doing the basics as stated above, you might want to look into whether the bike has a fuel filter of any kind that might be clogged. Do yourself a favour and just drain and refill the tank anyway in case you have water building up around the pump. It might also be the fuel pump itself on the way out. If it starts to look like it might be, I'd suggest disconnecting the high pressure line going to the fuel rail, energise the pump somehow and have it pump out all the gas in the tank into a container. This will also give you an idea of how well the pump is working - if the fuel comes out in random spurts instead of a continuous stream, you know you're on the right track.
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Mar 8, 2015 03:39
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cursedshitbox posted:Is your valves adjusted correctly? No clue, but I shouldn't be due for a check for another 10kmi. They probably need it. No I haven't. Slavvy posted:*snip* Time to go buy more tools e: Good idea? http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0411-Syncpro-Carburetor/dp/B000K7JHWA Marxalot fucked around with this message at 08:41 on Mar 8, 2015 |
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Mar 8, 2015 06:10
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I really want an Aprilia Mana 850, automatic transmission be damned. I think they're sexy and I like the tank storage. Are there any "gotchas" to that model, or Aprilia in general?
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Mar 8, 2015 06:14
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Geirskogul posted:I really want an Aprilia Mana 850, automatic transmission be damned. I think they're sexy and I like the tank storage. Are there any "gotchas" to that model, or Aprilia in general? Well, it's Italian and has an automatic transmission, so probably everything goes wrong
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Mar 8, 2015 06:25
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They are apparently the worst bikes to work on ever, according to my local Aprilia guy.
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Mar 8, 2015 06:27
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Z3n posted:They are apparently the worst bikes to work on ever, according to my local Aprilia guy. It's a CVT with electronic control so it's going to be pretty alien to guys used to "normal" bikes. It's also a Gilera engine and gearbox rather than an Aprilia one, so even someone used to Aprilia and their wily ways is going to be confused. Besides I refuse to believe that any bike can be worse than a BMW boxer to work on. Having said that I've heard on the Aprilia forums that there were some pretty major reliability woes with the first few years (now allegedly fixed) and that service costs on the gearbox are insane.
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Mar 8, 2015 10:49
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I refuse to believe that any bike can be worse than a BMW boxer to work on.
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Mar 8, 2015 17:15
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I've read on some forums that, aside from the first few years having issues (2011+ should be fine) that the fit and finish is amazing, even on parts you don't see. I've also read that reliability is pretty good. I just wanted to see if there were any opinions by people who haven't dropped $7k on one, because those tend to be tainted by the "holy poo poo it's awesome because I'm now poor" feeling.
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Mar 8, 2015 17:20
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goddamnedtwisto posted:It's a CVT with electronic control so it's going to be pretty alien to guys used to "normal" bikes. It's also a Gilera engine and gearbox rather than an Aprilia one, so even someone used to Aprilia and their wily ways is going to be confused. Besides I refuse to believe that any bike can be worse than a BMW boxer to work on. Yeah, he had to do 2 gearboxes on them, which is enough to steer me away, but if those issues have been sorted, that's about the only problems I've heard on them. BMW boxers are fine to work on, just choose the more naked ones and only ever do valve adjustments and oil changes. NOTHING ELSE EVER.
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Mar 8, 2015 17:25
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Geirskogul posted:I've read on some forums that, aside from the first few years having issues (2011+ should be fine) that the fit and finish is amazing, even on parts you don't see. I've also read that reliability is pretty good. I just wanted to see if there were any opinions by people who haven't dropped $7k on one, because those tend to be tainted by the "holy poo poo it's awesome because I'm now poor" feeling. Fit and finish is always good on Aprilias - my Shiver is getting on for six years of all-weather commuting and sleeping outdoors and doesn't have a spot of corrosion on it (apart from the loving brake calipers). It's sometimes irritatingly good - installing my tail tidy was a knuckle-skinning nightmare because of how well routed and secured the cabling for it was. I seriously considered the Mana before getting the Shiver - the only thing that swung me towards the Shiver were the looks and that I hate the lag on centrifugal clutches. If you can cope with those two things *and* if there's a dealer near you then give it a go. Worst case scenario you get loads of anecdotes about Italian bikes.
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Mar 8, 2015 17:34
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so is there a good website with Ducati (Multistrada 620) information, similar to like GSTwins is? A downside of this new purcahse is I am having a hard time finding information on this thing. The user manual is HORRIBLE too. I had to dig around to figure out that the PO put the wrong tail light bulb in (6v vs 12v) and the drat manual didnt help me a whole lot with a replacement bulb. I have a lot of stupid questions about this thing that i'd love to read about rather than gumming up the works here. (For instance, there seems to be a hose that is specifically for pissing out some water/coolant after you stop. Whats up with that?) And gently caress it, I just love the dark look of this thing, so: 
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Mar 8, 2015 20:48
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nitrogen posted:so is there a good website with Ducati (Multistrada 620) information, similar to like GSTwins is? A downside of this new purcahse is I am having a hard time finding information on this thing. The user manual is HORRIBLE too. I have to say the Multistrada is the goofiest-looking motorcycle ever loving built, but if it blows your skirt up then god bless. The hose is probably the header tank vent but it shouldn't be pissing out - it's possible someone's overfilled it. In general make/model-specific forums are the best place to ask those sort of questions (or search for the answers before asking) but I think there's been a few Multistrada owners here so they might be able to help with specific problems.
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Mar 8, 2015 21:01
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Err, if your aircooled Multistrada 620 is pissing coolant out of a hose I think you've got some serious problems. E: I've been riding a Monster 620 for three years now and it shares most of the same parts. If you have any questions about valve adjustments, timing belt tensioning, or other maintenance stuff I'd be happy to help 
MonkeyNutZ fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Mar 8, 2015 |
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Mar 8, 2015 21:18
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nitrogen posted:so is there a good website with Ducati (Multistrada 620) information, similar to like GSTwins is? A downside of this new purcahse is I am having a hard time finding information on this thing. The user manual is HORRIBLE too. There are four fluids in your motorcycle: Gas, Oil, Brake fluid, and battery acid. Go through each one to see if it could be causing a leak. You can probably rule out brake fluid, unless the hose is somehow linked to the brake system. Is it part of the PCV-type system? Oil vapors combined with condensation look white and mayo-y. Is it gasoline from the intake tract? Or is it your alternator boiling the poo poo out of your battery, causing it to vent (some batteries have vent hoses)?
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Mar 8, 2015 22:32
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If the leak you're worried about is from the hose on the front left side of the engine case that's the fuel overflow line. You either overfilled the tank or there's a crack in the vent/overflow line inside your tank, an easy fix either way.
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Mar 8, 2015 22:42
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Geirskogul posted:There are four fluids in your motorcycle: Gas, Oil, Brake fluid, and battery acid. Handily these fluids have distinctly different flavours!
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Mar 8, 2015 23:12
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Handily these fluids have distinctly different flavours!* *: battery acid for experienced users only
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Mar 9, 2015 01:07
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MonkeyNutZ posted:If the leak you're worried about is from the hose on the front left side of the engine case that's the fuel overflow line. You either overfilled the tank or there's a crack in the vent/overflow line inside your tank, an easy fix either way. That's the one. It came filled from the shop so I will watch it when I fill it. It looks complex to fill vs my gs500 so I will probably overfill it too at least once.
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Mar 9, 2015 01:57
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Slavvy posted:*: battery acid for experienced users only The tangiest dipping sauce.
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Mar 9, 2015 02:29
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So I have been using soft saddle bags for camping and trips. I've also been overloading/mounting them poorly as evidenced by them rubbing my wheels (on one occasion) and pulling out the mounting straps at the seams. The sides of the bags were even pulling apart at the zip. Apart from just trying to find hard bags, is there any place I can get some kind of rack that will just sit over my rear seat and add support to the bags, so they aren't just hanging and tossing their weight around? That they have too much weight and they move too much is the problem I see, so if I had some support to keep them steady they should be okay. After my last trip repairing them is going to be a bitch but I'm a cheap motherfucker so if I could find some kind of rack and pay the tailor to sew me another few patches I can get some worthwhile time out of them. Yeah yeah I know buy a decent hard bag setup.
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Mar 9, 2015 07:16
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The phrase you're looking for is pannier frame, pannier rack, or luggage spacers. Doesn't look like there's anything that'll just grip your seat though, they'll bolt on to either your existing luggage rack or your frame or both.
Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Mar 9, 2015 |
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Mar 9, 2015 08:07
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