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taiyoko posted:Are you like 500 pounds or something? The directions on the page just say "verify that their weight limit is greater than your weight." I don't know why you'd need them to be able to hold 600 pounds if you're nowhere near that heavy. No, the second part of the instructional .pdf file says that the turnbuckles should be rated for at least double your weight, and that standard steel ones should be rated for around 800lbs. I figured 600lbs by adding a decent chunk to my weight and doubling it. So far I have everything but the sintra, and a couple of hard to find parts, turnbuckles included, ordered or bought. I've actually spent less than I budgeted for, which is good. I figure the sintra will probably eat most of the rest of the budget up though, unless the warehouse I'm going to tomorrow has it available.
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Mar 12, 2015 00:15
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Well, there goes my budget. I found turnbuckles in the size I needed, in a tougher material than zinc plated aluminum or whatever the hell the weak ones were, but I didn't realize they'd cost $25 a pop. At least I know they're going to hold my weight, since they're rated for something crazy like 1600lb or some poo poo. Yes, these were the cheapest ones I could find that weren't the lovely low-weight ones from Lowes. I'm actually almost done with my list of stuff. All I have left are nylon washers, tri-ring, and the sintra. I'm going to a shop tomorrow morning to hopefully get the washers and maybe the tri-ring, but I've still gotta find a decently priced supplier for the sintra. I have had some luck finding it online, by searching under "closed cell PVC foam board" instead, and one thing I'm noticing is that the price goes way way up as you increase the size of the boards. I'm wondering if there's any decent way to buy two half-size boards and attach them together. Does anyone have experience in that sort of thing? I figure I can probably bolt them together with brackets. I doubt there's any sort of glue that would work for this.
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Mar 12, 2015 21:34
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neogeo0823 posted:I doubt there's any sort of glue that would work for this. Foamed PVC is just that: PVC that is foamed, with nothing added but air. Grab a tiny can of PVC cement from the plumbing department of your local hardware store.
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Mar 12, 2015 22:22
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Holy gently caress there's transparent worbla now.
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Mar 12, 2015 23:57
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Holy gently caress there's transparent worbla now. I strongly suspect it's just PETG
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Mar 13, 2015 00:05
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Looks like a friend of mine can finally make the specific shape of Mr. Freeze's Arkham Asylum helmet now!
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Mar 13, 2015 00:46
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McPantserton posted:I strongly suspect it's just PETG Yeah, it looks pretty much exactly like what I used to make my Daft Punk helmet 
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Mar 13, 2015 11:19
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Unibrow posted:Foamed PVC is just that: PVC that is foamed, with nothing added but air. Grab a tiny can of PVC cement from the plumbing department of your local hardware store. But will it be able to withstand the same torsion/tension/compression forces that the PVC would be able to withstand? If so, then great. If so, with bracing from brackets, then ok. If not, then I still have a problem.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:31
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neogeo0823 posted:But will it be able to withstand the same torsion/tension/compression forces that the PVC would be able to withstand? Ideally, yes. PVC cement isn't like superglue or wood glue or contact cement; it's actually a solvent that turns the surface of the plastic into PVC goo, which chemically "welds" it with the plastic of the same type you smush it into. When the solvent evaporates, all that is left is the plastic you started with. It's kind of like heating the plastic edges with a torch until it's a goo, and then mushing them together, only we're doing it with chemicals instead of heat. When all is said and done, it's effectively one piece of plastic at the molecular level. I use Sintra for surface details, but have never stressed a welded joint to the point of breaking. I do want to put my money where my mouth is, so I just now glued up a couple small pieces. When it cures, I'll bend it 'till it breaks and see where the break line falls. Hopefully, though, you'd be making what you need from just one piece. Keep searching for 'foamed PVC' and 'expanded PVC'. Using their online calculator, the plastic place near me charges $25.50 for a 1/4" 2'x3' piece of foamed PVC shipped (not including shipping), and I know it's cheaper than that if I buy it in store. Shipping costs for sheet goods can be murder, so for the sake of your wallet I hope you can find a plastic place nearby. Unibrow fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Mar 14, 2015 |
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Mar 14, 2015 09:45
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Just ended a 72 hour workday trying to get a Thor costume ready. Passed out for 12 hours after duct taping a note saying "DO NOT WAKE, IN COOLDOWN" on my forehead, then crashing on the couch at work. Here's the vest in all it's blood, sweat, and superglue burns glory.
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Mar 14, 2015 19:40
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That is loving awesome
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Mar 14, 2015 20:58
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Agreed. Looks amazing!
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Mar 15, 2015 07:25
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I hope the full costume turns out alright considering I now have cold from exhaustion.
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Mar 15, 2015 13:47
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MajorGravy posted:Just ended a 72 hour workday trying to get a Thor costume ready. Passed out for 12 hours after duct taping a note saying "DO NOT WAKE, IN COOLDOWN" on my forehead, then crashing on the couch at work. Here's the vest in all it's blood, sweat, and superglue burns glory.  I don't think you'll have to worry about how the rest of the costume will turn out. Just uh, load up on vitamin C, Emergen-C if you can find it, and maybe one of those daily multi-vitamins and you should be pretty cold-proof. Unibrow posted:Ideally, yes. PVC cement isn't like superglue or wood glue or contact cement; it's actually a solvent that turns the surface of the plastic into PVC goo, which chemically "welds" it with the plastic of the same type you smush it into. When the solvent evaporates, all that is left is the plastic you started with. It's kind of like heating the plastic edges with a torch until it's a goo, and then mushing them together, only we're doing it with chemicals instead of heat. When all is said and done, it's effectively one piece of plastic at the molecular level. Yesterday, I was at the local makerspace for Pi Day celebrations, and I managed to run into a guy who works for a local sign shop, who can give me a quote tomorrow for some sintra. Given the dimensions of the two biggest pieces, your info could be incredibly handy to know if it turns out to be much cheaper to order 1'x1' sheets or something like that. Please do let me know how well your test pieces held up before breaking. Just to make sure, the chemically bonded parts of the two pieces should be fine to heat up and mold into a curve, right?
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Mar 15, 2015 15:37
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MajorGravy posted:I hope the full costume turns out alright considering I now have cold from exhaustion. I have definitely been there, last year I marathon finished my Khorne armor, went on a 2 week trip to New Zealand, came back and made the axe in like 3 days, went to the con, and promptly caught a sinus infection that lasted for a full month. Wee! The breastplate looks amazing though, absolutely fantastic work!
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Mar 15, 2015 20:04
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MajorGravy posted:Just ended a 72 hour workday trying to get a Thor costume ready. Passed out for 12 hours after duct taping a note saying "DO NOT WAKE, IN COOLDOWN" on my forehead, then crashing on the couch at work. Here's the vest in all it's blood, sweat, and superglue burns glory. Good lord that's incredible. Working off a template or just going by sight?
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Mar 15, 2015 23:39
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Free handed it cause I could only find templates for the first movie version, and from the first Avengers film. On another note, my cold is better, but my boss just dumped a huge project on me. Ultron. Time to ready the Redbull.
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Mar 16, 2015 16:28
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Ultron? The hell kinda job you got, anyway?
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Mar 16, 2015 17:39
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MajorGravy posted:Free handed it cause I could only find templates for the first movie version, and from the first Avengers film. On another note, my cold is better, but my boss just dumped a huge project on me. Please please please please take lots of photos showing the steps you take on this build. A buddy of mine has a mannequin he's looking to turn into a cyborg Superman and we are loving stumped on how to get the robot look going for the neck to the head, as well as how to do the armor plating vs the costume material.
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Mar 16, 2015 22:09
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Has anyone ever done megaman style armor before? I could use some advice on a costume I'm working on. I was wondering about the sleeves/boots. Would a chipboard+paper mache base work? And does anyone know how I might fasten the sleeves to bare skin? I'm worried spirit gum won't be sturdy enough.
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Mar 17, 2015 00:08
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I'm probably going to hate myself later but I am going to attempt to make this before September 12th.
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Mar 17, 2015 00:24
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Beekeeping and You posted:Has anyone ever done megaman style armor before? I could use some advice on a costume I'm working on. There are a couple of easy tutorials on the instructables website for mega man costumes.
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Mar 17, 2015 00:44
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neogeo0823 posted:Please do let me know how well your test pieces held up before breaking. Just to make sure, the chemically bonded parts of the two pieces should be fine to heat up and mold into a curve, right? Well, hmm. Joining foamed PVC end-to-end isn't as strong as I'd assumed, and I found I got better results using just PVC primer than using actual cement (primer is just thinned solvent, foam soaks it up better, cures faster). The tension strength was pretty good, and I couldn't pull the pieces straight apart. I was able to bend the glued piece fairly smoothly with a heat gun, with a little puckering around the joint. However the joint was still kind of gummy after a day of curing and was a little elastic when bent while cold.  The sad news is that the butt joint doesn't have a lot of surface area, so it eventually stretched and tore along the seam when flexing. There was a strong primer smell when the joint failed, which indicates the primer wasn't done curing in the middle of the joint after a couple days. I'm guessing the solvent just kind of 'hangs out' in the microscopic cavities of the foam, and never fully evaporates. In the end, I guess I can't recommend gluing two pieces of foamed PVC together to make a bigger structural piece that would flex. If I was in a real pinch and had no other option, I would try to increase the surface area of the joint using a scarf joint or finger joint, or gluing another strip of foamed PVC over the top of the joint to reinforce it.
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Mar 17, 2015 01:51
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Well hey, that's a lot of good research there, thanks. Earlier today, I found a sintra seller on ebay that let me pick the exact size and number of sheets I wanted, with free shipping no less, and that ended up costing me just over $50, which is about where I was budgeting that at. The cheapest local seller here is a custom sign shop that quoted me $75 for the same stuff. Now I just have to wait and hope it doesn't take the projected week it might take to ship up here.
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Mar 17, 2015 03:37
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neogeo0823 posted:Ultron? The hell kinda job you got, anyway? We make costumes for movie premieres and roadshows! And visit charities, do parties, and other stuff in the meantime. But mostly I do stuff like this for fun. 
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Mar 17, 2015 04:23
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MajorGravy posted:We make costumes for movie premieres and roadshows! And visit charities, do parties, and other stuff in the meantime. But mostly I do stuff like this for fun. I both hate and envy you to a recognizably unhealthy degree.   In other news, I've got just one last thing to find for my stilts and I'll have all the materials I need. It's this plastic buckle...ring... thing...? The parts list labels it as Tri-Ring, but that's obviously not what it is. It's also not D-Ring. I don't necessarily need whatever I get to look exactly like that, but I do know I need it to be 1.5 inches wide, and have a closed loop to put a bolt through it. If anyone can give me a name to google around for to find this thing, or any kind of direction at all, I'd be very appreciative.
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Mar 17, 2015 15:35
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neogeo0823 posted:I both hate and envy you to a recognizably unhealthy degree. Found this on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Spare-Parts-Plastic-Buckle-Backpack/dp/B00ARB4GBG/ref=pd_sim_ac_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=11BZ7E17SGVMCX5JM729 It's close to what you're looking for. Not sure how much load that piece can take. If you need the thing to carry more weight, you could just use a metal D-Ring and then fold over a piece of steel or aluminum that you could drill though for the bolt.
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Mar 17, 2015 16:16
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fallin1 posted:I'm probably going to hate myself later but I am going to attempt to make this before September 12th. good luck, I really like the arkham knight's design and it'd be cool to see a good cospaly of it.
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Mar 17, 2015 18:41
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Monaghan posted:good luck, I really like the arkham knight's design and it'd be cool to see a good cospaly of it. First attempt at pepakura too so it's probably going to be a hot mess.
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Mar 17, 2015 20:25
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neogeo0823 posted:I both hate and envy you to a recognizably unhealthy degree. check this place http://www.strapworks.com/default.asp
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Mar 17, 2015 20:30
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Currently working on a Jacket from Hotline Miami costume. Already ordered the acid-washed jeans and the Rooster Mask and I own a pair of high-top converses, next step is the brown with yellow sleeves letterman jacket and the tape recorder (preferrably with a speaker built in and a line-in recording jack so I can take the lines ripped from Payday 2 and stick it on the Tape Recorder). There was a perfect Jacket jacket at Insert Coin, but unfortunately, it's sold out. Hopefully it'll be good to go before next con. Anyone have any suggestions for a tape recorder with the built-in speaker and the line-in recording jack?
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Mar 19, 2015 23:52
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Currently working on a Jacket from Hotline Miami costume. Sup hotline miami cosplay buddy  I don't really have any advice, since me and my brother are cosplaying alex and ash. They don't really have any issues talking.
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Mar 21, 2015 15:19
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Picked up my bow yesterday, and with one last snow storm in the forecast, I was able to do one more shoot of my costume in the snow.
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Mar 21, 2015 23:22
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Pagan posted:Picked up my bow yesterday, and with one last snow storm in the forecast, I was able to do one more shoot of my costume in the snow. That is an insanely badass photo.
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Mar 22, 2015 06:14
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Whoa. Nice work.
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Mar 22, 2015 16:18
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Beekeeping and You posted:Sup hotline miami cosplay buddy True, but on the other hand, it'd be fantastic to show up with the tape recorder to at least do some lines with it for people.
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Mar 22, 2015 22:05
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Pagan posted:Picked up my bow yesterday, and with one last snow storm in the forecast, I was able to do one more shoot of my costume in the snow. Oh wow.
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Mar 23, 2015 04:32
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Pagan posted:Picked up my bow yesterday, and with one last snow storm in the forecast, I was able to do one more shoot of my costume in the snow. This is awesome. I can't really tell, bit that appears to be a pretty solid recurve rather than a pure prop bow, which makes it even better.
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Mar 23, 2015 09:38
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That shot was my girlfriend's idea, so she deserves the credit. I just can't believe that's me. I'm a computer geek, but I somehow look like I'm in a movie poster. My goal with this costume is to do everything "real." I'm trying not to use props or fake things unless I can't help it. So real wool fabric, real leather, etc. The bow is a 40 lb recurve. It's made of modern materials, but since I plan on bowhunting with it, I couldn't afford two bows. Better shot of the bow and accessories.  Pagan fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 12:29
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Pagan posted:That shot was my girlfriend's idea, so she deserves the credit. I just can't believe that's me. I'm a computer geek, but I somehow look like I'm in a movie poster. Its been a long time since I've done anything with bows, but isn't 40lb draw a bit light for hunting? There is an archery thread over in TFR too if you're interested
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Mar 24, 2015 03:34
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