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I found time this weekend to panel line and then add some simple weathering to the corsair. This is all still super gloss beware. Going to work on canopy, prop and details next then matt everything down. Pic dump incoming! What do you think? I'm fairly happy with how it's turning out.        
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Mar 29, 2015 23:34
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berzerkmonkey posted:Casting is ok, recasting, not so much. What do you mean "downsize?" As in reduce the scale? Basically I'm trying to down size a scarab model by like 50% to 75% or more I'm not trying to sell it or anything else I'm doing it for a diorama because I want to try and have a big modeling project for the next few months to work on and relax , I want see how far down and how small I can make it with recasting because I want tiny scarabs and my sculpting skills are not really that great. I mean I cna sort of sculpt them myself but they really don't come out how I want. I'd also though of possibly 3D printing smaller tiny models but that's a whole nother thing. My idea is that with the Scarabs I do have I'll be able to make a "wave" out of these smaller Scarabs and form them into a "wave" that the larger scarabs would be riding in part of the diorama and base. I'm using a flying base as the diorama so like my flight stands would be dioramas. Just a big giant project to invest time in. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 23:52
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big_g the weathering on that plane looks fantastic! Finished Autek Mor for my 30K Iron hands:    Gotta paint some myrmidions first, sooo many cables...
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Mar 30, 2015 00:00
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Dat axe. Super sweet.
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Mar 30, 2015 00:12
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big_g posted:Awesome plane stuff I want to mash some sort of like button 1000 times for this. Also I made some kind of weird sex noise when I opened the page and saw your post.
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Mar 30, 2015 00:27
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big_g posted:I found time this weekend to panel line and then add some simple weathering to the corsair. This is all still super gloss beware. This looks loving dope. That looks like an appropriately weathered plane that's definitely seen some poo poo but gotten out in one piece.
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Mar 30, 2015 00:28
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big_g posted:I found time this weekend to panel line and then add some simple weathering to the corsair. This is all still super gloss beware. I usually hate anything gloss but I have to say, that looks great even with the glossy sheen. Really good job.
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Mar 30, 2015 00:34
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big_g posted:What do you think? I'm fairly happy with how it's turning out. Love it anytime you post. Group shot of your plane collection?
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Mar 30, 2015 01:42
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big_g posted:I found time this weekend to panel line and then add some simple weathering to the corsair. This is all still super gloss beware. Hollismason posted:Basically I'm trying to down size a scarab model by like 50% to 75% or more I'm not trying to sell it or anything else I'm doing it for a diorama because I want to try and have a big modeling project for the next few months to work on and relax , I want see how far down and how small I can make it with recasting because I want tiny scarabs and my sculpting skills are not really that great. I mean I cna sort of sculpt them myself but they really don't come out how I want. I'd also though of possibly 3D printing smaller tiny models but that's a whole nother thing. Terminator question: I'm thinking about taking the DV DA Terminators and modding them to have lightning claws and Thunder Hammers/Storm Shields for use in Space Hulk. Looking at the DA Terminator box set on GW's site though, it appears there is only one Thunder Hammer and one set of Lightning Claws in there. Is that correct, or is GW just not showing all of the sprues in the box?
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Mar 30, 2015 01:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:Dayummm. That is really sweet, man. There's only one set of Lightning Claws and one Thunder Hammer, but lots of storm shields. If you just want bits, I'll gladly send you my leftovers - I built Deathwing Knights but didn't use anything else. One of the most common requests I've gotten for my Ultramarines army is a Chaplain to lead the force. I figured why stop at one when I can have two!       Not pictured: The multiple coats of blackish blue I painted these models in that doesn't photograph well at all. I did the old 'Eavy Metal thing of mixing Regal Blue and black and mixing in more and more Space Wolves Grey for highlights, but it didn't show up too well. Also my printer broke so I couldn't print out the Chaplain's banner. Ah well!
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Mar 30, 2015 02:24
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berzerkmonkey posted:Terminator question: I'm thinking about taking the DV DA Terminators and modding them to have lightning claws and Thunder Hammers/Storm Shields for use in Space Hulk. Looking at the DA Terminator box set on GW's site though, it appears there is only one Thunder Hammer and one set of Lightning Claws in there. Is that correct, or is GW just not showing all of the sprues in the box? That is correct, yes. If you want to have more than one of each you're going to have to grab the assault terminator set or trawl ebay for bitz. You could also convert some TH/SS using the Deathwing Knight maces and any hammer-headed bitz you got kicking around (or just leave them as-is).
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Mar 30, 2015 03:19
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I used to paint minis years ago and have been mostly doing scale models for the past couple years. I've had the urge recently to work on minis again especially since my tool and skill set has greatly expanded since the last time I did a minis. Looking at the prices of GW's stuff just about made me poo poo my pants though. For the price of a single "command unit" army man I could pick up an imported 1/35 scale Tamiya tank that would take weeks to work on. Is GW making their kits and minis out of polymerized cocaine? Is there a source of good quality fantasy style miniatures that I could work on that won't completely bust the bank for a few ounces of polystyrene? I'm pretty out of the loop when it comes to mini manufacturers these days.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:48
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berzerkmonkey posted:Dayummm. That is really sweet, man. I thought specifically there was in fact a substance that you could cast in that reduced in size after a while. I thought this was how miniatures could be sculpted at a larger scale then downcast. I'm pretty sure it exists... Sauer posted:I used to paint minis years ago and have been mostly doing scale models for the past couple years. I've had the urge recently to work on minis again especially since my tool and skill set has greatly expanded since the last time I did a minis. Looking at the prices of GW's stuff just about made me poo poo my pants though. For the price of a single "command unit" army man I could pick up an imported 1/35 scale Tamiya tank that would take weeks to work on. Is GW making their kits and minis out of polymerized cocaine? Is there a source of good quality fantasy style miniatures that I could work on that won't completely bust the bank for a few ounces of polystyrene? I'm pretty out of the loop when it comes to mini manufacturers these days. Well it's a good time to get back in if you want to paint miniatures, Reaper just released a fairly inexpensive miniature line Bone, and do to 3d printers, developements in casting technologies there are more 3rd party or independent miniature companies than you can shake a stick at. You should check out this range of miniatures from Reaper. http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones A fantastic range, diverse, and well done. I recommend them and Goons go nuts over them. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 03:49
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Sauer posted:I used to paint minis years ago and have been mostly doing scale models for the past couple years. I've had the urge recently to work on minis again especially since my tool and skill set has greatly expanded since the last time I did a minis. Looking at the prices of GW's stuff just about made me poo poo my pants though. For the price of a single "command unit" army man I could pick up an imported 1/35 scale Tamiya tank that would take weeks to work on. Is GW making their kits and minis out of polymerized cocaine? Is there a source of good quality fantasy style miniatures that I could work on that won't completely bust the bank for a few ounces of polystyrene? I'm pretty out of the loop when it comes to mini manufacturers these days. Do you actually want to play a war game or just paint some tiny mans?
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Mar 30, 2015 03:51
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I just like painting little things.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:53
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I think he just wants to pain Fantasy Miniatures, so I'd say Bones from Reaper is the best bang for the buck and quality out there. Follow my post in the previous one to Reaper mini, it's fantastic stuff.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:54
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Sauer posted:I used to paint minis years ago and have been mostly doing scale models for the past couple years. I've had the urge recently to work on minis again especially since my tool and skill set has greatly expanded since the last time I did a minis. Looking at the prices of GW's stuff just about made me poo poo my pants though. For the price of a single "command unit" army man I could pick up an imported 1/35 scale Tamiya tank that would take weeks to work on. Is GW making their kits and minis out of polymerized cocaine? Is there a source of good quality fantasy style miniatures that I could work on that won't completely bust the bank for a few ounces of polystyrene? I'm pretty out of the loop when it comes to mini manufacturers these days. Reaper Bones are cheap but the material is weird, Reaper metals are still cheap and don't have the issues of the Bones minis. Mantic has some good stuff but I don't know how available it is or in what numbers or if they are in a wide enough variety for your needs. There are loads more as a bunch of companies have just showed up due to kickstarter but other goons will need to point those out for you.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:54
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I've had no issue with the Bones miniatures, I dunno what you mean by weird? Just seems normal to me after I prime them.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:55
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If you're not looking to play a game then I don't think you can do much better for cheap fantasy mans to paint than Reaper Bones, at least to try a couple and see if you want to continue painting more tiny mans. They makes some huge, some small. e:f,b Bonesium is a little weird but I really can't see a better idea for trying out painting some minis to see if you're going to enjoy it.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:55
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Yeah those are exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks bros. Edit: But seriously how high do you get if you grind up and snort a GW mini?
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Mar 30, 2015 03:56
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You only get high as titties, Also I recommend the Dragons from the Bone series and all the really big stuff it's relatively cheap and easy going when it comes to painting. You'll have a lot of fun especially with the bigger models. They're great.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:02
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Hollismason posted:I've had no issue with the Bones miniatures, I dunno what you mean by weird? Just seems normal to me after I prime them. It is rubbery and can be real pain in the rear end with floppy weaponry. No biggie, but that and the no spray primer thing is weird compared to hard plastic or metal minis.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:13
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Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed?
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Mar 30, 2015 04:17
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Sauer posted:Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed? Bonesium. If you look at the reaper forums you can learn the dos and don'ts about working with it.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:21
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Sauer posted:Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed? There's a FAQ on that website, I don't care what they say I always prime with a super thin coat. It's a good material but as stated super thin things like spears can come bent but it's like a few seconds to fix that with some hot water and cold water. I've personally never had any issues with it.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:31
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Sauer posted:Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed? It's PVC. Yeah some people are huge Bones shills. It's OK for some stuff but TBH painting isn't one of them. It's a really durable material and its cheap as hell so they make great gaming minis for RPGs and such but if you're looking to paint things just to have pieces to show off then pay the extra two dollars to get them in metal because the difference is pretty huge. There are figures that weren't recasts of existing things but were sculpted to be Bones and those are much better TBH, but the detail is still really soft and such. I'd compare it to the difference between a well made kids army man like Schleich or Britains and an actual historical 54mm or 1/31 figure. For instance they make a bones Orc with a two handed sword. Great figure. But I've painted the metal and bones version and while one is 3 dollars as opposed to 9, that six bucks is worth it if you're painting miniatures for the sake of painting. If you're doing it because you want a gang of orcs for next Wednesdays gaming night or something then Bones is better because you'll get three of them for the price of one but if you're actually looking to paint good miniatures then choose based on sculpts not on value. Reaper has a ton of great metal models in the sub-12 dollar range, I've painted a lot of them. For individual figure recommendations I'd also look at Enigma, Dark Sword, and Smart Max. If you decide to get into single fantasy figure painting I will warn you, GW is pretty crazy but not as crazy as "real" models. "Good" 54mm display figures can be easily 30+ dollars each, much like there is a big range of cost in Historical kits.
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Mar 30, 2015 07:22
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Hollismason posted:I thought specifically there was in fact a substance that you could cast in that reduced in size after a while. I thought this was how miniatures could be sculpted at a larger scale then downcast. Cheap moulds may shrink a few percent, maybe you're confusing it with that? On the "sculpt larger" front, you are probably thinking about the old way GW did their plastics. They would sculpt a 3up version, and shrink it with with a mechanical device connected to a lathe like device. Edit: Oh ok, I guess stuff have happended since I looked into this. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 10:32 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 08:42
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big_g posted:I found time this weekend to panel line and then add some simple weathering to the corsair. This is all still super gloss beware. This is looking awesome as all hell. I'm teetering on the edge of getting some scale models to paint up, to sort of go along with my fledging Bolt Action Soviet army (specifically, thinking of grabbing a Yak-3 at some point), and seeing stuff like this makes me want to do one up right away.  El Estrago Bonito posted:if you're looking to paint things just to have pieces to show off then pay the extra two dollars to get them in metal Can't second this enough. I am not a fan of the Bones material at all and would recommend always getting the metal figure over the PVC Bones version. Reaper makes some great minis and I will always highly recommend them, I just don't care for Bones for a variety of reasons. It's the same with figures made in "restic" as opposed to those in resin or metal or plastic, I find the latter three far more preferable to work with than the PVC or "restic" stuff.
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Mar 30, 2015 09:31
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Hollismason posted:I thought specifically there was in fact a substance that you could cast in that reduced in size after a while. I thought this was how miniatures could be sculpted at a larger scale then downcast. It does exist, it's called HydroShrink/Span, or contracting/expanding hydromorph. Basically it's a resin-y stuff that contracts with curing, or expands when you so it in water. It's quite expensive - you can see here - http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk/catalogue/ProductList/casting-modelling-materials?catalogueLevelItemId=85d98a96-c384-4148-904c-da9ac3bbfbbf - but you might be able to find it cheaper from a wholesaler. I've never used it for modelling - from what understand there's a lot of faffing about with prototyping - but there's a pretty decent tutorial here: http://www.ironcowprod.com/resizing-parts-using-hydrospan/.
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Mar 30, 2015 10:22
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Its not going to do what he wants it to do. He needs to ask someone nicely to send him a 3d model of one he can get printed by shapeways.
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Mar 30, 2015 11:14
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Yeah print 3 different ones and make a one-sided greenstuff press-mould.
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Mar 30, 2015 11:58
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Sauer posted:Edit: But seriously how high do you get if you grind up and snort a GW mini? ironically probably not high enough to think GW prices are sane and good
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Mar 30, 2015 12:32
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I'll email the company and see what their thoughts on it are that Hydrospan after some researching seems to do alright with small models and reducing the size by 60% , the alternative of getting them printed to me at least seems more cost prohibitive, along with the fact that I need a 3D file. I'll try and find a smaller amount of the stuff for sale and mess around with it. The model itself is not very detailed. Okay thanks for the help this will be a good project.
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Mar 30, 2015 14:06
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WINNERSH TRIANGLE posted:It does exist, it's called HydroShrink/Span, or contracting/expanding hydromorph. Basically it's a resin-y stuff that contracts with curing, or expands when you so it in water. It's quite expensive - you can see here - http://www.mindsetsonline.co.uk/catalogue/ProductList/casting-modelling-materials?catalogueLevelItemId=85d98a96-c384-4148-904c-da9ac3bbfbbf - but you might be able to find it cheaper from a wholesaler. That is the coolest thing I have ever seen, Beavis. Too bad the shrinkage isn't more accurate - "up to" 60% doesn't make it too useful when you need to be certain of scale.
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Mar 30, 2015 14:42
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Yeah but since I'm just concerned mainly with making them smaller I don't think it's that a issue. I just wanna see how small I can make them, plus with a model that doesn't have a detailed figure, I think it'll be alright. I know something like that existed, I just could not for the life of me remember the name. Still looking around for some better prices but it's not that expensive anyway.
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Mar 30, 2015 14:49
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Cool, keep us updated!
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Mar 30, 2015 15:08
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Had the chance to sit down and go busting out with the airbrush setup this weekend finally--and after running through a few tests with water and then paint with cardboard and paper towels, decided to take a stab at the giant pile of orcs that came streaming in with Reaper Bones back a ways. I can definitely see it's going to take a fair bit of practice to get a hang of the feel of things (and the right consistency of paint to airbrush medium) and can already feel myself hankering for getting a set of Vallejo Air paint, but all-in-all I can also certainly see why folks really dig airbrush painting--especially for belting out multiple miniatures. I was able to get the base skin and some rough highlighting for six orcs in about an hour. It dawned on me after the fact (particularly because it was suddenly very visible) that I had forgotten to do any mold-line removal or cleanup on the little buggers beforehand. D'oh. My biggest quarrel so far was operating the dual action on the airbrush--though I suspect a large part of that is probably directly related to my paint / medium mixing, e.g. I'd not get much in the way of noticeable paint but then get paint that quickly rippled from the air flow. That may also be the PSI adjustment too; I'd endeavored to thin the paint with the medium to a roughly milky / creamy consistency beforehand.
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Mar 30, 2015 15:48
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Oh and speaking of just insane things, how crazy would it be to paint a miniature using Watercolour pencils then a light spray of Zest it to dissolve the wax to blend. To late I already bought a full set of water colours and zest it because I am a crazy person.GaistHeidegger posted:Had the chance to sit down and go busting out with the airbrush setup this weekend finally--and after running through a few tests with water and then paint with cardboard and paper towels, decided to take a stab at the giant pile of orcs that came streaming in with Reaper Bones back a ways. I can definitely see it's going to take a fair bit of practice to get a hang of the feel of things (and the right consistency of paint to airbrush medium) and can already feel myself hankering for getting a set of Vallejo Air paint, but all-in-all I can also certainly see why folks really dig airbrush painting--especially for belting out multiple miniatures. This sounds like two possible situations 1. It's a compressor problem and you're getting a uneven flow of air. 2. It's a paint problem and your paint may need a thinner added to it. I would try the 2nd first and see what the results are and for the first you can actually get a gauge I think that measures super accurately for your flow. I will try and find the one I have and list it. It's more accurate than the tank read out some times and measures the pressure at the end of the hose. Like for example you don't know it but you are getting irregular flow because you have a small leak somewhere or something like that etc... Also you may be letting it just sit there to long or something. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 16:09
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GaistHeidegger posted:My biggest quarrel so far was operating the dual action on the airbrush--though I suspect a large part of that is probably directly related to my paint / medium mixing, e.g. I'd not get much in the way of noticeable paint but then get paint that quickly rippled from the air flow. That may also be the PSI adjustment too; I'd endeavored to thin the paint with the medium to a roughly milky / creamy consistency beforehand. Yeah no matter how much you thin or don't thin the paint, if you leave the airbrush in place for too long and get a build-up of paint, you have a very good chance of rippling up and spreading the paint from successive passes with the air. If you do that when you're priming it's not a big deal, but it's a huge deal if you're doing the final blends on a big model, or you're trying to get a super smooth surface. You don't always need to thin the paint down to the viscosity of skimmed milk, in fact I think for most purposes if it's airbrush-ready paint and you're using a large needle (0.4 or 0.5mm) at 25-30 psi you barely have to thin it down. If you do thin it down, you get much smoother blends, but if all you're doing is base coating you don't need to worry about this.
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Mar 30, 2015 16:10
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He could also be getting a good read out on the compressor but there may be a small leak somewhere in the hose or in a ring or something like that which is reducing the pressure or giving irregular pressure. Voted disassemble, clean, check hose etc.. then thin paints and see what results are.
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Mar 30, 2015 16:16
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