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Actually there may be a cheaper way , you could call up the hardware store and tell them that you need a piece of glossy white vinyl floor covering but you only need a poster board size and see if they have any "left over" that they'd just give you. Usually this is the case because someone will have a weird cut or whatever and they'll have left over pieces or you could buy it. This stuff is usually dirt cheap. You can get it usually at a discount, then spray paint a grid on that with Spray Paint and use that as a gaming pad. As long as you use erasable markers that should be fine to use on it. How big of a mat? This stuff is pretty pliable and usually rolls up pretty easily. Side Note : When I was a Roadie for Tool, part of the set dressing was us every night rolling this poo poo out on stage , then we'd have to mop it because the band would make if filthy and then roll it back up. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 02:50
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I definitely want something I can roll up when not using so probably not going to try getting a big board or something, but might try vinyl if its actually fold-able without damaging it I want a 'big' 3x4 piece I can use for general encounters, then smaller peices for like taverns and dungeon corridors and poo poo that's why I thought of getting contact paper, could just cut a big 3x4 piece then lots of smaller pieces, they tend to come in big wrapping paper rolls too
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Apr 6, 2015 02:56
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You won't be able to fold it but it lays pretty flat and you can easily cut it up and it already is going to come with a surface that you can wipe erasable marker off of. This is actually all a dry erase board is usually made out of just a high glossy vinyl glued onto usually some thin particle board. Rolling it up depends really on how thick it is it can warp when rolled up but usually they lay flat.
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Apr 6, 2015 03:07
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I finished a thing: an Italeri Ostwind with Academy tracks, in 1:35th scale as always. 
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Apr 6, 2015 05:35
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X posting from the 40K thread.BULBASAUR posted:Remember when I posted bad cell phone pictures of my models? Well, I finally re-took them using my DSLR setup. None of these have any post-effects. Despite that, it's basically a transmogrification. I also started a lovely blog if you're into bad puns. All my tutorials, image dumps, and libertarian rants are there- so you don't have to dig through my post history (lets face it, nobody wants to dig through 100 pages of BULBASAUR poo poo posts).
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Apr 6, 2015 08:08
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Moola posted:I definitely want something I can roll up when not using so probably not going to try getting a big board or something, but might try vinyl if its actually fold-able without damaging it Just buy one. It's like £15 delivered to your door for 3 huge ones http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/16012555...969R7422GWA6TW8
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Apr 6, 2015 09:24
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BULBASAUR posted:X posting from the 40K thread. God I love your stuff so much. I've been meaning to ask, where did those drum-mag bolters come from? I mixed up a nice shade of sea-green and am painting up a tester...
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Apr 6, 2015 13:43
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I don''t know if this is the right place for these, and it's a little late for Easter, but I used my warham paints to make these so...  Painting on eggs is actually pretty fun. Also, my ingenious painty-egg holding device: 
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Apr 6, 2015 14:40
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Chill la Chill posted:Thanks for the link. I looked at a similar one that I might get. At least the zipper enclosure is kinda like my current brush case. Give the brushes to my little cousins. You do know this is probably like 14-16 inches long right? Those are full-sized brushes. Chill la Chill posted:Hi guys, I'm in need of one of these cuz I'm getting a couple new brushes. Do any of you know what it's called? Apparently painting case isn't the name for these things. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 15:23
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QuasarInfinity posted:I don''t know if this is the right place for these, and it's a little late for Easter, but I used my warham paints to make these so... Check this for some Romanian woman painting eggs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZcx5TTtdfY
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Apr 6, 2015 16:13
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berzerkmonkey posted:It's a bracelet gift box. And this is a brilliant idea - I've been looking for something to transport brushes without damaging them.
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Apr 6, 2015 16:23
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Moola posted:that's why I thought of getting contact paper, could just cut a big 3x4 piece then lots of smaller pieces, they tend to come in big wrapping paper rolls too Contact paper has adhesive on the back, it will stick to itself if you roll it up and gather lint/dust/fur/cheetos dust if you somehow did use it. Folding or rolling rarely work: folds make creases that models wobble on, rolling tends to never lie flat (people in this thread have mentioned that new mats actually work properly now, though).
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Apr 6, 2015 16:58
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I won something like this at Nova 2012: It came with a bunch of Series 7's. It's pretty useful and you should be able to find one at an art store.
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Apr 6, 2015 19:29
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I throw mine in the back pocket of my rucksack cos I'm a pro
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Apr 6, 2015 19:31
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Post 9-11 User posted:Contact paper has adhesive on the back, it will stick to itself if you roll it up and gather lint/dust/fur/cheetos dust if you somehow did use it. Folding or rolling rarely work: folds make creases that models wobble on, rolling tends to never lie flat (people in this thread have mentioned that new mats actually work properly now, though). yeah Im going to stick the contact paper to something probably just gonna get some card, draw a grad with a ruler then contact paper over the top cost so far £1.49 ghetto as gently caress
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Apr 6, 2015 20:22
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If you're going that ghetto (drawing it by hand) go see if you can get some spare vinyl sheet from a signprinting shop. You might be able to find some odd cuttings or some misprint stuff. You could get a good deal if you're charming enough, but who am I kidding, you're a goon. edit: I just realized you probably meant that you are probably planning to use corrugated cardboard under the contact paper... That seems like it would be a pain in the rear end to transport... Cyberpunkey Monkey fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Apr 6, 2015 |
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Apr 6, 2015 20:31
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osirisisdead posted:If you're going that ghetto (drawing it by hand) go see if you can get some spare vinyl sheet from a signprinting shop. You might be able to find some odd cuttings or some misprint stuff. You could get a good deal if you're charming enough, but who am I kidding, you're a goon. I am in fact, very charming and used to work for a silk screen printing press, so might try this thanks
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Apr 6, 2015 21:11
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Post 9-11 User posted:Folding or rolling rarely work: folds make creases that models wobble on, rolling tends to never lie flat (people in this thread have mentioned that new mats actually work properly now, though). osirisisdead posted:edit: I just realized you probably meant that you are probably planning to use corrugated cardboard under the contact paper... That seems like it would be a pain in the rear end to transport... ffs...
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Apr 6, 2015 21:35
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Moola posted:I am in fact, very charming and used to work for a silk screen printing press, so might try this The kind of heavy vinyl from a signprinting shop can be rolled up and still sits flat. We used something like this. 
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Apr 6, 2015 21:53
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that looks neat
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Apr 6, 2015 21:54
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The one we used had hexgrid on one side and regular boring grid on the other.
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Apr 6, 2015 21:55
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Sulecrist posted:God I love your stuff so much. I've been meaning to ask, where did those drum-mag bolters come from? Thanks man, I’m glad people like them  Those drums are all Anvil industries. They make pretty good bolter accessories and the drums work good. I got the whole chain + drum mag idea from Dark Vengeance and just rolled with it. Take pics of that HH stuff. If you want help with a sea green recipe hit me up!
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Apr 6, 2015 22:00
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well I already bought the contact paper so gonna try something with that maybe cut some card into A4 sections for ease of storing, then I can set them up side by side for bigger areas
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Apr 6, 2015 22:02
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What do you guys use to prep terrain? I finished a formation of epic space marines (6 bases, so 30 marines) this weekend, and painted a dreadnaught and a pair of vindicators, but now I need terrain for them to fight on. (Pictures eventually - I tried to take some this weekend but my light was wonky or I'm bad at cameras and everything came out dark and red. Maybe I need to use a tripod or something.) I realize that 6mm terrain is probably pretty different than 28mm terrain, but I think some of you might have some experience. Once I get some green, brown, and blue paint, (UGH I NEED ALL THE PAINT) I was thinking of doing three things, largely based off this guy's advice. One, getting some paintable caulk and prepping some roads and rivers. I think doing that on wax paper and setting up six-inch or foot-long sections of road and river seems really handy. If I steal some kitty litter from a friend I can probably make some fords too. Two, getting some foam core and making some hills. I imagine if I stack two sheets on top of each other that's a reasonable height hill for 6mm work? Then it's just exacto-ing them into the right shape. Three, I really like the forests that guy did. Again, it'll take two sheets of foamcore, but it looks like he uses toothpick segments to prop the second sheet up, and uses the second sheet as a tree canopy. Then he tops the canopy with a bunch of foliage foam fluff crap that's been hot-glued on, maybe paints stuff as necessary (I imagine mostly the trunks?), and calls it good. Have any of you tried doing that? Also, where do you get foliage fluff in the US? Do I have to spend exorbitant amounts of money at Michaels or is there something more reasonable?
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Apr 6, 2015 22:51
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Someone in this thread had vertical wall-mounted nail polish racks for paint. Can that person tell me where to get them? I'm trying to find either pegboard-compatible or wall mountable storage solutions for like ~200 paints and paint accessories. Right now I have a mishmash of rotating lazy Susan things and spice rack stadium-step style things and it's kind of a mess.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:29
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JoshTheStampede posted:Someone in this thread had vertical wall-mounted nail polish racks for paint. Can that person tell me where to get them? I'm trying to find either pegboard-compatible or wall mountable storage solutions for like ~200 paints and paint accessories. Right now I have a mishmash of rotating lazy Susan things and spice rack stadium-step style things and it's kind of a mess. Amazon and ebay have tons, just measure the bottles you want to store in the racks to make sure what you have will fit.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:37
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thoughts on using this as a cheap wipe clean mat for D&D? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vinyl-PVC...=item2a22ef6575 (Gingham Check Beige pattern) thoughts?
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Apr 7, 2015 00:25
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Cross-posting some hand to hand combat. I don't really like figures as much as I like tanks, but the action pose plus the departure from boring gray and green made this quite a fun thing to paint. There are three more figures in the box, but I think I'll tackle them one or two at a time. 
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Apr 7, 2015 00:39
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Moola posted:thoughts on using this as a cheap wipe clean mat for D&D? Chessex mats are 20 pounds and will last you the rest of you natural life.
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Apr 7, 2015 01:03
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maybe after the first game Ill buy a proper mat
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Apr 7, 2015 01:05
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Arcturas posted:What do you guys use to prep terrain? I finished a formation of epic space marines (6 bases, so 30 marines) this weekend, and painted a dreadnaught and a pair of vindicators, but now I need terrain for them to fight on. (Pictures eventually - I tried to take some this weekend but my light was wonky or I'm bad at cameras and everything came out dark and red. Maybe I need to use a tripod or something.) When using something like chalk, (plaster of paris?) you'll want to put several thick coats of spraypaint on it so that it doesn't immediately chip/scrape to bits. When using foam, you need to get a spraypaint that won't melt the foam. It's been so long since I've painted foam I honestly don't remember, Rustoleum usually melts my foam. Enamel: hell no, acrylic yes? If you're very, very patient, hand-brushing acrylic paint is always a safe bet.
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Apr 7, 2015 01:48
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All spraypaint that uses accelerants will melt foam. You need to brush the foam down with PVA/wood glue before you paint or prime it to seal it and stop it from melting (also will stop the foam from degrading over time).
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Apr 7, 2015 02:40
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I've had good luck with testors sprays on foam.
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Apr 7, 2015 02:57
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Bad Munki posted:I've had good luck with testors sprays on foam. You can use Liquitex Water based out of the bottle too, but all that poo poo is way more expensive than Krylon, and you need to wash down everything with PVA anyway to make it tough. Or you can use latex house paint which will cover without primer and also form a protective shell around things.
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Apr 7, 2015 03:13
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Post 9-11 User posted:When using something like chalk, (plaster of paris?) you'll want to put several thick coats of spraypaint on it so that it doesn't immediately chip/scrape to bits. Caulk isn't a chalk, it's the goopy stuff that people use to seal windows, the edges of doors, along baseboards, etc. But it dries pretty well and can be painted. Thanks for the info on foam, though! Foamcore is two pieces of stiff paper with a foam inner lining (commonly used as posterboard), so if I'm cutting it into shape I'm sure I'll end up with exposed foam that would melt. I'll paint it with a light coat of watered-down elmers before I prime it, then.
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Apr 7, 2015 03:22
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Arcturas posted:Caulk isn't a chalk, it's the goopy stuff that people use to seal windows, the edges of doors, along baseboards, etc. But it dries pretty well and can be painted. Be careful with foamcore, it warps super easy. I'd recommend backing it with MDF or something similar.
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Apr 7, 2015 04:17
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Be careful with foamcore, it warps super easy. I'd recommend backing it with MDF or something similar. Hmm. Good to know. I haven't done any scratch building terrain before, so I have been winging it so far.
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Apr 7, 2015 06:37
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Arcturas posted:What do you guys use to prep terrain? I finished a formation of epic space marines (6 bases, so 30 marines) this weekend, and painted a dreadnaught and a pair of vindicators, but now I need terrain for them to fight on. (Pictures eventually - I tried to take some this weekend but my light was wonky or I'm bad at cameras and everything came out dark and red. Maybe I need to use a tripod or something.) I often use black Gesso for the first layer on terrain, including 6mm terrain. You can spray paint it instead, but some materials don't like the propellant in spray paints (for example the foam in foamcore), so I find it better to just brush on Gesso. Also seconding not using foamcore alone as hills, as they'll easily warp or get damaged. XPS style of styrofoam ("pink" or "blue" styrofoam used for insulation of homes and similar) is the usual go-to material for hills, but you can probably do it with foamcore in 6mm if you put it on a piece of MDF for support to prevent it from warping. Personally I'd go to a DIY shop and buy a sheet of XPS in a suitable thickness for the hills. I haven't done the type of forests you describe, but I've seen it done many times and it looks great. There's a huge US terrain webshop called Scenic Express that can be a good source for foliage. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Apr 7, 2015 |
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Apr 7, 2015 08:23
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Foamcore has never been good to me. Some people have the patience to wrap the whole mess in masking tape or plaster, I sure as poo poo don't. It's really the worst when used as basing for a terrain piece, MDF is a far better foundation (not that I know where the hell to get it these days, it's gone out of style).El Estrago Bonito posted:All spraypaint that uses accelerants will melt foam. You need to brush the foam down with PVA/wood glue before you paint or prime it to seal it and stop it from melting (also will stop the foam from degrading over time). I've used Testors, too, and it hasn't melted foam. Arcturas posted:Caulk isn't a chalk, it's the goopy stuff that people use to seal windows, the edges of doors, along baseboards, etc. But it dries pretty well and can be painted. Oh, caulk, I misread that completely. I've never heard of using caulk for terrain, it should tough, tough as ... Liquid Nails. 
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Apr 7, 2015 10:53
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Post 9-11 User posted:Foamcore has never been good to me. Some people have the patience to wrap the whole mess in masking tape or plaster, I sure as poo poo don't. It's really the worst when used as basing for a terrain piece, MDF is a far better foundation (not that I know where the hell to get it these days, it's gone out of style). I use foamcore a lot for walls, either for structure (followed by balsa wood, spackle or similar) or for texture (stones or bricks). But yeah, I'd never use it for bases, where MDF is far superior, or for hills, where XPS is cheaper and sturdier. MDF is still available at the DIY shops around here. My supply problem is that it's impossible to find XPS sheets that are thinner than 4 inches where I live.
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Apr 7, 2015 12:04
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