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El Estrago Bonito posted:P3 is Coat d'Arms, so yeah, it thins well. I'm pretty sure that I-Kore paints are the same as Foundry's, which are still available (in Triads, even).
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Apr 14, 2015 18:11
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signalnoise posted:OK so what are the preferred best use paints? Maybe some paint picking suggestions could go in the OP by purpose? If you have over 200 paints already I'd say recommendations for more is the last thing you need. This is a hobby that quite often encourages more spending to improve where its really not needed. Practice more instead of spending more  Post 9-11 User posted:I don't work in a lab, though. I sometimes needed to use the back end of a paint brush handle to stir a paint pot and that was only if the paint was very old. I've been sitting at a painting table for a few hours and paint that was completely mixed became unusable again since earlier in the session. He means a little jobby you stick in the pot to help it mix. A lump of something that wont react with the paint. I use small lumps of resin left over from models personally, others use BB pellets, some use beads. As long as its not going to rust or whatever, just stick something small and lumpy in there
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Apr 14, 2015 18:18
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Skarsnik posted:If you have over 200 paints already I'd say recommendations for more is the last thing you need. This is a hobby that quite often encourages more spending to improve where its really not needed. Practice more instead of spending more That's fair, I'm just growing more and more irritated with Minitaire which is the bulk of my collection. Some of it's great, and some are absolutely godawful.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:24
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I am pretty much a hack painter and I don't post here much because of that, but just to share a little - I started with Vallejo Model Colour because they were available at a hobby store that was close to my house. I love the range of colours (they have, like, a zillion greys) but they are really fragile. If you're not careful you will rub the paint you just put on off doing another part of the model. Sometimes I have to do a coat of varnish partway through to mitigate this. That said, they really do have lovely colours. Started recently trying out some Reaper and P3, which are definitely more robust. I think I complained in here before about how much I hate how the Reaper bottles foul. The triad system is really cool for people like me who need some help figuring out how to shade and highlight. I haven't done a lot of P3 yet but they do seem really easy to get a nice smooth, thinned coat with.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:24
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signalnoise posted:It's an ever-expanding collection where I use whatever is newest. I don't like this. Do you guys have just massive paint collections or do you have a set you can stick with? Paints multiply just like unpainted minis. It's a fact of life.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:41
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Awesome. Was worried I'd have to choose between shiny dirt or matte trim.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:47
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Is there a difference between acrylic medium and flow improver? The acrylic medium I have is white-ish, is this pigment that will lighten the color I mix it with? Mixing 1 to 1 I haven't noticed it significantly changing the color.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:57
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Companies are bad about terminology so what it says on the bottle may or may not be what it is, but here's what the words actually mean. Acrylic medium is colorless paint. That is, it is everything paint is without the pigment. So adding it to your paint will make it less pigmented and thus more transparent, without majorly changing the consistency. Flow improver is an additive that breaks the surface tension and prevents liquids from beading up, making things flow more freely. People have been using liquid soap and Future as this forever, in addition to purpose made artists flow improvers. Medium being whitish isn't pigment, it's just the color of the goop, and it should dry clear and not shift the paint color.
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Apr 14, 2015 19:49
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Crossposting from the 40k thread since it's getting embroiled in Eldar chat. Making some progress with my Scions at last by just following GW's video painting guide even. Although I'm not sure if I wanna go into the highlighting stage or not once I've finished the base colours because I kinda like the muted colours that I've got with them right now.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:47
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signalnoise posted:OK so what are the preferred best use paints? Maybe some paint picking suggestions could go in the OP by purpose? I'm no expert but I see people praising P3 and Reaper in general, Vallejo Air or Vallejo Liquid Gold for metallics, and Citadel for shades/washes. I started using Vallejo Game Color because 1) they are a better value than Citadel, 2) they come in dropper bottles, and 3) it is easy to find matches for the majority of Citadel paints. The second one is important to me because I have literally knocked over every bottle of paint that I own. The third one is important to me because I am bad at art and I like to use other people's stuff as a guide, and tutorials on the internet tend to speak in terms of Citadel paints. I have some P3 for skin tones and it seems like good stuff until I knock over the jar. VGC skin tones are too yellow or orange for me. I was also disappointed in the Vallejo line of washes, some dried cloudy and some were not strong enough.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:50
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Cooked Auto posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread since it's getting embroiled in Eldar chat. So highlight them with muted colors. Also did you prime with gloss?
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Apr 14, 2015 20:52
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I've been using more GW lately after focusing on P3 for non-Technical, non-metallic for a couple of years. I use VGA and sometimes VMA in my airbrush but I am a paint eater so I prefer GW/P3 on a brush. Between those two, it really varies color by color for me. My blacks are P3, flesh is increasingly GW, whites are P3, saturated purples and blues are GW, etc.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:01
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SRM posted:So highlight them with muted colors. Also did you prime with gloss? Yeah that sounds like a plan, and no that's just the LED lights I've got at my painting workshop that does that to the basecoat for some reason.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:07
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VMC does have one huge advantage which is that English Uniform is a VMC color and it's awesome.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:25
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signalnoise posted:OK so what are the preferred best use paints? Maybe some paint picking suggestions could go in the OP by purpose? Its really all down to personal preference. You must have some colours that you absolutely loathe in the range you have, which is when you try and find one you like. I for example love the VMA blues, but hate their reds so use p3 for that. But I found this out after using them and realising I just didn't get on with that paint and replacing them as needed.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:31
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El Estrago Bonito posted:VMC does have one huge advantage which is that English Uniform is a VMC color and it's awesome. *Everything* is a VMC Colour!
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Apr 14, 2015 21:34
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Medium Style posted:I'm no expert but I see people praising P3 and Reaper in general, Vallejo Air or Vallejo Liquid Gold for metallics, and Citadel for shades/washes. Paint off of a palette so you dont have to worry knocking over your paints, you can use a wet palette if you are worried about wastage. Also I kinda hate dropper bottles because they are always getting clogged so my collection tends to lean to Coat D Arms, P3 and Citadel.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:37
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Big Willy Style posted:Paint off of a palette so you dont have to worry knocking over your paints, you can use a wet palette if you are worried about wastage. Also I kinda hate dropper bottles because they are always getting clogged so my collection tends to lean to Coat D Arms, P3 and Citadel. I do paint from a palette. I started using a homemade wet palette just recently, which has been great. Still, if the jar is open and exists somewhere in the known universe, I will knock it over. If it is closed, then I have already knocked it over while closing it.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:40
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Big Willy Style posted:Paint off of a palette so you dont have to worry knocking over your paints, you can use a wet palette if you are worried about wastage. Also I kinda hate dropper bottles because they are always getting clogged so my collection tends to lean to Coat D Arms, P3 and Citadel. Maybe it's because I've been doing epic minis and don't put much paint on the pallette, but I find that all the paint on my pallette is all dried out by the time I'm done with one or two things, and then I have to open the pot, grab more, basecoat one or two minis, open the pot, slather more paint out, etc etc. That's feasible for most paints, but for my washes it seems easier to leave them open. That's why my nuln oil and drakenhof nightshade are half empty. Each has spilled once when I've been trying to dip, wipe, paint, dip, wipe, paint.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:41
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Arcturas posted:Maybe it's because I've been doing epic minis and don't put much paint on the pallette, but I find that all the paint on my pallette is all dried out by the time I'm done with one or two things, and then I have to open the pot, grab more, basecoat one or two minis, open the pot, slather more paint out, etc etc. That's feasible for most paints, but for my washes it seems easier to leave them open. That's why my nuln oil and drakenhof nightshade are half empty. Each has spilled once when I've been trying to dip, wipe, paint, dip, wipe, paint. You need to do a Web search for 'wet palette' - it will change your life.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:49
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A wet palette will keep paints from drying out. Like I said, I just started using one and it's a huge difference. I made it with less than $5 worth of stuff and it took two minutes to create. I can do an entire miniature with literally one or two drops of paint and still have wet paint left over to do touch ups at the end. It does cause problems with the consistency for me. It waters down the paint slightly on its own and I'm not used to judging consistency on a wet piece of parchment paper. I need more experience with it. Thanks, miniatures painting thread! Medium Style fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 21:50
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Goddamn, that looks genius! EDIT: Some internet articles claim that you shouldn't use metallics on a wet pallette? Arcturas fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 22:00
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What is the best colour match for Old School 'Bolter shell' pot Chaos Black? My whole Trollbloods army has the base rims painted in it, and adding new models years later my Vallejo 72051 Black is a bit too glossy and different.
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Apr 14, 2015 23:00
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Harkano posted:What is the best colour match for Old School 'Bolter shell' pot Chaos Black? Vallejo game color black comes out quite matte for me
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Apr 14, 2015 23:47
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I use Reaper by default, except for silver metallics which are VMA and washes which are Army Painter inks where possible. I've got a number of other Vallejo and a couple of P3 that I also break out when they have a color that looks closer than Reaper for what I want.
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Apr 15, 2015 00:00
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enri posted:Vallejo game color black comes out quite matte for me Hahaha no, that thing is glossy as gently caress. Good if you want the look of fresh asphalt or something, otherwise you'll have to break it with some matte medium.
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Apr 15, 2015 00:17
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Arcturas posted:Goddamn, that looks genius! They can separate easier than regular paints.
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Apr 15, 2015 00:49
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Harkano posted:What is the best colour match for Old School 'Bolter shell' pot Chaos Black? P3 Thamar Black is what I'm using. Coat D'Arms paints are also the same ones GW rebranded back in the day, so their black would probably do ya just fine.
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Apr 15, 2015 01:06
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 Time for hazard stripes? I haven't gotten a lick of advice about what to do next. You'd probably die if you saw the rancid, hosed up brushes I use for painting. Lots of blank space on the back of this model, I don't know what to do with it. Same with the cables, I don't want to do more lame metallics and washes.
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Apr 15, 2015 06:40
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While I was airbrushing Fire Warriors this weekend I decided to try using a thinned tamiya clear red as a candy over a metallic basecoat. I really like the way this came out , kinda has a dried blood look too it and it will be perfect for the Word Bearer force I'm building slowly. Ill probably do more shading on the metallic undercoat in later iterations but this came out great and was just what I wanted. I had so much fun with the base-coat that I decided to keep painting the model. One more things I tried to do was to paint his tabbard like it was skinned flesh (not sure about it). Comments and criticisms welcome. 
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Apr 15, 2015 06:49
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Just to chime in on the paint question: though I am building up a collection of Vallejo paints, I still have a bunch of craft paints I acquired last year, and I've been finding that in my current project (painting up a bunch of Russians for Bolt Action), there are some close enough color matches that I am using them instead of the (far more pricey) VMC colors. My goal is to speed-paint as many as I can, which is mainly involving drybrushing highlights and using washes for shades. So, after putting down a basecoat of whatever VMC color I want to use for a particular Soviet's uniform (mainly Tan Yellow, as per the Plastic Soldier Company painting guide), I drybrush a couple of highlights with craft paints and then hit it with a wash (been experimenting with both Vallejo Game Ink washes and the Army Painter ones to see which I like better). I also use the craft paints to do the bases too, painting dirt and rocks with various browns and grays. I reserve the VMC colors for the smaller parts of the figures like flesh, packs, guns, etc. So even if you don't intend to use them for fine detail work, craft paints can still come in handy in terms of saving both money and paint when you have to do a lot of drybrushing on your big ol' army for whatever game. 
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Apr 15, 2015 07:23
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The red: sick nasty. The bone: dope as gently caress. It looks great. There's nothing for me to nitpick, just don't do something idiotic with the basing. gently caress me, do the Dark Vengeance models look good. Even that crazy, demon-like model doesn't have, "LOL SPIKES!!!" on the weapon.
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Apr 15, 2015 14:34
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Post 9-11 User posted:
Hazard stripes are always the answer. Hell, put hazard stripes on the gun barrel. The carapace on top is very...bland. It's just black, and it needs to be broken up by something. Whether it's more hazard stripes (  ), weathering/chipping, decals, or freehand, there's gotta be something up there. Even just a two-tone color scheme, like a white stripe down the middle, would go a long way. Cables you can easily just use primary colors like red and yellow and blue.The Sisko posted:While I was airbrushing Fire Warriors this weekend I decided to try using a thinned tamiya clear red as a candy over a metallic basecoat. I really like the way this came out , kinda has a dried blood look too it and it will be perfect for the Word Bearer force I'm building slowly. Ill probably do more shading on the metallic undercoat in later iterations but this came out great and was just what I wanted. I had so much fun with the base-coat that I decided to keep painting the model. One more things I tried to do was to paint his tabbard like it was skinned flesh (not sure about it). Comments and criticisms welcome. That's basically how FW does their Alpha Legion and Iron Hands: black, then using metallics over it (they use rub & buff pewter), then going over it with tamiya colors. I'd definitely do some pre-shading with metallic colors first before trying again but as it is? 
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Apr 15, 2015 14:58
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Post 9-11 User posted:
Just for the sake of making my knight look less bland I switched the panels around the vents and the pilot door to a different color.  As for the cables, I'm a big fan of bright, contrasting colors. Yellow is my go-to, and I mix it up a bit with green and blue to keep it interesting when there are a lot of tiny cables, and I like to keep the ribbed radiator hose looking cable housing black, but you get the idea. I did still end up with more metallic + wash than I'd have liked on the majority of the knight, like around the "core" or whatever on his back, and the backs of the legs, but I find that the more brightly painted copper and red on the panels stand out so much more that putting more time in past this:  Would be a waste. The eagle heads could probably have been painted a different metallic color, but meh.
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Apr 15, 2015 15:00
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The Sisko posted:While I was airbrushing Fire Warriors this weekend I decided to try using a thinned tamiya clear red as a candy over a metallic basecoat. I really like the way this came out , kinda has a dried blood look too it and it will be perfect for the Word Bearer force I'm building slowly. Ill probably do more shading on the metallic undercoat in later iterations but this came out great and was just what I wanted. I had so much fun with the base-coat that I decided to keep painting the model. One more things I tried to do was to paint his tabbard like it was skinned flesh (not sure about it). Comments and criticisms welcome. I really like how the metallic red turned out!
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Apr 15, 2015 16:34
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Reynold posted:Just for the sake of making my knight look less bland I switched the panels around the vents and the pilot door to a different color. Hell yeah, that's the ticket. Brass accents on the back are what I needed, the blade is already brass so it won't look odd. I can pick out some stuff on the front of the model in brass to fill it out, too. I was also wondering what the heck to do with the main gun, I like yours looks. Thanks to Slimnoid, too!  Also yes on meh. This big dumb robot is going to take too long to paint as is.
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Apr 16, 2015 00:10
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Who makes the best yellow that doesn't suck? Not like an ochre but a true primary yellow. My old Sunburst has given up the ghost and my old Golden Yellow is almost gone.
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Apr 16, 2015 00:36
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Anyone know if Green stuff can be safely baked? The labels say it can be bake continuously at 250. however it doesn't say how long 'continuously' happens to be. I am aware kneadatite doesn't need baking however I've been using it for details on sculpts that I can't manage with super sculpey.
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Apr 16, 2015 01:26
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JoshTheStampede posted:Who makes the best yellow that doesn't suck? Not like an ochre but a true primary yellow. My old Sunburst has given up the ghost and my old Golden Yellow is almost gone. I'd say avoid the VMC Golden Yellow, I've had two bottles and they were very thin.
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Apr 16, 2015 01:51
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If you're looking for a yellow I'm partial to Tamiya's yellow shades, very very primary in colour. Although to me they are a little dark.
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Apr 16, 2015 04:10
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