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Apr 16, 2015 18:05
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Z3n posted:I use the etymotic kids because they're smaller. I have hilariously small ear canals and was going to try a pair of etymotic kids at $59. Until I realized that shipping to Toronto is adds $43.47 to that. My right index finger has trouble physically clicking the Proceed To Checkout button when the shipping costs almost three quarters what the product costs.
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Apr 16, 2015 19:12
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I've been using Maximo earbuds. Mostly because they're a Washington state operation, but also they're pretty good. They come with a bunch of different sized fittings, I run the smallest in my helmet. Without music, they're effective ear plugs. With music, I can even hear some bass over a Jardine trash can, but it's wasted on the endless looping Corb Lund I put through it.
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Apr 16, 2015 19:16
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epalm posted:I have hilariously small ear canals and was going to try a pair of etymotic kids at $59. Until I realized that shipping to Toronto is adds $43.47 to that. My right index finger has trouble physically clicking the Proceed To Checkout button when the shipping costs almost three quarters what the product costs. Check a site like Amazon then and see if you don't have better luck there. The shipping in the US was also more than I would like to pay. They probably overcharge on their site. edit VVV drat, hadn't thought of that. Good on you for offering, man. Chichevache fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 19:22
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epalm posted:I have hilariously small ear canals and was going to try a pair of etymotic kids at $59. Until I realized that shipping to Toronto is adds $43.47 to that. My right index finger has trouble physically clicking the Proceed To Checkout button when the shipping costs almost three quarters what the product costs. I'm happy to reship - I can Amazon prime a set to my door for 39 bucks, so total cost to reship would probably come in at like 50 bucks.
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Apr 16, 2015 20:02
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alnilam posted:
My anecdote concludes that it takes A Short Time for a surface problem to become a real problem. I removed my exhaust, sanded it down, painted it rattle can style and put it back on. Before I knew it, I was standing in a Belgian parking lot with KARMA!, trying to shovel filler putty in a massive chasm of a rust hole. The open exhaust killed 50, maybe 60 French people on the Autoroute from sound shock alone, perhaps 8 species of songbird are now extinct, pilot whales are no longer seen in the Bay of Biscay and the leaner mixture burned my exhaust valve to a cinder. *empties whiskey glass* Is your system a 2-2? The less pieces it has, the slower it rusts, but it does rust through eventually, particularly if the bike is in conditions which caused the rust in the first place. Galvanic corrosion can be a problem too, if you have swapped some bits of your bike for stainless ones for instance. Browse eBay for replacements or start reading up on exhaust paints. Before...before it's too late. Another one, barkeep.
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Apr 16, 2015 20:37
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Z3n posted:I'm happy to reship - I can Amazon prime a set to my door for 39 bucks, so total cost to reship would probably come in at like 50 bucks. Yeh, thanks for the offer! 30 minutes ago I located them on Amazon.ca and placed the order. It was around 70 CAD for next-day shipping, so they should arrive tomorrow afternoon.
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Apr 16, 2015 21:23
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I need to get my front and rear wheel up off the ground for a first service; chain tension, wheel alignment, steering head bearing, and wheel bearing check. Can someone school me on proper and safe usage of bike stands? I'm planning on getting the HF rear stand and using 10mm bolts instead of spools to lift the rear, but I'm not sure what to do with the front end and just generally how to keep the bike safe while doing it.
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Apr 18, 2015 02:12
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Money well spent for quality stands... Pitbull, PSR, etc
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Apr 18, 2015 03:35
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My Street Triple is under 2k miles but has started squealing loudly from the front brake. Checked it today and I have plenty of pad life left and no corrosion or substantial grit in the rotor. Any ideas?
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Apr 18, 2015 16:52
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Squeak happens. My rear brake does it from time to time. Does it get worse the harder you pull down on the brake or does it only happen when you lightly apply? My rear will squeal a bit if I'm just pressing lightly on it but when I bite down to actually stop it goes away instantly. If it gets worse the more pressure you apply that's prolly not so good.
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Apr 18, 2015 18:07
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It's the opposite, light pressure nothing, hard braking squeal. That's why I wanted to check it out, but nothing seems obviously out of place.
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Apr 18, 2015 18:14
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Check to make sure you don't have some small gravel or something stuck near the pads?
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Apr 18, 2015 18:18
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Try rebedding the pads.
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Apr 18, 2015 20:38
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I think you could also try to spray wd40 on the brakedisk.
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Apr 18, 2015 23:13
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That would certainly fix the squeak.
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Apr 18, 2015 23:15
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KARMA! posted:I think you could also try to spray wd40 on the brakedisk. 
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Apr 19, 2015 01:16
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I'm thinking of getting my motorcycle license this summer, after I get my car license done. I've been looking at this forum occasionally this winter and looking online what kind of motorcycle I'd like and came to the conclusion that I would like something akin to the klr650 jack of all trades, master of none. Those don't really seem to be around much here online in holland even second hand due to emission restrictions. I found a forum post saying that we don't have them here because we have bunch of other models available. But what would the euro alternative be? hard to see the forester the trees. Specifically: -Cheap (second hand). -Highway capable. -Unpaved roads (fire roads? Not sure of the terminology) capable -Uncomplicated -Beginner friendly For reference I'm 27 years old, 186cm (6'1) and 77kg (170 pounds) and want to learn to do as much of my own maintenance as possible, in which I have no experience. Edit: highway speed limit here is 130kph (80mph) AlexanderCA fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Apr 19, 2015 |
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Apr 19, 2015 07:24
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Any dualsport that's street legal by default will do you fine, most likely. Not sure what models you get but look for any air cooled 650 for simplicity and a water cooled 400/650 for something that's a bit more powerful. Avoid 250 and 450 MX or offroad only bikes, as they'll be excessively maintenance intensive. If you post up some of the dual sport options in your area, we can help guide your search, as what bikes are available in your area isn't likely to be consistent with other areas.
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Apr 19, 2015 07:26
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AlexanderCA posted:I'm thinking of getting my motorcycle license this summer, after I get my car license done. Get a transalp 600, they are very good mixed gravel and highway bike. Uncomplicated v-twin with good low rpm grunt and a low first gear so windy low speed gravel roads is no issue. It's only 48 lazy horses so it can't surprise you that much. There is really no mechanical things you have to replace or it dies stuff. Oil and valves are a 12k km maintenance interval. I got mine as my first bike at 80k km on the clock and other than the stator and regulator dieing at 97k(200 euro in parts) it's been pretty troublefree at 102k km. Get a cared for one with ok milage and known service history to save you some hassle from doing all the scheduled maintenance at once. Choose tires that are knobbier/ more road oriented after what you want to focus on. Even with road tires gravel is easy because of the long suspension and front rake. Mind you, it's 200kg wet so it is not the lightest bike to toss around, but it has good fairings for highway riding. They are available in various fabulous 90s colours 
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Apr 19, 2015 08:47
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Supradog posted:Get a transalp 600, they are very good mixed gravel and highway bike. Uncomplicated v-twin with good low rpm grunt and a low first gear so windy low speed gravel roads is no issue. It's only 48 lazy horses so it can't surprise you that much. There is really no mechanical things you have to replace or it dies stuff. Oil and valves are a 12k km maintenance interval. I got mine as my first bike at 80k km on the clock and other than the stator and regulator dieing at 97k(200 euro in parts) it's been pretty troublefree at 102k km. I wanted to type up a whole thing but this is better. Listen to this guy.
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Apr 19, 2015 09:45
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Supradog posted:Get a transalp 600, they are very good mixed gravel and highway bike. Uncomplicated v-twin with good low rpm grunt and a low first gear so windy low speed gravel roads is no issue. It's only 48 lazy horses so it can't surprise you that much. There is really no mechanical things you have to replace or it dies stuff. Oil and valves are a 12k km maintenance interval. I got mine as my first bike at 80k km on the clock and other than the stator and regulator dieing at 97k(200 euro in parts) it's been pretty troublefree at 102k km. Having never had an ADV bike I'm 99% certain I'd get a transalp if I wanted one. They seem like everything you need and nothing you don't, totally dependable toyota-like engine with no vices and relaxed performance, simple rugged comfortable bike. People who buy ADV bikes all seem to want a two wheeled x5 or range rover when in reality you'd be better off with the bike version of a hilux or something.
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Apr 19, 2015 10:10
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Having ridden a Transalp just once, I loved it. It's what the KLR should have been.
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Apr 19, 2015 13:46
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They're pretty tough to find in some areas, though. Don't think I've ever seen one for sale on CL in Denver.
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Apr 19, 2015 14:44
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So my dad and I are trailering our bikes to Yellowstone in a few weeks to camp and ride around. It looks like highs might be in the mid 40s there. We are wussy Southern California riders, will we be ok with some basic cold weather gear? Balaclava, winter gloves, thermals? I have a full fairing and heated seat / grips, but my dad just has a windscreen.
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Apr 19, 2015 15:02
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marshmonkey posted:So my dad and I are trailering our bikes to Yellowstone in a few weeks to camp and ride around. It looks like highs might be in the mid 40s there. We are wussy Southern California riders, will we be ok with some basic cold weather gear? Balaclava, winter gloves, thermals? as with anything in the cold, layers are your friend. When I ride in the cold I have a base layer of under armor sweat wicking stuff, then thermals. If it's drat cold out I'll add a set of sweats under my riding gear. Your hands are small and out in the wind. Heated grips are best with comfy thermal gloves. I have a set of glove liners and then a set of winter riding gloves. A set of bark busters work also to keep the wind off your hands. I go with smart wool socks on my feet.
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Apr 19, 2015 15:27
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If you're not sold on transalps yet, go read this: http://www.tokyotolondon.com/
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Apr 19, 2015 16:54
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Seconding smart wool, that stuff is the bee's knees. I started riding in Socal and moved back to Houston a couple years ago and riding in 40F is doable with layers IMO. Gloves are probably the most important. I had some slightly too tight A* gloves that didn't really work below 45F. I've heard great things about those Rukka lobster claw gloves and plan to grab a pair before thenext cold season.
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Apr 20, 2015 03:26
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So after giving my bike a good wash today I noticed that the motor mount at the front of the engine looks like it is supposed to have 4 bolts securing it to the front of the frame. It only had one. I tightened that one down and went to pick up some bolts. While riding with the one tightened I noticed that if it gets above maybe 4.5k or so it gets really loud and vibrations run through the whole bike like something is off balance. This didn't happen until after I had tightened down the one. There doesn't seem to have been any sort of dampening between the motor mount and the frame at any point.  Is this just because I tightened down a loose fitting or could it be something more? Bike runs fine in the lower rev ranges and doesn't misfire or anything, the vibration is consistent through all 5 gears and neutral and only gets more intense as RPMs go up, but doesn't seem to be tied to them as far as 'frequency' would go. I'll grab a video tomorrow when it stops raining...but any ideas? Also doing an oil change tomorrow. I've got what I think is a slight lifter knock that comes and goes. Any suggestions on 10W30 that might alleviate this in a 30 year old bike with 12k miles? (That will be in the video too most likely.) Happens mostly between cold and operating temp but If I'm sitting at a light having been on the freeway for a bit it starts up again. Either way, oil suggestions for higher mileage older bikes are appreciated as well. SkaAndScreenplays fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 04:40
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Thanks guys, now I've been looking at transalp online all day yesterday and am seriously considering ditching getting the car license first (because it's expensive as poo poo) and go straight for the motorcycle. 
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Apr 20, 2015 07:00
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If you haven't found them already there are some good resources on the web about them: http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/transalp/ http://transalp.org/ and http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/index.html between those and the Haynes manual plus user manual(both are avaliable online if you look) you should find what info you need. Advrider got some threads too ofc.
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Apr 20, 2015 08:04
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:So after giving my bike a good wash today I noticed that the motor mount at the front of the engine looks like it is supposed to have 4 bolts securing it to the front of the frame. Firstly, questions are much more likely to get answered if you say what kind of bike you have - it's difficult to keep up with the two-wheeled soap opera that is this forum so you can't just assume people know what you have unless you're really infamous (clutchpuck). 1. Put all the bolts in and tighten them. There isn't any dampening between the motor and frame on 99% of bikes which is totally normal. Try putting all four bolts in, then loosening all the other engine mounting bolts and then tightening everything evenly; it could be that spending so long with the front of the motor not secured has slightly tweaked everything else, putting the frame under more tension than normal and making the vibration seem terrible. 2. 10w30 will just piss past your rings like it ain't no thing. Do you have hydraulic or solid tappets? If they're hydraulic you might well just have a dud lifter that no longer seals like it's supposed to. I've had some luck using engine flush or just plain kerosene poured into the crank-case before changing the oil, running the engine for a few minutes (do not ride in this condition) then drain it with the oil boiling hot. 3. Use the oil recommended for your bike. If you have oil consumption issues (not saying you do) you might be running too rich or have bad valve stem seals.
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Apr 20, 2015 08:19
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Slavvy posted:Firstly, questions are much more likely to get answered if you say what kind of bike you have - it's difficult to keep up with the two-wheeled soap opera that is this forum so you can't just assume people know what you have unless you're really infamous (clutchpuck). 83GR650 Tempter. Sorry, Thought I had mentioned it. I'd venture a guess that they're solid due to the age of the bike. I'm not sure if it's possible to tell by appearance but here's a pick of them outside the head.  I'll definitely give it a shot with getting everything even. And it's a 32 year old bike so any of those could be the case. No oil consumption issues as far as I've been able to tell over the past year or so. And apparently I hit a 3 instead of a 4 on the oil weight. On the brightside found a dealer service manual. http://www.radiorecordhop.com/transfer/GR_650_tempter_Service_manual_%28eng%29_1983-1984.pdf
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Apr 20, 2015 09:31
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They're solid lifters so just clean them up and check your clearances. The shims only come in a few different diameters so it won't be hard to get new ones if some of the clearances are bad.
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Apr 20, 2015 10:12
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Slavvy posted:They're solid lifters so just clean them up and check your clearances. The shims only come in a few different diameters so it won't be hard to get new ones if some of the clearances are bad. Awesome thank you sir... I'll check it out when I'm working on it tomorrow. Still need to figure out where to move the rear turn signals. Being it's my only vehicle I want to be able to fab up some sort of storage and I have some ideas just need to make some space ahead of the blinkers. Is there anything terrifying about pulling a valve cover off a parallel twin? I'm mainly worried about loving up the gasket because that is the one thing they don't make for the bike anymore. SkaAndScreenplays fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 10:29
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Disclaimer: This is maybe a little Eurocentric, as it seems tire models don't cross the Atlantic that well. The KTM SD 1290 comes from the factory with Dunlop SportSmart2 tires. I've found them good for both street/road and the occasional trackday (intermediate group; around here that means if the really fast guys get 1:30 on a given course, I should usually manage around 1:45). I used to run SportSmart v1 tires on my previous bike and liked them better than Metzeler M5 Interacts. Now, is the Dunlop SS2 still the go-to tire for that sort of mixed use, or should I look at alternatives? Given that the SS2 is a new model and has been available only for a year I get that experience may be limited. I'd like a tire that is surefooted when cold and wet without being the weakest link on a trackday. Endurance is a plus but not a requirement.
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Apr 20, 2015 16:28
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KTM had a custom tire made for the SD1290 - if you look at the sidewall of your front, you'll notice that there really is no delineation between sidewall and contact patch. I was pretty thrilled with them for all around use but getting the official KTM tires is really expensive ( there's an official KTM part number for the front and rear). I'd probably lean towards any street/track crossover tire for your use - most of them perform pretty well in the wet these days. I like Pirelli performance tires, Michelin street tires, so I always lean towards recommending those. http://motorcycle.michelinman.com/tires/michelin-power-supersport-evo http://www.pirelli.com/tire/us/en/motorcycle/sheet/diablo_rosso_corsa.html?url=%3Fsubtype%3Droad If you preferred the Dunlops to the Metzlers, I'd go with Michelin, as the stiffer construction and sidewall will provide feel more like the OEM tires.
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Apr 20, 2015 17:29
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I'm beginning to suspect you have a bot crawling this forum for Superduke mentions So that's why Dunlop didn't even officially admit to the existence of the SS2 until long after the 1290s were on the streets. Do you know if the sidewall/contact patch border (or lack thereof) is the only difference compared to the normal SS2? The non-KTM tires are pricewise about in line with other brands. It'd be kinda interesting to see if there's any practical difference to the KTM OE version since the SS2 seems to be generally well regarded. Thanks for the Michelin suggestion, seems pretty much what I've in mind. I'm probably going to try to get about 1000km more out of the current tires (about 9300km on them) and get new rubber before the first trackday. On the whole I tend to hate choosing a tire, since there's so little real - as opposed to marketing - info available and magazines/websites do real tire comparisons very rarely if ever. Probably because it'd be so expensive.
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Apr 20, 2015 18:19
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I can't seem to find a picture of the tire on google. I'm interested in seeing this.
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Apr 20, 2015 18:38
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This is the generic non-KTM version, I think: I can't find a good enough pic of the SD OE tires. But in the generic version the contact patch goes far over the side - I can't really think of any conditions where the sidewall border would become an issue. E: although the rims in the pic look suspiciously like Superduke wheels... so I dunno. rmdx fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 19:11
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