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Gibbo posted:A 10g is below adequate for even a single Figure Eight, plus he probably doesn't want to mess with brackish just to get rid of some snails. I didn't read 10 gallon. Brackish is totally worth it though.
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Apr 14, 2015 06:44
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Stoca Zola posted:Shrimp don't handle well ammonia, chlorine/chloramine, copper, fish medications, stress from being around fish with not enough hiding places, pH crashes, nitro spikes from over feeding or uncycled "new" tanks, too hot or too cold, new plants that have fertiliser or pesticide residue on them, being bitten but not killed by fishy tank mates, water chemistry that makes their shells too hard so that they can't moult, etc. If you have shrimp in with guppies, the guppies are fairly hardy and won't clue you in that something is going wrong with your water chemistry (and it is possible they are harassing your shrimp even if they aren't outright eating them). A guppy won't care if you put tap water and water conditioner directly in the tank during a water change but I don't think this would do your shrimp much good. However aside from all that not much is widely known about shrimp diseases. They can definitely get viral and bacterial infections which like fish, are made worse by poor water conditions or stress. They can carry a disease for a long time before dying and could have picked it up along the way before sale. A dead shrimp changes colour as its tissues break down much like when you cook a shrimp, but a sick shrimp can show discolouration too. That probably explains it. As for my water parameters I don't have the money for a better testing kit so I just have strips and it looks like the water is between 20 and 40 for Nitrate, 0 for Nitrite, between 75 and 150 hardness, between 40 and 80 alkalinity, and around 6.8 pH. Is that bad? The tank is around 75 degrees Len fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 11:31
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Len posted:That probably explains it. Nitrates seem a little high, but that's probably from all the guppies. On the other hand, though, I had ghost shrimp breed and survive in my absolutely disgusting 5.5 gallon way back when, so, you know. Ghost shrimp don't make a lick of sense. rockcity posted:It looks awesome. Here is a really good review of it. I'm actually looking for a new fixture for my 30 gallon, and I was curious about this. Do these LEDs really work for plants? I've seen and tested so many decently affordable ones that just ended up effectively strangling any plants trying to live under then that I'm wary of anything not fluorescent lighting.
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Apr 14, 2015 18:35
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SkaAndScreenplays posted:I didn't read 10 gallon. It is. F8s are awesome and I'm sad that I lost of one mine recently. So I've got a big solo motherfucker swimming around in a 30g. Might try a pair of Bumblebees to see if he murders them or not.
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Apr 14, 2015 19:51
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Are the liquid API gH tests reliable, or is there a more accurate way of testing for water hardness? I live in AZ, US. So hard water here is a massive problem, and I think the reason (outside of being feeders) my ghost shrimp are dying after surviving for about 2-4 weeks is because they can't molt.
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Apr 14, 2015 20:58
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Water hardness is caused by minerals in water, particularly bicarbonate. It may be worth checking KH to see if there is any calcium in there as well (my guess is that calcium is there,but it's worth checking out). Crustraceans need both calcium and trace amounts of iodine as a moulting aid. I use iodized table salt in the tanks for my inverts at the rate of 1 teaspoon per five gallons (note this is less than the standard suggested 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons for aquarium salt). Be mindful that iodized salt will often have anti-caking agents in it -- it's up to you to determine if you have specialized needs that would make this a problem (it isn't an issue for most hobbyists keeping community tanks). Speaking of, here's a pic of a self-cloning marbled crayfish with her current parthenogenic brood! 
Fusillade fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Apr 15, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 23:57
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Just found half a dozen bushy nose pleco fry chilling in the sump on my 55g. I had no idea at all the 2 plecos in that tank were breeding. I managed to pull them all out and get them into a spare tank, so will be fun to see them grow out.
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Apr 15, 2015 03:59
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aerialsilks posted:I'm actually looking for a new fixture for my 30 gallon, and I was curious about this. Do these LEDs really work for plants? I've seen and tested so many decently affordable ones that just ended up effectively strangling any plants trying to live under then that I'm wary of anything not fluorescent lighting. People seem to have a lot of luck with their Planted+ one including some people in this thread. I think I'm going to order one of these for my new 29 and supplement it with my current T5 that's on my 20 gallon.
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Apr 15, 2015 04:23
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Gibbo posted:It is. F8s are awesome and I'm sad that I lost of one mine recently. So I've got a big solo motherfucker swimming around in a 30g. I miss my silver scats. If I could have kept that tank lit/fertilized I would have let them eat all the plants they desired.
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Apr 15, 2015 05:21
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MrConfusedTurkey posted:Are the liquid API gH tests reliable, or is there a more accurate way of testing for water hardness? I live in AZ, US. So hard water here is a massive problem, and I think the reason (outside of being feeders) my ghost shrimp are dying after surviving for about 2-4 weeks is because they can't molt. Where in AZ are you, Turkey? I can meet up somewhere (am in Phoenix) and give you some brown cherries. IE the wild strain but they breed pretty well for me.
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Apr 15, 2015 09:28
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I re organized my tank a bit. I took ALL of the big rocks out and added a bunch of new vegation. My eels are now "forced" to be out constantly. They have hiding spots, but I can easily locate them with a little bit of looking. In other news, I had 5 beautiful rabbit snails in my tank that the aquarium store stated, 'Sorry, they never reproduce in your tank.' Oh. REALLY? I have them spawning from thin air then. I have 2-3 TINY baby rabbit snails moving around the tank. I love these things, bright yellow, orange and poop green snails running around! I just hope my bicolor snails start reproducing too! Our big green sunfish has become a little "too" aggressive He started killing my tadpoles and we had to move them into another tank. Wasn't too bad though, they finally started developing legs and are starting to become FROGS! A buddy of mine started a pond a couple of years ago and is releasing cichlids this year into the pond. I'll be releasing the big green sunfish and the rock bass since he won't get used to taking frozen krill. Once they have been released and the local waters start warming up, I'll be hunting down some of these beauties to put in our tank. Longear Sunfish:   I know where to find them, I just need to get into the right places when the young ones start to grow. I want to get 4-5 of them so they can school together in the tank! I absolutely love sunfish 
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Apr 15, 2015 17:42
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Been watching my angels for the past week, one female platinum and one male black paired off and have been spending their days patrolling and pecking some leaves. Got up this morn and surprised, 50-some eggs on a leaf and the female's still laying. Kinda shocked to see it as the platinums and blacks used to stay with their own kind. It was like a mini race war
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Apr 16, 2015 15:58
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Amazon sent the bottle of seachem flourish nitrogen I ordered. I opened it up and see a bunch of white stringy things floating with black specs. The seal was still on the top of the bottle when I opened it. I did some searching and this seems to have happened before, seachem reps asking for lot numbers and sending replacements. I didn't want to deal with that so I just got a replacement from amazon. Anyone else had this problem? This is for a 5g tank so don't tell me to buy a pound of dry ferts lol. The potassium and phosphorus liquids looked fine. Looking at the instructions for dosing nitrogen I'm confused about the formula. quote:To target a specific nitrogen increase, dose according to the following formula: 0.25vn=m, where v= volume of tank in gallons*, n=desired nitrogen increase (if using a “nitrate equivalent” value for “n” then use a factor of 0.05 instead of 0.25 in the formula) and m=volume of product to use in mL. For example to raise 20 gallons* by 0.20 mg/L nitrogen you would use: 0.25*20*0.20=1 mL. If I want my nitrate test to read 5mg/L how much flourish nitrogen would I dose in a 5g tank? Would I use the .05 factor for "N" in the formula? edit: yes, I would does 1.25ml for 5mg/L of nitrate in a 5g tank. r0ck0 fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Apr 16, 2015 |
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Apr 16, 2015 17:40
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r0ck0 posted:Get a chiller and a temp controller for your heater, program both to stay within 2°C of your target without overlapping. Or get a fan and and a two way temp controller, turn the fan on when its too hot and the heater on when its too cold. I don't have a heater (though if the tank's temperature is changing so much now then I evidently will need one come winter) and I am having real trouble finding coolers that aren't extremely expensive. What should I be looking for?
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Apr 17, 2015 12:38
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Bollock Monkey posted:I don't have a heater (though if the tank's temperature is changing so much now then I evidently will need one come winter) and I am having real trouble finding coolers that aren't extremely expensive. What should I be looking for? First off why do you need to maintain 64f or 18c? This is quite cold for a "tropical" freshwater aquarium. It is also much cooler than room temp, unless you live somewhere very drafty. Since its so much cooler than room temp you will need a chiller, depending on how sensitive the animals are you will want an expensive digital controlled chiller with optionally connected heater. The other option is to build a cooler/chiller, evaporative is the best cheap cooler but is a problem with water replacement and efficiency based on current humidity levels. The cheapest, easiest thing to do is heat water. Find the highest temp your animals will live at, hope if falls at room temp or above, and use a heater to maintain that temp. edit: Oh axolotl https://familab.org/2011/12/thermo-electric-axolotl-cooling/ http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm#heat r0ck0 fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 19:34
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This is for an axolotl right? Over summer my tanks were creeping towards 30C which was concerning since all my fish are sub-tropical, but chillers seem aimed at reefs and like you I saw they are super expensive. I found I could drop the temp a few degrees with fans and propping the lids ajar, but with cats in the house and jumpy fish I didn't want to have the lids completely off. I'm assuming axolotls aren't going to be leaping out of the tank like acrobats if you have the cover right off so you might be able to get better cooling than me, but I doubt you'd be able to hit 18C with fans and evaporation alone. Apparently some people stick a frozen bottle of water straight in their tanks to cool the water down but warn that this leads to temperature cycling which is a good way to quickly kill an axolotl. I think you could do it smarter than that. If it was me, I'd have a bucket or sump or some other secondary water storage to stick the frozen water bottles in, place it somewhere higher up so that it will overflow into your target tank eg via a hose or something, and stick a pump in your target tank to pipe warm water into the cooling vessel. Drive your pump using a temperature sensor/controller so that you're only getting a bit of cool water when its needed, not a whole bottle's worth of cooling at once. You'd still have to mess around with replacing the frozen bottles but any temperature changes should be smoothed out which would be safer. It might take a bit of tweaking to work out where best to place the sensor, how to position the cool water inlet so that it mixes and disperses nicely, how to avoid pump stop/starting when you're close to your target temperature (probably a temperature controller thing would have some settings for that) etc. The beauty of the frozen water bottle idea is that chances are you already have a freezer, you already have plastic bottles which are clean and have only had water in them, so you're only needing to get a sensor/temperature controller and maybe an extra pump and some pipes or bulkheads. A plastic tub with a bulkhead in the side and a hose attached wouldn't be hard to set up! Anyway lots of people keep axolotls, surely there is a solution out there that works so I hope you find it without it breaking the bank or needing to reinvent the wheel. I would bet there is a DIY how-to out there somewhere that you could follow.
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Apr 17, 2015 19:37
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SocketWrench posted:Been watching my angels for the past week, one female platinum and one male black paired off and have been spending their days patrolling and pecking some leaves. Got up this morn and surprised, 50-some eggs on a leaf and the female's still laying. Kinda shocked to see it as the platinums and blacks used to stay with their own kind. It was like a mini race war Awww. It's an aquatic Romeo and Julie  . It will even end tragically when her family eats her babies.
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Apr 18, 2015 07:31
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I've posted on the Caudata forums to see what folk have to say. I just figured I'd check here first since the other forum moves much more slowly. I hope I can get this sorted, I don't want to abandon my axolotl plan. I really miss having one.
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Apr 18, 2015 15:35
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Chichevache posted:Awww. It's an aquatic Romeo and Julie Did this morning. They spent the last day or so moving them from place to place and finally ate'em all. I think only about half were fertilized though, and it's only their first go at it. Part of me is happy they ate'em, but part of me is upset they did, though I dunno what I'd do with a swarm of angel fry
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Apr 18, 2015 18:41
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Three months ago my boyfriend got himself a fish tank. I had a vague interest in it but was pretty dismissive of it. Now I have my own planted nano tank that I'm cycling ready for a betta.  I added some more plants and the wood in today but so far I'm not sure I like it, I think I preferred it before. Going to wait and see how it grows but might be taking half of them out again if I don't like the result. I'm hoping to have a betta and shrimp in it, has anyone done this and had it work? Seems like most of the time the betta just eats them. Would also like a nerite snail but not sure if that would work. minema fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Apr 18, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 21:33
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minema posted:Three months ago my boyfriend got himself a fish tank. I had a vague interest in it but was pretty dismissive of it. Now I have my own planted nano tank that I'm cycling ready for a betta. I don't know about betta and shrimp, but bettas have pretty small mouths and I doubt that they'd be able to just scoop up a shrimp with no problem. As long as you've got some hiding places for them, I doubt you'd have much trouble. I've got a dwarf gourami (pretty closely related to betta) and several shrimp and he doesn't care about them at all. *** Unrelated: So, after getting my 10 gallon fully stocked, centered on an incredibly personable dwarf gourami (see below)  I've been bitten by the bug. Last week, I bought a 29 gallon tank with stand for $40 off of Craigslist and after cleaning the dirt out of it (the dude was using it to grow seedlings) and getting some plants going and starting the cycle, I've reached the "fantasize about stocking" phase. My wife and son are obsessed with the idea of getting cichlids, but I don't think I'm ready for a full cichlid tank. I hear that Kribs can be a good community member with non-cichlids, so maybe that's a compromise. But is a 29 gallon going to be big enough for a pair? What kind of hardy, beginner-ish fish might get along with these africans?
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Apr 19, 2015 15:35
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My 40B finally finished cycling and man I am in love with these GBRs. The pearl gourami are fun too but GBRs are just so colorful   minema posted:I'm hoping to have a betta and shrimp in it, has anyone done this and had it work? Seems like most of the time the betta just eats them. Would also like a nerite snail but not sure if that would work.
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Apr 21, 2015 15:17
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-Inu- posted:My 40B finally finished cycling and man I am in love with these GBRs. The pearl gourami are fun too but GBRs are just so colorful My betta sometimes attacks my otos but they just go hide under a plant for a little while.
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Apr 21, 2015 15:35
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I'm a stupid newbie to the whole aquarium thing and recently decided to scale a sea monkey toy up into a ~5 gallon brackish tank. Apparently my water conditions are really good and my eggs I bought from Amazon for $10 had a great hatch rate because I now have several hundred baby brine shrimp that I'm not sure what to do with. I could probably keep this amount of them happy and give them great lives, but the problem is going to be when they start mating and reproducing exponentially. Is there any way to sterilize them and make them unable to mate? I'm adverse to feeding them to my betta or red eared slider but I'm worried that I will end up having to sacrifice some of them so the entire population won't die. Is there maybe a way to lower the temperature where the ones alive now can survive but future eggs won't hatch? It's a 5ish gallon tub with a heater, air stone, and fluorescent aquarium bulb, I carefully controlled the salinity, and apparently it's super awesome for brine shrimp because the population exploded less than 24 hours after the eggs hit the water. EDIT: if this is better suited for the saltwater thread then I'm sorry!
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Apr 22, 2015 05:34
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To get brine shrimp to actually lay eggs I think you have to drop the water level and let the salinity go up; otherwise I think they directly make baby brineshrimp. So dropping the temperature to prevent eggs hatching won't work, it will just make all your brine shrimp grow slower and maybe have a poorer quality of life if they prefer warmer temperatures. I tried raising up some of my feeder brine shrimp in a 5 gallon tub, and they didn't do very well at all without heating. The eggs that we are sold to hatch brine shrimp are their dormant form for when there is no water around, they then change to a different phase of breeding during wetter times which is what you'll be providing them in their tank. They're hard to keep in a smaller tank because they'll moult frequently and foul up the water; if you don't have some kind of filtration and do regular vacuuming you'll find they die off. If you feed them too much it fouls up the water, if you don't feed them enough they starve fairly quickly since they need a constant supply of food particles. If your airstone bubbles are too fine, the smallest shrimp get stuck to them and can die, also the larger shrimp will catch and try to eat the bubbles which does them no good at all. I've read it's much better to just use an uncapped airline to keep the water moving. I set up a circular flow in my shrimp tub using a loop of airline with T sections leading down into the water, and elbows on the end to blow the bubbles horizontally around the walls of the tanks; I've read that its important to keep all of the water moving and to minimise dead zones which makes sure the food particles don't settle on the bottom where they will just rot as the shrimp won't eat them. You want the water to be a bit cloudy with food at all times so that your shrimp are always able to eat. What are you planning to feed them? There are plenty of recipes online for brine shrimp food which include things like powdered spirulina, flour, baby cereal, yeast, boiled egg yolk and so on but you want to stay away from stuff that makes the water dirty like egg yolk or it will mean you need to do lots of water changes. You probably still will need to do lots of water changes as growing brine shrimp are really messy - don't get rid of your airstone, you can use the airline with an airstone as your siphon to stop shrimp getting sucked up when you change the water. For filtration I tried making a Hamburg matten filter as this is probably the gentlest possible filter for tiny critters like brine shrimp. However either my sponge pores were too large or I didn't get a good seal with the sides of the tank as I kept finding baby shrimp were getting through to the wrong side of the filter. You might be able to do a better job than me! I'm an aquarium newbie too and I started out keeping copepods and ostracods, and had hoped to get a brine shrimp colony going too so I understand the appeal of watching these tiny alien critters zooming around doing their thing. I think brackish counts as fresh water so keep posting here on your progress, I'm certainly interested to hear if you can do a better job than me. Edited to add: I've seen the number 1000 per litre thrown around as a maximum density for brine shrimp, it's around 4 litres per gallon and you've got 5 gallons so as you can probably see a couple of hundred brine shrimp won't be crowded in your tank. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 06:43
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When i first introduced a betta to my red cherry shrimp tank, there were a pair of shrimp antenna sticking out of his mouth in 10 minutes of him being let out of the acclimatization bag. I have had two other bettas in shrimp tanks since then and they were either uninterested or terribly shrimp hunters. Your milage will vary, as they say.
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Apr 22, 2015 06:48
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Republicant if you find you can't succeed with brine shrimp you can always try keeping some red cherry shrimp!
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Apr 22, 2015 06:51
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One of my red cherry shrimp disappeared for a few days and tonight he re-emerged but was white? Molting? Dying? De-colorizing?
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Apr 22, 2015 07:09
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If by white you mean colourless, that can be stressed. If you mean white as in he looks cloudy, its got an infection.
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Apr 22, 2015 07:17
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SynthOrange posted:If by white you mean colourless, that can be stressed. If you mean white as in he looks cloudy, its got an infection. Colorless. So, more mood music? I've had them for about a week.
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Apr 22, 2015 07:18
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And cover for them to hide in. It could also be environmental. Like if you're keeping them on a light coloured substrate they become lighter colored as they molt.
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Apr 22, 2015 07:24
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SynthOrange posted:And cover for them to hide in. It could also be environmental. Like if you're keeping them on a light coloured substrate they become lighter colored as they molt. Hm, okay. I have javamoss growing like gangbusters, so maybe he'll get a little rest. Thanks!
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Apr 22, 2015 07:38
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Today was a good day! I noticed one of my guppies looked slimmer, and then found 3x of these: (I guess the barbs and tetras ate the rest) I noticed some "particles" in the water in my shrimp community tank and managed to snap a side view:  I've spotted 5 or 6 so far, they seemed to be drifting aimlessly in the current but upon magnification they're swimming their little hearts out. They land like pros whenever they get near to anything, which just takes ages because they're so drat small (and cute). I'm sure there are more in there but once they've landed on something they are next to invisible. Due to the exaggerated bent angle in their tails I think they must be the Darwin Rednose shrimp Caridina Gulf1 since the adults all have the same overall shape. I hope they find enough to eat! I've put a tiny bit of Hikari First Bites powder in for them as it seems to spread everywhere which should make it easier for them to locate. I managed to find one that had landed on the glass and got a quick vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rG5rV18AilA I was worried eariler today about whether the water was warm enough or too warm but I am going to follow the number one rule of "LEAVE IT ALONE" for now since these guys hatched fine and seem perfectly happy.
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Apr 23, 2015 11:09
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I just made a DIY co2 for my 5g tank. This is supposed to last more than a month. We will see, its my first co2 setup. create simple syrup 1:1 cup water cup sugar bring to boil add 1 packet knox gelatin set over night add to 2L bottle cubed jello mix 1tsp protein powder mix from GNC for sweet gainz (The key thing is that it has protein and vitamin/minerals, Anything that has “yeast extract” in it is perfect.) 1Tbs molasses 1 tsp alkalinity buffer I used seachem cause I had it, you can use baking soda also 1/4tsp champagne activated yeast fill 2/3 the way up the bottle with warm water huff gas r0ck0 fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Apr 26, 2015 |
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Apr 25, 2015 21:02
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r0ck0 posted:I just made a DIY c02 for my 5g tank. This is supposed to last more than a month. We will see, its my first co2 setup. hook up a homebrew to it. Somebody tell me this can be done.
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Apr 26, 2015 06:04
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This seems kinda dumb, but okay. So I sold some bristlenose plecos to a girl over Facebook, we met on Saturday, she took the fish, I got the money, and we parted ways. I get an email today that one of the plecos died. Now this fish I'd had for over a loving year and never had a problem. It was healthy and fine. Bagged separately and shouldn't have been in the bag for more than an hour. But as a private breeder am I supposed to replace this fish? I don't have another one and it's not like even Petsmart just says oh sure, replace away, these days.
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Apr 27, 2015 09:29
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Cowslips Warren posted:I don't have another one and it's not like even Petsmart just says oh sure, replace away, these days. I've never done it because all mine die after the seven days but supposedly they will replace a dead fish within seven days.
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Apr 27, 2015 14:26
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Cowslips Warren posted:This seems kinda dumb, but okay. So I sold some bristlenose plecos to a girl over Facebook, we met on Saturday, she took the fish, I got the money, and we parted ways. I get an email today that one of the plecos died. Did you say there was a 24 hour guarantee or anything of the sort? No warranty implied, you want a warranty buy your fish from petsmart.
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Apr 27, 2015 15:22
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Looks like I'm in for an interesting time raising these red nose shrimp babies. The guy I got them from insists that they'll breed fine in a freshwater aquarium and no need for brackish. They're definitely an immature nymph form not a shrimplet and the way they move in the water column I'm thinking they might be filter feeding. I'm trying green water and filter sponge squeezings from my pond, pulverized cloudy pea juice and particles, and little bites powder hopefully to give them enough choices in food that something is small enough and acceptable for them to eat. The adults seem to love peas. When shining a light in to try and count them, I've noticed they orient themselves based on the direction it's coming from, tail always pointing toward the light, quite funny to watch them all rotate sideways but probably I also need to be careful about giving them correct lighting. One of my red cherries is going to drop her babies any day now too, it's been around 22 days; and there are berried chameleon shrimp in the mix as well. My greatest fear is how to water change without killing them off either by cold water shock or sucking them up or leaving it too long and having a tank crash and losing everyone. To be fair though the adult red nose seem to be quite robust and hardy so maybe I should just calm down and wait and see.
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Apr 28, 2015 08:44
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Can anyone point me in the right direction for aquaponics? I'm an absolute newbie at even taking care of an aquarium, and I'm sure aquaponics isn't the best thing to jump right into, but I've always been lurking in this and the saltwater thread because I'm highly curious about keeping fish and already do some gardening myself. I figure this would be the place to ask because making sure the fish don't die is going to be the hardest thing to accomplish and that's what I need to learn the most about, especially with filtering through gravel beds and how different veggies might affect the whole system. Didn't find a thread even mentioning aquaponics anywhere, so I hope it doesn't turn out to be something gimmicky and awful to do, and hope someone can help. Also looking things up, apparently tilapia is popular for aquaponics, but also somewhat hard to get within California due to laws and not wanting to introduce them into the habitat. I would only ever run something like this in my own backyard anyway, which is nowhere close to even a canal or a natural body of water. Tilapia is pretty easy to cook with, so I'd love to raise those, but it looks like it might be impossible outside of a few counties in Southern California (I'm in Solano county, up north between SF and Sac).
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Apr 28, 2015 09:54
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