|
revmoo posted:I'm tearing my hair out trying to do my first chain/wheel adjustment on my 300. I did it yesterday and it looked good, doing equal turns on each side etc etc. When I took it for a drive today there was a TON of chain noise so I immediately turned around and put it on the stand to have a look. The problem I'm having is that nothing matches up--the only way I can get my motion pro chain alignment tool and chain tension set correctly is if I crank the left adjuster (chain side) tight and leave the right side so completely loose that I can grab the wheel and move the wheel on that side. Nothing is matching up, not the swingarm marks, not the threads on the adjuster rods, nothing. Is it ok to have one side so loose you can move the wheel with your hand (before tightening the axle nut)? I've totally loosened everything up and tried to start from the beginning several times over and over and nothing seems to be working. We just did this on my 300 a couple weeks ago. It took a while, because the goddamn swingarm marks are hard to line up. Do you have someone who can help you? We ended up having me hold the wheel in place while my husband yanked the wheel into position.
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 18:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 22:10 |
|
|
So I guess I have two main questions: is it ok for the wheel to be loose on the right side before torquing the axle nut? That's the only way I can get the hash marks on the swingarm even close. Are the adjusters purely for adjustment, or do they need to be tight? Also how much chain noise is acceptable? Any? I'm really getting frustrated here. I can line the marks on the swingarm up within 1mm, chain tension is a hair loose, take it for a spin and I get this vrvrvrvvrvrvrvrr sound chain noise driving around. I really don't understand what I'm doing wrong. revmoo fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Apr 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 18:37
|
|
|
It shouldn't be *that* bad, but using a tool I got with a clamp that you put on the rear sprocket that aligns with the chain, I've come to the conclusion that the adjustment marks on every bike I've ever worked on is simply "good enough". No matter what brand I've checked, the factory marks are very far from exact. How old is your chain?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 18:52
|
|
|
Minkee posted:Not to sound like a smug rear end in a top hat, but if you aren't willing to spend money on gear you might want to reconsider the idea of riding a motorcycle. It only takes one mistake to ruin the rest of your life. Also it doesn't cost 800 dollars for gear if you're willing to start out with cheaper gear. Like others have said, I'm only putting around my yard and local dead end street, just enough to get used to the bike and get a better idea if I like it. I can assure everyone here that if I don't immediately put this thing up on CL, I'm going to take whatever the Canadian equivalent of MSF is and get proper gear. I'm not letting myself get a whiff of a real road until I have said gear, a bike license, and insurance. It would be illegal to ride otherwise. And even then I'll have as close of an equivalent to real gear as I can get. I'm not doing this in shorts, T-shirt, and crocs. As for online shopping, typically the shipping and import tax to Canada makes going online no cheaper than just walking into a store. There are things like Craigslist, and kijiji. But finding a good deal there takes a bit of time. Especially for something that will fit. Also typically things are generally 20% more expensive in Canada than the US. So while I appreciate you guys saying "things are cheap! Check out these US websites!" It does little to help me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 19:37
|
|
|
Nidhg00670000 posted:It shouldn't be *that* bad, but using a tool I got with a clamp that you put on the rear sprocket that aligns with the chain, I've come to the conclusion that the adjustment marks on every bike I've ever worked on is simply "good enough". No matter what brand I've checked, the factory marks are very far from exact. Bike is brand new, this is the first service. My biggest hangup was having the axle loose with the adjusters set in alignment. It appears that only the axle nut is responsible for locating the rear wheel, and the adjusters have nothing to do with that. I just did 70 miles on it and it's riding fine.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2015 22:11
|
|
|
Not entirely sure what the problem is that you're having, cause I don't quite get the "loose on one side" thing, but you may just be looking at the procedure wrong. Loosen the axle (just loose enough so that the axle will move front/back in the swingarm, don't take the nut all the way off), adjust the adjusters so that: 1. the chain slack matches the specs, and 2. the axle is at the same adjuster mark on both sides. Tighten the axle nut appropriately, and then depending on the design, snug up the adjusters so they don't fall out or anything. How the axle feels when the axle nut is loose is irrelevant. If you're loosening an adjuster and the axle isn't moving forward much along with the adjusters, just smack the rear end of the tire forward with your fist so it butts up against the adjusters.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 01:42
|
|
|
revmoo posted:So I guess I have two main questions: is it ok for the wheel to be loose on the right side before torquing the axle nut? That's the only way I can get the hash marks on the swingarm even close. Are the adjusters purely for adjustment, or do they need to be tight? Also how much chain noise is acceptable? Any? Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you, but what do you mean by "a hair loose"? The chain should have a specified tension, usually like 2 inches of travel. Much more than just a hair loose.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 02:19
|
|
|
Just because, the range on the 300 is 20mm-40mm, or just under to just over an inch.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 05:23
|
|
|
Having a bit of a strange issue, wondering if anyone has any insights. Still the 83 Tempter, only major change is new tires (Dunlop D404s roughly a month old/200-300 miles) On 3 occassions now I've had the handling get EXTREMELY tight, to the point I have to kill off almost all speed to make a corner, even changing lanes can be tough if I have to get over quick... Not fun, and also pants shittingly terrifying considering the first time it happened mid turn. Comes quickly and disappears just as fast. Speed/Rev range doesn't seem to factor in at all. My guess is it might be an issue with tire balance but I am at a loss, anyone have any ideas? Fork turns freely from a stop, no flat spots as far as I can see. Spindle seems tight and on the center stand both front and rear wheel still seem to be mounted true. Until I figure this out I'm worried that riding the bike may be  .
SkaAndScreenplays fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Apr 27, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 05:37
|
|
|
SkaAndScreenplays posted:On 3 occassions now I've had the handling get EXTREMELY tight, to the point I have to kill off almost all speed to make a corner, even changing lanes can be tough if I have to get over quick... Not fun, and also pants shittingly terrifying considering the first time it happened mid turn. Make sure none of your cables are snagging anywhere, and then double check your steering head bearings.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 09:46
|
|
|
Collateral Damage posted:What do you mean by tight? Like the handlebars get stuck and you can't turn them? Yeah, they get really hard to turn. Haven't figured out what if anything triggers it. They do turn free when the bike is at a stop. Could it be an issue with the way the wheels are mounted?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 09:52
|
|
|
SkaAndScreenplays posted:Yeah, they get really hard to turn. Haven't figured out what if anything triggers it. They do turn free when the bike is at a stop. That seems really, really unlikely to be wheel-related - that would manifest itself as vibration and uneven tyre wear. IN fact I can't think of any mechanism that would cause the wheels to have that effect, and I'm seconding checking your head bearings really, really carefully. It also seems like the sort of thing that should stop you riding the bike at all until you've worked out exactly what's wrong. (Quick question though - is this your first bike?)
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 12:33
|
|
|
First bike yes and have had it for a little over a year.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 13:03
|
|
|
Watch this. The procedure is the same regardless of bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi_fmONC9Jg&t=76s Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Apr 27, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 13:19
|
|
|
Collateral Damage posted:Make sure none of your cables are snagging anywhere, goddamnedtwisto posted:It also seems like the sort of thing that should stop you riding the bike at all until you've worked out exactly what's wrong.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 15:50
|
|
|
I have a 2006 ZX-10 and last week during a ride my Fuel injection trouble light came on, pulled the code and it’s for the exhaust butterfly valve actuator that’s not doing its thing anymore. I'm not quite sure what the purpose of it is, is it purely emissions related? Lots of people remove them when they go to an aftermarket exhaust (I’m still running stock). My question is, is it safe to run the bike with the exhaust butterfly valve stuck open? It seems to run fine, had to ride it for 1 hour with the light blinking to get back home but other than the light I didn’t have any weird behavior. I have a track day on Friday and I’m not sure I will be able to get a replacement part in time. Will it be ok to run that way or should I cancel my track day booking?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 16:02
|
|
Sinek posted:I have a 2006 ZX-10 and last week during a ride my Fuel injection trouble light came on, pulled the code and it’s for the exhaust butterfly valve actuator that’s not doing its thing anymore. I'm not quite sure what the purpose of it is, is it purely emissions related? Lots of people remove them when they go to an aftermarket exhaust (I’m still running stock). My question is, is it safe to run the bike with the exhaust butterfly valve stuck open? It seems to run fine, had to ride it for 1 hour with the light blinking to get back home but other than the light I didn’t have any weird behavior. I have a track day on Friday and I’m not sure I will be able to get a replacement part in time. Will it be ok to run that way or should I cancel my track day booking? You can remove the spring on the butterfly valve and it'll hold it wide open. It's not a problem, but you'll lose some low end. On a liter bike I wouldn't be that concerned about it TBH. On my R6 I just wired a resistor in where the valve position sensor plugs in - I'm sure someone out there makes something similar for your bike if you want an aftermarket solution. For me I just gutted the stock box and used it as the resistor housing. On the R6 the valve is cable controlled, so if you want you could just remove the cables if that's how yours functions and it'll leave the valve open while also not throwing error codes.
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 16:32
|
|
|
Baller Witness Bro posted:You can remove the spring on the butterfly valve and it'll hold it wide open. It's not a problem, but you'll lose some low end. On a liter bike I wouldn't be that concerned about it TBH. Yeah its also cable controlled on the ZX-10, the actuator is actually in the subframe under the passenger seat. i am assuming it failed with it stuck wide open. if it was stuck closed it probably wouldn't run very well (i think?). Sounds good! hopefully tech inspection won't give me grief for my blinking Fuel injection light.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 16:41
|
|
Sinek posted:Yeah its also cable controlled on the ZX-10, the actuator is actually in the subframe under the passenger seat. i am assuming it failed with it stuck wide open. if it was stuck closed it probably wouldn't run very well (i think?). Sounds good! hopefully tech inspection won't give me grief for my blinking Fuel injection light. If warning lights failed tech most track guys would be hosed I'd imagine. You'll be just fine. Every exhaust valve I've seen (only on popular Japanese bikes TBF) defaults to fully open just in case of an error. It's an easy fix no matter what really. Searching on some ZX specific forums will probably get you all set up.
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2015 17:29
|
|
|
I'm just kind of looking over specs on wikipedia and can someone explain to me what is so radically different between an Aprilia RS125 and Honda CBR125R engine that one is drastically more powerful than the other?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 00:14
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:I'm just kind of looking over specs on wikipedia and can someone explain to me what is so radically different between an Aprilia RS125 and Honda CBR125R engine that one is drastically more powerful than the other? The prillia is a GP replica two-stroke engine. The cbr125 is a 4t e: the comparable Honda would be the CBR 125's discontinued predecessor-- the NSR125
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 00:15
|
|
|
Razzled posted:The prillia is a GP replica two-stroke engine. The cbr125 is a 4t Oh, that would do it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 00:15
|
|
|
What would cause clutch plates to stick after the engine warms up? 1980 CB900. The bike sat for a while and the plates were stuck. Like, putting it into gear with the lever pulled kills the engine, and the starter makes the bike jump forward in first with the clutch pulled. I adjusted the clutch at the clutch cover, and both ends of the cable. Same problem. I took the clutch cover off, manually split the plates apart, re-oiled them, and put it back together. Now it's a little better. Still sticky. If I try to start in gear with the lever pulled, it lugs the starter, but manages to power through and start. Then it still drags the wheel a bit cold, but idles OK if I put the rear brake on. Once it gets hot, it goes back to sticking to the point that the bike stalls. Could this be bad or wrong oil? It's 10w-40 synthetic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 00:57
|
|
|
This reads like the clutch or cable just isn't adjusted right.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 01:27
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:This reads like the clutch or cable just isn't adjusted right. If it isn't this (it overwhelmingly likely is) then it could be the plates are installed in the wrong order or something similar to that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 01:30
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:This reads like the clutch or cable just isn't adjusted right. Plus it was all working fine last year. Guess I'll try an oil change tomorrow. I'm out of other ideas. (And it probably needs one anyway.)
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 04:39
|
|
|
Have had the same problem with an old 175cc that sat for years. Even though you pry the plates apart, there's gunk etc that makes them stick. Adjusting the clutch cable a bit too tight might help, and you'd think that just slipping it for ages would wear away the gunk, but the best solution is to pull the clutch, clean the steel plates and replace the friction plates. Afterwards, fresh 10W-40 mineral oil (or whatever else the manual calls for). It's not a very difficult job.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 08:25
|
|
|
So a very weird question, not mechanical. This morning I was riding to work on the highway, no other traffic around except one semi a quarter mile in front of me, and I started to feel really weird. Like, sort of light headed, but mostly like I had all of a sudden grown "too big" for my bike, like the handlebars were too close together, I was perched on the seat hovering a mile above it, no contact with the road, etc. I pulled over after a few miles, shut everything down, took my helmet off, and was fine in a few minutes, and finished the rest of my commute to work, getting slippery in the sand and dodging cows and everything, no problem. The same thing happened last summer when I rode through a big cloud of some kind of steam that was part of some road construction going on. Same thing worked to make it better, too - pull over, chill for a bit, get going again. The best thing I can figure is that it was some sort of carbon monoxide getting trapped in my helmet. Anything like this ever happen to anyone else?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 16:52
|
|
|
Try cracking your visor for some fresh air.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 16:57
|
|
|
Don't ride so soon after blazing, you gotta wait 15 or 20 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:04
|
|
|
There is nothing better than a blaze+ride.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Try cracking your visor for some fresh air. Yeah, I did, no help. All vents open, too. Maybe it's something to do with my helmet - HJC IS17.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:12
|
|
|
Ah there's your problem, the HJC IS17 is laced with LSD - most consider it a desired feature, but if you're not expecting it it can be off-putting. e: serious answer, maybe you have some kind of situationally triggered vertigo or something similar? I know I have feelings similar to what you're describing sometimes right before I try something new and slightly scary. I wait until it subsides and I continue what I was about to do. Maybe you get that feeling from something that happens when motorcycling, which is kind of scary. Or are you on any kind of medication that might act up like that? alnilam fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Apr 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:13
|
|
|
Sounds like low blood sugar to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:34
|
|
|
revmoo posted:Sounds like low blood sugar to me. Could be this or low blood pressure, do you drink enough water? Do you get dizzy spells during normal times when you're not on your motorcycle?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:37
|
|
|
Were there chemtrails in the air above you? Were you close to a smart-meter, or HAARP?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 17:40
|
|
|
Ah, chemtrails! I knew that's what it was! I shall write my congressman directly about this concerning situation! More seriously, this has happened exactly twice now, with a reproducable solution. I was rather just hoping to gather extra data from anyone who had experienced similar, maybe from getting a big hit of exhaust stuck in their helmet or something. Whatevs.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 18:05
|
|
|
I've had similar feelings, and I'm still not sure what causes it. Usually it doesn't happen when I'm on the bike, though. It could be blood sugar related, and it could be dehydration. Do you wear glasses? Have you had your vision checked recently?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 18:59
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Ah, chemtrails! I knew that's what it was! I shall write my congressman directly about this concerning situation! Vertigo (inner ear problems), blood sugar, blood pressure, medication/supplement side effect, dehydration, plain exhaustion, claustrophobia, or some combination of all that.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 19:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 22:10 |
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:So a very weird question, not mechanical. This morning I was riding to work on the highway, no other traffic around except one semi a quarter mile in front of me, and I started to feel really weird. Like, sort of light headed, but mostly like I had all of a sudden grown "too big" for my bike, like the handlebars were too close together, I was perched on the seat hovering a mile above it, no contact with the road, etc. I pulled over after a few miles, shut everything down, took my helmet off, and was fine in a few minutes, and finished the rest of my commute to work, getting slippery in the sand and dodging cows and everything, no problem. Sorry about that, I was riding in front of a truck and was having a pretty gassy morning today.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2015 19:18
|
|
