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Razzled posted:Hmm.. noticed this today on the DRZ. Is it an issue? Does the DRZ have a sight-glass in the master cylinder reservoir? Is it tar-black inside, or is it a normal color? If you can't see inside it, open it up and check the levels and fluid. If it's clear, I'd chalk it up to some rubber deterioration and maybe an overfilled reservoir.
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May 4, 2015 00:05
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astrollinthepork posted:I am a bit north of Columbus, OH. Right in the middle of the glacial plains so I've got nothing but long, straight, and flat roads. OH-315 between Delaware and Worthington is the only decent road I know of, but it's less than a 10 mile stretch and packed with traffic. Anyone know of anything better that doesn't involve a 3 hour ride to SE Ohio? I grew up on Riverside Dr a bit north of the zoo so I'll give some recommendations for stuff nearby, but be forewarned: I haven't lived or been to the area in over ten years and looking at google maps it looks like it's become completely overrun by developments so who knows what all's changed. Also, when I was driving these roads it was when I got my driver's license so I'm probably looking back at them with nostalgia and every road was most likely an awesome new experience for me. A lot of these are also short bits interspersed by boring crap. From 315 I remember Carriage Rd was fun, then go north and take a left on Home Rd to Riverside Drive and take a right. Klondike Rd, once you go past 42 was my after school rally course. Mills Rd from Bellpoint to Ostrander is ok. Umm, poo poo, everything else I remember was just flat straight stupid poo poo like racing trains on 203 from Delaware to Prospect. I guess seeing if Mid-Ohio does track days might be your best bet. Sorry, I got all excited until I actually started thinking about how boring the roads there are.
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May 4, 2015 01:36
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While we're doing broken drzchat, does anyone know anything about working on ttransmissions for these things? Is it worth it to fix myself or should I just drop the motor and take it to a shop?
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May 4, 2015 03:02
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Marxalot posted:While we're doing broken drzchat, does anyone know anything about working on ttransmissions for these things? Is it worth it to fix myself or should I just drop the motor and take it to a shop? Where are you and do you have a lot of beer?
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May 4, 2015 06:19
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internet inc posted:I tossed it back on the tender overnight and it showed full this morning. When I put it back in the bike earlier today, it did not even do anything. No power at all. I understand how it could be the battery, but wouldn't it at least power something (gauges, etc)? If the battery tender can charge it, it must mean there's at least some power left in the battery? Have you checked the fuses?
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May 4, 2015 06:53
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I'm buying a Sena s20 set today as we finally got fed up with the insane flakiness of the scala rider g9. Baking in the sun trying to get the intercom to magically connect(which on a good day takes 2 min after you push the button with no indication that it actually does something) having it blast BUSY BUSY BUSY BUSY on repeat at max volume the instant you turn a unit on was the last straw. My question is for those of you that use in ear headphones with your intercom, what do you do with the cables? do you use shortened ones, stuff the cables behind the helmet liner or loop it down into your jacket?
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May 4, 2015 09:16
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Got a puncture in my rear tyre, taking the opportunity to get shot of the stock TVS and replace it with the manual recommended Continental. Is it necessary or advisable to replace the front at the same time? Bearing in mind it's got plenty of tread left and no damage on it (except for the fact that it's a supposedly lovely tyre with a back to front tread pattern) I'm leaning towards yes anyway since they're only £36 each, it's more for future reference.
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May 4, 2015 09:33
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cursedshitbox posted:Where are you and do you have a lot of beer? Houston, and I have a fridge just for Beer/Soda/very large leftovers. The transmission likes to drop back down to 3rd/4th gear when shifting up to 4th/5th gear, and now it's starting to do a thing where you can depress the shift lever even though you're in first and it shouldn't move at all. Which wouldn't be so bad if that didn't mean it's about to drop me into neutral as soon as I get on the throttle. For now I'm riding around the problem by shifting alot more firmly/slowly, but it looks like I'll need to do a rebuild this summer/fall. Clutchless downshifting is a bad habit. Fun as hell, but a really bad habit 
Marxalot fucked around with this message at 10:57 on May 4, 2015 |
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May 4, 2015 10:53
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Marxalot posted:Houston, and I have a fridge just for Beer/Soda/very large leftovers. What's so bad about it? Same as upshift as long as you get it right.
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May 4, 2015 11:10
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Shimrod posted:What's so bad about it? Same as upshift as long as you get it right. No it's not, because you can't rev-match on a downshift without blipping the throttle, which is a dumb idea when you're meant to be slowing down, so you're likely to be crash-shifting it which *will* gently caress up your selector forks and gear teeth.
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May 4, 2015 11:21
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Marxalot posted:Houston, and I have a fridge just for Beer/Soda/very large leftovers. That thing was so cherry too 😞 To play Devils advocate with your wallet : http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop/product/act-wide-ratio-gear-set/582 Just kidding. I'd buy a used engine first. Might be a good time if you were planning on a bore kit / cam swap to do so now.
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May 4, 2015 16:21
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I've gotta start pulling apart the fuel line and carb on my bike to try to figure out a periodic fuel flow issue. Since I won't have time to do that work until this coming weekend, most likely, I'm wondering if there's any tools I can get to make the job easier. I've got carb cleaner and most of the normal tools for working on a bike, and the bike only has one carb so I don't need to balance anything.
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May 4, 2015 16:23
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Easy fix for all your Buell problems
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May 4, 2015 16:26
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Razzled posted:Easy fix for all your Buell problems I think I can get both of those from Autozone, thanks
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May 4, 2015 17:11
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Didn't someone in the crash thread literally have their Buell explode into a fireball underneath them in a crash? I think they even rode a Blast. Edit Older post, I think. 2+ years or so. The guy needed skin grafts and I think his buddy who rode with him lost a limb.
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May 4, 2015 17:27
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Supradog posted:I'm buying a Sena s20 set today as we finally got fed up with the insane flakiness of the scala rider g9. Baking in the sun trying to get the intercom to magically connect(which on a good day takes 2 min after you push the button with no indication that it actually does something) having it blast BUSY BUSY BUSY BUSY on repeat at max volume the instant you turn a unit on was the last straw. I just put whatever is slack into my jacket. Has worked really well so far, and I find that I don't get too many pressure/friction points that put stress on the headphones. I went large and got a pair of expensive earbuds, and last summer the way I was doing things wrecked the cable. Lucky for me, Bose does a full-on "oh it broke? Here's a new pair. And a new warranty." So far since I've been putting the wires into my jacket, I haven't had any trouble.
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May 4, 2015 20:39
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goddamnedtwisto posted:No it's not, because you can't rev-match on a downshift without blipping the throttle, which is a dumb idea when you're meant to be slowing down, so you're likely to be crash-shifting it which *will* gently caress up your selector forks and gear teeth. You should be blipping on downshift, but use the clutch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrbZJbXwgrY (starts at 1:51)
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May 4, 2015 22:10
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kuffs posted:You should be blipping on downshift, but use the clutch Exactly my point, blipping without using the clutch would be a loving stupid thing to do.
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May 4, 2015 22:21
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Exactly my point, blipping without using the clutch would be a loving stupid thing to do. It works if you're messing around because it unloads the gears enough for a smooth shift if you time it right. kuffs posted:You should be blipping on downshift, but use the clutch The funny part is they are blipping on a bike with a slipper clutch... and right after he says it's not really necessary on bikes with slippers. (to be fair, stock slippers are set up tight) I don't blip, I modulate the clutch because I don't have a slipper. Coming off a straight - hit your reference point to start braking Get into the brakes smoothly Start dropping gears while modulating the clutch to prevent wheel lockup or just drop gears on a slipper bike while dumping the clutch While still on the front brake you turn in at your marker Stay on the front brake to keep the front end loaded to the apex Transition off the brakes smoothly while adding maintenance throttle. You NEVER want to be off the gas AND brakes at the same time. Gas and brakes control what the suspension is doing. Roll into the throttle as you trade it for lean angle. There are ways to add throttle earlier such as getting your head way the gently caress down by the front wheel as this effectively decreases lean angle for a given line. Where you get off the brakes and where you get on the throttle are what separates fast riders from really fast riders. Anyway, that was my daily blabbering about poo poo no one cares about. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:01 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 01:45
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Baller Witness Bro posted:That thing was so cherry too 😞 It's in good shape (transmission wonkyness aside), but it's not exactly cherry anymore  I'm considering throwing on a BB kit/cams if I end up doing the transmission work myself though. It's still in decent enough shape to put off opening the motor for another 5+k mi, so I might just put it off until I have enough disposable income again to get stupid with a DRZ. E: The top end is still probably good for another 30-40k (or whenever I pull a Chichevache and forget to oil it), so I might just keep it stock. $1000 to make a drz (grenade) almost as fast as a WR450 probably isn't worth it. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 01:59 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 01:55
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BlackMK4 posted:It works if you're messing around because it unloads the gears enough for a smooth shift if you time it right. This made me feel like I very much misunderstood my new rider pamphlets and the MSF course. Are you saying I should be using my front brake while turning?
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May 5, 2015 02:16
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Seashell Salesman posted:This made me feel like I very much misunderstood my new rider pamphlets and the MSF course. Are you saying I should be using my front brake while turning? I'm talking track/race poo poo. 
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May 5, 2015 02:31
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Seashell Salesman posted:This made me feel like I very much misunderstood my new rider pamphlets and the MSF course. Are you saying I should be using my front brake while turning? If you're a new rider don't brake while cornering. Its a terrible idea. If you're a more experienced rider its possible to do, but not always a wise idea. Always get your braking done before you enter the turn unless you're a badass. Minkee fucked around with this message at 04:05 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 04:01
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I know thins is a super advanced technical skill but motogp riders and the likes use the rear brake to kick the back end out a bit in corners correct?
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May 5, 2015 04:57
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Most of them don't use their rear brake for much anymore.
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May 5, 2015 05:05
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What do they recommend for street use again? If you have to mash the brakes 60%+ front and the rest rear? Or is it just a stoplight thing to rest your foot there so you're not rolling
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May 5, 2015 05:08
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Depends on the bike but for me regular braking is 100% front and the rear is saved for specific purposes. Dragging it to go slowly mostly. On Sunday I had to ride down a steeply inclined hill with gravel and bits everywhere and I used the rear and engine braking. The bike's weight pitches to the front so as long as you are smooth you can put a lot of braking on the front, so much that the rear is fairly worthless cause there is very little weight on the rear tire. It's also much easier to modulate the front with you fingers on a lever as opposed to the rear with your foot on 1 part of a lever. The few times I've felt strong braking from the rear when I tried to use both basically told me that I could put on a lot more front brake. nsaP fucked around with this message at 05:12 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 05:09
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You're opening a can of worms but rear brake usage varies from rider to rider - some never touch it, others user it a lot. A lot of the 'sliding' you're seeing is the rear being unweighted while on the front brakes entering a corner which causes the rear to drift towards the outside of the corner naturally. It can be aided by the rear brake or coming off the throttle abruptly (certain corners) to transfer more weight forward. Some use the rear brake to scrub speed mid corner or settle the chassis. Some of the riders are using thumb operated rear brakes, which I personally will be trying just for the hell of it. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:17 on May 5, 2015 |
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May 5, 2015 05:11
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All of this stuff varies by rider and also by your skill level and experience. Learning to ride reminded me of when I was a kid in school. When you are younger they teach you things, but in a simplified form so you can comprehend it at the time. Then you advance a few grades and learn that the simple form that you learned isn't how it really is. Kinda the same with riding. You learn how to ride one way when you are new because it is easier and you are also focusing on learning a lot of new things...both operating the bike and how to ride it. Once operating the bike becomes second nature, then you can move on the 'advanced' techniques and learning more about feel on the bike and why it does what it does. I remember feeling betrayed when I learned the electron field of an atom was nothing like the the Bohr model.
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May 5, 2015 05:17
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Yeah if I need to really to stop I usually do 70% front and 30% rear or something like that. Otherwise if I'm coasting to a halt or something like that. Sorry not looking for a debate just wondering what you guys do. I could see the rear tire sliding out being an issue for someone that panics and mashes the rear and front
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May 5, 2015 05:21
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Nostalgia4Dicks posted:Yeah if I need to really to stop I usually do 70% front and 30% rear or something like that. Otherwise if I'm coasting to a halt or something like that. Sorry not looking for a debate just wondering what you guys do. I could see the rear tire sliding out being an issue for someone that panics and mashes the rear and front The harder you brake, the least useful the rear is. Like most people say, the rear under hard braking is more to help direct the bike rather than improve braking performance. Also depends on your bike's geometry: bikes with wider wheelbases can use the back more of the time.
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May 5, 2015 05:36
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During my years as a GP rider, I...
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May 5, 2015 05:41
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Baller Witness Bro posted:During my years as a GP rider, I... Nah none of us are GP riders but when you are entering a corner like this it's pretty easy to surmise their rear brake input 
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May 5, 2015 05:50
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nsaP posted:Nah none of us are GP riders but when you are entering a corner like this it's pretty easy to surmise their rear brake input Left hand rear brake bro #stuntlyfe
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May 5, 2015 06:11
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You joke but it's a thing...  
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May 5, 2015 06:17
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That moviestar one has to be fairly recent too
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May 5, 2015 06:20
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BlackMK4 posted:It works if you're messing around because it unloads the gears enough for a smooth shift if you time it right. I've been working on making my upshifts smoother. What I've been doing is pre-loading the gear selector slightly, then quickly twisting my throttle wrist to close the throttle, then completely shifting as I engage and release the clutch and ease back on the throttle. The whole process goes really fast. I have smooth fast shifts like this maybe 90% of the time. I try to shift from 1st to 2nd above 8k because shifts are smoother at higher rpm. What can I do, other than practice, to have smooth shifts all the time? The 10% where they are less smooth usually involves clunking sounds. Bike is a Ninja 300.
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May 5, 2015 06:23
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You're good dude
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May 5, 2015 06:26
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Giblet Plus! posted:I've been working on making my upshifts smoother. What I've been doing is pre-loading the gear selector slightly, then quickly twisting my throttle wrist to close the throttle, then completely shifting as I engage and release the clutch and ease back on the throttle. The whole process goes really fast. I have smooth fast shifts like this maybe 90% of the time. I try to shift from 1st to 2nd above 8k because shifts are smoother at higher rpm. Other than practice and getting better? Spending the $250-300 on a quickshifter and then another $fuckknows on the power commander that you need to run it.
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May 5, 2015 07:10
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Giblet Plus! posted:I've been working on making my upshifts smoother. What I've been doing is pre-loading the gear selector slightly, then quickly twisting my throttle wrist to close the throttle, then completely shifting as I engage and release the clutch and ease back on the throttle. The whole process goes really fast. I have smooth fast shifts like this maybe 90% of the time. I try to shift from 1st to 2nd above 8k because shifts are smoother at higher rpm. Seems like you should be graduating to clutchless upshifts. Do exactly what you're doing, except don't bother with the clutch. Smoother and faster than what you're doing, and as long as you fully engage the gear it's perfectly safe.
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May 5, 2015 07:30
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