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Anne Whateley posted:Color is going to be super, super important for a makeup table. Yeah, that. There aren’t a whole lot of high‐CRI LED bulbs, which is what you want here. That said, in practice, any LED trounces any fluorescent, even at the same or lower CRI. Globe shape limits your choices further. This Feit is the only product I could find that fits both criteria. I don’t know how powerful the bulbs you’re using now are, so I can’t say how it compares there.
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May 12, 2015 12:44
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Wasabi the J posted:
Maybe the mean in the kitchen.
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May 12, 2015 14:18
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Zemyla posted:Well, each of those sconces can generally handle 100 W, since they were made in the days before CFLs and LEDs. Makeup table/tanning booth. Its a multi-tasker and a time-saver!
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May 12, 2015 14:24
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So I'm bidding on this house (that I really loving want) and the realtor is refusing to budge on the price when I cite a constant basement flooding issue. Her counter: buy a dehumidifier. Not gonna do much against two inches of water.
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May 12, 2015 14:28
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Tyson Tomko posted:It may have been said before, but I think it's pretty obvious what's so appealing about incandescents...the fact you can buy a shitload of them for 2 or 3 dollars! The longevity claims on the box are never backed up by an actual warranty, either. LED bulbs may actually be worse for this than CFLs in practice, because an individual bulb might contain anywhere between 5 and 40 emitters wired in series. Sure an individual emitter might have 10,000 hours runtime MTBF but it only take one on the wrong end of the bathtub curve to give you a $20 paperweight. That said, I replaced my halogen downlights with single-emitter 7.5W LEDs and they seem pretty good, knock on wood. If they last for slightly longer than a year on average which seems achievable they pay themselves off anyway.
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May 12, 2015 14:31
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:So I'm bidding on this house (that I really loving want) and the realtor is refusing to budge on the price when I cite a constant basement flooding issue. Her counter: buy a dehumidifier. Not gonna do much against two inches of water. Why does the realtor have any say on the price?
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May 12, 2015 14:34
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Backov posted:Why does the realtor have any say on the price? Because the sellers don't live there and don't give a poo poo. It's been sorta vacant for a year or two. A relative had been in and out. I'm guessing it was grandma's house and they're finally getting around to selling it. My realtor has been getting lots of shade from this jerk too. This agent the sellers hired is a real prick.
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May 12, 2015 14:52
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:Because the sellers don't live there and don't give a poo poo. It's been sorta vacant for a year or two. A relative had been in and out. I'm guessing it was grandma's house and they're finally getting around to selling it. Been there. Made the mistake once of getting a realtor in a "dual agent" situation with a house me and my ex were interested in. When it became clear she wasn't able to be impartial, we got our own realtor. (I'm not sure what it's actually called - the thing where the realtor represents you and the sellers. Never again!) Realtor #1 then sunk the deal by telling her clients we were untrustworthy.
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May 12, 2015 15:10
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Most realtors are scum who actively conspire to rob both buyer and seller. When I sold my third home FSBO, I realized two things: 1) Realtors don't do anything you can't do yourself with a $300 MLS listing, a $40 custom yard sign, and your camera phone. 2) The only service a realtor provides is to insulate you from their shady dealings. I offered a 2% buyer's agent commission which still amounted to over 10 grand. I got an endless conga line of realtors telling me with varying degrees of subtlety that they would steer their clients elsewhere if I didn't raise it. At least one deliberately sabotaged what would have been an accepted offer when I said no thanks. I reported her to the state ethics board. I sold the house for asking price after about a month because our buyers' Redfin agent worked on a nice no-commission model that is actually relevant for the future of real estate.
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May 12, 2015 15:27
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High Lord Elbow posted:Most realtors are scum who actively conspire to rob both buyer and seller. When I sold my third home FSBO, I realized two things: Without a Realtor, how will you get their trademark useless 1-sentence description of your house and 2 out of focus photos of the front of the house from slightly different angles? edit: to be fair, most FSBOs are like that too, but at least they aren't paying several thousand dollars for the privilege.
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May 12, 2015 15:40
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I'm just lucky my aunt is my realtor and she's a super nice gal who truly has my back. If it weren't for her, this would be doubly painful. Also, expect some good contributions to this thread if I get this house. I'm already talking to electrical contractor to rewrite the whole house because jesus christ, whoever did this before had no idea what they were doing. Tied grounds and neutrals, too thin of gauge in 20A breakers, you name it. I even saw some k&t and the seller still had the balls to tell me the electrical was technically updated because the breaker box was new. 
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May 12, 2015 15:42
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:So I'm bidding on this house (that I really loving want) and the realtor is refusing to budge on the price when I cite a constant basement flooding issue. Her counter: buy a dehumidifier. Not gonna do much against two inches of water. I wouldn't buy a house with known flooding issues, unless I knew the specific problem and it was an easy fix. Has an inspector signed off on the house? I bet it wouldn't be too hard to find alot of mold. If you find mold and know there is a 100% chance of future mold... you probably don't want the house. EDIT: ??? You also have a realtor, who is your aunt? Then what's the problem? You trust your aunt to not let you get screwed so let her handle it. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 16:20 on May 12, 2015 |
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May 12, 2015 16:17
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:
Run.
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May 12, 2015 16:19
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~Coxy posted:LED bulbs may actually be worse for this than CFLs in practice, because an individual bulb might contain anywhere between 5 and 40 emitters wired in series. The lifespan you see labeled on the package for an LED isn't an MTBF - it's an L70, how long they take to dim below 70% output (although at 40C, which you aren't getting in any enclosed fixture or even many open fixtures). The MTBF for the diodes themselves is much higher. When you see an LED bulb actually fail, it's almost certainly the driver circuitry and not the LEDs that has failed.
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May 12, 2015 16:31
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:I wouldn't buy a house with known flooding issues, unless I knew the specific problem and it was an easy fix. Oh my aunt is handling it. I just feel bad for her. As for the flooding, it's an easy fix. The basement window that's near flush with the outside ground level is the culprit. Just need to fix the water flow. As for mold, there weren't any signs. I hired a really good home inspector (pricey too) and the occupancy permit is already good. I know what you mean, though.
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May 12, 2015 16:35
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:As for the flooding, it's an easy fix. The basement window that's near flush with the outside ground level is the culprit. Just need to fix the water flow. 
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May 12, 2015 17:19
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By easy I mean I'm looking to pay someone several thousand dollars to fix it all.
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May 12, 2015 17:54
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:By easy I mean I'm looking to pay someone several thousand dollars to fix it all. You know those car ads that say "just needs [cheap part] to run!" The reason we don't buy those cars is because if it really was [cheap part] they would have fixed it and raised the asking price by 50%. 
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May 12, 2015 18:18
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nm posted:You know those car ads that say "just needs [cheap part] to run!" Yea it's gonna be a few grand, for sure.
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May 12, 2015 19:16
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If it's routinely had inches of water sitting on the basement floor, the first part of the fix is to stop the water from coming in. But that's very unlikely to be the last part of the fix.
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May 12, 2015 19:44
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Anorexic Sea Turtle posted:By easy I mean I'm looking to pay someone several thousand dollars to fix it all. Yeah, and when they dig to the weeping tile to do a proper tie in with the window well and find it's nonexistant or completely clogged add a few thousand more.
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May 12, 2015 19:45
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Good thing I talked to y'all before I finalize the bid. I'm looking to get 10 grand knocked off the price, so this should cover the floods.
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May 12, 2015 21:05
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Costs my folks thousands of dollars to fix their basement water issues. First they had a swale put in to flow water away from the house, then they dug up the basement to put in weeping tiles around the entire basement and then they added a 2nd sump pump. After all that it was fixed.
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May 12, 2015 21:32
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Wasabi the J posted:LMBO at the mental image of eating under a loving sun.
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May 12, 2015 21:44
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My Lovely Horse posted:"People on yelp keep complaining my lights are too dim to read the menu, well I'll show them all!" There's a chinese place I went to recently like this. It was previously a fairly dim japanese restaurant, so they barely changed the decor but installed some sort of insane bulbs in all the previous sockets. So you have little decorative japanese lanters emitting work-light levels of lumens. I usually complain restaurants are too dim but this place is insanely well lit. I wish I could get lighting that good for my hobby room.
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May 12, 2015 21:50
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Baronjutter posted:I wish I could get lighting that good for my hobby room. Try one of these maybe, haha: Leperflesh posted:Here is a 40 Watt work light. I bet that thing is bright as gently caress. That's actually a pretty drat good price for a ruggedized, water-resistant outdoor work light, too.
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May 12, 2015 22:44
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SynthOrange posted:Crappy LED and Neighbour Tales.  Why the gently caress am I even still subscribed to this thread? If you autists want to argue about dumb poo poo like this, go stare at the OP and realize this never was the thread for it. Yeah yeah yeah I might be backseat modding here, go ahead and report me for it, this is retarded and so was the 400 pound concrete block cross-examination. Here. Here is some crappy construction. I expect this thread to remain on-topic for about 0.5 posts following this one, at which point I will unsubscribe and you fuckers can argue about LEDs and bad neighbors and loving concrete blocks that might weigh a certain amount to your hearts content without me being negative about it. Balloon framed house with the studs at different centers on opposite sides of a room? Gotta hang joists across it? Owner isn't there to watch? gently caress it man, slap the ledger up and hang the joists on it, who gives a rats rear end if they actually attach to the studs or not. Also, 2x8 joists with one set of crossbracing are totally enough to span 15 feet, that floor won't be bouncy at all.  Allow roof to fail, wait 15 years, when the plaster falls off the inside of the wall hang 1/4" sheetrock directly over the lath and pretend you didn't see it. Have the roof done (slap another layer over the last five or six, who will notice) then allow it to fail again ten years down the road. Sell house to me. This is what the cornerpost in a weight bearing wall looked like. What cornerpost? The one on the ground in a pile, naturally. 
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May 12, 2015 22:57
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Ken, your house is so bad everywhere! I never saw how you came to purchase this house. Did you get it at a "knock-down" price?
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May 13, 2015 01:17
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Not crappy construction, but this seems to be the most knowledgeable place about code issues, so I have a question. I'm in charge of getting some additional lighting installed in the office at my job. The lights we want are LED strip lights that hang about 3" below the ceiling tile. One of them will be located about 12" from a fire sprinkler head. I mentioned this concern to an electrician who is bidding on the project and he basically shrugged it off. Is it the electrician's responsibility to make sure that his install does not violate any other building codes, or does his responsibility end at installing up to electrical code? If it is the latter, what steps do I need to take prior to accepting the bid and getting the work done to make sure the finished product won't violate fire code?
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May 13, 2015 02:42
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SkunkDuster posted:Not crappy construction, but this seems to be the most knowledgeable place about code issues, so I have a question. It is his job to make sure the electrical and fire don't interfere, but sprinkler heads are basically a "do not contact this" kind of thing. The Fire Marshall usually also has to sign off the permit, and the electrical inspector will certainly know him. Electrical inspectors are also very frequently fire inspectors, so they'll know if something wiggy's going on, and you, as the tenant rep are within your (seen as assholish) right to ask the inspector if a particular part of the install is kosher. The sprinklers are there to prevent the fire from spreading JUST long enough to get the people out. If it sprays on the lights and shorts them out, then that's cool. There are probably emergency lights that will provide sufficient illumination. If not, and it ends up that there are sprinkler lines run through your fixtures, absolutely post them in this thread.
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May 13, 2015 06:40
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:The Fire Marshall Marshal babyeatingpsychopath posted:The sprinklers are there to prevent the fire from spreading JUST long enough to get the people out. Residential sprinkler design criteria is to prevent flashover for 30 minutes. That has the after-effect of keeping fire from spreading somewhat, but it's an important distinction. Commercial sprinklers are a completely different animal, and are designed to actually extinguish small fires on their own (how small depends on the occupancy/hazard type) and larger fires when supplied from the FDC.
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May 13, 2015 16:36
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SkunkDuster posted:Not crappy construction, but this seems to be the most knowledgeable place about code issues, so I have a question. If the light is a continuous obstruction, it'll need to be 6 inches further away to meet NFPA13 obstruction requirements. Here's a link to the 2002 code, which has the same requirement as the current code. The section is 8.6.5.2.1.
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May 14, 2015 06:14
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kastein posted:
Are those asbestos shingles on the outside of the house in the last picture?
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May 15, 2015 16:48
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You bet! gently caress everyone pre-80s for thinking that poo poo was a great idea.
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May 16, 2015 02:27
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The asbestos shingles aren't going to leap off the wall and rape and murder your family.
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May 16, 2015 03:14
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Sylink posted:The asbestos shingles aren't going to leap off the wall and rape and murder your family. ... any faster than the rest of his house is trying to kill him.
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May 16, 2015 03:56
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Yeah, those shingles are the least dangerous form of asbestos. In fact my inspector was like "whatever dude" and said he would be glad to cut me a permit for doing the removal myself when it comes time to completely strip the house of them and do all new siding. It is legal to just go over them but something doesn't seem right about putting a third layer of siding on the place (there is somewhat rotten wood siding under them) and I really hate the idea of running screws or nails through asbestos tiling.
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May 16, 2015 16:15
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Yeah, those are barely friable so unless you're being a complete moron they can be removed safely after being wet down with a hose, double bagged and sent to the dump.
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May 16, 2015 16:22
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My parents just had their insurance cancelled on one of their properties over those drat shingles.
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May 16, 2015 22:56
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Safety Dance posted:... any faster than the rest of his house is trying to kill him. Yah, I'm just triggering because people keep posting solid asbestos and sky-is-falling stuff like its on the same level as gamma rays and even looking at it will kill you.
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May 17, 2015 04:06
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