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Slavvy posted:Maybe I don't understand how the stuff works but can't you just fill it up and seal everything then clear out the vent port afterward with a cable or something? Yes, but I don't know exactly what shape the line from that port is, or how far it goes. Shoving twine in there it stops at some point so I think it's not just going straight into the main tank cavity, plus shining a torch down the hole I can't see any light from the fill port. e: basically I'm worried that I might plug the port part of the way and end up with it blocked. Seashell Salesman fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Jun 3, 2015 |
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Jun 3, 2015 04:27
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The caswell instructions say to poke it clean with some small wire after the sealer is partially dry, I think. The port is of such a complex shape you can't get a wire through it take it? Maybe use compressed air or something?
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Jun 3, 2015 04:39
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The caswell instructions say to poke it clean with some small wire after the sealer is partially dry, I think. The port is of such a complex shape you can't get a wire through it take it? Maybe use compressed air or something? What about something like piano wire? It bends pretty well but is still strong enough it should be able to poke through partially dried sealant.
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Jun 3, 2015 14:12
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A friend of mine suggested, last week, that I order some kind of endoscopy camera online, so I could see inside the tank. Wish I had done that now. Wire or compressed air should work, I think I will do some combination of both.
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Jun 3, 2015 17:04
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Seashell Salesman posted:A friend of mine suggested, last week, that I order some kind of endoscopy camera online, so I could see inside the tank. Wish I had done that now. One of the mechanics I visited used something like that to get a look in my engine without stripping too much down. Pretty cool little tool.
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Jun 3, 2015 17:33
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Chichevache posted:One of the mechanics I visited used something like that to get a look in my engine without stripping too much down. Pretty cool little tool. They're pretty cheap now too - I've seen video-equipped ones going for £70 on sale at Maplins, was seriously tempted even though I've literally no use for it at all.
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Jun 3, 2015 17:45
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goddamnedtwisto posted:They're pretty cheap now too - I've seen video-equipped ones going for £70 on sale at Maplins, was seriously tempted even though I've literally no use for it at all. There are USB ones on ebay for less than $20. I wish I had more holes to probe.
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Jun 3, 2015 18:32
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Boys who love boys
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Chichevache posted:One of the mechanics I visited used something like that to get a look in my engine without stripping too much down. Pretty cool little tool. I think I need one to check wiring and hose clearances under my frame while it's all buttoned up. There is a hot mess of doodads on the 08 Uly that weren't on the 06.
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Jun 3, 2015 18:54
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clutchpuck posted:I think I need one to check wiring and hose clearances under my frame while it's all buttoned up. There is a hot mess of doodads on the 08 Uly that weren't on the 06. Hobo Freight has them for about $70 with their regular 20% off coupon. They are handy. I did a little laparoscopic surgery on my fuel tank to get a stopper ring out. if you have a friend who bought it instead though, its even better =P
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Jun 3, 2015 19:41
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goddamnedtwisto posted:They're pretty cheap now too - I've seen video-equipped ones going for £70 on sale at Maplins, was seriously tempted even though I've literally no use for it at all. Lidl and Aldi have them regularly for about 70€/50 quid
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Jun 4, 2015 00:19
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Ok so I just couldn't bring myself to pour any epoxy into the tank until I figured out where the gently caress that vent port led. I grabbed some insulated copper wire, lubed it up with Vaseline, and shoved it down the vent port... ...until I finally realized where it was going.  So, after all that there was never any risk to my vent port (aside from the risk that some maniac might shove a piece of wire down it too vigorously and break it!).
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Jun 4, 2015 03:54
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Yeah cause that isn't a vent, it's a drain to stop water pooling around the fuel cap.
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Jun 4, 2015 04:13
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Where is the vent anyway? The one that makes cat meow noises. Also does fuel just drain out to the ground if you spill a little around the edges while filling up?
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Jun 4, 2015 12:13
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Seashell Salesman posted:...until I finally realized where it was going. THAT's where that loving tube goes? Huh. New Thing learned for today; time to coast.
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Jun 4, 2015 16:52
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revmoo posted:Where is the vent anyway? The one that makes cat meow noises. Also does fuel just drain out to the ground if you spill a little around the edges while filling up? Yeah it just comes out at the bottom, the rubber tube that fits on that spout usually sticks out around the swing arm pivot region. No idea where the vent is, never owned a ninja 250. Looking at the picture I would guess that the filler cap itself is ventilated or there is a pipe underneath that feeds into the air intake.
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Jun 4, 2015 20:03
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Slavvy posted:Yeah it just comes out at the bottom, the rubber tube that fits on that spout usually sticks out around the swing arm pivot region. No idea where the vent is, never owned a ninja 250. Looking at the picture I would guess that the filler cap itself is ventilated or there is a pipe underneath that feeds into the air intake. I wondered what that goddamn tube was. Now I feel dumb.
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Jun 5, 2015 01:38
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Often there's two or three; one for the fuel cap drain, one for the carburettor bowl drains (if applicable) and one as an airbox moisture drain (usually has a one-way valve or similar on the end). Bikes are covered in small farkles and gadgety things that don't get much attention/notice because they aren't involved in making it go, stop or turn.
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Jun 5, 2015 01:48
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I replaced my chain, and got a tiny crack in the edge of rivet when I was installing the masterlink. The link isn't tight, and I measured the width. Is this an issue?
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Jun 5, 2015 01:55
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Id order a new master link but I'd still ride it until I got a replacement, checking it for expansion or change before each ride. It's probably ok if it's just a shallow crack but master links are cheap. If it goes any deeper than 50% of the way through the visible part of the rivet, just replace it.
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Jun 5, 2015 05:28
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Starting to get my bike back together, finally. Engine is complete, just need to look over the carbs and replace them. Put a cheap, used, dented 4-1 system on it and put studs in place of the exhaust bolts. Do I need to loctite the studs or will they hold as well as a bolt once the nut is tight? It really is a cheap system, complete pot metal. The plates bend easily when you tighten the nuts. Oh well, I'll be happy enough to have a working bike again! e: The engine has been sitting for a really long time. I did coat the cylinders with oil before I put the head on, but should I squirt some oil in before starting it? Figuring it doesn't hurt to help lube it and it will help compression as well. Ola fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jun 5, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 19:49
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Ola posted:Starting to get my bike back together, finally. Engine is complete, just need to look over the carbs and replace them. Put a cheap, used, dented 4-1 system on it and put studs in place of the exhaust bolts. Do I need to loctite the studs or will they hold as well as a bolt once the nut is tight? If you tighten the studs in the holes before putting the manifold and nuts on, they'll be fine. I'd suggest using copper grease on the nuts, otherwise the next time you take the system apart the studs will just come out with the nuts stuck in place. I'd squirt some oil in the bores, then crank it a few times with the ignition leads disconnected just to make sure everything is kosher.
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Jun 5, 2015 20:32
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In general is there anything I should be putting on bolts I take off my bike before I put them back on? Is it just a case by case thing for which bolts need anything, and what they need?
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Jun 5, 2015 21:02
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Seashell Salesman posted:In general is there anything I should be putting on bolts I take off my bike before I put them back on? Is it just a case by case thing for which bolts need anything, and what they need? It's a case by case thing, unless you own a single, in which case you blue loctite everything.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:26
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Z3n posted:It's a case by case thing, unless you own a single, in which case you blue loctite everything. or a Ducati.  
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Jun 5, 2015 21:34
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BlackMK4 posted:or a Ducati. Dry clutch ain't the only thing rattlin'.
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Jun 5, 2015 21:36
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Slavvy posted:If you tighten the studs in the holes before putting the manifold and nuts on, they'll be fine. Thanks. My studs aren't quite long enough, so I have had to seat them quite shallow. Will definitely put grease on, but the studs also have a sunk hex head at the end so you can hold it still while loosening the nut.
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Jun 5, 2015 22:59
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Ola posted:Thanks. My studs aren't quite long enough, so I have had to seat them quite shallow. Will definitely put grease on, but the studs also have a sunk hex head at the end so you can hold it still while loosening the nut. That's a plus, most have an e-torx head that obligingly shears off at the slightest hint of a spanner. I wonder if they're actually really long grub screws? Do they have a shankin the middle that has no thread?
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Jun 6, 2015 00:08
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Slavvy posted:That's a plus, most have an e-torx head that obligingly shears off at the slightest hint of a spanner. I wonder if they're actually really long grub screws? Do they have a shankin the middle that has no thread? No, although that's what I was looking for frist. It's these: http://m.ebay.com/itm/331119403958 Very high quality material, but odd (literally) that's there's seven in the package. Thankfully one of my eight holes was beyond salvage so that's exactly what I needed.
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Jun 6, 2015 08:05
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Two electrical questions, both in the "hold my beer" category. 1. My battery is long dead at 8.5 volts so it probably won't crank the bike. I do however have access to a (cheap Chinese) portable jump starter. Can I hook it up to the battery leads without the battery present and expect the bike to crank as normal? Or should I have the battery there anyway? Just need to start it, just want to see if it spins and builds oil pressure ok before I spend more money on it. 2. Don't have access to a proper compressor anymore, just my tiny 12 volt one. I also have a simple battery charger, just a plug and two leads. Can I hook the charger up to the compressor and expect useful results? Wish it could take 230v as well, I really don't have room or use for a regular massive one.
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Jun 6, 2015 17:17
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While sitting in traffic on my Ninjette, I noticed my headlight noticeably dims when one of my turn signals comes on. With each blink. That's... probably not normal, is it. 
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Jun 6, 2015 18:16
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Fifty Three posted:While sitting in traffic on my Ninjette, I noticed my headlight noticeably dims when one of my turn signals comes on. With each blink. Battery getting old.
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Jun 6, 2015 18:21
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I'm putting a new cam chain and tensioner in a 1997 Suzuki Savage 650 that was gifted to me from a storage unit. I have a new tensioner, and this or this look like the right cam chain. But when I look to buy a new gasket, there seem to be multiple models, and I don't know which is correct. This seems to list four different complete gasket sets and four different clutch cover gaskets: http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d32f52f8700232d0b3d7d4/gasket-set While this lists only one of each: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1997-suzuki-savage-650-ls650p/o/m147792#sch244393 How do I figure out which gasket is correct?
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Jun 6, 2015 19:06
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RadioPassive posted:
Looks like there used to be differences but there's now only one set. Note the line struck over the old part number and the new part numbers matching up. Any of the four will be the same set. Doesn't hurt to send them an email to be sure of course.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:03
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Ola posted:Can I hook it up to the battery leads without the battery present and expect the bike to crank as normal? quote:Can I hook the charger up to the compressor and expect useful results?
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Jun 6, 2015 20:08
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Alright. I'll try it with the bad battery hooked up. No EFI to worry about, but the ignition module could theoretically get fried. The Chinese start booster actually had a compressor in it as well! So no need to hotwire my own 12v compressor.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:26
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Ola posted:Battery getting old.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:48
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Depends on the brand, some are shittier than others.
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Jun 6, 2015 20:50
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250s have pretty wimpy batteries, but as I recall mine dimmed slightly when at idle with the turn signals coming on. Check the battery with a multimeter, it's probably fine, especially if it's cranking over normally. At idle most bikes draw power from the battery cause their charging systems only really work over 4k or so.
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Jun 6, 2015 21:19
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Fifty Three posted:It's about a year and a half old. I've only killed it once, from letting the bike sit for a few weeks in the winter. Is that all it takes to wreck a battery? I read it as if it had recently started dimming on each blink, but if you've only just noticed it might have been like that all the time. I have a 14 Ah battery, it does not dim when I blink unless the battery is in trouble.
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Jun 6, 2015 21:35
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Replaced the rear brake light. Looks like both filaments are on, and tapping the brakes doesn't do jack poo poo. Did I gently caress it up?
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Jun 6, 2015 22:32
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