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Hey thread, brand new rider here. I have a couple of questions about my bike, a 1989 Honda CB-1 After I start it and kick it down to first gear, the bike sort of tries to lurch forward a bit. This is with the clutch level fully depressed. Not enough to really move me (even without brakes applied) but I was wondering if the clutch cable needs to be adjusted, like it seems like it might not be fully separated from the engine or something. Does it need to be adjusted? When I put the bike in steering lock mode and remove the key, the rear light comes on. No other lights are on though. Is this an electrical issue that can be remedied easily? I don't want to run the battery down just because I have the steering lock on
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Jun 15, 2015 06:04
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A MIRACLE posted:After I start it and kick it down to first gear, the bike sort of tries to lurch forward a bit. This is with the clutch level fully depressed. Not enough to really move me (even without brakes applied) but I was wondering if the clutch cable needs to be adjusted, like it seems like it might not be fully separated from the engine or something. Does it need to be adjusted? This is normal. When you release the clutch, a spring presses the clutch plates together. When you pull the clutch, it simply relieves that spring pressure but doesn't actually pull the plates back apart. The plates stick together a little bit, and the lurching is from a little bit of friction/sticktion as the plates unstick and separate slightly. A MIRACLE posted:When I put the bike in steering lock mode and remove the key, the rear light comes on. No other lights are on though. Is this an electrical issue that can be remedied easily? I don't want to run the battery down just because I have the steering lock on I'm not sure here but my bike has four key positions, On, Off, Lock, and Park. Park leaves the lights on. I often accidentally overshoot Lock and turn the key all the way to Park when I'm leaving the bike. Maybe that's what's going on?
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Jun 15, 2015 06:13
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Okay, thanks. The thing is pretty worn down so its a little hard to read haha
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Jun 15, 2015 06:19
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Where do you find star washers? Not ENERGY STAR WASHERS (thanks, Lowes) but more like https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11510924 Been to Lowes, Home Depot, Autozone, O'Reilly, and in desperation a Radioshack. No luck. I want some today, not in a week.
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Jun 15, 2015 17:03
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Is there an Ace hardware near you? Mine has those.
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Jun 15, 2015 17:08
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There's a Fastenal near me, they're pretty great. Look for dedicated fastener supply stores?
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Jun 15, 2015 17:32
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Do these fork seals need replaced? This is my first biek and I've only had it a few years, so if it's painfully obvious to you, yes I'm asking seriously.
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Jun 15, 2015 21:20
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They aren't leaking, leave them alone. That's just the dust seal, the fork seal sits under that.
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Jun 15, 2015 21:30
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But it looks like something bad is happening under there. The steel circlip might be rusting, if it gets too bad it will be impossible to get out and/or cause damage to the lowers when the seals do need replacement.
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Jun 15, 2015 21:35
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That's a relief, thanks! Yeah, I've been checking closely for leaks (spots of oil on the fork after it goes down and comes back up). Didn't realize those were just the dust seals. Just found this helpful image to help me understand wtf is going on in there:  e: Ola posted:But it looks like something bad is happening under there. The steel circlip might be rusting, if it gets too bad it will be impossible to get out and/or cause damage to the lowers when the seals do need replacement.  What makes you say that, the spots of rust around the bottom of the dust seal?
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Jun 15, 2015 21:35
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alnilam posted:That's a relief, thanks! Yeah, I've been checking closely for leaks (spots of oil on the fork after it goes down and comes back up). Didn't realize those were just the dust seals. Here is a better picture for you to see - this is from my Duc.  Dust Seal Fork Seal Retaining Clip Fork Seal Fork Seal Washer Fork Slider Bushing Fork Tube Bushing
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Jun 15, 2015 22:05
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M42 posted:Is there an Ace hardware near you? Mine has those. Hell yes there is and hell yes they do. Dude knew right where they were and didn't think I was talking about a washing machine.
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Jun 16, 2015 16:12
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clutchpuck posted:Hell yes there is and hell yes they do. Dude knew right where they were and didn't think I was talking about a washing machine. Ace really is the place with the helpful hardware
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Jun 16, 2015 18:17
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Marv Hushman posted:Ace really is the place with the helpful hardware All this time I thought it was "ace is the place where the helpful hardware goes" and it never made sense.
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Jun 16, 2015 18:22
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hot sauce posted:All this time I thought it was "ace is the place where the helpful hardware goes" and it never made sense. You and me both. For years, I've been wondering what the hell they're singing. Not the result you want with a jingle, really.
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Jun 16, 2015 18:36
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So I have a silly question. I have a topcase, with a rack. (Givi 1121FZ Top Case Support Brackets Honda CB500X 2013-2015 AND Givi B37 Tech Monolock Top Case) I want to get side cases, but I have zero idea how they'd fit with the top case as well. Givi doesn't seem to have any real documentation that I can find (which could be my google-fu-fail) but i need to figure out if I can put the Givi V35 cases or Givi Trekker Outback on at the same time (or even something cheaper that doesn't look like poo poo) I see pictures of a top case and side case, but I can't tell what is compatible with what. If anyone has any ideas of what works and what doesnt, that'd be helpful
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Jun 16, 2015 18:48
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Marv Hushman posted:Not the result you want with a jingle, really. Well, you're discussing it. So, net win.
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Jun 16, 2015 18:54
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BlackMK4 posted:They aren't leaking, leave them alone. That's just the dust seal, the fork seal sits under that. unless there's no oil left to leak out Ola posted:But it looks like something bad is happening under there. The steel circlip might be rusting, if it gets too bad it will be impossible to get out and/or cause damage to the lowers when the seals do need replacement. Buy a couple new ones and a couple new dust caps to start. Plan on replacing those and check the seals out while you're in there.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:49
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:unless there's no oil left to leak out If I'm not replacing the seals, how easy is this? Are we talking "pop off the dust seal and circlip, pop the new ones back in, bada bing bada boom," or does this involve taking the fork apart? Again this is my first biek so I'm learning everything for the first time, but I hope to slowly accumulate all of the biek maintenance knowledges.
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Jun 16, 2015 19:55
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It's very simple. Pry out the old dust seal with a screwdriver (from the outside, NOT from the stanchion side or you'll scratch the chrome), then flick out the circlip using a pick or small screwdriver or similar. You don't need to take the fork apart, you just need to take it off the bike, and just avoid scratching the stanchion.
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Jun 16, 2015 20:01
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Slavvy posted:It's very simple. Pry out the old dust seal with a screwdriver (from the outside, NOT from the stanchion side or you'll scratch the chrome), then flick out the circlip using a pick or small screwdriver or similar. You don't need to take the fork apart, you just need to take it off the bike, and just avoid scratching the stanchion. So to check, the parts I'm looking for are, as per bike bandit,  92093: SEAL,FORK OUTER TUBE <-- this is what y'all are calling the "dust seal"? 92033: CIRCLIP And the item that you're calling the actual fork seal, which I DON"T want to remove (unless it looks like poo poo), is 92049: SEAL-OIL,FORK OUTER T Oh damnit, when you say "take it off the bike" do you mean remove the whole fork from the triple tree? That sounds a little more involved, and like I'll have to borrow a front-stand. e: if it's pertinent, it's a 2007 kawasaki vulcan 500 alnilam fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 16, 2015 |
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Jun 16, 2015 20:29
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Center stand (or stacked 4x4s) and a cinder block or two near the back, along with a ratchet strap, works wonders for when you're poor and a redneck.
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Jun 16, 2015 20:35
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alnilam posted:So to check, the parts I'm looking for are, as per bike bandit, Yes for the 92093. You're not going to remove the fork seal by accident, they don't come out easily or without taking the fork further apart.  (You unbolt 44029, dump the contents of the fork out, ,unbolt44041 with an impact gun, remove 92033, and basically slide hammer the loving fork apart) BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jun 16, 2015 |
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Jun 16, 2015 20:38
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How do I take the seat off of my CM400A? I'm terminally incompetent and underconfident so I'll probably have a lot of dumb questions like these for a while. I want to get to the air filter to blast it out. After that, I can't wait to figure out how to oil change. Oh, and chain lube!
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Jun 16, 2015 20:46
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nitrogen posted:So I have a silly question. I still don't quite understand how the Givi system works. But you'll need to add some side case racks, there are three to choose from here, depending on which cases you want to use: http://www.sporttour.com/products/c505-Honda-CB-500-X-Motorcycle-Accessories/ They are all compatible with the top case rack. I don't know if any/all those cases allow you to use the same key across all cases, but it'll no doubt be asked and answered on some googl-able forum.
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Jun 16, 2015 20:58
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N is for Nipples posted:How do I take the seat off of my CM400A? There should be a latch on both sides of the seat near the back, should be right behind the upper shock mounts. They look sort of like the latch on the hood of a car. Pull both latches back, that should release the back end of the seat. Then pull back and up on the seat, there is a lip on the front that slides in to lock the front of the seat down.
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Jun 16, 2015 23:07
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N is for Nipples posted:How do I take the seat off of my CM400A? The chain is the easiest part - I just did this last weekend and it doesn't take much. Get yourself a Grunge Brush and some kerosene, or alternately, some Simple Green Motosports Degreaser (I am super pleased with how well it works) and some good quality chain lube. It's practically therapeutic.
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Jun 17, 2015 00:18
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When you get "bad gas" and it fouls up your carb and you have to take it apart and clean the jets etc, what happens in that same situation for a FI bike? Do you just clean the injectors? Is that any easier/harder? Do FI bikes deal with bad gas better? What exactly is "bad" about bad gas? In places like Peru, for example.
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Jun 17, 2015 04:29
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Depends what you mean by bad. If it's bad as in old gas which is breaking down and turning into jello as ethanol gas does, FI pumps usually just chew through it without issues. I think injectors can get clogged by really old non-ethanol gas but I've hardly ever seen it. If there's some kind of debris, it could do different things. Could damage the pump, or get pushed right through the pump and caught in the filter and clog the filter and cause low fuel pressure at the injectors. If it gets past the filter it can clog the injectors, I've only seen that once. If there's something in the gas that isn't gas, like water, you just gotta get the non-gas out of there because water won't combust obviously.
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Jun 17, 2015 04:44
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Some fucker dropped my bike during the night. There's no scratch so I believe he sat on it and layed it gently on its side. The bike was laying on it's left side and won't start. I get the starter going but that's about it. The stand kick switch is fine, and I'm late for work. It's a dr650. What should I check? 
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Jun 18, 2015 13:04
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Grimarest posted:Some fucker dropped my bike during the night. There's no scratch so I believe he sat on it and layed it gently on its side. It's probably flooded, just let it stand upright for a minute. Maybe pull the spark plug and crank it over one time. I have no idea if the DR650 has a tilt sensor.
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Jun 18, 2015 13:58
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I let it sit upright for about 30 mins. No luck and left for work by bus. I'll try again when I get back. Thanks!
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Jun 18, 2015 14:43
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Grimarest posted:
Check that he didn't gently caress with the ignition. Also, that the killswitch is in the run position...sorry if that sounds like stupid advice, but it's easy to miss.
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Jun 18, 2015 15:49
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Well I found a lot of fuel in my airbox, my carburetor flooded and there's probably gas in the oil. Ignition is fine I got sparks from both plugs. I suspect it's the same fucker who moved my bike earlier last week to park his van. Since then I bought a disk lock and he probably panicked when he couldn't move it and dropped it. Grimarest fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Jun 19, 2015 |
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Jun 19, 2015 00:27
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Update on my valve problems from several pages ago: I found a mechanic to come and look at my bike and help me figure out what's wrong and how to fix it etc. We disassembled the engine top end and found that indeed one of the rocker arms had a damaged 'ear' on the underside. The mechanic said that that the cam shaft and other rocker arms seem fine, but he said we should polish the cam shafts anyway to be sure. I'll have to order a replacement rocker arm, and then I can get the same guy to come out and direct me as I try to find the bit of material that broke off the rocker arm in the engine and reassemble everything. I think next time I mess around in the engine I'll get this same guy to come and keep me from breaking things. Cost was very reasonable, and he had a million entertaining old man stories about teaching new mechanics in a Marine motor pool and stuff. Thanks for all the assistance everybody
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Jun 19, 2015 19:14
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That is super cool. I need that! I want to learn all this stuff but I don't want to gently caress up my daily rider/only bike. Maybe next year I'll get a new daily and keep the Ninjer for a work-on bike.
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Jun 19, 2015 19:21
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What are some comfier-than-stock 125mm grips? I used to use ourys, but it turns out they're too long for the SV (127mm vs the 125 I need).
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Jun 20, 2015 00:40
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I have a sv problem as well! I'm trying to change my brake pads and the front went fine but I can't get anywhere on the rear since the brake pad pin is stuck. No amount of penetrating oil seems to help and I'm worried I'm going to strip the screw completely and not have a way to get it out. I'm not sure what else to try.
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Jun 20, 2015 00:53
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M42 posted:What are some comfier-than-stock 125mm grips? I used to use ourys, but it turns out they're too long for the SV (127mm vs the 125 I need). Just cut the last 2mm off. Might not even need to do that, 2mm is like nothing at all. brotastrophe posted:I have a sv problem as well! I'm trying to change my brake pads and the front went fine but I can't get anywhere on the rear since the brake pad pin is stuck. No amount of penetrating oil seems to help and I'm worried I'm going to strip the screw completely and not have a way to get it out. I'm not sure what else to try. Do you have a hand impact driver? Very useful in situations like this. Worst case you order another rear caliper off ebay for 25 bucks.
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Jun 20, 2015 01:10
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Z3n posted:Just cut the last 2mm off. Might not even need to do that, 2mm is like nothing at all. Thought about it, seemed like a visually large amount though. Gets ride of the little notch that grips the far end of the throttle tube, too.
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Jun 20, 2015 01:15
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