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Weirdo posted:What happened to Rackham? I've gathered they flared out quickly, but is there more to it than that? IIRC they weren't doing so great so they switched over to pre-painted models, which only made them go bankrupt that much quicker.
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Jul 7, 2015 19:23
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Weirdo posted:Speaking of, does anyone here recommend his painting book? I'm considering picking it up at Gencon but just wanted to hear from anyone who has it now. I have it, I like it, loads of step by step examples of many different kinds of models (all Infinity of course).
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Jul 7, 2015 19:40
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Weirdo posted:Speaking of, does anyone here recommend his painting book? I'm considering picking it up at Gencon but just wanted to hear from anyone who has it now. I felt like it was a little disappointing because it doesn't go into a whole lot of detail on technique. It's essentially an elongated version of a lot of the painting guides you'll find with miniature wargames out there that amount to just showing a photo of each layer of paint that's applied with basically no writing or commentary beyond "next I applied a lighter layer of brown." He basically gives a couple pages on basic stuff like washing, drybrushing, and general shading stuff and the rest of it is more or less a gallery rather than something that'll improve your fundamentals. Also, yeah, as someone who only uses regular brushes there was an unfortunate amount of "mask it off and hit it with an airbrush to get this nice gradient" on a lot of the models. It's certainly not a bad book, but I think I just personally grabbed it sight unseen and assumed it would be more text heavy or lecture-like and less paint by numbers than it was, which is my own fault.
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Jul 7, 2015 19:52
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ijyt posted:Man, I remember people laughing at GW's display paintjobs not being amazing, but I think there's a good idea to that. I can't stop comparing my lovely Infinity to the amazing box art. I trtied to push through with the first mini but it's gone so wrong that I'm just going to strip and build again. It's so disheartening. I can appreciate it because it's something that new painters can aspire to fairly quickly. It still looks all right, and they won't feel bad about putting something of similar quality on the table. I'd love to see them put out more stuff on advanced techniques rather than just edge highlights and drybrushing, but the internet does kind of fill that niche now for people ready to jump to the next level.
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Jul 7, 2015 19:56
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Yup. I agree, and I'm probably being more dramatic than I should be. Anyway, all stripped and am I right to assume the super glue bonds have been weakened? Some things with smaller contact points fell off, but larger pieces held strong. The active ingredient I used to strip was Polyacrylic Acid.
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Jul 7, 2015 20:40
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Weirdo posted:Speaking of, does anyone here recommend his painting book? I'm considering picking it up at Gencon but just wanted to hear from anyone who has it now. If you want an idea of what the content is like, see here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.756162454444664.1073742021.436491416411771 That's his Operation Icestorm tutorial and the guides in the book are fairly similar. There's definitely an assumption that you already know and can apply the basics - and that you have an airbrush handy. I still found it helpful, especially since I was coming back from a long break, but it definitely doesn't contain anything groundbreaking (and he provides a lot of tutorial material for free anyway).
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Jul 7, 2015 20:55
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Good stuff, I might hold off on the purchase for now, or maybe just look around at basic airbrush tutorials.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:01
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ijyt posted:Man, I remember people laughing at GW's display paintjobs not being amazing, but I think there's a good idea to that. I can't stop comparing my lovely Infinity to the amazing box art. I trtied to push through with the first mini but it's gone so wrong that I'm just going to strip and build again. It's so disheartening. Dont. Leave it finished, move on to the next one. If you still hate it after you've done all of them then strip and repaint.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:05
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serious gaylord posted:Dont. Leave it finished, move on to the next one. If you still hate it after you've done all of them then strip and repaint. Quoted for truth. If you get yourself stuck in that "paint, strip, repaint" loop, it will be so hard get out. Take it from someone who has been there - I've done everything at least twice, and some things are waiting for their third go around... It's miserable.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:18
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serious gaylord posted:Dont. Leave it finished, move on to the next one. If you still hate it after you've done all of them then strip and repaint. As much as I hate to admit it, it's true. At least you'll have a playable force with a mediocre paintjob instead of an army in gleaming thrice-stripped pewter.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:25
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serious gaylord posted:Dont. Leave it finished, move on to the next one. If you still hate it after you've done all of them then strip and repaint. Don't need to finish the straps to see the armour is a mess, if I didn't enjoy painting one miniature in white I won't enjoy the other 11. Anyway, the paint scheme was a friends idea so I wasn't really all that into it. e: Like I appreciate the sentiment but it sounds like a waste of my time.
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Jul 7, 2015 21:39
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Has anyone used Vallejo inks over silver to make coloured metallics? I'm thinking of trying it out as a non-airbrush-alternative to the Forgeworld Alpha Legion scheme.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:00
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w00tmonger posted:I've been doing my zenithal black to grey to white, but would it work just doing grey to white? I have some flying models and am worried that they're going to look a bit crap from the bottom given how vibrant I want to paint them I did that for my Oath this month. Having a lighter base tone is usually better for a lighter color scheme; you can still get pretty good contrast with a grey shadow tone as opposed to black. e: holy eye candy page 59
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Jul 7, 2015 22:08
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Has anyone used Vallejo inks over silver to make coloured metallics? I'm thinking of trying it out as a non-airbrush-alternative to the Forgeworld Alpha Legion scheme. Grab Vallejo Moral Air Steel (71.065). It's very strongly metallic and has very fine pigment, so if you want to make something like green/blue/purple metallics it works awesome.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:22
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ijyt posted:Man, I just don't understand how you manage blends like that without an airbrush, stellar as always. Thanks! It's actually become a lot more difficult. For whatever reason, the latest batches of paints that I've picked up have been very difficult to work with and leads to more paint involved in the blending. It's starting to become frustrating and sometimes leads to really thick/lovely blends as happened on one or two of my recent bikes. 
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Jul 7, 2015 22:38
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Sydney Bottocks posted:More details, please! Right now I mainly rely on the Army Painter inks for washes, but I'm always interested in potentially adding new weapons to my painting arsenal. The one I've used the most is transparent shading grey. It goes on very very shiny and it dries differently than a lot of miniatures paints, basically it will dry to the point where you cant move it very quickly but it will remain slightly tacky where you could, for instance, leave a fingerprint in it. You can usually find them for somewhere in the 5-6 dollar range for huge bottles, but just like the old GW ink or washes made with Future you need to use matte varnish on top of it to make it look good.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:44
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Pierzak posted:Grab Vallejo Moral Air Steel (71.065). It's very strongly metallic and has very fine pigment, so if you want to make something like green/blue/purple metallics it works awesome. To be honest I'm not sure I want a super bright finish. I also don't want to buy more than I have to, my pot of Runefang Steel is still in good condition. EDIT: also I said NON airbrush 
Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jul 7, 2015 |
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Jul 7, 2015 22:53
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:To be honest I'm not sure I want a super bright finish. I also don't want to buy more than I have to, my pot of Runefang Steel is still in good condition. It's not super bright, the point of bright metallic is so you have the shine when it inevitably gets dulled down by the paint you mix with it. EDIT: and it goes well brushed on
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Jul 7, 2015 23:00
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Pierzak posted:It's not super bright, the point of bright metallic is so you have the shine when it inevitably gets dulled down by the paint you mix with it. Oh, I was thinking of using the inks as glazes rather than mixing them directly with the silver.
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Jul 7, 2015 23:12
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I brushed on the Vallejo Model Air Metallic silver and brass and put some colored ink mixed with iridescent medium on the war jacks here (silver/green on left, brass/red on right. The dude in the middle is just the Model air Metallic Brass I think). It looks like kind of unearthly colored shiny metal - better in person than in the pic. I used 3 or 4 layers of ink over the top but if you wanted a lighter hint of color you could easily do fewer.
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Jul 7, 2015 23:30
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Oh, I was thinking of using the inks as glazes rather than mixing them directly with the silver. Not inks. Paint. I made pretty blue metal using Steel + Imperial Blue + Turquoise.
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Jul 7, 2015 23:31
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head58 posted:I brushed on the Vallejo Model Air Metallic silver and brass and put some colored ink mixed with iridescent medium on the war jacks here (silver/green on left, brass/red on right. The dude in the middle is just the Model air Metallic Brass I think). It looks like kind of unearthly colored shiny metal - better in person than in the pic. I used 3 or 4 layers of ink over the top but if you wanted a lighter hint of color you could easily do fewer. That's called a candy coat - silver underlayer with transparent shade on top. I think it was from blinging out cars but I've seen people do it on gundams as well.
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Jul 7, 2015 23:42
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:EDIT: also I said NON airbrush VMA Steel is like the best silver out there and goes on with a brush just fine. Grab it, you won't be disappointed.
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Jul 7, 2015 23:54
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Box art has two effects: inspiring people with how neato it looks and inspiring new painters/players to think their attempts are poo poo. I got tired of painting, I just wanted a painted army, so I did up some Dark Eldar years ago just to get it done and on the table so I could play games (one of the appealing aspects of X-Wing and other pre-painted games). This is both to show how an experienced painter can fart out some tabletop quality stuff and to show that Purple Power is not the same as Simple Green. The results surprised me: About 20 hours dunked, nothing but the hair came off (completely vanished, no scrubbing). I even rubbed it with my thumb to see if paint was loose.  I rinsed it in 91% isopropyl alcohol-- this was entirely to dry-off the model and get the Purple off it-- other paint came off. I have absolutely no idea what caused this or why, I am a dunce when it comes to chemistry. I scrubbed it with an old toothbrush and got this:  It's like it's partially highlighted now. The basing material came off but that's typical since I used white glue. Pardon me for not photographing the base, it was black rimmed before the scrubbing, that's down to the white base coat now. Purple Power: mysterious Fantastic 4 properties (use Simple Green, do that instead) 
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Jul 8, 2015 01:20
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Don't use purple power or simple green. Use Super Clean.
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Jul 8, 2015 01:44
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Master Twig posted:Don't use purple power or simple green. Truth. I just pulled a poo poo ton of minis out of 'the drink' as we like to call it and some had been there for 8 months. Paint came off, glued pieces separated, poo poo is like brand new and I'm not seeing any floppy or limp parts. I'm running the batch through a sonic cleaner and I've got a FW Chaplain Dreadnought down to the bare resin. However, I've got some Eldar Falcons that I think were primed with that Krylon Fusion poo poo and gently caress everyone who does that. Those Falcons are now black until the end of time and I want to paint them red.
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Jul 8, 2015 02:09
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Just use Denatured Ethanol or isopropyl. just don't ever use it for resin based models, it'll make them become rubber! (the stuff in simple green that strips paint is Ethoxylated Alcohol)
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Jul 8, 2015 08:40
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I'm still learning to paint (and also taking photos of models). These are the first models I've tried adding highlights to. Apart from the bases, I would consider these table top ready. I possibly need to pick up a better brush though. Photos seem to highlight a multitude of sins. Not-Typhus in my renegade chapter's colours  Brandus Rus, Leader of the Blue Meanies Cult.  Feedback and pointers welcome - I know I've got a long way to go, but that's the pleasure of learning something new. Can't wait for them to get instagibbed in their next battle.
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Jul 8, 2015 13:17
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Banged out this Vostroyan Rocket launcher guy in about a day, after realizing my original battalion box didn't come with a mortar and I had to buy the Cadian HW frame. Good thing, because since I have used a bunch of Lascannon gunners as pilots for my Chimeras and sentinels I ended up with a bunch of these binocular guys lying around.
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Jul 8, 2015 13:52
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That's a solid little conversion. Nice paint too. I dig the use of the little skull decal on the warhead.
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Jul 8, 2015 14:21
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Does anyone have any good advice for creating a sort of worn road line effect? I'm looking at making a landing pad terrain piece and I'd like the surface of it to look like when the yellow lines on a road have seen some wear and tear but are still clearly visible. If anyone knows how to get just that shade of yellow too I'd be grateful.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:07
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I can't help you with the color, but you can get that worn effect by sponging on the paint. Tape off the "clean" asphalt and sponge away - it will look awesome.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:19
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berzerkmonkey posted:I can't help you with the color, but you can get that worn effect by sponging on the paint. Tape off the "clean" asphalt and sponge away - it will look awesome. Alternatively: spray everything black, paint yellow/white markings, sponge everything with RMS Noir Black or equivalent (it's a very dark graphite color, direct highlight for pure black).
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Jul 8, 2015 15:25
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Hmm. Interesting options, both of them. I have a spare piece of material I can test both on and see which one I like. Thanks! As for the color, Rustoleum gives traffic line paintcolor as RGB 243:188:062 (hex F3BC3E), which will give me something to do today as 90% of my workload seems to be overseeing automated processes.
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Jul 8, 2015 15:31
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Another option, if you're willing to go through the effort, is the ol' hairspray chipping method.
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Jul 8, 2015 18:36
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How well does Vallejo Game Air work with brushes?
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Jul 8, 2015 20:46
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Partial Octopus posted:How well does Vallejo Game Air work with brushes? I've had good luck with it.
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Jul 8, 2015 20:55
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Partial Octopus posted:How well does Vallejo Game Air work with brushes? Fantastically.
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Jul 8, 2015 21:02
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PantsOptional posted:Does anyone have any good advice for creating a sort of worn road line effect? I'm looking at making a landing pad terrain piece and I'd like the surface of it to look like when the yellow lines on a road have seen some wear and tear but are still clearly visible. If anyone knows how to get just that shade of yellow too I'd be grateful. Here you go, salt weathering tutorial on the deadzone terrain. It specifically deals with yellow lines: http://whiteswolves.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/deadzone-terrain-speed-painting-guide.html?m=1
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Jul 8, 2015 21:57
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Does anyone have any tips for making your own DIY texture paints? Like the mud stuff GW sells? I figure I have paint, sand and pva glue; I could probably just mix it up myself right???
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Jul 8, 2015 22:05
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