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NotQuiteQuentin posted:Does anyone have any tips for developing a steadier hand? I've recently started back painting but having a shaky brush is making me do way too many touch ups. For fine detail work I wrest my elbows on my thighs, have my hands together, if I need more stability I prop on the edge of the table. As others say, just  unless you have pee tests at work.
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Jul 10, 2015 23:08
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So some parts I ordered in ages back finally arrived. I did A Thing.      Say hello to Senior Captain Have Yet To Think Of A Name For Him, my counts-as Pedro Kantor.
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Jul 10, 2015 23:58
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In preparation for selling them, I took a bunch of pics of my orks. So here's some image spam for some of the army.        
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Jul 11, 2015 06:12
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Fyrbrand posted:In preparation for selling them, I took a bunch of pics of my orks. So here's some image spam for some of the army. These guys are bloody awesome. Love the Killa Kan with the Trukk wrecking ball!  Quick progress shot, having blocked out all the basic colors. Next up, a good wash!
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Jul 11, 2015 15:43
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Fyrbrand posted:In preparation for selling them, I took a bunch of pics of my orks. So here's some image spam for some of the army. That's an awesome army man!
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Jul 11, 2015 15:45
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 And a wash later - now to let it dry.  Edit: Dried, drybrushed, cleaned up and highlighted. Lighting's different 'cause the sun's no longer shining through my window. Just need to figure out what to do with the base.  Edit edit: Just going to let the base dry overnight and drybrush a bit of orange on it. (Yes, that's Martian Ironearth) Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jul 11, 2015 |
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Jul 11, 2015 15:54
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Back on the topic of basing for a sec, here is a quick trip report re: the Army Painter basing materials I mentioned that I'd ordered (in an earlier post). They arrived today, and so I figured I'd give y'all the results: I'd previously based this German infantryman, but wasn't happy with it and so removed the old basing carefully, then repainted and varnished the base (and his boots, which also needed some touch-up work). I put some Mod Podge matte down on the base (as I find it tends to adhere better than the usual white glue). I then used the AP Brown Battleground and AP Rocks (both which appear to be ground cork, with the Brown Battleground being ground a bit finer), some AP Moss Green grass scatter, one of the AP Wilderness tufts, some Gale Force Nine summer clump foliage, and some GF9 summer static grass. I think I whipped the whole thing up in literally five minutes. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the way the base turned out, especially as I didn't have to paint any sand or rocks or anything (though I certainly could have if I wanted to). I wouldn't say this was an ideal method for showpiece figures, but for getting a bunch of Bolt Action (or 40k, or whatever) infantry based and ready to go in a hurry, it's definitely ideal. (and yes there was a wee bit of flock on his gasmask container that I didn't notice until after the pic was taken, I brushed it off just now  )
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Jul 11, 2015 21:28
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That's some really nice basing
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Jul 11, 2015 21:47
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Is there an uninspiration thread for primarchs? I feel sad about what i've seen today.
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Jul 11, 2015 22:59
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Primarchs have been 'showcased' in here before: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3660745
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Jul 11, 2015 23:56
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Skarsnik posted:That's some really nice basing Thanks! Here's a couple of plastic Bolt Action Brits that I rebased earlier tonight, using the same stuff. 
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Jul 12, 2015 07:26
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"Ach! Mein headachen!" But for real good job!
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Jul 12, 2015 10:33
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Frankly I'm a massive amateur with painting, but I've tried some stuff with this one from tutorials online. I know the left hand barrel is SLIGHTLY bent, but really I tried 4-5 times to get it to position and its not something you notice in person unless you're looking dead on down the barrel. (any tips for the lava bubbles would be great as I wasn't 100% happy with them). Part of a larger Salamanders project. The XVIII brushwork looks much better in person... like all painting does haha. Missile launcher moves fully and is detachable.    
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Jul 12, 2015 15:27
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    One counts-as-Kantor done! The anti-shine spray I used ended up cracking oddly on the smooth surfaces - I think the gloss varnish I used first hadn't had time to fully dry. The can said two hours, I'd given it ten. Ahwell.
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Jul 12, 2015 16:28
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Drake_263 posted:One counts-as-Kantor done! The anti-shine spray I used ended up cracking oddly on the smooth surfaces - I think the gloss varnish I used first hadn't had time to fully dry. The can said two hours, I'd given it ten. Ahwell. I'm terrible at painting minis, but I've heard reports of people waiting up to a week for gloss varnish to cure before adding the matte finish. Edit: The mud on the boots is awesome. Reminds me of a pair of sneakers I permanently stained while hiking around Molokai.
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Jul 12, 2015 16:56
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KPC_Mammon posted:I'm terrible at painting minis, but I've heard reports of people waiting up to a week for gloss varnish to cure before adding the matte finish. Probably not a bad idea. I did the same with a bunch of Razorbacks some time back, except I took almost a month before I got around to matt spraying them. No issues whatsoever. And thank you! It's literally the same Troll Slayer Orange I drybrushed the rest of the base with, I just wasn't too neat about keeping it off the mini. Seemed to work out nicely. Dude's clearly one of those force commanders who Gets poo poo Done. Edit: Purposefully wasn't too clean. I'm doing the same thing with my tanks - drybrushing TSO all over the lower edges of the armored skirts and the treads, then giving the most exposed and worn spots a careful lighter drybrush of Leadbelcher. Makes them look like they've been driving around in oxide dust all year. Drake_263 fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 17:21
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Moola posted:"Ach! Mein headachen!" Thanks! You can't see it, but the chinstrap on his helmet is hanging down on the right side. I like to imagine he had a bit too much schnapps the night before. (also the figure is from Black Tree Designs, in case anyone was curious. I really like their minis, they're pretty characterful and a lot of fun to paint)
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Jul 12, 2015 18:13
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Hey, I finished a thing! This year no less! I believe I started this back in February. Finished the main body, some of the horns, then abandoned it while I binge watched TV shows and read a lot. Finished the vomit, rider, base, and touch ups over the last two days. Hopefully this gets me back on track, I have a lot of Mierce, other random stuff I need to get started on.     
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Jul 12, 2015 22:53
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Bachtere posted:Hey, I finished a thing! This year no less! That is all kinds of rad, man.
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Jul 12, 2015 23:17
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Bachtere, do you have a album somewhere I can download? You always have amazing stuff I'd like to learn from.
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Jul 12, 2015 23:44
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I started painting again.  So far I'm happy with how he's turning out but am dreading when I get to his face.
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Jul 13, 2015 03:52
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Hot drat. This page rocks.
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Jul 13, 2015 04:23
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Lord Twisted posted:(any tips for the lava bubbles would be great as I wasn't 100% happy with them).   Looking at these two I have done I think I like the first more, the blue is less intense and was probably because my brush was more of a mix of wash and water and-or the new GW glaze is more saturated. Don't be afraid to work quick. I do one barrel at a time. Blue, rinse brush, purple starting away from the blue dragging into the blue a bit, rinse brush, sepia starting away from the purple dragging into the purple a bit. [Edit] Also I forgot that the guide I followed suggested to put bright silver back on the tips after to represent the barrels being super hot and clean on the ends. I didn't do this on my stormtalon and I think it looks worse for it as well. crime fighting hog posted:
WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 09:26
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I have no input on the lava but when you do the heat staining on the tips try to bleed the colors together before they dry. It looks too banded super close up, though it is much harder to do on larger flat barrels areas I will admit. Thanks mate I was going to go over those again having looked at them in the pictures - I managed to get the flamer and exhaust barrels looking good but the autocannons do look a bit stripey!
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Jul 13, 2015 09:55
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I have no input on the lava but when you do the heat staining on the tips try to bleed the colors together before they dry. It looks too banded super close up, though it is much harder to do on larger flat barrels areas I will admit. some brass/gold on the high spots before you start bluing has a pretty nice effect.
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Jul 13, 2015 10:04
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Sent off my second batch of red Eldar last week, to go match this lot I did a couple of months ago:  these are what got sent out (tabletop quality, no decals, no black lines, etc., just matching the dude's Dark Eldar army):     Wind Riders had magnetized weapons:  Vypers had magnetized turret and hull weapons also (I forgot to attach the hull weapons for the pictures, but they're magnetized too):  War Walkers only included one of each weapon, so the customer wanted one bright lance and one scatter laser on each: 
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Jul 13, 2015 12:09
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I thought you were done Still got the base, face, most of the metals to go. The power armor, cloak and chest are pretty much ready I think. He's the first commission I've had in ages, really motivated me to get back into airbrushing which is how I did the flames and armor. My next commission might be Bretonnians, which I'm so ready for.
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Jul 13, 2015 15:54
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Bachtere posted:Hey, I finished a thing! This year no less! gently caress yeah Bachtere is bach. Back. Great work, I've really missed seeing your stuff in this thread!
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Jul 13, 2015 17:24
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Is not power squatting, beefy legs, my kind of Marine asskicker. Nice job on making your own Chapter, too.
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Jul 13, 2015 17:47
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Does any company make a brown version of Reaper clear bright? Or just a larger selection of clear bright colors in general as mixing from scratch is a pita.
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Jul 13, 2015 18:53
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Anyone have advice on liquid mask? Seemed to work well, but when I went to remove it I pulled up the paint it was atop of. :-(
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Jul 13, 2015 21:58
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Signal posted:Anyone have advice on liquid mask? Seemed to work well, but when I went to remove it I pulled up the paint it was atop of. :-( Blu tac is supposed to work well for removing the mask, or so I have heard.
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Jul 13, 2015 22:11
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Personal experience, it never hurts to varnish between coats of paint. Just so long as you don't throw too thick of a layer of varnish down and give it adequate time to dry, that's an extra bit of protection against masking liquid or tape lifting off the paint under it. (If you're planning on doing an oil wash or waterslide transfers, you should always put down a layer of gloss first.) Think of the varnish as a "save point."
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Jul 13, 2015 22:43
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Painters tape, blue tac, liquid frisket, tamiya tape, whatever mask, best practice is to lay down a thin coat of gloss especially over airbrush work. A lot of times they'll be fine without it, but it sucks when they're not. I've had all of them pull up paint.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:22
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Gotcha, that makes sense. Briefly thought about putting down glass varnish (obviously didn't) but I was wondering if I hadn't let the underlayer dry long enough or something. With the liquid mask being applied over a thin airbrush coat of primer and paint, I shouldn't have been surprised.
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Jul 13, 2015 23:42
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Does anybody here have any experience with P3 washes? Are you intended to use them as-is like Citadel Shades, or are you supposed to thin them out? I know that if they aren't exactly what I'm looking for, thinning them out is my own prerogative, but it'd be nice to know if I should thin them out before they hit the pallet.
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Jul 14, 2015 00:20
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Paranoid Dude posted:Does anybody here have any experience with P3 washes? Are you intended to use them as-is like Citadel Shades, or are you supposed to thin them out? I know that if they aren't exactly what I'm looking for, thinning them out is my own prerogative, but it'd be nice to know if I should thin them out before they hit the pallet. Armor wash is your usual black wash, only slightly bluish. Not enough difference to notice. Flesh wash really likes some thinner and glaze medium if you're gonna use it like a wash, otherwise it's very concentrated and pools into crevices so you get overdone modern-GW look instead of a smoother shading. Also, less transparent.
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Jul 14, 2015 01:06
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All the hubbub about the Dark Angels release got me to paint some more Ravenwing bikers. I wish that when I first painted Ravenwing for my DA I did the white differently, but I kept it consistent with everything else even if it could have looked a little better. There's a lot more baubles and fiddly stuff on these guys compared to the old Marines I've been painting so much, but they've still got a shitload less than something like the Deathwing models.     
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Jul 14, 2015 03:09
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Am I crazy for wanting to prime models using Liquitex spray paint instead of Krylon? Besides the difference in price, that is.
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Jul 14, 2015 05:27
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Bachtere, do you have a album somewhere I can download? You always have amazing stuff I'd like to learn from. I've been using the same photobucket account since I've been on the forums. Everything is in there, though it is a pain to navigate. I need to look at getting everything up and available somewhere else. I have over 1200 cropped and named "good" pictures of my miniatures. http://s5.photobucket.com/user/bachtere/library/?sort=3&page=1
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Jul 14, 2015 05:39
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