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GEMorris posted:NC suspension and wheel gap chat: *Note: wheel gap shown at actual size  edit: poo poo this loses it's humor when it's on the next page
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Jul 28, 2015 20:20
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GEMorris posted:NC suspension and wheel gap chat: Exactly what I'm looking for as far as looks go.
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Jul 28, 2015 20:28
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Holy poo poo i forgot about the MS-R. Look that up and clone it as close as possible.
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Jul 28, 2015 21:32
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After 5 years away I'm getting another Miata exactly like the one I traded off. Won't make that mistake again. I even still have the snow tires (do they get old?)
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Jul 28, 2015 22:21
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powderific posted:After 5 years away I'm getting another Miata exactly like the one I traded off. Won't make that mistake again. I even still have the snow tires (do they get old?) Yeah, after time rubber gets hard. When I used to work for a tire company, we wouldn't sell any tires older than 10 years(I think). Feel 'em, if the outside isn't super soft in warm air, it's probably not going to do much for you during the winter.
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Jul 28, 2015 22:25
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They can also start dry cracking
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Jul 28, 2015 22:29
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$800 Rusty NA http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/5140434858.html
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Jul 28, 2015 22:48
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$1000 not totaled NA http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/5122214836.html
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Jul 29, 2015 03:15
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FatCow posted:$1000 not totaled NA At least mine has tons of details and junk.
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Jul 29, 2015 03:26
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Harmburger posted:Yeah, after time rubber gets hard. When I used to work for a tire company, we wouldn't sell any tires older than 10 years(I think). Feel 'em, if the outside isn't super soft in warm air, it's probably not going to do much for you during the winter. Hmm, they still feel pretty soft to me but are 8 years old at this point. Maybe I'll give them a bit more thorough examination. What snow tires do people like on the Miata anymore? The ones I had aren't on TireRack anymore. I'd like to find something that's decent in wet/dry conditions too as our weather is all over the place in the winter.
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Jul 29, 2015 03:34
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powderific posted:Hmm, they still feel pretty soft to me This doesnt mean much at all. Tires are the last thing you should save money on. I've seen so many cars with ABS lock the wheels (somehow) because their $35,000 car is riding on used tires. Meanwhile i blow through about 1 set per year (and a half, maybe). Which i think is pretty reasonable. I think after 2 or 3 years i'd consider throwing tires away i hadnt used yet. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 04:02
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I'm selling a Miata AC compressor in the Marketplace: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3515402&pagenumber=14#post448296858
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Jul 29, 2015 04:58
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I've got a 1990 Miata and I have some odd questions: 1. Is there a formal name for the piece of metal that holds the hood up? The one for my car is sitting in the trunk. It broke off so I may need to replace it. 2. Can someone tell me/take a picture of where that attaches under the hood? I know if you're standing in front of the car that it's somewhere on the bottom right but I'm not sure where.
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Jul 30, 2015 01:35
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It's the hood prop rod. P/N for a 90-93 is NA0156650. Miatamecca on eBay has the rod plus the little clips that are probably what broke: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Miatamecca-Hood-Prop-Rod-With-Holder-Retainer-90-93-Mazda-Miata-MX5-NA0156650-/370993747831 I would just install hydraulic hood struts because I'm a huge ricer, but only in ways other people will never notice or appreciate. https://www.flyinmiata.com/rspeed-dual-hood-lift-kit.html
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Jul 30, 2015 01:41
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I'm with you on that. That looks nice. Before I start ordering parts, I'd like to replace brake pads/rotors and shocks. I might autocross the car but I'm not sure. At the moment, I just like driving it on nice days. Any recommendations on these parts and where to get them?
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Jul 30, 2015 05:23
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ionn posted:The color didn't look horrible, I just thought it was odd with nothing else on the car being that color. The interior is all black. You may be able to run your VIN by Mazda and see what they can tell you about your car. Maybe it's been repainted and was originally supposed to be a different color, etc. You can also take a peek at the factory colors here: http://www.miata.net/gallery/na.html MattD1zzl3 posted:This doesnt mean much at all. Tires are the last thing you should save money on. Yeah, this is how I feel about tires, especially on a Miata. I'm loving my Dunlops, and the grip I get makes me not give a poo poo about how long they may or may not last. Related, these Kosei rims get dirty, but they do clean up nice with some effort. I used a cleaning wand and brush and it was still a pain in the rear end, but the payoff was worth it since they look like new. I spent more time cleaning the rims than I did washing the rest of the car.
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Jul 30, 2015 08:01
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Atomizer posted:You may be able to run your VIN by Mazda and see what they can tell you about your car. Maybe it's been repainted and was originally supposed to be a different color, etc. You can also take a peek at the factory colors here: http://www.miata.net/gallery/na.html Those photos was the first thing I looked a while back, and I just thought my car looked more like the Montego blue one, probably biased by the assumption that I didn't have some limited edition thing. The sticker inside the passenger door says the color code is 12K, which should be Twilight Blue. vindecoderz agrees with that, and also says (among various other abbreviations) "SP-ED" which I assume is "Special Edition", as well as "EXC.BILSTEIN DAMP". When I took them out, nothing on them said "Bilstein", but I guess I'll have a closer look. So, what about that edition is "special"? It seems pretty regular to me, but I have never been inside any NA Miatas of similar year to know what to expect. And apart from the body color and Enkei wheels, it doesn't seem to have the "distinguishing features" of the 1997 STO. For example, it has black interior, and lacks the headrest speakers, sill plates and rear lip spoiler. Pretty sure the interior is all original, and no tan anywhere. I would guess this is a mostly regular MX-5 with just some of the features of it, possibly some European "not-quite-STO-but-just-slithgly-special" thing. Repost of an earlier photo of how it looked when I bought it: 
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Jul 30, 2015 10:56
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ionn posted:Those photos was the first thing I looked a while back, and I just thought my car looked more like the Montego blue one, probably biased by the assumption that I didn't have some limited edition thing. The sticker inside the passenger door says the color code is 12K, which should be Twilight Blue. vindecoderz agrees with that, and also says (among various other abbreviations) "SP-ED" which I assume is "Special Edition", as well as "EXC.BILSTEIN DAMP". When I took them out, nothing on them said "Bilstein", but I guess I'll have a closer look. Montego looks blue or green or black depending on the light. It's a weird color. Yours definitely looks more blue. EXC. BILSTEIN might mean exclude, explaining why you didn't see them.  Your wheels seem to match the STO wheels too.
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Jul 30, 2015 16:41
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ionn posted:Those photos was the first thing I looked a while back, and I just thought my car looked more like the Montego blue one, probably biased by the assumption that I didn't have some limited edition thing. The sticker inside the passenger door says the color code is 12K, which should be Twilight Blue. vindecoderz agrees with that, and also says (among various other abbreviations) "SP-ED" which I assume is "Special Edition", as well as "EXC.BILSTEIN DAMP". When I took them out, nothing on them said "Bilstein", but I guess I'll have a closer look. Here's a photo of my US market '97 STO edition, that I photographed with another Miata for a reason I'll reveal shortly:  The car at a later date with the top down, showing the black & tan interior, which [partially] matches the top:  So as you can see, our cars look alike except for the interior color. There were different packages/editions/etc. for different regions, and AFAIK the STO edition was US only; you apparently have a Euro ("special edition") model with the same exterior color and rims but other differences. I can't explain why that color vinyl top was chosen for yours though. http://www.miata.net/faq/miatase.html http://www.mx5-mazda.co.uk/ I don't see a UK SE with that color & rim combo, so I'd guess a PO picked up those rims at some point. Related to the earlier discussion about hardtops, here mine is on the car, albeit post the collision at the body shop:  Note the snow tires on steelies with plastic covers. The top survived, the car did not.  Finally, here's a shot from that first scene; what's wrong with this picture?  More photos available upon request.
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Jul 30, 2015 21:55
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There are definitely two or more schools of thought on this subject and likely always will be. When I buy an ND, assuming Mazda ever offers a RHT from the factory in order to get me to jump off the ledge, I will be changing it at the 100 mile mark and installing a magnetic drain plug. From there I'll change it again at the 500 and 1k mile markers. Each time will be with whatever 5W30 conventional is on sale at Chinamart at that time. PYB, Quaker State, Mobil 5000, whatever. At the 1k change I will run that conventional fill until I hit 5k. From 5k onwards I will run Redline 0W30 at 6-8k mile intervals or once a year, whichever comes first. Regardless of warranty I refuse to run a 20 weight in a sports car that will see 7k rpms multiple times a day. CAFE isn't going to get me to run something in the motor that will eventually shear to a 10 weight.
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Jul 30, 2015 22:08
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I just got tricked pretty good near the end of doing a timing belt job. I had everything back together and working (miraculously), but I had this nasty leak right where the water inlet pipe meets the radiator hose. I figure it's the hose so I order a new one, put it in, and no go. I try replacing the squeeze clamp with a screw one, thinking that it must not be tight enough, and it makes no difference either. I take everything off and sand more crud/rust off the pipe, thinking it must be not mating properly, and still nothing. Turns out I had I actually hosed up seating the o-ring for the bypass pipe that's right above it, and the water was sliding down to the exact spot where one might think the hose was at fault. Everything worked perfectly after I replaced it.  This job took me exactly one whole month of gently caress-ups and cursing. Feels good to be done and driving this thing once again.
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Jul 30, 2015 23:18
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 nothing but good things to say about izoomgraphics. destructo fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 03:50
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http://mansfield.craigslist.org/pts/5139998008.html Is this worth the price that he's asking for a hard top in that condition? edit: Just found this instead. Same thing but looks practically new.
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Jul 31, 2015 06:13
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Partial Octopus posted:http://mansfield.craigslist.org/pts/5139998008.html I'm a little concerned by that second photo; it appears to show him lifting up the front of the hardtop and resting all the weight on those rear latch things that go over the Frankenstein bolts. 
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Jul 31, 2015 06:59
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Hikaki posted:I just got tricked pretty good near the end of doing a timing belt job. We got to the end. Buttoned everything up, and it ran fantastically. Then it clanked and didn't. Turns out the cam sprocket wasn't seated fully on the dowel that lines it up. Sheared the dowel off so bad we couldn't get it out of the cam. I had to go buy a 1992 (Ran/Drove for $300 bux) with huge amounts of frame rust to steal parts for my 1993. Mechanical bits are nice though. Donor cars are pretty nice to have. Multiplying hulks in your driveway aren't so nice. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Jul 31, 2015 |
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Jul 31, 2015 08:00
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Do any of y'all have a scan or a link to the oil change/maintenance intervals for an NC1? My car didn't come with a manual, so I'm kinda flying blind wrt maintenance intervals.
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Jul 31, 2015 11:18
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Laranzu posted:We got to the end. Buttoned everything up, and it ran fantastically. Then it clanked and didn't. Turns out the cam sprocket wasn't seated fully on the dowel that lines it up. Sheared the dowel off so bad we couldn't get it out of the cam. I had to go buy a 1992 (Ran/Drove for $300 bux) with huge amounts of frame rust to steal parts for my 1993. You have to stack the miata bodies up into a miatahenge.
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Jul 31, 2015 15:02
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BloodBag posted:Do any of y'all have a scan or a link to the oil change/maintenance intervals for an NC1? My car didn't come with a manual, so I'm kinda flying blind wrt maintenance intervals. Here's a manual for the 2007 - https://www.mymazda.com/MusaWeb/pdf/manuals/2007_MX5_OM.pdf This page has a manual for almost every year, and a bunch of handy links too - http://www.miata.net/faq/
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Jul 31, 2015 18:24
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Atomizer posted:you apparently have a Euro ("special edition") model with the same exterior color and rims but other differences. I can't explain why that color vinyl top was chosen for yours though. I'll just refer to mine as being the "Mom says I'm Special Edition  ".Atomizer posted:I don't see a UK SE with that color & rim combo, so I'd guess a PO picked up those rims at some point. Apart from generic aftermarket floor mats, stereo, and a badly attached shifter knob, there were no signs of anything not being stock on that car. The PO who had it the longest (about 2000-2010) was a real estate agent in a fancy suburb of Stockholm, and seemed to just have had it serviced very regularly and nothing else. I don't think anyone has got those wheels later, and they would probably be very hard to find here, so it seems probable they're what came with the car new. While it is possible the top had been replaced at some point, it did look like it could be 18 years old albeit decently well cared for.
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Jul 31, 2015 18:58
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Laranzu posted:We got to the end. Buttoned everything up, and it ran fantastically. Then it clanked and didn't. Turns out the cam sprocket wasn't seated fully on the dowel that lines it up. Sheared the dowel off so bad we couldn't get it out of the cam. I had to go buy a 1992 (Ran/Drove for $300 bux) with huge amounts of frame rust to steal parts for my 1993. Good god. I was pretty surprised to learn that the dowel is the only thing really mating the cam and sprocket though. That and the woodruff key for the crank.
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Jul 31, 2015 19:13
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Is it worth putting a '99 head/intake on a BP NA? I have a lead on a cheap one but I don't know if want to even bother with it.
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Aug 2, 2015 02:19
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Most of the gains on the NBs were from the heads. If you're going to run the OEM computer, I'd doubt it was worth it.
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Aug 2, 2015 02:53
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Turns out our parts car is/was a 1992 Black special edition thing with the tan interior and wooden shift knobs and stuff. Too bad most of the interior is covered in cigarette ash and the leather is cracked. I have no idea how to price the fancy parts now =/
Laranzu fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 03:09
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leica posted:Is it worth putting a '99 head/intake on a BP NA? I have a lead on a cheap one but I don't know if want to even bother with it. Are the '99s VVT or did that come later? The heads are still better but as stated, without the computer or a standalone you're probably not going to see any gains. VVT on an NA kicks all kinds of rear end, though.
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Aug 2, 2015 05:06
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So I just had my first light go out on an NA. What do you guys replace them with? I think I had heard HELLA E codes or something?
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Aug 2, 2015 05:45
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Just picked up an 04 MSM just like one I traded off five years ago and I'm pretty stoked, but I have a weird ride quality issue that I definitely don't remember from my last one. Basically, when I go over bumps (mostly at 20-45 mph so far, haven't gotten it on the interstate yet), it feels like there's a fast echo to the bump, or a shudder, that I mostly feel in the seat/seatback. It's like I'm getting low frequency vibration right in the kidneys after every bump. The feeling is really weird and actually makes me feel nauseous of all things. The car only has 55k miles on it so I thought the OE shocks should still be fine and it seems like it'd be bouncier if that was the issue. I feel like it probably needs an alignment, but I don't know if that'd cause this kind of thing. Any ideas?
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Aug 2, 2015 05:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Are the '99s VVT or did that come later? VVT is 01-05, It makes marginially more power but the 99-00 head is more desirable. I think you can even disable the VICS and use the stock NA computer with no issues*. Find someone to do porting for you, give it some stiff valve springs and slap it on. *its never "no issues", making the fuel rail work might be a PITA
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Aug 2, 2015 13:35
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I'm curious to know why the 99-00 head is more desireable. Fuel rail works fine on the 99s in an NA. You need a 99 fuel rail and an upside down fuel pressure regulator from a NA8 to put an NB head in an NA.
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Aug 2, 2015 15:23
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I'm just spewing secondhand anecdotes. Any NB head is going to make your NA better. The early NB head is just easier to use because there isnt really a great way of making the VVT work right unless you have an expensive ecu and tune, or a RPM switch that doesnt work like OEM at all.
MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 15:45
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| # ? May 14, 2024 17:54 |
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powderific posted:Just picked up an 04 MSM just like one I traded off five years ago and I'm pretty stoked, but I have a weird ride quality issue that I definitely don't remember from my last one. Basically, when I go over bumps (mostly at 20-45 mph so far, haven't gotten it on the interstate yet), it feels like there's a fast echo to the bump, or a shudder, that I mostly feel in the seat/seatback. It's like I'm getting low frequency vibration right in the kidneys after every bump. The feeling is really weird and actually makes me feel nauseous of all things. My car knowledge is pretty limited, but the way you describe that does sound like a shock, right? Like it's contracting correctly, but having a hard time expanding again. Okay, I thought of something. Jack the car up in back, put on jackstands. Get a car jack (not the Miata screw jack, like a regular one where it releases pretty quickly), jack one of the rear tires up to what would be regular ride height if it weren't in the air, and then release pressure on the jack all at once. The wheel should drop smoothly. If it's jerky, I think that's your problem. That said, I'm still new to cars. Someone check me on this.
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Aug 2, 2015 15:46
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