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Sounds kinda like a clogged jet, fuel pump seizing from heat, or a bad plug or coil.
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Jul 28, 2015 22:41
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Coydog posted:Help me CA. My ninjette is acting weird. Sounds like it's time to upgrade to a SuperDuke! The other suggestions are good, I'd also check your fuel tank vent if only because I'd always suspect that, but the symptoms don't match up that well.
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Jul 28, 2015 23:09
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M42 posted:That sounds exactly like when my ninja's battery poo poo the bed. It's funny you say that, because I thought of your exact video when it started happening to me. Semi uneventful huge loss in power, intermittently. But the intervals between loss of power and not were much larger than that, and when my SV battery gave up the ghost, the bike refused to run. While the battery got fully run down a few days ago, it's been great ever since. Nevertheless, I'll have the auto shop battery test it tomorrow. revmoo posted:Sounds kinda like a clogged jet, fuel pump seizing from heat, or a bad plug or coil. You give me so many solutions, none of them in any way appealing. It's pretty hot here, but my ride wasn't anything like the hard hot rides I've had lately. I thought maybe a plug related issue, but would that sap so much power, losing one cylinder? I wish the superduke was like 9k so I could be irresponsible and nab one...
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Jul 29, 2015 00:47
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Just finance it #yolo
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Jul 29, 2015 01:26
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Get a 690 duke in that case. Or better yet, get Sanchezz' duke if it's still for sale since I didn't.
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Jul 29, 2015 03:43
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Coydog posted:I thought maybe a plug related issue, but would that sap so much power, losing one cylinder?
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Jul 29, 2015 09:04
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Agree with M42, sounds like a bad battery, but could be some other ignition issue. Battery is the easy place to start with anyway. I had a problem with a coil once, but it was not intermittent. One side of the coil was simply dead and I could move the dead cylinder around at will. When it's bogging, does it still make power? If both cylinders are dead, the noise will still change when you open the throttle, so it's not always easy to judge if both or only one cylinder has gone when it's intermittent.
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Jul 29, 2015 15:35
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I only want a duke if it's 390 or 1290, sorry. I have to stick to my principles. I'll be checking the battery in a couple hours, and will report what I find. I hope it's that. The bike still makes power when it's exhibiting the issue, but I feel like it's a losing battle. I couldn't get it to accelerate past 6k, for instance. Perhaps I didn't want to after the first couple times it came back to full function with the throttle pinned. Good thing it's only a 250. When the SV battery died, it was a much more catastrophic event, ending in no power about 200ft down the road. That battery was TOAST, though. Hopefully this one is just really sick.
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Jul 29, 2015 17:08
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When batteries start to go, they can do some really weird poo poo - could be completely different from bike to bike.
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Jul 29, 2015 17:41
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Sadly, I did not get lucky. I just had the battery load tested and it came up perfectly good. Also, on a test ride afterwards, the problem got worse and more pronounced. For the first 3-4 miles, power seemed down, but I couldn't tell if that was placebo. Then , the problem came back in full force after I did some launches shifting near redline (to see if I noticed anything off in power). After that, it bogged hard, had trouble getting above 45mph, and had trouble on hills in first. When I would pull the clutch, it would go down to idle, then die a couple seconds later. It seemed delayed; drop to idle, then slowly sink to death. When this happened at a light, I had a fair bit of trouble starting it again. Took me several tries, and when it came to life I had to play with the throttle a bit. The sound it's making is even, but low and deeper. Oil levels are fine, and I don't hear any scary clattering that would lead to a broken engine. I'm hoping a plug cable is loose :/ Edit: Would seafoam and an itialian tune up help? Would that clear out a carb issue too?
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Jul 29, 2015 19:18
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I suspect the ignition too. First, just check all ignition coils, wires, spark plug boots and related hardware for obvious damage. Second, if possible, run the engine in the dark and check for sparks from the ignition cable. On my old bike the ignition cable would short out through insulation instead of the spark plug. The problem came and went. So did the bike.
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Jul 29, 2015 19:29
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I'm taking a break, and a drink, before venturing further. It has occurred to me that I have to remove the tank to get at any of this. My tank is full, so it's going to leak everywhere. I probably have to drain the carbs or something too. I might as well do the valves while I'm so far in there. How will I know which ignition coil is bad? Do I need to replace both if the plugs and cables seem fine?
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Jul 29, 2015 19:56
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Almost guaranteed you can lift your tank to access spark plugs without any fuel getting out. I'd be surprised if it doesn't have a fuel valve that keeps fuel from flowing while the engine is off. Look at plugs, one will look oily, sooty, and maybe even damp if the coil is going out.
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Jul 29, 2015 20:00
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I'll pray that the petcock works properly on this one. The KLR leaked like a sieve, but it was a ratty dirt bike. Thank you for the guidance on what to look for. I'll report back on what I find. In fact, while I'm at it, I gotta say all of your help is an incredible resource.
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Jul 29, 2015 20:03
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You can turn the petcock to off and remove the fuel line that goes from the petcock to the carbs to pull the tank. (You'll also need to disconnet the fuel sender wiring harness and pull some fairings) If his is a old gen ninja 250 watch out for the bolts that go into the front of the tank - some of them are longer and will puncture the tank if you mix them up.
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Jul 29, 2015 20:15
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Somehow, I was able to remove both plugs by just propping the tank up a bit on a towel and reaching in there. Good to have thin hands, I guess. This is good because those hoses do not want to be removed from the tank. I think I have progress, but I'm not sure what progress I made. Here are the plugs, oriented properly with the left cylinder and right cylinder plug.   Bad plug, or bad ignition coil on the right side? Wires look fresh and good from the coil to the plug, contacts inside look good. Wires going to the coils look fine, but are neatly wrapped in electrical tape type stuff? I don't know if that is factory or not. I followed them as far as a could and no visible breaches or breaks could be seen. It's daytime so I couldn't check for spark along the wires. http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-07-Kawasaki-Ninja-250-EX250-Ignition-Coils-Coil-Packs-A-/360578789814?hash=item53f42bb1b6&vxp=mtr these are used but way cheaper than the oem for 140 I can get locally. Coydog fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 21:12
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Well, at least to me the right plug looks fouled with carbon deposits. That could indicate it's running rich or having a bad spark. I can't imagine how the carbs could be intermittently feeding it a rich mixture, so again I'll go with the bad spark, wich could be caused by a loose connection or like. I'm not an expert on this particular bike, but if it is possible, can you switch the coils so the right coil feeds the left spark plug and vice versa? You'd need to switch both the plug boot and the connector to the wiring loom of course. If the problem moves to the left cylinder you have found the problem.
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Jul 29, 2015 21:41
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Oh Boy! So on Friday I moved from LA to the Bay. My DRZ was strapped into the back of a container truck with the rest of my stuff. Saturday I unload and of course I took my poor little bike out first. Now the rear shock doesn't have nearly as much spring to it as before. I didn't want to pull it apart until I know for sure what is going on, but I assume when I tied it down I ended up blowing something in the nitrogen tank and that led to the poor rebound. The bike still bounces up and down on a bit, but when I am on it it sits much lower. Am I right in my diagnosis? If so, what are my options and can I keep riding it in the meantime? I haven't even tried taking it out for a spin.
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Jul 30, 2015 02:29
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hows the seal look on the shock shaft? Theres also a couple of cheapo stock drz shocks on the local craigslist. 
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Jul 30, 2015 05:02
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cursedshitbox posted:hows the seal look on the shock shaft? It looks good to me. Rubber doesn't seem to have any cracks or damages. Can, can I ride it? 
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Jul 30, 2015 05:52
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It'll just ride like a klr. I'd ride it, but I'd ride a lot of broken things. If it bottoms out, I proooobably would set the spring preload higher.
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Jul 30, 2015 06:19
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cursedshitbox posted:It'll just ride like a klr. Cool. I'll take a ride tomorrow and see how it works. Unless z3n or somebody else thinks I am going to break my bike even worse.
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Jul 30, 2015 07:15
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Why don't modern bikes have valve adjustments by set screws like the pregen Ninjas?
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Jul 30, 2015 15:45
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Dutymode posted:Why don't modern bikes have valve adjustments by set screws like the pregen Ninjas? because those don't do so well at higher RPM's
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Jul 30, 2015 15:51
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But they're fine on the high-revving Ninja. I'd think they'd be fine on V-twins and such. Even if you'd have to check them more often they're way more approachable.
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Jul 30, 2015 15:54
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I thought you could only do valve adjustments that way with SOHC engines that have rocker arms. DOHC have to use shims due to their design.....right?
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Jul 30, 2015 16:31
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There are many different DOHC designs. The most high performance and high revving ones are usually the most difficult to work on. It's all about having the lightest and smallest moving parts in the valve train.
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Jul 30, 2015 17:37
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Dutymode posted:But they're fine on the high-revving Ninja. I'd think they'd be fine on V-twins and such. Even if you'd have to check them more often they're way more approachable. My wife's beemer has that type of valve. The valve adjustment schedule is at every oil change. Madness.
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Jul 30, 2015 18:47
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Man, I don't know if I'd be comfortable only changing my oil every 5 years.
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Jul 30, 2015 18:50
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Z3n posted:Just finance it #yolo 
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Jul 30, 2015 20:03
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Chichevache posted:Cool. I'll take a ride tomorrow and see how it works. I'd be more inclined to say you should check you haven't broken anything on your subframe or otherwise. Inspect the linkages, shock, etc, but it's probably ok. Maybe pop the shock out to see what's going on there.
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Jul 30, 2015 20:05
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clutchpuck posted:My wife's beemer has that type of valve. The valve adjustment schedule is at every oil change. Madness. It's every other oil change on my Honda, but then that works out to every 16000 miles which isn't so bad I suppose.
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Jul 30, 2015 20:13
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Z3n posted:I'd be more inclined to say you should check you haven't broken anything on your subframe or otherwise. Inspect the linkages, shock, etc, but it's probably ok. Maybe pop the shock out to see what's going on there. Will do. I'm pretty sure it is just because I ratcheted the back down and over the course of 24+ hours it hosed my shock up a bit.
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Jul 30, 2015 20:30
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Chichevache posted:Will do. I'm pretty sure it is just because I ratcheted the back down and over the course of 24+ hours it hosed my shock up a bit. Did you adjust your shock at all before doing that? Like to the lowest setting, for example?
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Jul 30, 2015 20:32
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Chichevache posted:Will do. I'm pretty sure it is just because I ratcheted the back down and over the course of 24+ hours it hosed my shock up a bit. Please stop killing and torturing our friends. Signed People for the Ethical Treatment of Bieks
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Jul 30, 2015 20:52
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builds character posted:Did you adjust your shock at all before doing that? Like to the lowest setting, for example? no.Marv Hushman posted:Please stop killing and torturing our friends. At least I started with a DRZ instead of something actually nice, like the Ducati M750 that was $500 less.
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Jul 30, 2015 20:57
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Future reference: you only really need to compress the front suspension down a bit with straps, not even to the stop. You don't even really need to secure the rear. When I haul in my pickup I secure one over the back but just for show because our state patrol like to trump up citations.
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Jul 30, 2015 21:25
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clutchpuck posted:Future reference: you only really need to compress the front suspension down a bit with straps, not even to the stop. You don't even really need to secure the rear. When I haul in my pickup I secure one over the back but just for show because our state patrol like to trump up citations. Every motorcycle I've sold the buyer comes with a trailer and proceeds to wrench down the front end of the bike to the point where the lower triple is right above the top of the forks. You can almost hear the seals screaming for mercy. Your bike now, hoss. I use a Canyon Dancer, makes it easy to get even pressure on the front end without overdoing it: http://www.canyondancer.com/
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Jul 30, 2015 21:40
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Chichevache posted:At least I started with a DRZ instead of something actually nice, like the Ducati M750 that was $500 less. Those who preach are often the biggest hypocrites.* *e.g., yours truly 
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Jul 30, 2015 21:48
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If you preach enough, eventually you become a hypocrite by default.
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Jul 30, 2015 21:53
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