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So I sprayed some dullcoat over a layer of army painter dip and ended up with a spot on the mini's head that might have gotten too much dullcoat and is actually shiny. What can I use to un-gloss dullcoat?
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Aug 5, 2015 22:05
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Unzip and Attack posted:So I sprayed some dullcoat over a layer of army painter dip and ended up with a spot on the mini's head that might have gotten too much dullcoat and is actually shiny. What can I use to un-gloss dullcoat? Spray it again? 
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Aug 5, 2015 22:21
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Iron Crowned posted:Spray it again? I tried that and the bright spot persists.
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Aug 5, 2015 23:11
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bencreateddisco posted:just getting back into painting again, was never any good to begin with When you have a lot of one "type" of metal, like on the first model you need to mix up what sort of armor washes you're using. I'd recommend using slightly different washes for, say, the armor, sword and shield. This way even though they are all silver, they aren't actually the same color so it doesn't make the model look plain. I'd also recommend going back over the trim on the armor and highlighting it with a silver color so it contrasts with the flat non-detailed parts more. There are a lot of options for washing your armor, a few good ones are: -Secret Weapon Armor Wash: A really good color but kinda ruddy. It's a very green/grey/dunkelgrau sort of look. Don't overdo it. -GW Black Wash: Best commercially available black wash, good for really "clean" looking steels. -GW Brown: Use this for older more worn metals like pirate sabers and such. Can be mixed 1:1 with GW Black to make a good armor wash as well. -Black Magic Wash: Either make your own or buy from Warstore (DiDi's is good stuff, I like it more than my homemade batch because it's very color consistent and cheap). Also good for clean metals and good for making dividing areas of metals (you could use it for instance on the lower area of a trimmed piece of armor). -Golden High Flow Shading Grey: Really good but dries shiny and dries incredibly fast, good for mixing with other washes and inks to make custom stuff. -Vallejo Smoke: Very subtle wash but good for doing light shading on areas. Pairs well with drybrushing. -GW Rust: Also an option to mix up metals, but expensive. -MIG Washes: very good, dry kinda shiny, smell awful, do their job really well. Less is more with MIG washes. -Army Painter Dark Tone: Good, dries shiny, very very thick, attracts dust and cat hair like a magnet, takes forever to dry. Unzip and Attack posted:I tried that and the bright spot persists. Apply a gloss coat and then apply a matte coat.
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Aug 5, 2015 23:31
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone have recommendations on a good mobile painting setup? As in something you can just fairly quickly pack up and deploy in a park, or just some other location with some of your paints, brushes, and other basic necessities. I've done this to paint on the road in hotel rooms. The first question is what, SPECIFICALLY, do you need in order to paint? Second, what's your budget for such a device?
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Aug 6, 2015 00:14
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone have recommendations on a good mobile painting setup? As in something you can just fairly quickly pack up and deploy in a park, or just some other location with some of your paints, brushes, and other basic necessities. I used something like this to paint at work. http://tinyurl.com/o5ejmlo
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Aug 6, 2015 00:43
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So I picked one each of Vallejo's Gloss, Satin, and Matte varnishes with the intent of using them with my airbrush. Any tips so I don't gently caress up the paint jobs? Edit: My end goal with the varnish is simply protecting the paint. Floppychop fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Aug 6, 2015 |
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Aug 6, 2015 05:56
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Do a coat or two of the gloss followed by a coat of matte. When you're applying it, just pass the airbrush over it, don't hold it over any given area. Your goal is a light, even coat. I don't really use satin unless I've got something that's supposed to be made of worked and finished wood (staves, wooden floor, etc). Then I'll brush it over the wooden surfaces. Works pretty well for that.
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Aug 6, 2015 06:36
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The guy at the store I bought it at warned me that the matte is "too matte" and that it can change the color. Is this true? Or do I just have to watch out for fogging?
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Aug 6, 2015 07:15
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Matte can sometimes darken things but it really shouldn't be too much of an effect if you're using light coats. The matte isn't there to protect, that's what the gloss is for, the matte is simply to de-gloss the gloss, if that makes sense.
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Aug 6, 2015 07:19
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signalnoise posted:I've done this to paint on the road in hotel rooms. The first question is what, SPECIFICALLY, do you need in order to paint? Would like to keep it under $100, but depends on exactly how beneficial the thing would be. Needs are at least one kind of water container, a sturdy platform of some kind to paint on/wipe brushes, etc, a pallet of some kind that isn't going to be a pain to haul around or too messy, at most 20 paint dropper bottles, safe storage for things like brushes, a few minis, etc., super glue and other minor repair tools, possibly some greenstuff in that same vein. Blackheart posted:I used something like this to paint at work. I guess I am not so much looking for something to just carry stuff around in as thats kind of easy. More like something that would contain some platforms and things needed to paint and organize once its deployed. Think field easel but for mini painting.
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Aug 6, 2015 16:35
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Floppychop posted:So I picked one each of Vallejo's Gloss, Satin, and Matte varnishes with the intent of using them with my airbrush. Use think coats. Drips of sealant suck.
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Aug 6, 2015 16:51
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Indolent Bastard posted:Use think coats. Drips of sealant suck. Think = (Thin + Thick) / 2 He meant thin!
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Aug 6, 2015 16:59
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nesbit37 posted:Would like to keep it under $100, but depends on exactly how beneficial the thing would be. This is what I got for about 90: 
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Aug 6, 2015 20:29
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That's pretty nice, where is it from?
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Aug 6, 2015 20:35
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nesbit37 posted:That's pretty nice, where is it from? b.... battlefoam...
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Aug 6, 2015 21:41
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Ahah, since I don't use battlefoam and there are a few case companies out there I was not aware.
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Aug 6, 2015 21:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:Use thin coats. Drips of sealant suck. Using thin coats, how long do I need to give for drying time between coats? Acrylic paint dries in less than a minute for me, but I don't know how long the varnish will take.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:00
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signalnoise posted:b.... battlefoam... 
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Aug 6, 2015 22:02
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Floppychop posted:Using thin coats, how long do I need to give for drying time between coats? It depends on your varnish, but leave it until you think it's dry, and then wait %50 longer. The answer is I don't know, but I'd wait longer than necessary rather than gently caress up any of my paint jobs.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:04
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nesbit37 posted:That's pretty nice, where is it from? the aristocrats
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Aug 6, 2015 22:10
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There is nothing more terrifying than the scorn of fifty goons over your chosen brand of paint and model storage.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:35
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We're not mad. We're just disappointed.
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Aug 6, 2015 22:40
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Mobile paint? Choose the small number of minis you want to paint, plan the colors you need. If you take your whole paint set you're doing it wrong. Painting surface, palette to load paint on? Get a glossy magazine. Newspaper can work in a pinch but it absorbs moisture like a sponge and may bleed through onto the table. Two or three brushes max, use the cup in the bathroom as your water pot for brush cleaning and stuff. Use the plastic coffee mug they leave in the room if you are an evil person.
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Aug 7, 2015 00:31
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I want to put some hand lanterns on some of my bases, to try and make them feel like they are in a mine shaft. Can anyone suggest a good place to find something that fits that description? edit: Star Man posted:There is nothing more terrifying than the scorn of fifty goons over your chosen brand of paint and model storage. I think it is more of a Romeo Filip thing. The only thing wrong with Battlefoam is the guy who owns it. Basically if you give him money, he will likely spend a portion of that money on lawyers to legally terrorize people and for paying out settlements to lawyers who successfully counter sue him for engaging in legal terrorism. Cyclomatic fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 05:54
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I...I won a custom battle foam bag for my x wing minis at a regional tournament. I use it. I'm a monster.  (I don't know about any owner drama but I'm sure there's good stories and I'll look him up.)
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Aug 7, 2015 15:37
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It's really hard to beat battlefoam specifically if you want custom cut foam. I could take or leave their standard sets but the custom cut option is really nice to have, though expensive.
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Aug 7, 2015 16:21
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Cyclomatic posted:I think it is more of a Romeo Filip thing. The only thing wrong with Battlefoam is the guy who owns it. Basically if you give him money, he will likely spend a portion of that money on lawyers to legally terrorize people and for paying out settlements to lawyers who successfully counter sue him for engaging in legal terrorism. Plus their biggest competitor, KR, is well in the other direction on the scale as they have sponsored the Oath thread with grand and other prizes for many seasons.
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Aug 7, 2015 16:39
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KR owns and their product is cheap enough that you can just customize the foam yourself in many cases.
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Aug 7, 2015 16:46
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Chill la Chill posted:I...I won a custom battle foam bag for my x wing minis at a regional tournament. I use it. I'm a monster. Just sew a patch over the Battlefoam logo. Nobody is saying don't use a free bag, but you don't need to advertise for them.
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Aug 7, 2015 17:49
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Indolent Bastard posted:Just sew a patch over the Battlefoam logo. Nobody is saying don't use a free bag, but you don't need to advertise for them. Good idea! Now to find a relevant squadron patch or two. 
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Aug 7, 2015 17:55
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Getting ready to start painting my first modełs just waiting on some last supplies to come in next week but I'm kind of nervous all I'll do is make a horrible mess and I won't be able to assemble and paint these things. Is it common to be nervous about doing this stuff for the first time or am I just a big dumb baby? I don't want my stuff to be fodder for the horrible painting thread I'm just starting out myself so I'll try to give some beginner perspective. Some of this advice may be bad, but you can't blame me. I'm new. 1. Try to figure out how much time seems practical per model, and pick a painting method suits it. Painting a big 100-man army? Think assembly line. Painting a 10-man Infinity squad? Think slow, fine detail. 2. Start with models that you don't care about (not part of your army, for example). When they look like garbage, you won't care so much. Also, you will be free to experiment with different colors and techniques and you won't feel like you are wasting anything. 3. Take your time. Even if you are painting multiple soldiers at a time, go slow, and concentrate on what you are doing. It is not possible to hit the ground running, so don't try. In the beginning, you need to learn, and get a feel for what you are doing. 4. Take frequent breaks. If you paint a guy and he comes out looking like trash, put the brush down for a day and figure out what went wrong. Don't just start again, making the same mistakes. Figure out something new and go for it. 5. Don't worry about your models showing up in the other thread. I promise, everybody paints trash in the beginning. Just like little Timmy's finger paints hanging on the fridge, we all know it looks bad, and that's okay. EDIT: Also, get one of these if you feel like you are going cross-eyed.
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Aug 7, 2015 20:52
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Well that and the other thread is for a lot of things. Bad painting only being one of them. Sometimes, I think it'd be a point of pride to get posted there. In any case, IMO, paint a group of minis, and then move on from them. Don't get stuck simplegreening and starting over, or giving up on a technique before you finish a squad. A lot of learning is just screwing up repeatedly. If you keep resetting without really getting in there and trying to make something work, you'll have a tougher time. You can always come back to your early work after you've finished painting your army. Which nobody ever does. So give up on that delusion now. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Aug 7, 2015 |
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Aug 7, 2015 21:28
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Yep, the worst thing you can do when starting out painting is to keep endlessly stripping models and restarting them because you never get anything finished and then give up.
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Aug 7, 2015 22:29
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Nearly everyone's first models look kinda lovely. I've been trying to find mine so I can see how much I've improved over the past 16 years, but honestly, it's kind of immaterial. If you don't like how something looks, or even if you do, find a thing you think you did wrong and figure out how to fix it on the next model. Nobody in this hobby ever got good at it without a bunch of trial and error. A large portion of it is just experience: how thin a paint needs to be for what you want to do with it, how much paint you want on your brush, how many layers you need to put down, how to mix paints to get the color you want, even something as basic as brush control. All of it is just practice, practice, practice. Most of us do this for fun, so if you find something you especially like doing, feel free to focus on it. Hopefully nobody is holding a gun to your head and forcing you to paint hundreds of clanrats or whatever if you're not into it. And like I Am The Scum said, take breaks. If you don't feel like painting, forcing yourself to do it probably won't be very productive. Go do something else, the model isn't going to walk away. If you want to paint, but are feeling down about it, watch a painting video on YouTube (Painting Buddha has been killing it lately if you need a suggestion) and try something new from it. Even if it doesn't work well at first, you'll hopefully get some inspiration and learn something from it.
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Aug 7, 2015 22:39
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Chill la Chill posted:I...I won a custom battle foam bag for my x wing minis at a regional tournament. I use it. I'm a monster. When you go down that rabbit hole, yes, the Diablo Bats Romeo Filip is that Romeo Filip.
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Aug 8, 2015 01:29
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Cyclomatic posted:I want to put some hand lanterns on some of my bases, to try and make them feel like they are in a mine shaft. There are some Warhammer and Mordheim kits that have lanterns that would work, the Cities Of Death / Imperial Cities / Whatever sets have lots of science fiction future lamps, go for those. Play Amnesia: The Dark Descent or watch a playthrough of it for some inspiration related to scary poo poo about lanterns.
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Aug 8, 2015 03:56
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I'm getting back into the hobby after a loooong time, and I have about $100 in paints I purchased over a decade ago, a mix between Reaper (in pots) and GW (some flip top, some screw off lids). Obviously when I opened up my paints, they were in various states, from separated, to gummy, to fully dried out. Most of the separated/gummy paints I feel like I've been able to mix back to a good consistency with a little extra liquid and elbow grease. The fully dried ones I'm not confident in doing anything at all with. The GW paints were all in a much worse off state, but even half of those I've tried seem to have 'come back' with little issue. Basically, how hosed am I, and should I bother taking the 5 minutes per pot to get the rest mixed back up? I'm not going to even attempt to use anything that I don't feel good about, but I don't want to fool myself into thinking the ones I think are OK actually are.
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Aug 8, 2015 04:30
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shoplifter posted:Basically, how hosed am I, and should I bother taking the 5 minutes per pot to get the rest mixed back up? I'm not going to even attempt to use anything that I don't feel good about, but I don't want to fool myself into thinking the ones I think are OK actually are. What paint colors do you really need?
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Aug 8, 2015 05:01
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All of them.  I have a lot of poo poo to paint. Two full KoW armies, Dreadball, and a bunch of Infinity models so I'm going to need a good variety of colors. The metallics are toast, I'm not even going to try reviving those. In all honesty, I'm most likely just going to prime and paint a couple things I don't care about first anyway so even the stuff I'm confident in will either prove to be OK or not. Anything that isn't good I'll probably just re-buy in a dropper. This is really more about pleasing my wife by not having to buy paints if I can get away with it.
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Aug 8, 2015 05:12
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