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As long as your bust is life size, you will probably be fine buying any Male Wig that is in the style you want. You're looking into basically 'one size fits all' options in most cases.
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Aug 3, 2015 18:11
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Just wanna make sure whatever wig I buy is going to fit the head. I hit ebay and there's a shitload of different options. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't wasting money on the wrong type. It's hard since you've given us so little to go off of for what you want/need to know. So long as you are using a vaguely human sized mannequin head, it should fit fine. Nowadays even the cheapest of wigs have a slight stretch to them and adjustable straps, so I would not worry too much about the fit. 'Heat resistant' means it can be styled with heat and usually costs more, if it doesn't say and you want to curl/straighten it test a very small hidden section of the wig first. If it is not it will just melt. If you want a realistic hairline, you want a lace front which will add to the price. Things to look out for with ebay wigs is that they're probably going to be shiny and you have a chance that it's going to be incredibly thin and you can see the wig cap underneath. Try for fuller looking styles. Honestly just buy one, if you don't care about the quality you're not going to be out more than ten bucks and you can figure things out.
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Aug 3, 2015 18:23
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I only have mediocre hallway photos of it all so far but hooray, WarCraft debut at GenCon went pretty well! The whole group, including our (apparently deceased) acolyte, whose robes I did the printing for  My costume!  Me with the contest grand prize winner, almost twinsies. This dude was freaking gigantic.  Dementor's kissing my co-builder/husband, he did a shitload of the work with me in the end. All the sewing, about half the patterns, most of the scales, and all the straps/attachment stuff in general was thanks to him.  Next up in McPantserton's life is Frostmourne, and uhh I def also started planning a wizard costume from Diablo because I hate free time. One major lesson I learned from this particular costume, though: I used a sweater for the chainmail and SERIOUSLY underestimated how hot I would be. I had ice packs in the back but I still got very, very dehydrated from wearing it for like 1.5-2 hours on Friday and ended up feeling really ill and crashing early. I'm planning on getting at least 4 more icepacks next time I wear it and am going to pay way closer attention to how much I'm sweating. Be safe, folks!
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Aug 4, 2015 02:24
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http://valkyriestudios.net/moldmaking-resin-casting-for-beginners/ Found this through a Metro con group, I think. Decent beginners resin tutorials, and far better than what you will usually find out there.
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Aug 4, 2015 03:25
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McPantserton posted:I only have mediocre hallway photos of it all so far but hooray, WarCraft debut at GenCon went pretty well! 
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Aug 4, 2015 05:11
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Since your back doesn't show you could replace the back with a mesh/breathable panel.
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Aug 4, 2015 06:29
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I wonder if I could do a mesh panel without wrecking the sweater, that's a super good idea. Next time I'm also going to add ice packs to the front under the belt, both legs, and on my head, and I'm going to use those blue gel ones that take longer to melt. I think my main problem, though, was I just did not aggressively drink enough water while in costume despite sweating an insane amount. I'm going to be sure to bring a water bottle with a straw so it's easy to get to, it's hard to drink in the helmet. And I'm going to take the helmet off for breaks if I need to. BUT! I also had an ingenious idea for when I'm wearing it casually and not competing! This motherfuckin' t-shirt, which I would wear anyway. So totally going to happen. And, honestly, I think it was the sweater that made Arthas so hard, I have worn tons of suits of armor before and never had anywhere near this level of trouble. Just pay attention to how you feel and maybe bring along some gatorade for later.
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Aug 4, 2015 15:46
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There is a guy in my town who dresses like Nosferatu all summer/fall for the tourists, and when it is really hot he wears a vest filled with ice under his robes. I thought it was something he made but Amazon has a bunch of cooling vests for sale.
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Aug 4, 2015 16:03
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I forgot about those, a bunch of cosplayers I know use them. I thought about getting one but I don't think they'd work for the molded cups in my plastic breastplates. Can I get like, a cooling girdle or something?
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Aug 4, 2015 16:34
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Is there room under the armor to store a Camelbak pack, so you can just keep the hose/mouthpiece hidden in your helmet?
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Aug 4, 2015 16:48
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McPantserton posted:I forgot about those, a bunch of cosplayers I know use them. I thought about getting one but I don't think they'd work for the molded cups in my plastic breastplates. Can I get like, a cooling girdle or something? You can actually just get a smaller unit that just wraps around your stomach, like this one. There are also versions that are designed for use with athletes or low-visibility so they are more discrete that might work better with your armor. Apparently this is a thing a lot of people with MS need so there is some variety beyond just a bag stuffed with ice.
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Aug 4, 2015 17:00
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The waistband is basically what I'll be doing but with like, frozen gel packs and duct tape. The part I don't think would work with armor is the underbust, if my gear underneath is not super fitted or flexible right under my boobs the plastic armor will not sit right. But as I said, not really that worried, Arthas is the only costume I've ever even really needed coolant solutions for so I'm pretty ok just jamming more ice packs whever they'll stay.
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Aug 4, 2015 17:21
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When I am working outside in advance I soak facecloths in water, wring them out, then freeze them in ziploc bags. Then I can have a nice frozen cloth to put on my face and neck.
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Aug 4, 2015 20:55
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With the Rose Quartz dress, I was considering making an extra layer with boning for extra support and structure. Given that I am, well, not skinny, I was planning on using steel boning for this because of the way plastic boning deforms and becomes horribly uncomfortable with time. Is this a terrible idea? A muslin would definitely have to happen to make sure it fits right, probably use plastic boning with it just for sake of being sure it's positioned right and the right lengths. Also planning on using a flesh-tone applique for the star rather than cut it out, so outer layer->light padding to keep the boning from showing through->structure layer with boning->lining (?) is how I'm picturing it working.
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Aug 5, 2015 02:41
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PANTS you look incredible!!! Thanks for the jolt of inspiration -- I know how I'm spending my evening.
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Aug 5, 2015 16:58
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Funhilde posted:Deadite I would suggest calling the cool neon folks with some of your questions. They are really nice and into helping in my experience, Blah, I thought I had my inverter issue worked out but then it shorted out right at the end of the test. https://youtu.be/8fMwhhfOypk The 9v inverters work if I hold down the on button, maybe I can just solder the toggle switch so that it's always on? I guess I will have to e-mail the cool neon guys.
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Aug 7, 2015 01:28
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Someone left this frog puppet at my work so I made it a cosplay.
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Aug 8, 2015 02:34
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Been looking all over online for a good changshan pattern so I can get a costume together. Any tips? Everything I've seen is not right or patterns for women. I didn't think it'd be so difficult to put together a Kamesennin costume!
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Aug 9, 2015 21:09
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gamera009 posted:Been looking all over online for a good changshan pattern so I can get a costume together. This pattern is for women but there are no darts. It could easily be made with less flare. http://www.folkwear.com/114.html
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Aug 9, 2015 21:32
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Does anyone have any recommendations for rigging or harnesses for under the outfit? I'm trying to figure out the best way to secure Doom's cape medallions and chain
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Aug 10, 2015 04:44
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Magnets would work if you put a matching pair in the medallions. Velcro would work if you didn't want to do magnets.
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Aug 10, 2015 07:17
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Magnets would work if you put a matching pair in the medallions.  Use the Magnets! Be sure to mark the polarity before you install them so that they attract each other.
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Aug 10, 2015 15:00
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I feel the main concern is weight. I found a gold chain from a purse that should work. It's metal, though, and I'd like something a little bit stronger to hold it in place than just the fabric of the tunic. One idea was pushing two screws upward out of the tunic, hanging the chain on that, then screwing the cape clasps on to them.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:55
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Mount the magnets to the body armor under the tunic. Small powerful magnets will hold it in place and you won't have to worry about the fabric holding the weight.
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Aug 10, 2015 20:13
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Finished another prop gun tonight. Was the first one I did with any LEDs so I'm pretty happy with it. Album
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Aug 11, 2015 05:02
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Faltion posted:Finished another prop gun tonight. Was the first one I did with any LEDs so I'm pretty happy with it. That's cool looking. Is it from anything or does it just look neat? I'm looking at doing a Two-Face costume and had some ideas for how to do the messed up part of the face. I'm thinking of doing cotton and latex so it looks like burned skin, and I'm also hoping to do some false teeth under that so it looks like my jaw is exposed. But I don't want to try and do all this on my face directly, because I want to be able to mold and shape it where I can see it. Will the method work if I build it like a half mask on a foam or plastic head?
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Aug 11, 2015 15:39
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CzarChasm posted:That's cool looking. Is it from anything or does it just look neat? It's from Destiny
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Aug 11, 2015 18:48
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I need some help with part of a costume. I have this staff: Which is just a broom handle with a mask from an old costume mounted on it. To mount the mask I used a styrofoam sphere that I carved to resemble a face, painted black, and glued to the top of the broom handle. It worked for a while, but the more I used it the more the styrofoam would pull apart and eventually the sphere would rotate on top of the staff. Is there something else I could use to mount this mask that is more sturdy than styrofoam, but not as heavy as a block of wood? I was considering some kind of wire mount, does anyone have any experience with that? Any ideas?
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Aug 12, 2015 00:40
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You could feasibly make an armature out of chicken wire, similar to something that might be used for papier-mâché, depending on how heavy the mask is.
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Aug 12, 2015 04:37
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I'm making a Raven (Teen Titans) costume for my daughter, and I'm wondering how to create her pointed hood. I've seen a similar design with the Assassin's Creed characters, but usually the hoods droop over the face of the cosplayer. I'd like to prevent this from happening. Would interfacing in the pointed part work? A stiff felt between the hood fabric and lining? Wire?
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Aug 12, 2015 05:49
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foxatee posted:I'm making a Raven (Teen Titans) costume for my daughter, and I'm wondering how to create her pointed hood. I've seen a similar design with the Assassin's Creed characters, but usually the hoods droop over the face of the cosplayer. I'd like to prevent this from happening. Would interfacing in the pointed part work? A stiff felt between the hood fabric and lining? Wire? There is a stiff felt-like interfacing you could use or possibly add some boning to the inside of the hood and across the front.
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Aug 12, 2015 06:01
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Deadite posted:I need some help with part of a costume. I have this staff: You could Fill the mask using expanding A+B Foam or spray insulation foam, kind of like in this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-_7EzNZ4e4 You can stick the broom handle inside the mask as part of the final filling, effectively gluing it into place. Or if the broom handle has a screw for attaching a broom head, you can screw that into the foam and maybe add a little foam around that to help it stick better.
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Aug 12, 2015 14:29
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So is worbla still the go to choice for light, strong, easy to use material or is PETG a better substitute? I just discovered PETG as another option in the other cosplay thread
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Aug 14, 2015 04:26
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thespaceinvader posted:Also worth noting that if you intend to spraypaint foam, you should test it first to make sure the accelerants won't dissolve the foam. Many foams are vulnerable that way, especially expanded polystyrene ones. The glue should seal it, but obviously (unless you like the acid-damaged look, it might be appropriate!) you need to make sure it's REALLY well-sealed. If you brush on some kind of sealant somewhat lightly, you can get a really cool decaying wood texture from the paint eating around the brush strokes, as I discovered in round two of the prop painting adventures... Also the holy grail of cheap fabric are remnant shops, places that sell whatever other stores and distributors can't for ridiculously low prices. They aren't always the easiest thing to find, so check out yelp or ask around at other fabric shops.
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Aug 14, 2015 11:17
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I'm going to a Starwars event next weekend which I have to dress up for in the typical Jedi/Obi Wan Kenobi Robe. I've got the hooded cloak but need to find the off-white robe to wear under it. I was thinking about going with an un-bleached judo gi but even the light weight ones are quite heavy and with it being summer I'm trying to keep the costume as light weight as possible. Can anyone recommend anything?
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Aug 14, 2015 11:25
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Commissar Canuck posted:So is worbla still the go to choice for light, strong, easy to use material or is PETG a better substitute? I just discovered PETG as another option in the other cosplay thread I think this comes down to personal preference. As far as I know, there isn't too much difference between the two products in terms of final results. There was some speculation that Transparent Worbla was just PET-G by another name, so... Disclaimer: I am not Pants, and therefore not an expert.
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Aug 14, 2015 14:30
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I haven't used the worbla TranspArt but I have not seen anybody do anything with it that you can't do with PETG so far. So take my word with a grain of salt and all but I seriously think that the Worbla clear plastic is just super upcharged because of the brand name.
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Aug 14, 2015 15:43
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Good to know! What thickness should I be looking for if I decide to get some to experiment with?
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Aug 14, 2015 16:05
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Most of the vacuum forming I've done is 040 but it is pretty thin (vacuum forming stretches/thins the plastic too) so if it's a technique that thins the plastic like that I have backed it with a thicker material, which probably isn't ideal for clear. So I'd probably get super small sample sizes of 040/060/080 if you can and see how it handles. At 080 you'll probably start having a hard time cutting it.
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Aug 14, 2015 16:09
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I have been working on a Tarecgosa costume based on this image and I'm looking for some creative input: I've gotten pretty far along, but now most of what I have left to do is the stuff I don't know how to do. This is only my second costume, so I don't yet know all of the secrets (although McPanterson has been a great inspiration). My main obstacle is the shoulders. They are the WoW tier10 paladin shoulders, as seen here:  And I have no idea how to create a flame/molten effect without it looking completely dumb. They don't necessarily have to be billowing or moving or even actively lighting up, but I think it should be something more interesting than just paint. This is what I've got so far, though it's still a work in progress:  Also, does anyone have a good solution to keeping thigh armor on? The leg strap is no match for gravity, regardless of how tight it's been pulled. I was thinking either velcro it to the leggings when I get them or attaching something like rubber grip-tape to the inside in hopes that it stays put.
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Aug 16, 2015 22:52
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