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But don't manual cars coast on idle too? Or have you never driven a manual before?
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Aug 13, 2015 10:13
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KARMA! posted:But don't manual cars coast on idle too? Or have you never driven a manual before? No - most just stall. Maybe modern ones do, I know my BMW did, but every other manual I've ever owned would stall in 1st with no clutch at idle.
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Aug 13, 2015 13:20
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Basically every modern standard vehicle will coast with no throttle and the clutch out in 1st. Same for bikes. Whats wrong with you people. 
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Aug 13, 2015 13:44
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I remember that as maybe the first or second exercise in the MSF course. You start the bike up, feather the clutch out and
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Aug 13, 2015 14:15
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tirinal posted:It depends on your dog's personality. Some take to it, some don't. A friend's scottish deerhound absolutely loves the sidecar and I've seen him get more excited by that thing than any amount of treats. For noise, they actually give him earplugs. Dogs in sidecars are the best thing. I saw a super excited dog standing up and stomping around in the side car when I was in Rocky Mountain National Park a few weeks ago, so cute.
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Aug 13, 2015 16:45
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Schroeder91 posted:So I noticed something I think is weird tonight. While I'm at work I was going to zip around the parking lot. I started the bike and waited a few seconds then decidedto coast and let the friction zone pull me and see how low the rpm will go till it stalled. As I'm letting out the clutch the rpm dips below idle(800-1k) and back up to idle(1k-1.2k)and maintains 4-5mph. Our parking lot is slanted in areas so it would change. The clutch has to be engaged slow, but not incredibly slow. Dropping it will stall the bike ubless above idle rpm. It'll fall back down to idle rpm and 4-5mph and roll around. This is literally the practice I tell people to do to learn how their clutch works. Great thing about motorcycle clutches: you can slip them FOREVER, since they're in oil. If you want super-good clutch control, practice starting out in 2nd from a dead stop without any throttle inputs ever. Depending on the bike, you may need to do this on a flat surface. Torquey V-twins (Harley, this one you're good at) you can start rolling in 3rd and get into 5th with your right hand in your lap if you have good clutch control.
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Aug 13, 2015 16:52
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Backov posted:No - most just stall. Huh? My 120 hp focus did it just fine. Same with the 90hp miata
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Aug 13, 2015 17:39
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A MIRACLE posted:Huh? My 120 hp focus did it just fine. Same with the 90hp miata Yeah, the car I did it in was a crappy Daewoo, and it's a trick I've used on every EFI bike I've ever owned for low-speed control (because the low-down throttle response on the first, a Laverda, was so horrendous that it was literally the only way to filter without it turning into a rocking horse)
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Aug 13, 2015 18:51
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I remember fondly the days of sitting in auckland traffic in a completely rooted Daihatsu charade 900cc 3 cylinder, sticking it in manual and cruising along at 10km/h while every other sucker in an auto around me had to gas-brake-gas-brake for forty five minutes. I don't tend to do it on bikes though, instead I have a habit of slightly blipping the throttle while riding the poo poo out of the clutch to smooth things out. I don't like the sensation of the bike moving with me not giving it throttle. e: How bad is this? The hard coating stuff seems to have worn through/flaked off in this area. Will it make a difference to how the bike runs?  Also, what stops stray air from being sucked in through the cap, past the throttle cable? I've literally never taken apart a directly operated carb like this. 
Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Aug 13, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 19:47
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Slavvy posted:I remember fondly the days of sitting in auckland traffic in a completely rooted Daihatsu charade 900cc 3 cylinder, sticking it in manual and cruising along at 10km/h while every other sucker in an auto around me had to gas-brake-gas-brake for forty five minutes. usually there's a rubber boot around where the cable meets the top... Also that slide could be hosed, or just fine. You'll know when the time comes.
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Aug 13, 2015 21:08
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Oh there's definitely a rubber sheath on the end of the cable that covers the little lock nut, it just seems hopelessly inadequate for holding back engine vacuum. Depending on how the carb looks inside I might just end up getting a Chinese ebay special.
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Aug 13, 2015 23:18
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Engine vacuum is not actually that powerful, especially on 2-strokes and little engines. The tiny air gap at the needle followed by the tiny air gap at the cap cable adjuster followed by the tiny air gap in the cable sheath won't really let anything through worth talking about. That slide is probably fine. Worst case it may allow more air through and you might have to jet to fix it but I doubt that.
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Aug 14, 2015 03:14
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That's reassuring! Is there any benefit to getting a different reed? I don't fully understand how changing reeds can improve performance - do they just have bigger 'windows' and a larger opening angle, or what? Evidently Honda dirt bike reeds have the same dimensions and people have seen benefits in switching for bucket racer purposes.
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Aug 14, 2015 04:10
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I was on vacation for two weeks and when I came back I rode my motorcycle to the grocery store 4 miles away. I came out and put the keys in, the neutral light came on, I hit the start button, it made a click, and I lost all power. I had to get my wife to come jump start me to get home, where it did the same thing when I tried to start it again. I hooked it up to my battery tender for 8 hours and it did it again. Is that just a dead battery or what else should I investigate? I've checked the connections on the battery, the posts are all solidly connected with little to no corrosion.
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Aug 15, 2015 16:44
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What voltage does your multimeter report the battery is producing? Also 8 hours on a tender may not be enough for a seriously depleted battery, a day or two is probably a bit better.
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Aug 15, 2015 16:49
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Was your battery wearing earplugs? We told you this could happen.
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Aug 15, 2015 16:55
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:What voltage does your multimeter report the battery is producing? Also 8 hours on a tender may not be enough for a seriously depleted battery, a day or two is probably a bit better. Even if it started right up and rode fine 10 minutes before? That's what seems weird to me. Even after the jump start and letting it run a good 30 minutes it went back to dead after the click sound and hitting the starter. It feels like it could be an electronics issue.
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Aug 15, 2015 17:10
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a fucky ground will do that to you... also do a load test on the battery to see if there is a cell shorting internally.
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Aug 15, 2015 17:20
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Don't most bikes electrical systems not charge below a certain RPM? If you're just letting it idle it wont charge the battery.
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Aug 15, 2015 19:42
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I rode it around for a while then tested it right after turning it off.
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Aug 15, 2015 19:53
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Buy a multimeter. All battery testing without a multimeter is pissing in the wind.
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Aug 15, 2015 20:45
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Bottom Liner posted:I hit the start button, it made a click, and I lost all power. When that happened to me, it was due to dirt and poor connections in the ignition cylinder. Thought that the main fuse had popped, but noticed the lights blinking when I jiggled the key. No idea why pressing the starter button triggered it, but it did. Flushed out the keyhole with WD-40, problem solved.
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Aug 15, 2015 21:34
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Slavvy posted:That's reassuring! Is there any benefit to getting a different reed? I don't fully understand how changing reeds can improve performance - do they just have bigger 'windows' and a larger opening angle, or what? Evidently Honda dirt bike reeds have the same dimensions and people have seen benefits in switching for bucket racer purposes.
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Aug 16, 2015 01:49
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The benefit to new reeds is usually that new fancy (carbon fiber etc) reeds are lighter and flex better so they flow air better. Also old reeds stiffen over time, I believe. The better they flex, the better they allow air to flow and the better they respond to directional changes in air flow. The windows won't change unless you change the reed cage itself. Oh, I didn't realise you could get just the reeds themselves. I'll have to look into this further because I'm not sure if the bucket racers switched the entire cage thingy or just the reeds, now.  How would I get the cylinder head to be all shiny and chrome like a cruiser engine or whatever? Would I take it to a shop so they can make it shiny, or is there a DIY method? I've looked up polishing alloys but I couldn't find a way of cleaning/polishing right down the fins and stuff. I intend to paint the rest of the motor black but I want a shiny head for aesthetic reasons.
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Aug 16, 2015 05:54
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Slavvy posted:Oh, I didn't realise you could get just the reeds themselves. I'll have to look into this further because I'm not sure if the bucket racers switched the entire cage thingy or just the reeds, now. You could probably make it pretty shiny with a Dremel and a *lot* of time but proper chrome would need all of that plus a proper chrome plating and the plating may or may not take properly depending on exactly what the part's made of.
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Aug 16, 2015 09:40
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It's just aluminium alloy (please nobody sperg about alloy composition differences since 1981), lots of engines have alloy bits that are super shiny. How is that achieved on an engine with lots of fins? Chrome coloured I guess? Or something? How do you describe that appearance without alluding to chrome?
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Aug 16, 2015 11:02
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Slavvy posted:It's just aluminium alloy (please nobody sperg about alloy composition differences since 1981), lots of engines have alloy bits that are super shiny. How is that achieved on an engine with lots of fins? Amount of fins doesn' really matter because it's electroplating, as long as the bath can get to the part it'll work fine. However it's much, much easier to electroplate freshly-cast metal than something that's been out in the environment for decades. Also the exact alloying makes a hell of a lot of difference to the plating.
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Aug 16, 2015 11:37
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Just get some autosol and some cheap toothbrushes / rags and add some elbow grease, that's how the old timers did it. It doesn't have to be that shiny right down in the fins IMO.
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Aug 16, 2015 14:52
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Is there any good freeish/ cheap video editing software avaliable? I got a new Garmin Virb XE camera but other than having the g-metrix support for adding misc displays the software itself is pretty poor. it can't do anything with the video file itself, only crop lengths, no colour correcting or anything. Makes the video colour very flat by default on youtube. I'm also missing a g force smoothing option. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6pm1Rr7EUg
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Aug 16, 2015 20:18
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The Ninja 250 is makes an irritating sound in 5th. It sounds like "WOM WOM WOM" or something like that, only in that gear and under load. Pulling in the clutch makes the sound go away, and it doesn't seem to start until about 6k rpm. Should I care about this or not?
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Aug 16, 2015 21:02
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How fast are you going? About 90?
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Aug 16, 2015 21:14
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I'll take the bait - maybe 50 indicated.
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Aug 16, 2015 21:30
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Supradog posted:Is there any good freeish/ cheap video editing software avaliable? Lightworks is pretty good, but the free edition is 720p only and has a weird bug that means it desyncs the sound from my helmet camera. Steam periodically does sales on Sony Movie Studio, I picked it up for £25 a while back and it's about as full featured as an idiot like me will ever need.
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Aug 16, 2015 21:56
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Lightworks is pretty good, but the free edition is 720p only and has a weird bug that means it desyncs the sound from my helmet camera. Nice, thanks! I'll keep an eye out on steam then while I test out the lightworks free version.
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Aug 16, 2015 22:18
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Dutymode posted:The Ninja 250 is makes an irritating sound in 5th. It sounds like "WOM WOM WOM" or something like that, only in that gear and under load. Pulling in the clutch makes the sound go away, and it doesn't seem to start until about 6k rpm. Should I care about this or not? You're probably picking up a resonance between the chain and engine or something.
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Aug 17, 2015 01:19
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Ok, I'll just ignore it then. It's such low miles I couldn't imagine I was having transmission problems already.
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Aug 17, 2015 03:09
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Slavvy posted:
I believe the time required to polish this thoroughly would result in endless waves of rage and self-hate if you wind up smoking the motor after reinstall. Try a decent, tasteful hi temp matte paint after a thorough cleaning. Even a polished fork lower--relatively accessible with no nooks and crannies--can be a PITA to maintain.
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Aug 17, 2015 05:14
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Noted. I don't intend to blow up the engine after putting it in (removing it takes all of twenty minutes anyway) but I admit making a huge mess after spending time polishing the head would be...unfortunate. What if I polished it then sprayed it with a clear? How hot can 'normal' paint tolerate before flaking, anyway?
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Aug 17, 2015 08:40
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Slavvy posted:Noted. I don't intend to blow up the engine after putting it in (removing it takes all of twenty minutes anyway) but I admit making a huge mess after spending time polishing the head would be...unfortunate. What if I polished it then sprayed it with a clear? How hot can 'normal' paint tolerate before flaking, anyway? I honestly wouldn't waste my time with anything but engine specific paint. Not a bike, but my car has dealer-installed ricer crap where they put on a body kit and painted the calipers red with normal rustoleum, and it's coming off in huge flakes from the caliper heat alone. You can try it, but it'd be a shame to go through all the effort to have the clear boil off and aluminum oxide form.
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Aug 17, 2015 14:13
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I've had good luck with plain old "satin black" VHT engine enamel in a rattle can. Give it a good surface to adhere to, spray it on, bake it with engine heat or put it in the oven. The black comes out between matte and semi gloss, similar to factory engine black. Paint the head silver and the rest black, that would look p cool.
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Aug 17, 2015 16:31
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