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signalnoise posted:Anyone have any experience with AK-Interactive paints? I have experience with their true metal paints, which are fabulous, but nothing else in the range
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Aug 23, 2015 10:08
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Cross post from the oath thread.Electric Hobo posted:
I'm pretty happy with this guy, but it was a bitch to photograph since the light from my lamp screws up the painted light a bit..
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Aug 23, 2015 10:19
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NTRabbit posted:I have experience with their true metal paints, which are fabulous, but nothing else in the range Do they have any hosed up properties like not being able to paint on top of them?
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Aug 23, 2015 14:23
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BlackIronHeart posted:According to this guide the 60923 also protects against acid gases, so I'd probably go for that if they're cheaper. Thanks. That's a great guide and I'm glad they went with pink for the P100s. Goes great with the blue 7500 I got. 
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Aug 23, 2015 15:09
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Does anybody have any recommendations for a decent cheapo airbrush for priming and basecoating?
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Aug 23, 2015 17:53
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Hixson posted:Does anybody have any recommendations for a decent cheapo airbrush for priming and basecoating? Fifteen dollar eBay special.
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Aug 23, 2015 18:00
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Hixson posted:Does anybody have any recommendations for a decent cheapo airbrush for priming and basecoating? I have two of this particular airbrush and so far no major issues. I use one for priming/basecoating, and one for gloss/matte varnish. I'm thinking about getting a third one here before long to use for spare parts, also. At around $15 it's certainly cheap enough, and cleans up easy (I usually just wipe everything down, and then put it in an ultrasonic cleaner with a mix of warm water and Purple Power).
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Aug 23, 2015 18:01
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Hixson posted:Does anybody have any recommendations for a decent cheapo airbrush for priming and basecoating? Just use your Sotar- pull back the needle a few mm so the opening is larger and then spray to your hearts content.
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Aug 23, 2015 20:54
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gently caress pushing primer through a Sotar IMO Instant clog
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Aug 23, 2015 21:41
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signalnoise posted:Do they have any hosed up properties like not being able to paint on top of them? The True Metal paints are wax based, so they're little a bit messy and definitely need varnishing to stop you forever spreading sparkles everywhere, but I've not had any problem putting down VGC, VMC and Minitaire Ghost Tints over the top of them. They polish up nice too.
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Aug 23, 2015 21:45
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So this model was actually given to me by a friend for my birthday back in 2007 or so when it was released. I'd already finished the storm shield conversion and primed the model when I read up on the rules and found out it wasn't a legal wargear combination, but I don't think I'll get a hard time for some nonfunctioning wargear. It's mostly just so he'll look good tooling around with my Deathwing Knights. Anyway, this was a quick and dirty paintjob I did over the course of a day, so while it's not my favorite it gets the job done:   
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Aug 24, 2015 04:03
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For reals, that Dark Angels kit has those wrap-around eye pieces? I don't care if it makes no sense at all, those look so cool. I'm not going to dig up a pic, but the blaster in Payday 2 looks like the dumbest, coolest tacticool thing in the galaxy it has all of the upgrades. Life is so surreal, this is just wonderful. He mentioned a Sawsall, I thought he was going to cut the can open. I promise that if another can of paint quits on me I'll run an experiment to cut it open and get usable paint out (eye protection and such involved, don't panic). It really sucks to buy a can of paint that's way, way overcosted but the magic blue smoke escapes so now it's just a paperweight. I missed a chance to test that when the other stuff failed, I'll try it on the ol' Boltgun Metal when that flops. Avenging Dentist posted:I haven't painted in like a decade but I decided to get back into it, so here's a fairly-basic question: when priming, about how thick should the coverage be in the end? Rattle cans have gotten better since I started painting, Krylon has a wonderfully thin, even sprayer. However, I still spray on one or two coats before finishing the rest with a paintbrush after it dries. It's been ages since I've had a can create a clotted, thick mess that obscured details of the mini. And, jesus god, those minis of yours look really, really good. Those colors are amazing. The subtle weathering and environmental grime is also great. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Aug 24, 2015 |
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Aug 24, 2015 04:55
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Post 9-11 User posted:Rattle cans have gotten better since I started painting, Krylon has a wonderfully thin, even sprayer. However, I still spray on one or two coats before finishing the rest with a paintbrush after it dries. It's been ages since I've had a can create a clotted, thick mess that obscured details of the mini. That reminds me that I need to grab some brush-on primer for touchup and such. Has anyone used Vallejo primers for brushing on? I've been liking their VMC range a lot, but I haven't tried the primers. Post 9-11 User posted:And, jesus god, those minis of yours look really, really good. Those colors are amazing. The subtle weathering and environmental grime is also great. Thanks! The technique I used on the blue was a little labor-intensive (lots of drybrushing, since I hadn't figured out how to use inks yet*). You'll notice I didn't highlight any of the armor, since I didn't understand the physics behind why you actually need to highlight your little guys, and I thought highlights were just "cartoony".  By the time I did the champion, I had sort of figured that out, so all the metal bits have more highlights than I'd have done previously. I wish I could find the article I'd read back then that explained the physics behind why highlighting and shading are necessary at miniature scale...I think my goal is to do a practice mini or two, then paint up some VC skeletons for a D&D game, and finally get to work on my Kukulkani. I'm kind of dreading painting those since 1) I'll need to rebuy a lot of paints to get the colors I want, and 2) they use those deep-welled bases but also have tabs under the feet, and I haven't decided how to deal with that yet. I always paint guys and then base them, but if I have to sculpt the ground for the base over top of the tab, that'll be a real pain in the rear end. Some of the feet are pretty delicate, so pinning might be tough too. I guess I could just cut off most of the tabs, except right under their feet. This lady is the worst though, since without the tab, she barely touches the main section of the base. Maybe she just needs special treatment apart from everyone else. * I still haven't, to be honest, but now there are washes.
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Aug 24, 2015 07:01
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Avenging Dentist posted:Has anyone used Vallejo primers for brushing on? I've been liking their VMC range a lot, but I haven't tried the primers. Based on my experience thus far, the black Vallejo Surface Primer works just dandy for brushing on, it's almost like gesso in that it shrinks as it dries from what I've seen (though you don't want to just glop it on, of course). I have four other VSP colors: Leather Brown, Pure Red, USN Light Ghost Grey, and Desert Tan. Out of the four, I've only tried brush-priming the grey and the results were...not good. Went on very blotchy (and this is without thinning, and after shaking the bejesus out of it) when applied with a brush. Haven't tried the red primer yet (probably will when I get around to painting more Khador). The brown and tan ones I've only used thru an airbrush, both of which worked just dandy (as did the black and grey primers).
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Aug 24, 2015 07:25
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signalnoise posted:gently caress pushing primer through a Sotar IMO Just pull the needle back a few mm and it sorts itself out like magic 
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Aug 24, 2015 07:27
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Based on my experience thus far, the black Vallejo Surface Primer works just dandy for brushing on, it's almost like gesso in that it shrinks as it dries from what I've seen (though you don't want to just glop it on, of course). I really just need white and black, and only for touch-up work, since I don't see much point in respraying something just because I had to clean up a mold line. I'll give Vallejo a try. Thanks!
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Aug 24, 2015 07:36
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BULBASAUR posted:Just pull the needle back a few mm and it sorts itself out like magic And thin it, don't ever trust even 'airbrush ready' paint to be thin enough to put through anything, always experiment with any new paints/primers. Also, air pressure.
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Aug 24, 2015 09:46
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UK goons, has anyone had any experience stripping the privateer press plastics in fairy power spray? I've stripped plenty a metal model in it, but never hard plastic or whatever the hell PP call their soft plastic. I'm picking up a second hand cygnar starter set and as much as I appreciate it being painted, want to strip them all, re-base and re-paint the lot.
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Aug 24, 2015 10:04
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Grey Hunter posted:I've got a interest in adding some words to my UCM drop-ships for Dropzone commander - but I'm worried my attempts to paint words on will look terrible. http://www.hawkforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6746 Basically, if you can design it, write it in a word processor, or find a picture of it, you can use it as a decal. Also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3jZDQamA90 Pilgrimski fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Aug 24, 2015 |
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Aug 24, 2015 12:53
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  Progress shots of my Blood Raven Scions. Turns out that using Red Gore instead of Wazdakka Red for edge highlight didn't work at all because it's barely noticeable unless you look in really close. Especially over Scab red which turns really dark after getting a Devlan Mud wash.
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Aug 24, 2015 15:57
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Cooked Auto posted:
Old Red Gore is basically the same color as Khorne Red. Highlight it with Mephiston Red, I did for my Dark Angels's weapon casings. It's not as bright as Wazdakka Red but it'll still be noticeable.
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Aug 24, 2015 17:54
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I've learned to stop worrying about drybrushing and love the bomb- I mean. Hrm. I brushed some metallic over the hazard stripes to make it look more "real." The stripes are at different angles and different thicknesses, I hosed up, but gently caress it. Someone on planet Earth has the Obliterators I painted, I don't remember how I painted them, the goal was to make it look like molten metal. They looked good, these guys look more like ketchup and mustard. My saturation/hue adjustments aren't 100% on this photo. The legs of the big dude have been adjusted so they don't look as awkward as before. Again, the GW basing kit is super cool even if it is over-priced. I was wondering how to paint the helmet then I realized that it shouldn't be painted like a rival faction but just like an Iron Warrior. Even after rebelling they are still facing an endless slog, walking over the corpses of their brothers. It works really well thematically, just like I wanted the colors to be murky and the molten metal effect represents how angry they are. That effect also makes the Obliterator seem like molten goo rather than having dumbass frankenstein's monster toes.
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Aug 24, 2015 18:01
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The only part of the big dude that I don't think works is the really typical Imperial sarcophagus on the Dreadnought. It just looks a little too normal compared to the big freakish limbs and biomechanical stuff on the rest of the big lug. I really dig the Obliterator though, he's pretty awesome looking.
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Aug 24, 2015 18:04
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Reminds me of Robocop--one of the 'failure' projects kind of looked like that. It's cool IMO. But I know what SRM means, and it makes sense.
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Aug 24, 2015 18:19
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Anyone know of good online stores that carry a good chunk of the Hasslefree Miniatures range in the USA? The only one I know of that has more just a couple of their minis is Fantization, but they have a lot of gaps.
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Aug 24, 2015 18:56
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Avenging Dentist posted:That reminds me that I need to grab some brush-on primer for touchup and such. Has anyone used Vallejo primers for brushing on? I've been liking their VMC range a lot, but I haven't tried the primers. I do that with all my models (I don't really have anyplace I can spray stuff). Both the black and white primers work great brushed on.
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Aug 24, 2015 19:02
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VSP is hell on brushes though unfortunately
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Aug 24, 2015 19:17
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signalnoise posted:VSP is hell on brushes though unfortunately Noted. I have a stack of shitbrushes from when I stopped painting last time around, so I'll just use those.
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Aug 24, 2015 19:23
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SRM posted:Old Red Gore is basically the same color as Khorne Red. Highlight it with Mephiston Red, I did for my Dark Angels's weapon casings. It's not as bright as Wazdakka Red but it'll still be noticeable. Oh good, Mechrite red. I have a couple of pots of that. I'll give that a whirl before ordering the updated paints.
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Aug 24, 2015 19:31
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Cooked Auto posted:Oh good, Mechrite red. I have a couple of pots of that. I'll give that a whirl before ordering the updated paints. Mephiston Red, not Mechrite Red. Mechrite Red is a gross nail polishy purplish mauve poo poo color with bad coverage. Mephiston Red is actually decent.
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Aug 24, 2015 19:39
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SRM posted:Mephiston Red, not Mechrite Red. Mechrite Red is a gross nail polishy purplish mauve poo poo color with bad coverage. Mephiston Red is actually decent. Ooookay. Guess I'll order that from the flgs or something because none of the stores I live have all the paints anyway. Although I'm pretty sure the Mechrite red pots I have aren't as bad as that.
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Aug 24, 2015 19:50
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SRM posted:Mephiston Red, not Mechrite Red. Mechrite Red is a gross nail polishy purplish mauve poo poo color with bad coverage. Mephiston Red is actually decent. Did you just talk poo poo about Mechrite red?  Seriously though, I hated the subdued colors of the old foundation line until I realized how great they are as base to highlight and shade. But "bad coverage", really? 
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Aug 24, 2015 19:50
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SRM posted:Mephiston Red, not Mechrite Red. Mechrite Red is a gross nail polishy purplish mauve poo poo color with bad coverage. Mephiston Red is actually decent. Mechrite Red is my favorite color and will fite you irl. It also smells good.
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Aug 24, 2015 20:40
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to be fair, mechrite red does have a pit of a purple / pinkish tingle to it, it's not as brilliant a red as some other colours.. but yea.. moaning about the coverage? that stuff goes on like inch thick make up on a teenager. I've always liked P3 skorne red as a base for building up to a brighter red, it's quite dark and covers black fairly well. If you want a darker red, you can't go far wrong with VMC burnt cadmium red, that's a good one for coverage over black too.
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Aug 24, 2015 20:45
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SRM posted:The only part of the big dude that I don't think works is the really typical Imperial sarcophagus on the Dreadnought. It just looks a little too normal compared to the big freakish limbs and biomechanical stuff on the rest of the big lug. I really dig the Obliterator though, he's pretty awesome looking. You're totally right, but I used the sarco' to replace the "crazy guy's face peeking out" bits. I'm okay with those bits on the Oblit' because the concept of that creature is nuts, there's no way to normalize it. I cut off many Chaos details, maybe I could have cut off some of the Imperial stuff. Iron Warriors don't care about awards and glory, I thought using the familiar imagery on the "face" of the machine worked with the theme: no paint on it, no care given to it, a billion of these were printed out and the IW mechanics didn't care. They were neither offended by the heraldry nor cared to paint it up. I can pretend like I meant the heart of the machine, the pilot, is resisting the mutation, keeping his old "face." I didn't plan that but it fits, and it's not a ghoul face that conflicts with the pretense of a Chaos Dread.' It's fun to come full-circle on these guys, too. The first set I did was like black sludge with metal highlights, the second set was chromed-out, this feels like the right balance of grimdark metal dudes.
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Aug 24, 2015 21:48
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Pierzak posted:Did you just talk poo poo about Mechrite red? I always had lovely coverage with the stuff, it was like painting with bad nail polish. Two coats would cover black, but two coats of Scab Red would do the same and look way better in my experience. I think I mixed Mechrite with Red Gore to make a decent looking red with half decent coverage but I never ever liked that color. Post 9-11 User posted:You're totally right, but I used the sarco' to replace the "crazy guy's face peeking out" bits.
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Aug 24, 2015 22:09
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Does anyone have any recommendations for an alternative to brown stuff? Based on the description, brown stuff is exactly what I want, but the manufacturer doesn't make it anymore. I've heard complaints about Milliput in comparison, and then there are options like ProCreate or Privateer's putty. Specifically I'm looking for something harder than green stuff.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:57
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for an alternative to brown stuff? Based on the description, brown stuff is exactly what I want, but the manufacturer doesn't make it anymore. I've heard complaints about Milliput in comparison, and then there are options like ProCreate or Privateer's putty. Specifically I'm looking for something harder than green stuff.
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Aug 25, 2015 01:28
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As a new comer to the world of painting tiny plastic mans should I try learning zenithal priming as soon as possible or just get used to things primed in one color then try my hand at zenithal priming?
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Aug 25, 2015 01:31
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I don't think it can be emphasized enough how much cool stuff you can do with modern plastics:
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Aug 25, 2015 01:32
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