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Meow Meow Meow posted:I found that build up on the edges/drips and bubbles were the cause of it being a bit too thick. Try thinning 10, 20 or 30% (try different ratios and see what you like) with mineral spirits and brush on using a bristle brush, if it's thinned enough it will self level and the bubbles should come out on their own. This, also dont skimp on the brush quality, use Purdy or equivalent. I've also found that high humidity retards drying, obviously. I generally try to time the finish application for evening, when you can lock it up for the night. I forget where I learned that from.
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Sep 2, 2015 23:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:This, also dont skimp on the brush quality, use Purdy or equivalent. I've also found that high humidity retards drying, obviously. I generally try to time the finish application for evening, when you can lock it up for the night. I forget where I learned that from. I'm in Las Vegas. Parts of the finish are usually tack-dry by the time I'm applying the last area of that coat. Thanks for the tips. I did pick up a Purdy bristle brush this morning, actually. I'll try the brush and some mineral spirits and see how that goes.
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Sep 3, 2015 00:12
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I'm building a set of corn hole boards. In the process of making radius cuts on the legs I discovered that I'm really bad with a jigsaw. I was planning on using a jigsaw to cut the the hole in the boards but based on the results of my cutting it seems like a supremely bad idea. Unfortunately a 6" dia hole saw costs like 40$. I'd rather not spend that on a blade I'm probably not going to use very often, if at all. Any suggestions on either how to improve my jigsaw technique or other tricks on cutting a perfect circle in 1/2" plywood would be appreciated.
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Sep 3, 2015 02:17
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Do you have a router? If so, slap together a circle jig, that's how I did it for mine and it worked great, pretty much constant cornholing out here now. Otherwise, if you really can't follow your cornhole's rim but are dead set on using a jigsaw anyhow, make your cut 1/4-1/2" on the inside of the circle and worry it away with a rasp. It'll take a lot of elbow grease but should allow you the control you want, just widen that cornhole out nice and slow, don't rush it. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 02:22
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You can make a circle jig for a jig saw just like a router. It's pretty simple, just google "jig saw circle jig". All you really need is 1 scrap piece of wood.
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Sep 3, 2015 02:36
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Also be sure the blade you're using is the right size for the diameter of circle you're cutting.
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Sep 3, 2015 02:58
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Bad Munki posted:Also be sure the blade you're using is the right size for the diameter of circle you're cutting. This was something I meant to ask as well. I'm assuming I want a high TPI blade but what width am I looking at for a 3" radius?
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Sep 3, 2015 03:24
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King Hotpants posted:I'm in Las Vegas. Parts of the finish are usually tack-dry by the time I'm applying the last area of that coat. I had similar problems when I did our large dining table and learned to do it *really* quickly in order to keep everything flowing. I think I got it down to under 30 seconds at the end. It was my first woodworking project and I did not know about thinning at that point.
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Sep 3, 2015 03:30
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King Hotpants posted:I loving hate polyurethane. This is why I'm going for wipe-on finishes, requies more coats, but dries faster so dust and drip and pooling aren't issues.
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Sep 3, 2015 06:01
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Seems there's a meltdown at Sawmill Creek. Apparently you can't say "You suck :p" anymore when someone makes a gloat thread posting about getting a tool for real cheap. Stirred up a lot of trouble and accusations about over moderation etc and caused several members including Phil Thien to leave the forums.
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Sep 3, 2015 06:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:Seems there's a meltdown at Sawmill Creek. Apparently you can't say "You suck :p" anymore when someone makes a gloat thread posting about getting a tool for real cheap. Stirred up a lot of trouble and accusations about over moderation etc and caused several members including Phil Thien to leave the forums. I blame it on too much free time to worry about minutiae and the general escalation that happens on internet forums and real life. If 87 octane is good, 94 octane must be better. If a little bit of politeness is good, a whole lot of politeness must be better. If one example is good, three examples must be better.
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Sep 3, 2015 07:19
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I know it's a joke that there really needs to be a thread on tables/bookshelves, but that's what I need help with. To preface, I'm a total novice. I have a bad history with bookcases. Every single one of them I've ever owned has been a wobbly p.o.s. and I'm a bit tired of it - I ripped apart my last cheap bookcase (a 72" Ikea one) because it refused to actually stand straight even after I bolted it to the wall. Even now my books are just sitting in this sad pile over where bookcase used to be, and it's at the pont where this is unacceptable. I decided I want to build a bookcase that fits my needs and since I have a lot of books I figured I could nip the possible wobbly bookcase syndrome I seem to be plagued with in the bud if I make the bookcase a bit triangluar in nature. The measurements I want to use are as follows: 35" at the base, 31" at the top, sides are 70", depth of the case will be 12". Becasue there are no 45 degree angles, I'm actually not sure how I will attach the side walls to the top and the bottom of the bookcase. So my questions are as follows:
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Sep 3, 2015 08:16
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Apeshit Sixfingers posted:I know it's a joke that there really needs to be a thread on tables/bookshelves, but that's what I need help with. 1) Lay it out in pencil on a sheet of plywood (or your garage floor if you're cheap like me) then use a bevel gauge to figure out your angles from that. Chances are it won't be an integer (or even half an integer). Then use that to lay out your miters on the top/bottom. 2) Sure. Or run a rebate at the appropriate angle in the sides (you'll need to cut your top/bottom longer to account for the rebate) and just glue away. At 70", I'd also suggest sticking a fixed shelf in the middle to keep it from bowing. Again, use your layout to figure out the length and cut a dado where you want it. I guess you'll probably need all your shelves to be fixed, though, since they can't be adjustable in a trapezoid...so dado all your shelves, I guess. (I'm not a huge fan of pocket screws. I don't trust them to be strong enough to support weight on their own, especially not in shear.) 3) 3/4" should be fine. I've got three 4'-long bookcases I built out of cheap 1x8 pine and they haven't sagged more than 1/4" in the middle. At less than 35", your shelves shouldn't sag even that much. Edit: is this going to have a back or is it open? If it's got a back, you can screw through the back and the shelves won't sag at all.
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Sep 3, 2015 09:18
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If you're going to design something yourself, I strongly recommend modeling it in a 3D modeling program like Blender or SketchUp first. You'll encounter and fix tons of problems with the virtual bookcase, which is of course far superior to encountering them and fixing them when working with the actual wood. Good luck!
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Sep 3, 2015 13:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you're going to design something yourself, I strongly recommend modeling it in a 3D modeling program like Blender or SketchUp first. You'll encounter and fix tons of problems with the virtual bookcase, which is of course far superior to encountering them and fixing them when working with the actual wood. Having just designed a bench for my miter saw in SketchUp I strongly second this advice. The learning curve is a bit "wtf" at first but there are some good video tutorials (like 10-20 minutes at most to get you going) and once you learn the basic workflow it's pretty straightforward. I went from Zero to this in like 2 days of playing around in my spare time (and made some major design changes in the process that would have been a pain on paper):  (although I have no idea why it exported in that weird wide-format)
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Sep 3, 2015 15:12
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Apeshit Sixfingers posted:I know it's a joke that there really needs to be a thread on tables/bookshelves, but that's what I need help with. This sounds like a nightmare, but hell, you may be a xylo-savant waiting to happen. I can't feature what exactly was your problem with previous rectangular book-cases if they're bolted to the wall studs. 3/4" material is fine, plywood or natural. In my experience, book cases need backing to stiffen up the structure, but no more than 1/4" plywood is required. Also, if you dado the top and bottom into the sides, that will provide some forgiveness for the angle cut not being perfect. Screws would require some sort of countersink and button fillers, pocket is not necessary. edit: the dado and 3/4 material all imply using a face-frame, which was how most of the book-cases I built in the past were- for residential installation. You may not be thinking in that direction... Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 15:28
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As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this  What do the more experienced folks think? Not sure what the smaller blue things are on the lower part of the second pic, on the right.(swapping out an image. He said he's pulling the listing, since I'm up for buying it) Geop fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Sep 3, 2015 |
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Sep 3, 2015 18:49
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Geop posted:As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this
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Sep 3, 2015 18:53
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Geop posted:As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this loving hell  e. Slugworth posted:I mean, it's a start at least. lol
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Sep 3, 2015 18:54
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Slugworth posted:I mean, it's a start at least.
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Sep 3, 2015 19:05
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Geop posted:As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this That is a good deal. Those small blue things are corner clamps for making cabinets. http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-QUICK-GRIP-90-Degree-226410/dp/B0001LQY6M/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1441305500&sr=8-12&keywords=corner+clamp
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Sep 3, 2015 19:38
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Geop posted:As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this You can never have too many clamps.... wait.. that's too many clamps
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Sep 3, 2015 19:58
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Jesus, the parallel clamps are worth more than that alone.
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Sep 3, 2015 21:55
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MickRaider posted:You can never have too many clamps.... wait.. that's too many clamps
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Sep 3, 2015 21:58
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Geop posted:As someone who is more starved for clamps than most, I'm thinking of jumping on this I was going to make a joke here about "thinking? about clamps? what's your problem!" but you're already buying it so never mind I guess.
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Sep 3, 2015 22:45
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This made me check craigslist and a guy about an hour north of me is having a moving garage sale. Those clamps are mighty tempting... Shame I'm not supposed to be spending money... Also a planar would be awfully nice.... crap, I don't even have room for the tools I own.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:03
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Magnus Praeda posted:Edit: is this going to have a back or is it open? If it's got a back, you can screw through the back and the shelves won't sag at all. It will have an open back (I just prefer the look) TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you're going to design something yourself, I strongly recommend modeling it in a 3D modeling program like Blender or SketchUp first. You'll encounter and fix tons of problems with the virtual bookcase, which is of course far superior to encountering them and fixing them when working with the actual wood. I didn't even know these existed, so thank you!
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Sep 3, 2015 23:11
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Apeshit Sixfingers posted:It will have an open back (I just prefer the look) You could try putting a French cleat on the wall to support the shelves. It'd take some careful positioning to get the height right, though.
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Sep 3, 2015 23:13
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If you're dipping your toe into Sketchup, I found this guys videos really useful in learning the woodworking side of things. http://jayscustomcreations.com/category/sketchup/sketchup-instruction/
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Sep 3, 2015 23:18
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Has anyone here ever built a wooden skin-on-frame kayak? I'm thinking of building one from Tom Yost's plans and it'd be nice to know if anyone here has gone through that process before.
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Sep 4, 2015 00:38
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Apeshit Sixfingers posted:I know it's a joke that there really needs to be a thread on tables/bookshelves, but that's what I need help with. MrPete posted:If you're dipping your toe into Sketchup, I found this guys videos really useful in learning the woodworking side of things. Jay Bates (sketchup guy referenced by MrPete) did a really simple bookcase that I think you might want to look at, Apeshit. I have a feeling that your saggy bookcase blues are more because you've had lovely bookcases and less because a rectangular bookcase will always sag no matter what. http://jayscustomcreations.com/2015/07/easy-huge-2x10-stopped-dado-bookcases/
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Sep 4, 2015 02:03
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King Hotpants posted:Jay Bates (sketchup guy referenced by MrPete) did a really simple bookcase that I think you might want to look at, Apeshit. I have a feeling that your saggy bookcase blues are more because you've had lovely bookcases and less because a rectangular bookcase will always sag no matter what. I built something almost identical to that to fit as a built-in in my parents' entryway. It was heavy as poo poo, but it'll never sag.
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Sep 4, 2015 04:39
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Apeshit Sixfingers posted:I figured I could nip the possible wobbly bookcase syndrome I seem to be plagued with in the bud if I make the bookcase a bit triangluar in nature. Just give up on this idea. Google "how to build a bookcase" and you will get stuff from popular mechanics, this old house, youtube, family handyman,instructables; not to mention every woodworking magazine has a bookcase issue every year and it's about that time for them to come out. Build a bookcase with rabbets and dadoes and you'll be good to go.
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Sep 4, 2015 05:29
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Really the only thing to consider in a bookcase is the shelf width vs thickness/material strength. So just dont make the shelves 1/2" thick and 4 feet wide unsupported.
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Sep 4, 2015 05:57
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I love that bookcase by Jay Bates but I can't help but wonder when it will crack open at every edge since he left the pith in.
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Sep 4, 2015 09:19
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I have thought about making something similar out of LVL but not sure the look would be any good, need to find a sucker who will pay me to experiment
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Sep 4, 2015 12:10
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wormil posted:Just give up on this idea. Google "how to build a bookcase" and you will get stuff from popular mechanics, this old house, youtube, family handyman,instructables; not to mention every woodworking magazine has a bookcase issue every year and it's about that time for them to come out. Build a bookcase with rabbets and dadoes and you'll be good to go. I did all of the math to make it work, but dammit I don't want to spend the time cutting each shelf to fit after mitering them. So ultimately I'm going to build a variation of the one in the video that was posted. I do have one additional question though that I can't seem to find an answer to: Do I have to put legs on the bookshelf? Can the bottom just be flat?
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Sep 5, 2015 03:22
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Apeshit Sixfingers posted:Can the bottom just be flat? I wouldn't recommend it. The bookcase should rest on the sides, on a separate base, or on legs. Jay's bookcase is crazy overbuilt, just follow the plan and you can probably store bricks on it.
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Sep 5, 2015 05:03
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What's a reasonably-accessible n affordable hardwood that prioritizes maximum springiness over strength? I'm interested in making myself some hammer handles down the road, but for chasing hammers- these weird things:  And they have some unique requirements that other hammers don't. The big, bulbous handle, light head and very thin neck are all designed to allow for very fast and controllable hammering in a kind of "jackhammer" motion that relies mostly on handle flex to work properly. Manufacturers of hammers are very rarely sensitive to this, and tend to make chasing hammer handles out of hickory or padauk, woods that are good for the strength-n-shock-resistance needs of big hammer handles, but pretty poor for the flex that a chasing hammer should have. IIRC the traditional solutions are some of the weirder fruitwoods and even oddballs like willow, but I'm going off old memories here. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Sep 5, 2015 |
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Sep 5, 2015 18:52
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I was going to suggest willow, which is used for cricket bats for precisely those reasons. You might also do well to look at woods which are traditionally used for bow-making such as yew.
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Sep 5, 2015 19:58
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