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Hey guys, I wanted to re-paint some cheap plastic sunglasses I have. I have a feeling that regular spray paint would chip off, but I'm not sure. Any thoughts on how to prime them to hold spray paint? Or, would something else work better, like a can of plasti-dip or something? Thanks! Edit: Nevermind, I think I answered my own question with some additional Googling. Krylon Fusion is meant to be sprayed on to and bond with plastic, so should hold up well. If anyone has an anecdotal evidence on that though, feel free to comment! 
cloudy fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Sep 16, 2015 |
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Sep 16, 2015 16:50
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Tshirt material might work for the tunic and pants. Dunno about the sleeves though. I'm thinking actually of not making the mask go all the way around, and leaving the back open, since I'll have the hood up. Should make it a little less stifling and less likely to end up giving me heatstroke.
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Sep 16, 2015 17:28
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e. Wrong thread
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Sep 16, 2015 17:40
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True. I was thinking more along the lines of the eyes and mouth being a bit lit up cause of robot head, and then having fans worked into the circuit to help cool you down a bit. You might be able to rekajigger a voice modulator in there somehow too.
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Sep 17, 2015 02:22
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cloudy posted:Hey guys, I wanted to re-paint some cheap plastic sunglasses I have. I have a feeling that regular spray paint would chip off, but I'm not sure. Any thoughts on how to prime them to hold spray paint? Or, would something else work better, like a can of plasti-dip or something? Krylon Fusion is my favorite plastics spray paint in terms of durability but has somewhat limited color options. I have also had pretty good luck with the Rustoleum 2 in 1 primer-paint which has more colors except it reacts a LOT with other spraypaints (crackling FOREVER) so I pretty much never clearcoat it. I used Rustoleum for probably my last like 4-5 plastic costumes because of the colors and it holds up quite well.
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Sep 17, 2015 03:52
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Any recommendation for hair props? Had to shelf Totoro due to time and budget constraints. Decided to just do Kamesenin. I'm already bald so no fear of accuracy there. Curious how to get the white eyebrows and beard. Mostly, getting it to stick without shaving my own eyebrows. 
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Sep 17, 2015 13:48
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Spirit gum or liquid latex can help you stick fake hair to your face in a non-permanent way. I recommend spirit gum since you can get it easily removed with a solvent, but some people really hate that stuff.
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Sep 17, 2015 14:12
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I was working on a Big Shoota cosplay for school. Sadly, the only thing that was finished in time was the makeup. Not bad for a first application and my model was great.
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Sep 17, 2015 16:19
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gamera009 posted:Any recommendation for hair props? Had to shelf Totoro due to time and budget constraints. Decided to just do Kamesenin. What about covering them with latex and then putting the fake lashes on that.
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Sep 18, 2015 05:50
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Apparently you can also just use a glue stick to cover them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VonOATmYKas
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Sep 19, 2015 04:19
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How would a beginner go about making this sword:  The cosplayer is a child, so it would ideally look as large and ridiculous as it does in the picture. I looked at some tutorials, and it looks like foam board is the best bet... I'm just wondering how I could strengthen the handle without increasing the weight of the sword too terribly much. Also, I am unsure how I could make the knuckle bow... Michaels has this black craft foam pirate hat which is perfect for the dome shape, but I'm worried about how many layers of acrylic paint it might need to get the proper colour. I'm also worried about the paint cracking. ALSO I ONLY HAVE A WEEK TO MAKE THIS HAHAHA.... 
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Sep 19, 2015 05:14
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Halloween stuff is in stores now, you might be able to find a toy sword with a similar hilt and then just add foam wherever needed and paint the whole thing.
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Sep 19, 2015 05:36
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Half a floral wreath for the bow, wrapped in whatever fabric to make it look right. 1/2" foam board from Lowe's for the blade, maybe seal it and hit it with a fiberglass resin overlay for strength. Shouldn't be too hard to do, probably under 40 bucks in materials easy. Biggest cost would be the resin and the spray paint.
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Sep 19, 2015 07:10
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Patattack posted:Immortan Joe voice changer stuff Keep us updated if you find a good solution for a voice changer. I'm doing a Batman Scarecrow costume for my work's Batman themed holloween and was wanting to have a voice changer in my mask. I've got a possible solution in taking one of these apart, but the sound quality isn't too great. Been looking around, and yeah, it seems to be cheap toy that sounds awful and crazy expensive kit with no middle ground.
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Sep 20, 2015 01:17
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lord_daeloth posted:Keep us updated if you find a good solution for a voice changer. I'm doing a Batman Scarecrow costume for my work's Batman themed holloween and was wanting to have a voice changer in my mask. I've got a possible solution in taking one of these apart, but the sound quality isn't too great. Been looking around, and yeah, it seems to be cheap toy that sounds awful and crazy expensive kit with no middle ground. Don't waste your time with that thing from Amazon. I did that for my scarecrow costume and the sound quality is just awful, having it set to constantly on kills the batteries too so you're changing them roughly every 30 mins.
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Sep 20, 2015 02:08
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fallin1 posted:Don't waste your time with that thing from Amazon. I did that for my scarecrow costume and the sound quality is just awful, having it set to constantly on kills the batteries too so you're changing them roughly every 30 mins. Yeah, I already have one so I'm aware of the crappy sound. I was planning to rig a switch to turn it on when needed for effect, so battery wouldn't be a problem. My issue is purely in the quality area, but there doesn't seem to be many viable options, unfortunately. Pretty much every affordable vox I've found I've looked up on amazon for ratings, and they are all awful 2.5 stars or lower. Oh well, may just have to toss that idea.
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Sep 20, 2015 04:20
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vivisecting posted:I'm just wondering how I could strengthen the handle without increasing the weight of the sword too terribly much. Also, I am unsure how I could make the knuckle bow... Michaels has this black craft foam pirate hat which is perfect for the dome shape, but I'm worried about how many layers of acrylic paint it might need to get the proper colour. I'm also worried about the paint cracking. Not sure if you have any more reference pics, but for the knuckle bow, it looks like I would probably grab some 1/2" EVA floor mat (anti fatigue mats at Harbor Freight or other hardware store) and cut it into this general shape:  For the handle, I'd use 1/2" or 3/4" PVC pipe (less than $4 for a 8' section at Home Depot or Lowes). Cut the PVC to how long you want the sword to be overall, and then cut the holes in the above shape to be exactly the same size as the pipe diameter. Fold/Mount the foam board around the PVC for the blade (or follow any of the thousands of Cloud Strife Buster Sword DIY tutorials out there), add a pommel, and bob's your uncle. PVC is cheap and lightweight, and the sword should be pretty strong overall from the pommel to the tip. Since you'd have a lot of EVA leftover after making the knuckle bow, maybe you could just make the whole sword out of it? Then you could search for sealing/painting EVA foam to get an idea of how other folks have gotten around the cracking/chipping issues.
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Sep 20, 2015 12:06
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Ok so I can't remember if I've posted previously but ideally I'm looking into making a grey knight purifier costume, with my 6'9" friend potentially being a GK terminator. I'm 5'11-6' flat on a good day, and am considering about a foot height increase with the armour and so on. So for anyone who has built power armour from 40k, what sort of size/scale did you use? Thanks in advance! Also my character may potentially have a jump pack that "looks" like it works and will either have a big hammer or more likely, a pair of force swords. I'm pretty good with electronics and being an engineer have already thought out lighting and the like, my other main query was how to have light up eyes (as GK eyes glow blue) and be able to see? TIA
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Sep 20, 2015 14:23
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Also should mention I have access to 2 of my own 3D printers (one is currently loving about and not printing properly, stupid resin machines), as well as two different 3 axis mills, a 5 axis mill and a fabricator for work with 2 mill turn and a Cnc lathe. Oh and 2 water jet cutters, one 3 axis and one 5. And a full host of fibreglassing and finishing equipment (thanks work for building motor home components all day! And also a friend who paints Warhams so is pretty good at detailing. Ideally I think it could be fun and time reducing to Cnc machine some of the armour if it got to a point where I wanted to build moulds but I really think it would be a one off. Maybe in future, I haven't quite worked out the whole contact mould building process for hand layups yet 
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Sep 20, 2015 14:28
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One of the guys I cosplay with did a GK suit back in 2011 but tbh it wasn't very good  so I'm not sure there's much from that build I would recommend. We also did StarCraft marines and we probably added I want to say 4-5" in the feet, plus another 3-4" over the head and I thought it was a good balance between making us look huge vs not having us look silly in them. We also had extended hands, which a lot of people skip for 40k builds but I think does a lot to keep you from looking ridiculous in a huge suit. Other general stuff, be careful with fiberglass for a project like this, the weight of it is one of the #1 concerns and fiberglass is loving heavy. For glowing eyes it can be done with UV lights and UV reactive contacts but you REALLY want to do your research to be sure that 1. the type of lights you get aren't harmful for your eyes and 2. the contacts and lights will work together properly. I tried to do it for Arthas this last summer but I didn't have time to really figure all that out and it just didn't work that well. At least the blue contacts still looked good.
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Sep 20, 2015 15:42
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Unibrow posted:Not sure if you have any more reference pics, but for the knuckle bow, it looks like I would probably grab some 1/2" EVA floor mat (anti fatigue mats at Harbor Freight or other hardware store) and cut it into this general shape: Hey, thanks for the detailed reply. Unfortunately, the EVA foam in my country is a bit out of my price range. Plus I already have foam board, though it's like half a centimetre thick. I've been looking online, and I think I might make the knuckle bow out of chicken wire and paper mache...? I'm not sure yet. Is it possible to paint the sword with acrylic and THEN put the resin finish on it? Could I even just skip the resin part altogether...? I don't think I have time to wait 3 days for it to dry, and more importantly, I don't really have a space to safely use the resin. Do you think I could use mod podge before painting instead of resin?
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Sep 20, 2015 20:54
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vivisecting posted:Hey, thanks for the detailed reply. Unfortunately, the EVA foam in my country is a bit out of my price range. Plus I already have foam board, though it's like half a centimetre thick. I've been looking online, and I think I might make the knuckle bow out of chicken wire and paper mache...? I'm not sure yet. Resin is not clear, so putting it on after the paint would change the color and isn't what you want. Mod podge will not be as hard or chip resistant as resin. Chicken wire and paper mache will probably not end up with a very smooth surface. If you're fine with that, go for it. You can fix that by coating/filling in with something, but if you don't have time for resin I'm not sure there's anything you will have time for that would help. If you already have foam board, you can probably use that in place of EVA foam by gluing several sheets together in a stack to get the height you need, although I'd definitely coat it in something before painting to make those seams less obvious.
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Sep 20, 2015 21:14
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legendof posted:Resin is not clear, so putting it on after the paint would change the color and isn't what you want. Mod podge will not be as hard or chip resistant as resin. Alright, then resin coat first! Is this something like what I'm looking for? The description sounds okay, but it might be too strong for foam board. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bondo-fibreglass-resin-0475807p.html#.Vf8Yst9VhBc
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Sep 20, 2015 21:38
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vivisecting posted:Hey, thanks for the detailed reply. Unfortunately, the EVA foam in my country is a bit out of my price range. Plus I already have foam board, though it's like half a centimetre thick. I've been looking online, and I think I might make the knuckle bow out of chicken wire and paper mache...? I'm not sure yet. What about a yoga mat instead of EVA?
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Sep 21, 2015 01:55
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Assuming you're in Canada, having linked Canadian Tire, there's a lot of resources for cheap EVA foam. 1) Dollarama. Has random packs of various sizes - currently, they have a 20-pack of 8.5x11 sheets, 2mm thick for $3. 2) Canadian Tire - Camping mats, anti-fatigue mats. 3) Michaels - they sell 6mm thick pieces, as well as 2mm thick, and have big rolls of 2mm in white.
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Sep 21, 2015 02:00
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Hey cosplay goons, I have a friend who wants to make a skull mask, sorta like the pokemon cubone. Something with a texture like this. Neither of us have much experience with this sort of craft, but I know you guys do. Where should she start? She wants to make it a bit larger/more fearsome than that, so it will need to be a light material.
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Sep 21, 2015 04:44
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TwystNeko posted:Assuming you're in Canada, having linked Canadian Tire, there's a lot of resources for cheap EVA foam. Oh, then I think this is just an issue of me not using the correct key-terms. Also, I wasn't aware that EVA foam has a smooth side as well as a bumpy side -- all the products I saw only showed the bumpy side and I decided I didn't want that. I've already made the blade and I'm pretty happy with it. I cut a rectangle for the dowel/pvc pipe/whatever then I gorilla-glued two pieces together (since the foam board was only a quarter of an inch thick). The knuckle bow is really what worries me... if possible, I'd really like a dome-shape near the blade like so: 
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Sep 21, 2015 05:54
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McPantserton posted:One of the guys I cosplay with did a GK suit back in 2011 but tbh it wasn't very good I can't find it right now but I think I know the one you mean. This guy pretty much encapsulates the level of detail I want to achieve regardless of time frame with lettering on the shoulder etc. but the idea is to run it with force swords utilising momentary switches to light up internals to a point where At the least some text lights up. If I could find a way to have the entire blade edge light up but keep it looking metallic. Maybe a super thin clear layer of something with hidden lighting in the handle, or a thin strip of EL wire or a diffuser along the edge of the blade just a few mm thick? 
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Sep 21, 2015 09:14
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vivisecting posted:Oh, then I think this is just an issue of me not using the correct key-terms. Also, I wasn't aware that EVA foam has a smooth side as well as a bumpy side -- all the products I saw only showed the bumpy side and I decided I didn't want that. I've already made the blade and I'm pretty happy with it. I cut a rectangle for the dowel/pvc pipe/whatever then I gorilla-glued two pieces together (since the foam board was only a quarter of an inch thick). The knuckle bow is really what worries me... if possible, I'd really like a dome-shape near the blade like so: Might be able to carve up a tupperware bowl or a plastic bowl to get the correct dome shape, and just glue it, and then hit it with some bondo or auto putty to get the seams filled. Depending on the size of it you might be able to carve it all out of something like a plastic flower watering can. Rose pommel would be the easiest part, just buy a porcelain one and make a mold and cast it.
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Sep 21, 2015 10:42
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Foodship9 posted:Hey cosplay goons, I would suggest something like celluclay. It is moldable, sandable, and very light weight when it dries. I used it to make this skull as a base for something, but you can see the texture without having sanded it. Your biggest challenge would probably be making whatever shape you need. You could maybe use a prefab base, chicken wire, foil, or expanding foam if you need some bulk.
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Sep 21, 2015 14:18
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Foodship9 posted:Hey cosplay goons, Paper mache seems the obvious and easiest choice. You can use foil to get the shape of your head right.
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Sep 21, 2015 14:26
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Just putting this out there as an alternative to using PVC pipe for sword blades or whatever else. Carbon kite spars are much lighter and stiffer. http://www.thekiteshoppe.com/categories/Spars-%7B47%7D-Rods-%7B47%7D-Tubes/Carbon-%252d-Pultruded-Tubes/ They stand up to abuse too. Way back when I was involved in LARPs (shut up), we used them to make foam weapons.
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Sep 21, 2015 16:33
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Funzo posted:They stand up to abuse too. Way back when I was involved in LARPs (shut up), we used them to make foam weapons. Me too! The only problem with these is that they may not support length as well as PVC, depending on what weight is involved. I noticed that longer weapons made with kitespar/made to be ultralight tended to get whippy.
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Sep 21, 2015 20:12
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my cat is norris posted:Me too! Depending on the thickness of whatever you're trying to make, you could probably just lash a few of them together, make it a bit more rigid.
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Sep 22, 2015 11:16
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An excellent point!
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Sep 23, 2015 03:24
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Funzo posted:Just putting this out there as an alternative to using PVC pipe for sword blades or whatever else. Carbon kite spars are much lighter and stiffer. We use pultruded fibreglass sections for work when making bridges and other civil engineering projects and it's super strong, carbon dependent on the weave used would be much stiffer and stronger
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Sep 23, 2015 04:32
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Can someone point me in the right direction where I can get some solid white, transparent material like felt that I can use for eyes?
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Sep 24, 2015 02:29
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Maxwells Demon posted:I have made a Henchman 24 outfit because I too can do the voice spot on as well. Be warned that an entire weekend of doing the voice is pretty rough on the throat. I suggest making sure you drink lots of fluids. I also keep removing clothing from the costume and nobody seems to care that it's not spot on as long as you have the goggles, wings, and voice. Yellow coroplast is your friend. Use two layers, if possible cut so the internal corrugations are at 90 degree angles for stiffness. Layer them with DAP or gorilla glue, then edge them with craft foam for the smooth look.
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Sep 24, 2015 03:06
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I've pretty much finished the dubstep gun. Yay! https://goo.gl/photos/1VErRkDPnuu6ce24A Now that it's done, I didn't realize just how big it was. Sadly, it's too big for me to be able to wear the deadmau5 head. Oh well, ridiculous outfit go!
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Sep 25, 2015 17:15
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TwystNeko posted:I've pretty much finished the dubstep gun. Yay! This is incredible and HILARIOUS! Well done! All purple outfit with gold accents and you're set.
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Sep 25, 2015 17:26
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