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Kaiho posted:I knew I shouldn't post on another forum about brewing. Nope.
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Sep 23, 2015 09:55
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Maybe, maaaaybe you could argue that with Irish moss/ some other flocculation agent and a lot of time you'd end up with such a small level of haze it wouldn't be noticeable. But that'd be a fair amount of cherry picking
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Sep 23, 2015 11:54
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In my limited experience... You can get clear beer without having clear wort, but having clearer wort sure as poo poo makes it easier to get clear beer. I forgot to add whirlfloc to my Festbier, but I did add gelatin in the keg. It's pretty clear now, but had I added whirlfloc I'm pretty sure it'd be brilliantly clear now.
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Sep 23, 2015 14:20
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You can get clear beer from cloudy wort. You can get clear beer without whirlfloc/Irish moss. hth
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Sep 23, 2015 15:43
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Kaiho posted:I... This can't be true can it? Well, you did say that you would end up with hazy beer, and you can certainly make clear beer out of cloudy wort. Of course, getting clear beer is easier with clear wort, but there are a bunch of factors and techniques so making definitive statements like both you and the other guy is doing is inaccurate. Speaking of cloudy beer: Is the hazy/cloudy/fruitbomb/smooth/high in chloride/oaty/english yeast IPA thing an actual trend now? I see that a bunch of the "experimental" breweries that made sours/saison such a huge deal are now doing them (Tired Hands, Hill Farmstead etc). thotsky fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 16:33
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Kaiho posted:I knew I shouldn't post on another forum about brewing. I found your problem. There are a lot of factors that go into clarity from how much you clean your wort, which yeast you use, if you use clarifying agents, and if you whirlpool. Are you more likely to have particulate matter from those kits? You bet. And that can certainly impact clarity, but thankfully it gets more complicated than just Y/N. Gives us more opportunity to screw up and/or fix things.
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Sep 23, 2015 16:37
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Biomute posted:Speaking of cloudy beer: Is the hazy/cloudy/fruitbomb/smooth/high in chloride/oaty/english yeast IPA thing an actual trend now? I see that a bunch of the "experimental" breweries that made sours/saison such a huge deal are now doing them (Tired Hands, Hill Farmstead etc). For Tired Hands it's not a "now doing them" scenario since that's how Jean has always made his beer. Their flagship IPA, HopHands, has always had a portion of oats in it. Jean has said in the past that he doesn't care about clarity at all.
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Sep 23, 2015 16:45
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Anecdotally, my cloudy IPAs have tasted better than my clear ones.
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Sep 23, 2015 16:50
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My house best bitter tastes better before it settles completely clear, too. It's not *bad* once it goes bright, but it's more flavorful with a little haze.
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Sep 23, 2015 17:17
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I put way too much wheat and oats and other grains in things to get clear beer very often. I also had issues with Chill haze with biab, but that seems to be resolved by doing a three vessel recirculating mash. Really clear beer is kind of a pain to get, especially when there are so many more important aspects to get down first... I would like fruit bomb IPA to become more popular, i prefer it to the piney ones and tend to brew them that way myself.
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Sep 23, 2015 17:30
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The guy from Brulosophy recently said on a podcast that he's actually been finding a trend that his beers without kettle finings are coming out clearer. He did however do a direct comparison batch and the one with Irish moss was marginally clearer, but he said they couldn't even tell it was clearer until the beer sat in the keg for a month and it failed the triangle test even after that month.
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Sep 23, 2015 17:44
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Has anyone had any experience using the bottle/growler fill off of a picnic tap keg method of a drilled stopper with some cut racking cane shoved into the picnic tap? If so, how well did it work and what size stoppers do you use for bottles and growlers? I've seen #2 for bottles and #6.5 for growlers... but I also have one of Stone's swing-top growlers and I'm not sure what size stopper it would use.
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Sep 23, 2015 18:04
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Does anyone have any good suggestions for tripel or quad recipes or at least what yeast to use? I plan on brewing 3 gallon batches of a tripel and quad in separate fermenter and making a huge yeast starter to split. I think I may even throw in some oak cubes and mix in some kriek with the quad to really make it crazy. Right now I'm leaning towards the chimay yeast but I might go with something a little more subtle so both beers don't just taste like bubblegum.
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Sep 23, 2015 18:48
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adebisi lives posted:Does anyone have any good suggestions for tripel or quad recipes or at least what yeast to use? I plan on brewing 3 gallon batches of a tripel and quad in separate fermenter and making a huge yeast starter to split. I think I may even throw in some oak cubes and mix in some kriek with the quad to really make it crazy. Right now I'm leaning towards the chimay yeast but I might go with something a little more subtle so both beers don't just taste like bubblegum. Choose either to go American (lots of specialty malts/dark crystals) or Traditional (lots of syrups). Check out the book "Brew Like A Monk" for examples of both. If you decide to go the syrup route you can also check out the recipes here http://www.candisyrup.com/recipes.html. The dude who writes them takes his cloning very seriously and you should be able to make use of them even if you go for another type of syrup. As for yeast, go with WLP500 (Chimay) , WLP540 (Rochefort) or WLP530 (Westmalle). The Chimay is the fruitiest, with the Westmalle being the least fruity. thotsky fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Sep 23, 2015 |
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Sep 23, 2015 19:04
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Going to be having the most beer I've ever had in carboys either this weekend or next weekend. As I'l have my lambic and cider still going and I need other beer on hand so I'm making another 10 gallons of beer. Going to have a total of four carboys and about 20 gallons of beer in my basement. Been loving this hobby. So what I will have fermenting will be Slightly Hopped Cider Raspberry Lambic Haus Pale Ale Some IPA
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Sep 23, 2015 19:21
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Tripel and/or Quad calls for Wyeast Trappist High Gravity all day every day, pretty sure that's the Westmalle strain it owns bones. Get good quality d90/d180 candi syrup for the quad too.
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Sep 23, 2015 22:05
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internet celebrity posted:It's mostly commercial strains that have trouble with hops, the wyeast and white labs strains are all pretty reserved in my experience. Dregs from breweries like Jolly Pumpkin and Wicked Weed will tear through drat near anything in 6-8 months though. My last sour was 25 IBU, 9.3% and soured up very nicely with the dregs I used. What Wicked Weed beers did you get dregs from? I live an hour from the brewery, but I've never seen dregs in the bottles I have purchased from them. Also, does anyone here have experience with Lactobacillus Brevis? Does it really drop the gravity as fast as Wyeast advertised in their De Bom blend? I'm looking to (as quickly as feasible) add some tartness to a beer I've been aging for 9 months already. I'm thinking adding some maltodextrin and L Brevis may be the way to go.
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Sep 23, 2015 22:07
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Acceptableloss posted:What Wicked Weed beers did you get dregs from? I live an hour from the brewery, but I've never seen dregs in the bottles I have purchased from them. All the sours are unfiltered so there'll be some amount of dregs in all the bottles. Some have more sediment than others and the longer they sit the more they settle out. Dump the last half inch or so of any bottle and you'll get some bacteria for sure. I just did a sour this Sunday and noticed my White Labs Belgian Sour Mix was only like a 1/4 of the tube so I drank 3 sours and dumped the dregs into the carboy that night, it was fermenting like crazy Monday morning.
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Sep 24, 2015 01:07
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Seconding Wyeast Trappist high grav (3787). Be prepared for krausen around half your beer volume if you treat it well I wouldn't bother spending too much on the paler syrups, but the dark ones are totally worth it
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Sep 24, 2015 02:39
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Nanpa posted:Seconding Wyeast Trappist high grav (3787). Be prepared for krausen around half your beer volume if you treat it well This is good advice. 3787/wlp530 likes a gradual ramp up in temp and keep it warm to let it finish. It goes fast and hard but can take a while for the last few points of gravity. It can stall if you cool it too early, but otherwise it is pretty easy to work with. It is kinda scary when it is going full bore. I was worried my blow off tube would clog and the carboy explode... If it stalls it is super hard to get going again. I only bother to buy the d180 Candi syrup. Otherwise I'll use table sugar. The d180 is really amazing. I've tried to make my own and it seems to not work as well.
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Sep 24, 2015 03:21
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adebisi lives posted:Does anyone have any good suggestions for tripel or quad recipes or at least what yeast to use? I plan on brewing 3 gallon batches of a tripel and quad in separate fermenter and making a huge yeast starter to split. I think I may even throw in some oak cubes and mix in some kriek with the quad to really make it crazy. Right now I'm leaning towards the chimay yeast but I might go with something a little more subtle so both beers don't just taste like bubblegum. My best recommendation is candi syrup or sugar. Look on their website for some solid clone recipes for both triples and quads
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Sep 24, 2015 05:25
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Der Penguingott posted:This is good advice. I've used the d180 it's quite good
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Sep 24, 2015 05:28
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Scarf posted:Has anyone had any experience using the bottle/growler fill off of a picnic tap keg method of a drilled stopper with some cut racking cane shoved into the picnic tap? I don't do it exactly that way, but fairly similarly. I have an adapter for my perlick faucets that has about a foot of tubing coming off of it. That tubing fits a bottle filler which I have a #2 stopper on. It works pretty drat well. I don't have a stopper for my growlers, I just use the same bottle filler but go nice and slow and they come out fine. I also recommend chilling the bottles for a bit before filling, it'll help reduce the chance of foaming due to temp change. Between a good rinse, a star san spray and the chilling, and using the bottle filler I have, I've had perfectly carbonated bottles every time.
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Sep 24, 2015 06:21
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rockcity posted:I don't do it exactly that way, but fairly similarly. I have an adapter for my perlick faucets that has about a foot of tubing coming off of it. That tubing fits a bottle filler which I have a #2 stopper on. It works pretty drat well. I don't have a stopper for my growlers, I just use the same bottle filler but go nice and slow and they come out fine. I also recommend chilling the bottles for a bit before filling, it'll help reduce the chance of foaming due to temp change. Between a good rinse, a star san spray and the chilling, and using the bottle filler I have, I've had perfectly carbonated bottles every time. Word. I really need to get to building a collar and putting in some actual perlick taps. I'm kind of over the picnic tap poo poo.
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Sep 24, 2015 13:40
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I read the OP but didn't see anything on this question specifically - anyone have recommendations or a good reference on liquid yeasts? I particularly want to try one that'll give a nice, dry finish to mead. I know that ec-1138/ec-1118 are supposed to be basically champagne yeast, and that should get me where I want to go, but that's about where my knowledge ends. I want something that'll let me keep more of the aroma and flavor of the honey and any fruit I add, and I also want to experiment with different methods.  The Pasteur champagne yeast I used on my latest batch got the mead dry, but I feel like it lacks some character. Also, just how long does it take for that poo poo to go clear? My mead is so cloudy. I tried pectinase on the last batch and it's still not clear. Tastes and smells fine, though.
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Sep 24, 2015 13:42
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Scarf posted:Word. I really need to get to building a collar and putting in some actual perlick taps. I'm kind of over the picnic tap poo poo. Ditto that. I've got 5 taps that I would need to buy. I want to go quality, but $40/tap (Perlick stainless taps) + the expense of the shanks and handles is a little over my budget right now (putting new floors in at the house). Thinking I might save some expense by buying the chrome plated perlicks instead. http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843163.htm
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Sep 24, 2015 13:47
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After a lot of frustration, I got the lid on my keezer. I bought the 7.1cuft chest freezer from Lowe's for about $200 and my collar is 2x6, but this caused a problem I didn't realize until I went to put the lid on, maybe I can save someone some trouble: The bottom side of the lid has a hard plastic piece that angles in to make a better seal/insulate better, but this will just BARELY ride up against the wood. I ended up having to (sloppily) cut a bevel on the edges with a sawzall to get it to fit correctly, since I didn't realize the problem until it was already finished, painted, and glued down. I'm 80% done now - need to get my regulator finished, install the Inkbird, buy the liquid side tubing and hose clamps, clean the lines, and I"m ready to fill.
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Sep 24, 2015 13:47
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robotsinmyhead posted:After a lot of frustration, I got the lid on my keezer. I bought the 7.1cuft chest freezer from Lowe's for about $200 and my collar is 2x6, but this caused a problem I didn't realize until I went to put the lid on, maybe I can save someone some trouble: I came up with a clever fix for that problem. I glued/screwed a 1x2 on top of my 10x2 just a little bit outside of where that happened. It gave my keezer a little bit of dimension and it made it to where I didn't have to buy some kind of weird saw to get to to fit right and/or have crappy edges on the inside.
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Sep 24, 2015 15:58
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That would have been a much more elegant solution. I made an absolute dogshit-mess of the inside lip with the saw, though thankfully, the outside still looks nice.
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Sep 24, 2015 16:08
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RedTonic posted:I read the OP but didn't see anything on this question specifically - anyone have recommendations or a good reference on liquid yeasts? I particularly want to try one that'll give a nice, dry finish to mead. I know that ec-1138/ec-1118 are supposed to be basically champagne yeast, and that should get me where I want to go, but that's about where my knowledge ends. I want something that'll let me keep more of the aroma and flavor of the honey and any fruit I add, and I also want to experiment with different methods. Wyeast makes a Dry Mead culture (4632) which ought to be plenty good, although I have not used it. White Labs doesn't have a Dry mead culture specifically, but it seems like they assume the default culture for dry meads is their Pasteur Champagne (715) culture. In my very limited experience with meads, I've always used Lalvin D-47 (Côtes-du-Rhône), which gives good honey flavor and aroma but has not finished dry - but that might just be because I've made high-gravity musts (3 pounds of honey per gallon of finished must). If I understand correctly, using less honey will make a dryer mead, as will using appropriate nutrients. I sort of follow this white paper about meadmaking for my batches. As to clarity, mead does take a long time to settle really clear. I have an avocado mead that's been in the fermenter for about four months. It's getting pretty clear, but I don't expect to bottle it until January/February. I really figure that meads, as I have been making them, start to get really drinkable around 12 months, and I haven't managed to keep them around long enough to see how long it takes for them to peak and start to degrade. Since honey is nutrient-poor, using added nutrients is pretty much required to get healthy ferments, and will get you dryer finishes, better overall flavor, shorter ferments, and faster clearing.
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Sep 24, 2015 17:00
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Whoa, cool! Thank you for the link and info. I haven't been using yeast nutrient; figured the added fruits and spices would be enough, but maybe not. Probably too late to start with this batch, but I'll give that a shot on #3!
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Sep 24, 2015 18:39
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RedTonic posted:Whoa, cool! Thank you for the link and info. I think fruits can help, but may not be a complete solution, depending on how much you're using, etc. My meads have been all-honey, though, so I don't have any direct experience in that direction. You might want to look at Ken Schramm's The Compleat Meadmaker as well, if you don't already have it. And welcome to the thread! There are loads of good, knowledgeable people here, including other meadmakers. Feel free to poke around, ask question, post updates, and so on. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Sep 24, 2015 |
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Sep 24, 2015 18:51
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LaserWash posted:Ditto that. I've got 5 taps that I would need to buy. I want to go quality, but $40/tap (Perlick stainless taps) + the expense of the shanks and handles is a little over my budget right now (putting new floors in at the house). Scarf posted:Word. I really need to get to building a collar and putting in some actual perlick taps. I'm kind of over the picnic tap poo poo. It's all well and good until the chest freezer packs it in  my new bar will be built to a certain size and I plan on buying a new chest freezer and just running lines through the lid.  This is my bar design. Can't remember if I've posted it but it'll go on top of a nice spotted gum bar. Gonna stain it then sand my two beer engines back to restain to match the bar :3 I'm drinking my first batch of quadrupel. gently caress me it's incredible. It's essentially a Westvleteren XII clone from candi syrup but fermented with the yeast bay's northeastern abbey. I think if I did it again it would be with the rochefort strain (530) but it's a solid enjoyable beer. Rich plum and dark fruits and some caramelised sugar. Incredible. And after half a 740ml bottle I'm starting to feel a touch tipsy at 11% ABV
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Sep 25, 2015 11:39
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First of the 5 barrel [180 US gallon] open top fermenters turned up, now just to piece it together   It use to be an open top milk fermenting tank but converted it and welding together on the outside a cooling jacket etc, alot cheaper for a start up then spending £2,000 - 5,000 on the posh staining steel conicals McSpergin posted:It's all well and good until the chest freezer packs it in I thought of this instead of doing a collar but then I got worried about loving up the lid How do you plan on doing it through the lid, just a small pipe hole etc? Is there types of chest freezers I should avoid if was to drill through the lid? Fluo fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 12:09
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Fluo posted:First of the 5 barrel [180 US gallon] open top fermenters turned up, now just to piece it together Are you just going to weld a tube into the bottom and attach a butterfly valve? And a removable standpipe on the inside? I used to work with open FVs. The absolute key is to have monstrously healthy yeast and avoid fruit/bar flies like the plague.
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Sep 25, 2015 14:25
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Went to keg a beer and discovered my plastic Better Bottle had cracked, after what had to be less than 10 uses. I mostly use buckets but occasionally want the carboy - Should I just buy a glass one or do the new big mouth blubbers (or something else?) do a nice job? I somewhat fear giant glass shards if I drop the thing...
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Sep 25, 2015 17:42
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Just go with plastic, only time I think glass is worth it is if you are aging a beer for a long time.
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Sep 25, 2015 17:59
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I stopped using glass carboys and went back to buckets for a few years after I dropped a carboy full of wort. Like you, I found the shards of glass unsettling. Since then, I've gone to Better Bottles and (non-Bigmouth) Bubblers, and I have had zero issues with them. If I were buying carboys today, I'd go for the Bigmouth Bubblers because they are narrower and taller than the other kind, and that would solve a space issue for me. Where did yours crack? Did you lose the batch?
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Sep 25, 2015 18:02
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Right smack in the middle of the flat ring around the bottom, not near any bends or seams or anything like that. About a 4 inch long crack showed up, but fortunately no I didn't loose it. Must have happened a week ago when I moved it to cold crash, but that was a pretty gentle move so who knows...
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Sep 25, 2015 18:39
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Oh poo poo you just reminded me I have a better bottle soaking
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Sep 25, 2015 19:18
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