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xergm posted:So my GS500 started leaking gas everywhere last night. It's a steady drip that's making its way from (as far as I can tell) somewhere above the carbs and running down the engine case to my garage floor. One of the fuel lines in my SV650 just randomly decided today was the day and started pissing fuel everywhere when I started it up. Replaced the line and it's been fine since, so it's definitely a thing that happens.
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Sep 24, 2015 20:53
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Rear sprocket is buggered and ordered a new front / rear sprocket. I was going to order a new o ring chain but I'd rather pick it up locally so I can do the chain and sprockets tomorrow. What's a decent price for a standard 520 o-ring chain? Found one for $75 close to the house, which seems a little high, but eBay is all over the place. Cycle gear only had crazy xring chains that were well over $100. I have the motion pro chain tool.
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Sep 24, 2015 21:06
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I've seen a rusted-through tank, a split fuel line, and a leaky petcock all cause your symptom.
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Sep 24, 2015 21:25
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Thanks, I'll definitely pull the tank off and check. The real kicker is that it seemed fine when I left work. I filled up my tank (which is all now dripping into a bucket  ) and rode to the dentist for my appointment.One of those things must've crapped out on the highway because when I left the dentist, I could smell some gas and it had a little bit of a rougher idle. I imagine is was getting less fuel. It wasn't until I got home that my fiance noted that the gas smell was really strong and I checked to see what was up.
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Sep 24, 2015 22:15
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Rear sprocket is buggered and ordered a new front / rear sprocket. I was going to order a new o ring chain but I'd rather pick it up locally so I can do the chain and sprockets tomorrow. Seems like $50-80 on amazon.
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Sep 24, 2015 22:30
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M. Night Skymall posted:One of the fuel lines in my SV650 just randomly decided today was the day and started pissing fuel everywhere when I started it up. Replaced the line and it's been fine since, so it's definitely a thing that happens. ~*suzuki thangs*~
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Sep 24, 2015 23:20
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I finally found time to get to this. I tested my voltage over the battery while the bike was idling and it was right around 13.5v. I revved the engine to ~7k rpm and was getting around 12v. I've (mostly) followed this guide: https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf I used this video to test my RR: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDx3zgOLShY My RR doesn't have wires coming out of it, but instead just has male pins. One of these dealios:  The positive diode board on my RR was all good, with no readings in the correct orientation and a reading of 525 when I reversed the bias. It was also correct on the negative diode board in the proper direction, though when I reversed the bias one of the connections came up at 440 instead of 525. I guess one particular pathway on the negative board is not in the greatest shape, but I don't know if that's enough to mean the whole thing is shot? With the bike jumped and idling, the battery reads 12.00 or so across the terminals. When I rev the engine, I can't get it above 12.07. (All of that is with the cables still hooked up to the car, for what it matters.) I managed to find the stator wires and tested across the 3 paths, and they were all the same reading. Given what I've told you here about the RR, the battery voltage, and the stator, is it obvious to you guys one of these pieces is broken? Or do I should I take it to a shop and let them diagnose it?
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Sep 25, 2015 00:05
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I added a little gas before I took the tank off since the leaking had stopped when I got home, but now the airbox drain has gas dripping. It looks a little dirty like it has some oil in it. I got the tank off, and the leak is definitely not coming coming from there nor one of the hoses. Started it up just using the remaining gas in the lines, and it's just throwing smoke now. Only 9 miles over 15000, and the gremlins have appeared.  Edit: Just pulled the air filter, found about an inch of oily gas in the airbox. Just siphoned it out. xergm fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 00:30
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Your float valve isn't working right and the vacuum petcock leaks.
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Sep 25, 2015 00:48
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I checked the float height, and it was about the right level, so maybe it's just the petcock. From what I can tell, the symptoms are about the same as leaving the petcock on PRI. I guess I have a project for the next few weeks.
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Sep 25, 2015 01:02
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm rapidly approaching my limit on dealing with the problem. Before I just haul it over to the shop and let them deal with it, I'm going to toss a few things out there and see if anyone has any insight. I've been using that guide as much as I can, but I haven't had any luck. Probably partly because I'm not even sure I'm doing it all correctly. Either your RR or your stator are hosed (or both!). You still haven't tested the stator wires correctly, you need to have the bike running, set the meter to ac voltage and test the wires one by one to see if all three coils are punching out the same voltage (you need enough battery charge for the bike to run off the battery alone for a few minutes in order to do this). Probability rests with the RR, and they're cheap to replace so I'd start there if you aren't confident testing the stator. Don't test the system with it still hooked up to the car jfc. xergm posted:I checked the float height, and it was about the right level, so maybe it's just the petcock. Leaving the petcock on prime doesn't (read: shouldn't) have any 'symptoms', lots of bikes run direct feed taps with no vacuum switching and nothing ever leaks out.
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Sep 25, 2015 01:25
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Slavvy posted:Either your RR or your stator are hosed (or both!). You still haven't tested the stator wires correctly, you need to have the bike running, set the meter to ac voltage and test the wires one by one to see if all three coils are punching out the same voltage (you need enough battery charge for the bike to run off the battery alone for a few minutes in order to do this). Probability rests with the RR, and they're cheap to replace so I'd start there if you aren't confident testing the stator. I'm not entirely sure HOW to test the stator wires with the bike running though. I've taken a lovely night-time photo here to try and point out that this thing is absolutely buried:  I can't get my multimeter prods in there, as the angle is too awkward, and it doesn't appear that I could approach it from the top either. It almost looks as if I'd have to shove wires into each hole and run them out to where I could reach them.
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Sep 25, 2015 03:19
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I hope you didn't test this with a *running* car. The cars alternator will fight the rectifier and win. If your stator is passing the resitance block test and your voltage from the stator doesnt. welp. Check stator voltage at ~4500rpm. at idle you probably won't have much over ~20-30v. at 4500 or so you should see ~double that. I've had a few beers, I might come back to edit this later.
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Sep 25, 2015 03:49
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I will stop testing the system with the car hooked up asap. This may necessitate taking a concrete pill and removing the seat to be able to get at that connector. cursedshitbox posted:I hope you didn't test this with a *running* car. The cars alternator will fight the rectifier and win. Also a valid, albeit sentence-mangling method.
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Sep 25, 2015 04:21
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Ola posted:Copper grease between the I don't have copper grease. Can I use universal grease as a replacement?
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Sep 25, 2015 09:46
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I don't think so, the grease needs to cope with high temps.
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Sep 25, 2015 10:48
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Ended up just ordering a new RK o-ring chain off amazon for $70. I called 4 shops and I got quotes around the $150 mark, so waiting a few days to save $80 is worth it. Most shops carried no names and still wanted $100. This one comes with a clip style master link, but I think I should be fine. Especially considering it's an older i4, doesn't make a lot of torque and I take care of my chain regularly. Edit: added a subject so people don't have to recall my older post. XYLOPAGUS fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 15:19
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The Wonder Weapon posted:
Slow down. Take a deep breath. Don't think so hard. You're clearly over-thinking this and confusing yourself. It's cool that you're unfamiliar with the bike, we've all been there. This is the perfect opportunity to learn a LOT about it with relative ease if you slow down and take it all in. Please read this post carefully: I hate to be the one to tell you this, but some dis-assembly is required. Test the stator: 1) Unplug the stator check the connectors. make sure none of them are toasted. Remove things that are in your way. You want to be able to work with ease with plenty of space. That's a fairly uncomplicated bike with not a lot of bullshit in the way to begin with. It'll go back together relatively easy. 2) You need to pull the stator cover off your bike and check the stator itself. Test each wire at the plug to ground. (positive lead on stator wire, negative on bolt that attaches stator to cover.) Go ahead and order the replacement stator cover gasket now and buy some RTV. You're probably going to need it. Set your multimeter to resistance (OHMs). There should be NO CONTINUITY between the wire at the plug and the bolt that attaches the stator to the cover. If there is, then your stator is hosed. Take a picture of your reading and post it back up here please. 3) Test the stator leads between themselves. Test resistance (OHMs) between each of the 3 yellow stator wires, A, B, and C. Resistance between yellow wire A at the plug, to yellow wire B at the plug should be > 0 Resistance between yellow wire A at the plug, to yellow wire C at the plug should be > 0 Resistance between yellow wire B at the plug, to yellow wire C at the plug should be > 0 If it passes all the above tests, it's pretty safe to say your stator is alright. Test current at the battery. MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED BEFORE DOING THIS. SHOULD BE OVER 12V WITH BIKE OFF (approx 12.3-12.6V) Test voltage between the battery terminals. If you rev the bike to ~5k and your voltage isn't around 13-14V then you have a problem. That problem is most likely your rectifier. Buy a new one. Testing the stator and reg/rec while the bike is running is difficult and requires tapping wires. Given the tests above you can pretty much assume the problem. If you want to be completely certain before you drop that $50 on a reg/rec though, you can tap the output wires from the stator to the reg/rec and measure current. Amperage across all 3 wires should be the same. To test the Stator Voltage 1) disconnect the plug going to regulator 2) Set voltmeter to AC 3) Attach probes to yellow wires (make sure they don't touch each-other otherwise you will short the stator. I suggest wrapping with electrical tape) 4) Start the bike 5) Reading should be 20v or higher depending on RPM. I suggest keep same RPM and test all 3 wires to see if their output is the same.If any wires put out significantly less output then others then you have failed unit. By process of elimination, if the stator has passed all the above tests, then you can assume your Reg/Rec is toast. If you REALLY NEEEEEEEEEEED to test your Reg/Rec separately (you realize that your stator is toast) then here: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf If it makes you feel any better. I'm about to have to do all of this on my VFR800 (for the 3rd time)  Slavvy posted:This may necessitate taking a concrete pill and removing the seat to be able to get at that connector. I kept my registration under my seat so any time I got pulled over I'd have to pop the tail plastics off and unbolt the seat. Takes literally less than 2 minutes to get the seat off. KARMA! posted:I don't have copper grease. Can I use universal grease as a replacement? no, it'll probably melt and run onto the pads. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Sep 25, 2015 |
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Sep 25, 2015 16:16
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:no, it'll probably melt and run onto the pads. That *would* fix the noise problem though. Possibly permanently.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:39
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goddamnedtwisto posted:That *would* fix the noise problem though. Possibly permanently. It'll also create a new problem of finding a decent casket.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:37
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:If it makes you feel any better. I'm about to have to do all of this on my VFR800 (for the 3rd time) Just in case you weren't thinking to do this (and to anyone who might have to do the same sometime), you're going to want to replace a good 2-3 inches at least, more of you can and have the access, of that wiring harness. Get good moisture sealed splices and splice in brand new wire before terminating in a new connector. Stagger the splices. That wire is hosed, and will present a high resistance that will cook any new connector put on just like the last one.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:45
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KARMA! posted:I don't have copper grease. Can I use universal grease as a replacement? I've used some normal lithium grease on squeaking brakes when I didn't have anything different and I didn't die. Actually, it worked just fine. However now I use ceramic grease for that, can't tell you its merits vs copper grease tho.
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Sep 25, 2015 18:54
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Linedance posted:Just in case you weren't thinking to do this (and to anyone who might have to do the same sometime), you're going to want to replace a good 2-3 inches at least, more of you can and have the access, of that wiring harness. Get good moisture sealed splices and splice in brand new wire before terminating in a new connector. Stagger the splices. That wire is hosed, and will present a high resistance that will cook any new connector put on just like the last one. I'm replacing everything, entire stator wires and most of the reg/rec wires (if not the whole drat thing. Weatherpack connectors, just like the last VFR. Which, to my knowledge, has not failed yet. The vfr connectors are notoriously bad. There are good kits available to replace the bullshit though http://www.wiremybike.com/vfr-specific-parts-1998-1999-vfr-parts-c-1_8.html http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures http://roadstercycle.com/ You can even swap out Yamaha reg/rec for the lovely stock one. http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/30845-Making-Yamaha-R1-Regulator-work-for-5th-Gen-VFR-How-To I have the "upgraded part" which is at least a little better...
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Sep 25, 2015 21:23
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm replacing everything, entire stator wires and most of the reg/rec wires (if not the whole drat thing. Yeah, that's what I did essentially on my old vfr. It had the Yamaha upgrade, mounted to the subframe with thermal paste as a heatsink and a little pc fan for it. Goddamn did that subframe get hot. It still cooked the starter relay base. I spliced a whole new stator and charging harness in. Never gave a problem with it again to my knowledge. Now... The one ground lug I neglected to reattach... That was a bit of a headache for the next owner (my buddy, so we laughed about it over some beers).
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Sep 26, 2015 03:00
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A couple weeks ago, I picked up an 01 CBR 600 F4i that had spent a few years sitting in my friend's back yard. Did the fluids, changed the gas, etc etc...bike won't start because the drat fuel pump won't prime. What happens when I switch it on is that the relay kicks on for a few seconds, then switches off, but nothing happens in the pump. Voltage on the tip that gets opened/closed by the relay is normal when it's closed, the voltage on the second tip is a few volts low. I've checked the sensors and everything is good. Tried jumping with a car battery to no avail. I'd like to exhaust all options before I start throwing money at parts. Thoughts? Side note: this is apparently not that uncommon on these.
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Sep 26, 2015 03:32
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So this happened; Speedo cable has completely come out of the front wheel, but the head is completely stuck on the thread at an angle so I can't unscrew it off, and even using pliers just causes the whole drive to twist out and I don't have tools good enough to hold onto both to separate them. Could I get away with plugging the cable back in and JB Welding the head and the outer metal sheath of the cable together as best I can?
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Sep 26, 2015 12:16
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redscare posted:Thoughts? What's the common fix? And when you say the second tip is a few volts low, is that one of the two tips that give power to the pump or is the second tip the receiving side of the relay? A standard relay will have four terminals all together, two to receive control voltage and two to give operating voltage to the pump - is that one different? Super Slash posted:
Short answer, yes. Longer answer, maaaybe. Responsible answer, buy a used speedo drive on a eBay and a new OEM cable.
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Sep 26, 2015 14:27
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I swapped out my fork oil and replaced the seals (had a leaky one) and now the suspension bottoms out very easily. I made sure to pay attention to how all the innards came out and put them back in the same way. It calls for 5wt fork oil, and that's what I used. The spring was put back at the right orientation. I measured the correct level of oil and used the level gauge to even both sides out, then made sure there was no air in the fork. I'm assuming I did something wrong, but can't figure out what it is. Why would it suddenly bottom out so easily?
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Sep 26, 2015 15:24
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Viscosity in fork oil is widely variant: http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycles/fork-oil.html That could explain it. Super Slash posted:So this happened; Does it have a lock screw on it? Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Sep 26, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 15:26
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Z3n posted:Does it have a lock screw on it? Nope, the cap has come off the cable and wedged tight on the speedo drive, and I don't have good enough pliers to hold onto both parts to twist away from each other.  I've pasted some weld on it to at least keep it together, suppose I can either get a shop to separate them or; Ola posted:buy a used speedo drive on a eBay and a new OEM cable. 
Super Slash fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Sep 26, 2015 |
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Sep 26, 2015 16:07
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Using only a front paddockstand is a really bad idea. While removing my front wheel my bike partially popped off the stand, thankfully not falling over or crushing my limbs, causing it to rest on only one fork. I use one of those stands that lock in the recesses under the 2 forks and lift it up. Because I couldn't immediately lift the bike up with my puppy power I let it rest on the single fork for a day so I could get some lifting help. The result is that my steering is now slightly borked. It's especially noticable when making slight adjustments in steering while riding. My question is, what's the most probable cause of the iffy steering? I'm guessing its my steering stem bearing that might have been exposed to some force when it popped off the stand. Or have I royally hosed up my front suspension with this stunt?
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Sep 26, 2015 17:48
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Have you tried unloading the front end, loosening the upper and lower clams and aligning the handle bars and front wheel?
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Sep 26, 2015 22:00
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Boys who love boys
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Ola posted:What's the common fix? And when you say the second tip is a few volts low, is that one of the two tips that give power to the pump or is the second tip the receiving side of the relay? A standard relay will have four terminals all together, two to receive control voltage and two to give operating voltage to the pump - is that one different? There is none since the causes are multiple. And its one of the two tips that give power to the pump that is low, not the relay power wires. The voltage drops at the fuel pump connector, so it may be that. I'm just trying to exhaust all possibilities besides "its the relay" and "its the fuel pump" although I'm increasingly convinced its the fuel pump.
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Sep 27, 2015 03:47
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Does anyone have any strong feelings about the Triumph Tiger 1050? I've got my eye on one, and if things shake out right it might be my next bike. I put a couple hundred miles on the 800 Tiger and I absolutely loved it. With the 1050 my concerns would mainly be how dependable it is and if there are any kinks an owner should be on the lookout for. I'm phoneposting, but when I get home I can put up a link to the craigslist ad.
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Sep 27, 2015 13:17
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Slow down. Take a deep breath. Don't think so hard. You're clearly over-thinking this and confusing yourself. Before diving into this, I figured I'd check the battery. It shouldn't be the battery since it's brand new this season, but now I'm thinking it may be. I trickle charged it for ~6 hours. When I took it off, the voltage on the battery off the bike was 12.8v or so. After putting it into the bike, without even starting it, the standing voltage was 11.8. As soon as I tried to start the bike I could tell it wasn't getting the juice it needed. After maybe a combined 10s of trying to start the bike, the starter just stopped attempting to fire, and the voltage over the battery (with the bike still off) was now in the 9v range. That's got to be the battery, right? A fully charged battery should provide way more power than that?
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Sep 27, 2015 21:24
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Dumb oil question ahoy Just picked up a NOS 2010 Sym Symba and I'm not sure what exactly to do with what I can only assume is the factory fill. It's a 5 year old bike with 0 miles on it, but it's also a Honda inspired, horizontal single cylinder... so...  I'm open to suggestions. I was just going to run it for 200 miles and drop in whatever 10W40 motorcycle oil Autozone has.
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Sep 27, 2015 23:30
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Phone posted:Dumb oil question ahoy Shell Rotella T is cheaper. I think it comes in 15w40 and 5w30 flavors.
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Sep 28, 2015 00:11
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It has a centrifugal clutch; it's a semi-auto 4-speed. Need to play nice with the clutches.
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Sep 28, 2015 00:21
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Phone posted:It has a centrifugal clutch; it's a semi-auto 4-speed. Need to play nice with the clutches. Rotella is fine in a GY6 clone.
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Sep 28, 2015 00:27
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Rotella HD oils don't have friction modifiers.
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Sep 28, 2015 00:50
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