|
DNK posted:I've used cFosSpeed in the past and noticed an immediate, huge improvement in ping times. It works best if you have one huge throughput machine rather than many equal throughput devices. I'm a huge fan on Cfosspeed. Back when i had a 3mb connection it really helped. With a 50.. not as much unless everything is maxed out. It does work well though.
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2015 19:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 01:49 |
|
|
I need a new 2.4Ghz router with gigabit wired ports, will a Asus RT-N56 do the job? Is there any advantage to the 66 if I'm not using it for large file transfers etc? Only difference looks to be 300 vs 450Mbps Can't do 5Ghz properly due to internal brick walls.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 03:13
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Speaking of Ubiquity, how is their routing stuff? I'm kind of preplanning some home networking stuff, and noticed they put out a lot of decent stuff. Might get their cameras and NVR as well. Anyone have experience with it? I got my Ubiquiti USG first and replaced the OpenWRT netgear I was using for routing with the USG and a Monoprice GigE dumb switch. Took five minutes to set up. Interface is awesome although I do wish you didn't need the controller running somewhere else to make changes via the web admin. Soon I'll be running it off of a NAS, but for now it's just on my Mac. It's only been a few days but no issues so far. DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Sep 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 07:49
|
|
|
VodeAndreas posted:I need a new 2.4Ghz router with gigabit wired ports, will a Asus RT-N56 do the job? Is there any advantage to the 66 if I'm not using it for large file transfers etc? Only difference looks to be 300 vs 450Mbps Other than the wifi speed the RT-N56 and RT-N66 are pretty much the same. If you don't need that extra speed then there is no reason to spend the extra money on the RT-N66.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 15:44
|
|
|
Decided to take the plunge and order an Edgerouter X SFP and a UAP. Was going to get the UAP-AC-Lite, but those don't seem to be available until December. I'll probably pick one up then and run the UAP upstairs at that point. If I'm fairly comfortable with setting up Tomato, am I going to be semi-comfortable with Ubiquiti's stuff? Or is it far more complicated?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
I have only used their UAPs and Toughswitches myself and they are very easy to configure. I imagine the EdgerouterX will be similarly easy to figure out. All of their stuff has a nice well polished GUI. If you have a good grasp of basic networking concepts you shouldn't have any trouble. Some of the settings, like vlans, might be unfamiliar to you but vlans are not needed on a normal home network anyway. The controller for the UAPs is a java app that runs locally on your machine. This has its pros and cons but I really like it. The biggest con is that most people are used to logging into their APs directly with a web browser. With the controller your are logging into a webpage hosted on your local PC and making the changes from there. Its really cool but it can take some getting used to. To be fair, this is also how pretty much all other enterprise grade APs work. The other con is that its Java, and I greatly dislike Java for a number of reasons. On the plus side, its Java, so it runs on anything, Windows, OSX, Linux, ect... If you set the controller to run as a service then you can manage your APs easily from any PC on your network or even remotely. It also means that managing 2, 3, 10, or 10,000 APs is no different than managing one AP. You can login to the APs directly via SSH if you want as they actually run Linux, but I have never needed to do that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 21:46
|
|
|
So my poo poo wireless router is dying, constant disconnects while the modem is fine. I was looking at the Archer C7 and figure it would be the best choice. Does the bandwidth control on it actually work? Being able to set a hard limit on a guest network when so many people come visit would be very useful.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2015 21:48
|
|
|
Cao Ni Ma posted:So my poo poo wireless router is dying, constant disconnects while the modem is fine. I was looking at the Archer C7 and figure it would be the best choice. Does the bandwidth control on it actually work? Being able to set a hard limit on a guest network when so many people come visit would be very useful. Unless you must have wireless AC at top speeds etc, get a Mikrotik. Compared to TPlink stuff, there is no comparison.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 15:14
|
|
|
I think most people prefer routers with stable firmware updates and features that work. Doing the microtik firmware dance is a little beyond your average home user. Similarly I don't recommend edgerouters for most home users unless they feel like learning some rudimentary networking or want to follow CLI tutorials off the web.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 19:41
|
|
|
I can't think of anything I'd rather do less in 2015 than to download a loving Java app to configure a networking device.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 19:43
|
|
|
Bumping to find an earlier post
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 20:32
|
|
|
CrazyLittle posted:I think most people prefer routers with stable firmware updates and features that work. Doing the microtik firmware dance is a little beyond your average home user. Similarly I don't recommend edgerouters for most home users unless they feel like learning some rudimentary networking or want to follow CLI tutorials off the web. To be fair, you can choose an update channel for firmware upgrades within the MikroTik. It can be bug-fix only, current, etc. It's also a one-click upgrade through Winbox's QuickSet menu. More importantly, you don't need to constantly update firmware revisions. As long as it's stable and all features you need are functional, then you're done. Just configure to your liking and it churns away doing its one and only job (routing.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2015 20:50
|
|
|
So I have a question about my own home network. My setup: SMC cable modem TP-Link Archer C5 v2 router ancient US Robotics 16 port gigabit switch (2) HDHomeRun Primes (both are on static DHCP leases) Nest thermostat Wireless printer Plus the expected patch panel and wiring. Anytime the power goes out, the switch is the first thing to come up - and since every PC is wired (and not only on a UPS, but also configured to power back on after a power failure), they're immediately trying to pull IPs as soon as they see the link come up. The router takes a good minute or so before DHCP starts working, and it takes almost as long for the modem itself to come up. Nothing is plugged into the router except for the cable modem (to WAN) and the switch (port 1). So because of this, most of the PCs wind up with APIPA addresses. Generally it's easiest to just power off the router and switch, power up the router, wait for it to come up fully, then plug the switch back in - then everything gets proper DHCP IPs. Otherwise I have to run around and do an ipconfig release/renew. What's the easiest way around this? I know adding a UPS to the networking gear is an obvious solution, but only works if the power isn't out for long (also not money I want to spend right now). Is there any way to, say, force the switch to not power up for a minute, or maybe some kind of DHCP setting I can enable to force everything to keep trying to pull an IP until it gets a valid IP? I'd rather not do static IPs unless it's a static DHCP lease, simply because of the number of devices in the house (between wired and wireless we're sitting at about 20 devices). Or hell, maybe some kind of startup script I can run on the PCs to force them to try and pull a new IP if they don't have a valid NAT IP? Everything is Windows 7 or newer. Cao Ni Ma posted:So my poo poo wireless router is dying, constant disconnects while the modem is fine. I was looking at the Archer C7 and figure it would be the best choice. Does the bandwidth control on it actually work? Being able to set a hard limit on a guest network when so many people come visit would be very useful. FWIW, I have the Archer C5 (v2). There's a little bit of, to best describe it, poorly translated portions of the firmware, but it's been a very solid router. The firmware UI should be close, if not identical. I got it simply because it was the cheapest router at Fry's that had all gigabit ports + gigabit uplink. I haven't tried the bandwidth control yet, but everything else has been rock solid. The C7 also has DD-WRT support AFAIK. Unfortunately the v2 C5 does not, since they changed chipsets (I think the v1.2 version of the C5 does). It does both 2.4 and 5 GHz, though you can disable each radio individually. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Sep 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 06:50
|
|
|
redeyes posted:Unless you must have wireless AC at top speeds etc, get a Mikrotik. Compared to TPlink stuff, there is no comparison. They have 5 GHz N that's actually reasonable for a home user to set up? 2.4's worthless these days so that's awesome! Let us see!
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 07:56
|
|
|
Hopefully you guys can suggest a good fix, for this. We moved into a larger house, and our wifi signal doesn't reach the upper floor. Unfortunately, the only place that my router can be set up is in the basement (this house's DSL wiring wasn't set up correctly, so only one wall jack works. And it's in the basement.). I have an Asus AC66U. Am I better off using a Powerline or a Wifi Extender?
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 15:14
|
|
|
If the connection is good on the first floor a WiFi extender may be fine. The only part that sucks about them is that they can only repeat at half the speed. Powerline may be better but that varies by house. Honestly just buy from a place with a generous return policy, because experimentation is your best bet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 15:22
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Hopefully you guys can suggest a good fix, for this. We moved into a larger house, and our wifi signal doesn't reach the upper floor. Unfortunately, the only place that my router can be set up is in the basement (this house's DSL wiring wasn't set up correctly, so only one wall jack works. And it's in the basement.). Always try a powerline adapter before you mess around with wifi range extenders or repeaters. Just get an AP or a second wifi router and ignore the WAN port, disable its DHCP, and give it the same wifi settings as your other router but stick it on a different channel. (a channel 5 channels apart, so 4 and 9, 1 and 6, ect...)
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 16:25
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:Anytime the power goes out, the switch is the first thing to come up - and since every PC is wired (and not only on a UPS, but also configured to power back on after a power failure), they're immediately trying to pull IPs as soon as they see the link come up. The router takes a good minute or so before DHCP starts working, and it takes almost as long for the modem itself to come up. Nothing is plugged into the router except for the cable modem (to WAN) and the switch (port 1). Windows will retry obtaining a DHCP lease every 5 minutes by default. The process itself takes 59 seconds to time out as Windows actually tries four times with timeouts of 5, 7, 15, and 32 seconds respectively. So it will spend a minute trying, and then 4 minutes waiting before trying again. You can reduce the waiting time to 1 second with the following registry entry: [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Dhcp\Parameters] "AutonetRetries"=dword:1 So with this Windows will continuously try to get a DHCP lease in 5, 7, 15, and 32 second intervals. (with a 1 second delay between cycles) So if your router comes up a few seconds after the final attempt it will still take 30 seconds or so for that attempt to time out before the cycle starts again. That's really the best you can do. If you want you can disable APIPA addresses with: [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters] "IPAutoconfigurationEnabled"=dword:0 But there probably isn't any real reason to do that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 16:43
|
|
|
Also a UPS will probably keep a cablemodem/router/switch going for a couple hours
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 17:56
|
|
|
I don't have any real need to do this, but I've been messing around with securing my network more than it is now. I have an Asus RT-N66W. What I was curious about is if there's a way to only allow connections via a list of Mac IDs. I'm guessing that this would be through an Enterprise configuration instead of Personal, or is there a way to filter it while using Personal? I see there's a way to reject or accept specific Mac IDs, but not (as far as I can tell) a way to reject everything except the Mac IDs listed. Which to me makes the ability to accept specific Mac IDs pointless, so I'm sure I'm missing something.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 18:53
|
|
|
Most consumer wifi gear can filter based on MAC addresses. Doing this is totally pointless as any actual attacker will only have to spend about 20 seconds getting around it by changing their MAC address. Thankfully the feature you are looking for, the ability to only accept traffic from white listed MAC addresses, is becoming less and less common as it provides nothing but a false sense of security. If you really want serious wifi security setup a RADIUS server and go WPA2 Enterprise. This way each wifi use has a unique username and password (to which you apply account lockout policies on the RADIUS server to prevent brute force attacks) instead of a pre shared key that everyone has that an attacker can try and brute force. Setting up a RADIUS server is well outside the scope of home networking but Linux and the server versions of Windows can do the job just fine. There might be software to let the client flavors of Windows do it too. Of course, it also means that you have to leave the server running 24-7 if you want your wifi to work. For most people WPA2 Personal in AES/CCMP only mode (TKIP is broken, don't use it) with a nice long password (20+ characters) is just fine. The things you can do relating to wifi security can be roughly broken down by who they will be effective against: I am a nice person who would like to offer my network to others because I trust everyone. - Disable wifi encryption. I want to keep the old lady next door from borrowing my wifi. - Hide the SSID. - Enable WEP. - Filter by MAC address. I want to keep the teenagers who hang out down the street off of my wifi. - Enable WPA with a reasonable password. - Enable WPA2 in TKIP or mixed mode with a reasonable password. - Use the Wi-Fi Protected Setup button on your router. The local 2600 meeting is taking place across the street and I don't want them on my wifi. - Enable WPA2 in AES/CCMP mode with a very long password. - Disable Wi-Fi Protected Setup on your router. I am running a business and need to pass PCI, HIPAA, or similar compliance audits. - Setup a RADIUS server. - Enable WPA2 Enterprise with EAP-PEAP. I am involved in international intrigue and there is an unmarked van parked outside my place an awful lot these days. - Setup a RADIUS server and your own internal CA. - Enable WPA2 Enterprise with EAP-TLS and client certificate validation with 4096 bit RSA keys. Antillie fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Sep 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 20:21
|
|
|
If you use a full keyset (numbers, capitals, special characters) a ten character, randomly guessed* password is of sufficient capability that even a zero-lag supercomputer making a hundred trillion guesses per second would take a week to compute. https://www.grc.com/haystack.htm That page has a lot of other good password tips (including padding which is really overlooked in common passwords, imo) *a ten character dictionary word would be found quickly. A ten character word followed by ten exclamation marks will probably never ever, ever ever in the remaining time of human existence ever be cracked.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 23:34
|
|
|
10 characters is weak. No matter how many special symbols you have in there. XKCD explained it best: When making passwords, length matters more than anything else. In fact, its only thing that matters as an attacker is going to assume that the password contains symbols, numbers, and upper/lower case anyway. I would say that 12-14 characters is a good minimum. Antillie fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Sep 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2015 23:40
|
|
|
brashuncompromisingdildohobos it is then.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 00:23
|
|
|
Antillie posted:I have only used their UAPs and Toughswitches myself and they are very easy to configure. I imagine the EdgerouterX will be similarly easy to figure out. All of their stuff has a nice well polished GUI. If you have a good grasp of basic networking concepts you shouldn't have any trouble. Some of the settings, like vlans, might be unfamiliar to you but vlans are not needed on a normal home network anyway. Which UAP would you recommend? I am replacing a Cisco Aironet 1100 series for a customer. Newegg has a few listed but the reviews are mixed and they keep saying they are not enterprise grade products. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0ED-0005-00014
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 00:35
|
|
|
So authentication is complicated and every time people give out generic advice like "use weird letters and symbols" or "use long passphrases" I think you risk overstating things without providing a specific context. Passphrases are a good way of remembering longer passwords, just keep in mind due to various factors in implementation and user behavior many password schemes are not as strong as claimed / theoretically possible. http://arstechnica.com/business/2012/03/passphrases-only-marginally-more-secure-than-passwords-because-of-poor-choices/
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 00:38
|
|
|
This is pissing me off, help would be appreciated. Background, I'm covered in Layer 2, and even with my CCNP (boot camp) my layer 3 is lacking. I'm having trouble getting support from my company on a short turn around. I am trying to install NFV orchestration software that rides as a VM on Openstack (Icehouse). Basically, I install the Openstack cloud fine, 10.248.70.8 on Eth 0. The Orchestration software is installed as a VM, and the last part of the installation requires SSH communcation between 10.248.70.8 and the IP that is assigned from a floating IP range that was designated on the initial install. In this case its on a 10.248.66.96/27 network. On this specific attempt, it was assigned 10.248.66.108. The SSH part of the install always fails. I'm using a POS Linksys router's WAN and LAN ports for the routing function, but cannot get these two to work. Using PC's instead of the server, I get pings across the subnets but I have to route add Xxxx mask xxxx other networks gateway and disable the firewall. I don't have that option on the server (at least I don't know how to do it). Can I somehow configure it in the POS router? This shouldn't be that complicated, any tips? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 00:53
|
|
|
Bishyaler posted:Which UAP would you recommend? I am replacing a Cisco Aironet 1100 series for a customer. Newegg has a few listed but the reviews are mixed and they keep saying they are not enterprise grade products. I have a pair of the basic UAP models myself. I can't attest to their capabilities in a true enterprise environment but all of my experience with them suggests that they would handle such a deployment just fine. These are just single band N though. They also make a dual band N model as well. If you want AC I would try and find some UAP-AC-Lites or UAP-AC-Pros. They seem to be a bit hard to find still though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 01:10
|
|
|
highmoves posted:This is pissing me off, help would be appreciated. Background, I'm covered in Layer 2, and even with my CCNP (boot camp) my layer 3 is lacking. I'm having trouble getting support from my company on a short turn around. I am trying to install NFV orchestration software that rides as a VM on Openstack (Icehouse). First, it sounds like you are doing commercial stuff so a linksys router is probably the wrong choice for what you are doing. You need an actual router, not a consumer grade piece of junk. Even with DD-WRT this might be a challenge as you would have to turn off NAT and the firewall and make it into an actual router and I am not sure how easy that is on DD-WRT. An EdgerouterX or Edgerouter Lite would be perfect here. An old ASA 5505 or IOS router could also do the job. Or a pfSense box. I suspect that the reason you need static routes on the PCs to make this work is because the linksys is not acting as a DHCP server on the WAN interface so the Orchestrator doesn't know how to reach the 10.248.70.0/24 network. Static routes fix this. So you either need to figure out how to add static routes to the server, you need to install DD-WRT on the linksys and mess around with it to turn of NAT and the firewall and enable a DHCP server on the WAN, or you need a real router that can easily do those things out of the box. A printout of the routing tables of all of the devices in the chart would really help.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 01:28
|
|
|
Antillie posted:Most consumer wifi gear can filter based on MAC addresses. Doing this is totally pointless as any actual attacker will only have to spend about 20 seconds getting around it by changing their MAC address. Based on this, it sounds like what you're referring to is rejecting specific Mac IDs (hence the person changing theirs and then accessing it). So there's no way to say "only allow these specific Mac IDs access"? I would assume then that even if you could clone the Mac ID you'd have to know the Mac ID's in the list in order to clone it which I wouldn't think would be easy without access to the device. edit: nevermind, I see you mentioned white listed which I'm assuming means "good". Just for curiousity, why is it easy for a hacker to figure those out and clone them? Gzuz-Kriced fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Sep 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 02:52
|
|
|
Antillie posted:First, it sounds like you are doing commercial stuff so a linksys router is probably the wrong choice for what you are doing. You need an actual router, not a consumer grade piece of junk. Even with DD-WRT this might be a challenge as you would have to turn off NAT and the firewall and make it into an actual router and I am not sure how easy that is on DD-WRT. An EdgerouterX or Edgerouter Lite would be perfect here. An old ASA 5505 or IOS router could also do the job. Or a pfSense box. Yes, extremely commercial for a Tier 1 carrier. I agree, the best buy box isn't the best choice here but my options are limited based upon what I have and the lab conditions of the carrier being completely isolated from the internet (openstack cloud installs on icehouse require internet access). The routing tables from the linksys. Again, I don't know how to show a netstat -rn on the server.  I see both IP subnets there, I have the linksys set up as a router... i've tried both enabling rip and disabling it. It's so simple I must be missing something simple.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 03:40
|
|
|
Gzuz-Kriced posted:edit: nevermind, I see you mentioned white listed which I'm assuming means "good". Just for curiousity, why is it easy for a hacker to figure those out and clone them? Capture a couple of packets from your wifi network and look at the MAC addresses in them. The layer 2 headers are not encrypted by the wifi encryption as doing so would break the network. I was completely serious with my 20 second time estimate. This is a limitation of all wifi encryption specs that is necessary to maintain compatibility with "enterprise mode" where a RADIUS server allows each user to have a separate wifi login and associated unique encryption key that is never reused. Since each client device is using a unique encryption key the layer 2 headers must be sent in the clear so each client device knows which packets are addressed to it so it will know which ones to try and decrypt. Antillie fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Sep 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 14:06
|
|
|
highmoves posted:Yes, extremely commercial for a Tier 1 carrier. I agree, the best buy box isn't the best choice here but my options are limited based upon what I have and the lab conditions of the carrier being completely isolated from the internet (openstack cloud installs on icehouse require internet access). The routing table of the server is what we really need I think. If it doesn't have a default gateway then it will need static routes to fix the issue. Otherwise it has no idea how to reach the 10.248.70.0/24 network. Is the linksys router acting as a DHCP server on the WAN interface? And don't you ever talk about using RIP in a commercial setting ever again. Antillie fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Sep 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 14:13
|
|
|
thanks, I've localized the issue to the Linksys router. Replacing the server with a couple laptops, i had to manually add the static routes to be able to ping the gateways of the two subnets. Yep, sorry for the RIP comment, I was just trying to get temporary connectivity so this SSH process would finish and the install of the Orchestrator would continue.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 15:56
|
|
|
Finally set up my Edgerouter X and UAP today. My only hiccup was having to do L3 adoption on the UAP, but even that is fairly well documented. Everything seems rock sold and fast. Can't wait to upgrade to the AC Lite when it becomes available this winter and move this one upstairs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 16:44
|
|
|
I recently upgraded from a Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi Wireless-G Broadband Router to a Edimax AC1200 Multi-Function Concurrent Dual-Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router. Out of the box things were great. I'm on the same floor, but probably 100ft away without a direct line of sight to the router, and was able to connect to the 2.4ghz and 5ghz networks and saw my wireless speeds go from 15mbps down to 80-89mbps. I had no problems for a few days, but then I noticed that the network wasn't discoverable when I woke up in the morning. When I go look at the router it seems that it is constantly resetting itself. I'll be able to connect to the wireless network for a minute and then it goes offline again. Sometimes giving it a hard reboot will fix this issue and I'll be fine for the rest of the day. Other times I'm not able to connect at all. I've done some research and haven't found anything that was much of help, so I figured I would try my luck here. The router does not feel warm/hot to the touch so I don't think it is overheating. I've tried disabling the 5ghz band to see if that resolves the issue, but it does not. I've even flipped the radio switch and tried to plug a laptop directly into the router while it is doing the restart routine, and it continues to restart. Did I just buy a lovely router? Any suggestions on possible router settings that I could play with to help with this issue? I'm considering just going back to the linksys. While it's significantly slower, at least the connection is constant.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 18:40
|
|
|
Try doing a firmware upgrade and factory defaults on that device first, and then if that doesn't fix it, the device is probably defective.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 20:32
|
|
|
Antillie posted:Capture a couple of packets from your wifi network and look at the MAC addresses in them. The layer 2 headers are not encrypted by the wifi encryption as doing so would break the network. I was completely serious with my 20 second time estimate. Ah, cool. Thanks for the explanation. I know next to nothing about networking so I never would have considered that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 20:39
|
|
|
Pointblank` posted:Did I just buy a lovely router? Sounds like it. I would try a firmware update as CrazyLittle suggested. If that doesn't fix the issue see if you can return it. Antillie fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Sep 29, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2015 22:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 01:49 |
|
|
So I'm trying to get an open Nat on my ps4 and I don't seem to be having much luck. I'm using a linksys e1000 and its stuck on type 2 Nat. I'd like to get to type 1. Port forwarding hasn't helped nor has the DMZ option. I also feel like my current router is likely going to poo poo the bed soon. If I was to get a new router for a small home which is the best option ? It's likely only max going to have 5-6 devices at once, more likely 2-3. I've seen people recommend that Asus 66u.
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2015 10:47
|
|
