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Weirdo posted:Any advice for my soviet general goblins? Anything I should fix or should I just go ahead and seal them? The fur trim looks a little flat, but that could just be the photo washing the colour out.
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# ? Oct 10, 2015 00:56 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 09:25 |
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dr_ether posted:The fur trim looks a little flat, but that could just be the photo washing the colour out. It is a little flat, would you suggest giving it some fur pattern with highlights?
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# ? Oct 10, 2015 04:36 |
Latest batch of dudes for Infinity. Put quite some effort into them, feedback appreciated.
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# ? Oct 10, 2015 08:42 |
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Primer Debacle, Part 6: White primer turned out to be glossy, grey was actually silver. Damnit. Looks like I'll be priming by hand. Any advice? I assume lots of thin layers. Something like 2:1 paint to water?
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# ? Oct 10, 2015 09:40 |
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WIP shots I took of an Oniwaban for Infinity.
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# ? Oct 10, 2015 11:02 |
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Ooooh, definitely like the StormShadow vibe.
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# ? Oct 10, 2015 14:34 |
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Trying something different tonight. I have a terminator chaplain and the chaplain from the Reclusian Command Squad boxset. My space marines are Salamanders, so these chaplains are going to have some degree of green on them. Since black is a difficult color to paint effectively on models, I'm going to try something I've learned as an oil painter. In oil and acrylic painting, black is also a very strong color and using a pure black is generally not recommended. A more natural black is a little warm or cold, so you would add a red, blue, or violet to it to make it a little more natural. That or mix a few colors together to make a natural black. So I've put on a kelly green base for both models and am applying a liberal amount of black wash over the green. I suppose that I could have used a pure black and just painted a green highlight on the corners and edges of the armor, but let's see where this goes. EDIT: Oh god what the hell was I thinking? Star Man fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Oct 11, 2015 |
# ? Oct 11, 2015 02:09 |
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Painting black, or even greys, tends to straight kick my rear end. I really wish I could figure out the trick of it.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 05:33 |
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The Mantis posted:Primer Debacle, Part 6: One or two thin layers should do. You don't need perfect coverage. You just need to have enough for the paint to get a grip on.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 05:39 |
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Cyclomatic posted:Painting black, or even greys, tends to straight kick my rear end. I really wish I could figure out the trick of it. Well, I conceded and just painted over what I had with black and am going to go over the corners with Warpstone Glow. If I paint another Salamanders chaplain, I'm going to mix a little red with the black to make it warm and see what I get.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 05:45 |
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I picked up a paint brush for the first time in a decade and change. Lessons learned - * Thin your paints, dammit * Reaper makes some pretty sweet minis for as cheap as they are * I don't miss supergluing a ton of leads together at all. My metallics are coming out surprisingly dull; I really thought the Trans-Am A-wing was gonna be a lot busier. Am I thinning my paints too much, or do I just need even more touchups for metallic spots? My "Wraith Squadron" X-wing turned out more like Lavender Squadron. Also, I'm thinking the A-wing needs something to liven it up a little, but I'm not sure what. Recommendations?
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 14:35 |
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A-wing needs rising sun beams from the back. I'd say front but the edge is too narrow to get a good effect unless you start at the middle and switch colors halfway through.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 15:58 |
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Like they're coming off the guns? Red or gold? I was also thinking of doing the engine cones black, then doing the rings in gold.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 16:23 |
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What ever color would be best. Gold might be too bright but can't tell the darkness of the purple color - mustard yellow might be alright though? Or maybe red is best. Mine are all dirtied up I don't know how grey or white the factory job is. I was thinking engines but maybe guns? For me, suppose I had another falcon to paint up. (I might.) what would be the most #HanYoloSwag paint scheme for one?
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 16:31 |
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I would go with the blue or red body, personally. The blue-on-white would look pretty Imperial.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 18:35 |
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Self-mutilation
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 19:03 |
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Star Man posted:Self-mutilation The fact that you are using GW products is torment enough
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 19:23 |
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Iron Crowned posted:The fact that you are using GW products is torment enough Hey, I'm trying to use them up before I completely convert to Vallejo.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 19:34 |
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There are still a few GW colors that are totally worth using. Mephiston red is an outstanding basecoat color, their washes are still fine, and some of their layer paints are decent. Their tools (with the possible exception of that seam scraper) and especially plastic cups etc are ridiculously overpriced for what they are, though.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 19:54 |
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True dat. I like their hobby box and washes. I like the darker color that Gehenna's Gold is over the bright Vallejo golds, but that might just be a matter of finding the right combination of washes to use Vallejo gold with to match that hue. But I think the only reason that I have the plastic CItadel cup was because I was lazy and didn't want to save a spaghetti sauce jar.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 20:08 |
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stabbington posted:There are still a few GW colors that are totally worth using. Mephiston red is an outstanding basecoat color, their washes are still fine, and some of their layer paints are decent. Their tools (with the possible exception of that seam scraper) and especially plastic cups etc are ridiculously overpriced for what they are, though. Yeah, I dunno, I've been on a GW boycott since earlier this year when I found the price increases once again. I was really loving stoked when I went into my flgs on Friday and found a sparkly new Vallejo rack. They're planning to get out of the GW game too.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 20:17 |
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I have a weird question Is there a place where I can purchase a pen with magnetic oxide ink? I see pigments and fountain pens online but I really don't have time for that, just want to buy a pre-packaged unit just like those ink markers that detect fake dollar bills. Cyclomatic posted:Painting black, or even greys, tends to straight kick my rear end. I really wish I could figure out the trick of it. Black with grey highlights is one of the easiest things to paint for me, are you able to tell me what you're struggling with or why the results don't look right? Star Man posted:Self-mutilation I commonly unload my brush onto my left thumbnail, did it once on my thigh during a hot summer night when I was deep in concentration.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 20:19 |
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SRM posted:Didn't Reaper's paints used to all have a tiny pewter skull in them for mixing paint? I don't know if I'm remembering that right but I think that's lovably goofy and I'm surprised GW doesn't do that. Slimnoid posted:They did, yes. It proved to be a bit too expensive to do, so they switched it out to something cheaper. Plastic BBs I think. SRM posted:Aw shucks. That was always a fun little random thing, but I totally understand why they stopped. I got a full case of paints as a birthday set back in like '05, '06. When one of you guys posted about the skull beads (a year or three ago), I started spelunking for them whenever a bottle gummed up irreparably. I think I'm up to like 10-12 skulls now.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 21:08 |
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Started playing Warmachine, picked up a Menoth battle box, just finished it. Those are my first miniatures in close to a decade. They're all decent tabletop quality, though the Warcaster (little dude up front) is the only one I'm completely satisfied with. I'm not sure I like how I'm doing the bases. I'm just dunking them in snow flock and then putting random little bushes on there. Any tips for decent looking arctic bases?
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 21:39 |
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Found my FLGS had Vallejo laser-cut paint organizers, similar to Lumbering Troll's setup. Having spent too long making excuses re: organization, I picked up enough to hold my collection and then some to encourage more actual painting. There's room for more! Mostly I've got the full original Game Color range, but would like to expand with some flatter / less saturated colors. Any favorites from the Model Color line for "go-to" shades? Also looking for handy pigment options.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 22:14 |
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Always dig dark Menoth, looking great.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 23:16 |
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Post 9-11 User posted:Black with grey highlights is one of the easiest things to paint for me, are you able to tell me what you're struggling with or why the results don't look right? I suspect the primary issue is that I'm not very good at highlights. Painting whites is 100% about the shades, and it seems like painting blacks is 100% about the highlights. Here is some stuff I tried to paint blacks on and they just didn't come out very well. Was literally like 'gently caress it, base coat of solid black and I'm done' for her hair after how badly the pants came out.
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# ? Oct 11, 2015 23:42 |
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VMC Black-Grey + black wash = instant black with depth
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 01:50 |
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Silhouette posted:VMC Black-Grey + black wash = instant black with depth I get the feeling I'd run out of wash if I used that technique when I'm going to start painting an Inquisitorial APC. Then again, not sure how well that would work on large almost flat surfaces.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 02:34 |
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Vulkan He'stan with banner. This is the unspiration thread, right?
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 03:02 |
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Post 9-11 User posted:I have a weird question Do you need the paint itself to be magnetic or do you just need metallic paint that will adhere to magnets?
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 03:29 |
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Cooked Auto posted:I get the feeling I'd run out of wash if I used that technique when I'm going to start painting an Inquisitorial APC. Then again, not sure how well that would work on large almost flat surfaces.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 03:33 |
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SRM posted:Don't wash whole vehicles. You'll get some really gross pooling that won't actually make your model look weathered and dirty, it'll just make it look like poo poo. Use wash strategically around rivets and raised details and use it to shade the recesses of the model only, then clean it up with the base color. I mean, you can do it but you need the skills to do it well. I paint basically all my big constructs and vehicles with washes and inks these days, but it wasn't until I started reading serious Euromodelismo stuff that I really got into painting vehicles using primarily wash based weathering.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 03:38 |
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I mean, you can do it but you need the skills to do it well. I paint basically all my big constructs and vehicles with washes and inks these days, but it wasn't until I started reading serious Euromodelismo stuff that I really got into painting vehicles using primarily wash based weathering.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 03:54 |
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I wash all my vehicles too. The trick is either an airbrush or thinning your wash with gloss varnish (which will prevent pooling). Really though, SRM is right. When you 'wash' a vehicle to shade it, you shouldn't be washing the whole vehicle. You need to hit targeted parts otherwise it will look flat. If you are using your wash to change the base color, then it's actually a 'filter' in which case yes hit the whole drat thing.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 04:11 |
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Does anyone know a good place for 30mm base inserts that's available in the US? I'm looking for cobblestone/brick roadway or anything that's Victorian or Wild West -esque. It's going to be for some Malifaux minis. I've found a few sites, but they mostly seem to be based in the UK.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 04:43 |
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Floppychop posted:Does anyone know a good place for 30mm base inserts that's available in the US? Cool Mini or Not has an rear end-ton of base inserts. I've never used them because I like doing my bases from scratch, so I can't say what they're like in person though.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 05:16 |
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Floppychop posted:Does anyone know a good place for 30mm base inserts that's available in the US? The CMON one's are OK but spendy as are the official Malifaux ones. If you haven't based yet it's honestly cheaper to just get 30mm bases. I really like the Secret Weapons ones but there are tons of great companies on eBay these days. Scibor also does really really impressive bases, especially in large sizes. My dreamer crew is on his overgrown ruins style ones.
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 05:18 |
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Floppychop posted:Does anyone know a good place for 30mm base inserts that's available in the US? I bought some of these because they were at nova where I got my http://tectoniccraftstudios.com/collections/bases-and-inserts My 30mm ones fit nice and snug, then my 40mm ones were less snug and my 50mm ones had a lot of extra room from the edge, though that might be because the WoK bases are different than other recessed bases, they are quite deep. edit: wrong game
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# ? Oct 12, 2015 05:22 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 09:25 |
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I bought some of these because they were at nova where I got my These one's are kind of neat but I feel at that point you could buy a Cake imprint mat at Michaels/Hobby Lobby and some Green Stuff and get the same level of detail fidelity for a lot cheaper. MDF is good for a lot of stuff, but it seems a bit textureless for bases is all. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Oct 12, 2015 |
# ? Oct 12, 2015 05:27 |