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Failing to run without the choke is almost always a sign of a clogged pilot jet. Fix the carbs before you worry about the creeping, as a high idle to overcome the clogged pilot jet will cause the clutch to engage slightly and the bike to creep.
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Oct 31, 2015 18:53
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I'm dumb. It was just a vacuum tube that wasn't connected to the petcock.
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Oct 31, 2015 20:53
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When you see the listed fuel capacity for a bike with a reserve tank, does the number usually include the reserve? Mine's saying 18 litres, and I've somewhere gotten the idea that the reserve is about a gallon (but now I can't find that page in the manual, typical). So is my total capacity about 22 litres, or just 18?
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Oct 31, 2015 23:08
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Renaissance Robot posted:When you see the listed fuel capacity for a bike with a reserve tank, does the number usually include the reserve? If yours is listed as 18 liters, it's 18 liters total. The reserve is taken out of the total capacity, not added.
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Oct 31, 2015 23:10
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I'm moving to the US and am wondering about the added costs of getting a new bike. For example: http://www.cycletrader.com/dealers/East-Bay-Motorsports-2924948/listing/2016-Yamaha-FZ-07-Raven-115038099 "MSRP/Sale price does NOT include taxes, license, tire fees & dealer freight/set-up." What am I looking at here? Do any of these (sales tax?) apply to used bikes from shops as well?
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Nov 1, 2015 00:36
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Sales tax takes place on all sales. You can often talk a dealer out of "setup" and other added costs. Offering "out the door" means you get the bike for the agreed amount and no more (ie it includes fees and taxes.) If you buy private party, I believe sales tax is taken by the state once it's transferred over into your name.
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Nov 1, 2015 00:44
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Thanks. So generally if I show up with a wad of cash I should be able to simply pay sticker price? Do you normally have any further leeway with bargaining or are prices mostly non-negotiable?
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Nov 1, 2015 01:10
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Kane posted:Thanks. So generally if I show up with a wad of cash I should be able to simply pay sticker price? If buying a motorcycle new is anything like buying a car new (#UsedLyfe) then sticker price is for chumps, and you should be able to get it for a fair bit below that out the door. Bargaining is one of the biggest parts of buying a car in the US.
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Nov 1, 2015 01:31
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Is there a good place to buy used engines or wrecked bikes? Trying to find an engine for an engine swap.
-Zydeco- fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Nov 1, 2015 |
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Nov 1, 2015 02:00
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eBay/craigslist/wera forums/local rider forums.
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Nov 1, 2015 04:24
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Z3n posted:Failing to run without the choke is almost always a sign of a clogged pilot jet. Fix the carbs before you worry about the creeping, as a high idle to overcome the clogged pilot jet will cause the clutch to engage slightly and the bike to creep. Yikes, was hoping I wouldn't have to delve into the carbs this early, although doing some reading this one doesn't look too awful. Took the bike for a longer ride today and I definitely need to re-adjust the clutch further now that I've messed with it, sigh. -Zydeco- posted:Is there a good place to buy used engines or wrecked bikes? Trying to find an engine for an engine swap. Might even be a bike-specific junkyard near you, motorbike wreckers are a thing here in Australia at least.
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Nov 1, 2015 08:34
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So it seems like my front brakes might be partially or completely seized; wheeling it down the ramp out of the van yesterday it was juddering quite a lot like the pads were sticking, this morning I went to check in advance of getting it out to do some work on it and couldn't move the front wheel by hand at all. How big of a job is this going to be? Is there an adjustment screw somewhere I can fiddle with to separate the callipers more, or will I have to strip the whole assembly, clean it out and replace the pads? (I mean obviously that'll want doing at some point, but if there's a quick yet safe thing I can do that'll make it rideable enough to get to a mechanic then I'd want to do that first and then decide if I can be bothered giving it the full strip down myself)
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Nov 1, 2015 11:22
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Any chance you've recently installed aftermarket brake levers?
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Nov 1, 2015 11:52
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Literally just bought the thing. Garaged for three years, maybe the pads swelled up or something, if that can happen?
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Nov 1, 2015 11:59
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Maybe try just taking the calipers off, pulling the pads off and seeing how freely the pistons move? Should give you some sort of an answer.
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Nov 1, 2015 12:50
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Is there any site that both dealers and private people use to publish new and used bikes? I know Cycletrader and Oodle. Anything else worth checking out, especially for the bay area?
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Nov 1, 2015 14:18
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Kane posted:Is there any site that both dealers and private people use to publish new and used bikes? Just swing by z3n's garage and pick out whatever you like. He'll bill you.
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Nov 1, 2015 14:40
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I recently put an aftermarket can on my transalp(carbed). The stock exhaust was falling to bits and aftermarket was much cheaper than used/new stock can. Now when I engine brake with low load on the engine, like down a hill i get much more popping in the exhaust than before. I use the same amount of fuel and oil as before( a little less than 1 dl pr 1000km). I had some popping with the old can, just not that much. I don't mind the noise, I'm just wondering if it's harmful to the engine?
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Nov 1, 2015 16:10
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Supradog posted:I recently put an aftermarket can on my transalp(carbed). The stock exhaust was falling to bits and aftermarket was much cheaper than used/new stock can. Now when I engine brake with low load on the engine, like down a hill i get much more popping in the exhaust than before. I use the same amount of fuel and oil as before( a little less than 1 dl pr 1000km). Nope, your new exhaust just doesn't baffle as much. I'd guess it's also louder too?
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Nov 1, 2015 16:18
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Yeah, it's a good bit louder, especially since the ebay seller forgot to send the db-killer insert with it.
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Nov 1, 2015 16:28
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builds character posted:Just swing by z3n's garage and pick out whatever you like. He'll bill you. Whonow?
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Nov 1, 2015 17:49
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Kane posted:Whonow? Much to learn, young padawan.
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Nov 1, 2015 17:57
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Kane posted:Is there any site that both dealers and private people use to publish new and used bikes? Craigslist, BayAreaRidersForum.com. Bay Area craigslist moves super fast, so if you want to get good deals you need to have a pile of cash on hand and be ready to move on good deals. Using an automated Craigslist alert helps a pile as well. Ethics_Gradient posted:Yikes, was hoping I wouldn't have to delve into the carbs this early, although doing some reading this one doesn't look too awful. Took the bike for a longer ride today and I definitely need to re-adjust the clutch further now that I've messed with it, sigh. It's really not that bad - just need some wire and some patience. The important thing to do is run the wire through the pilot jet and try and get it to scrape any varnish off the sides. Make yourself a clean workspace and take lots of pictures if you're worried about how it goes together. Also get a JIS screwdriver if the float bowl screws are JIS on that bike (they'll have a little dot on the head of the screw if they are). Also my garage collection has gotten sad these days, it's all smug modern poo poo with no old fun toys. On the flip side, might be buying a Cagiva soon! Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Nov 1, 2015 |
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Nov 1, 2015 18:05
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ok, question. Are these hybrid sprockets a good mix between an aluminum sprocket's lightness and a regular sprocket's hardiness? http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-wheels-and-final-drive/sprockets/supersprox-stealth-sprockets Or are they just nice snake oil?
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Nov 2, 2015 14:07
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I've got a question for any NY riders (or anyone who can answer this) I'm a total noob and I like to worry for some reason. I just finished my MSF Ridercourse and went to the DMV to get my licence class changed to DM. They handed me an interim license and said my current drivers licence is now considered voided. Now in the car I see that the interim licence only says it's a class M, not DM. Should I be concerned or is that how it works? Does anyone remember what their interim license said prior to getting the new licence in the mail?
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Nov 2, 2015 18:43
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Colonel Flapjacks posted:I've got a question for any NY riders (or anyone who can answer this) IIRC, mine said DM. I'd go back just in case.
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Nov 2, 2015 19:34
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Ozmiander posted:IIRC, mine said DM. I'd go back just in case. Thanks Ozmiander, I'll look into it now.
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Nov 2, 2015 21:29
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nitrogen posted:ok, question. I'd worry about galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminium components, also that if the poo poo hits the fan I'd much rather my sprocket lost teeth than sheared and introduced itself to my swingarm. Why are you particularly worried about shaving a couple of hundred grams from your sprocket, anyway?
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Nov 2, 2015 21:36
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Please say hypermiling 
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Nov 2, 2015 22:37
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I'd worry about galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminium components, also that if the poo poo hits the fan I'd much rather my sprocket lost teeth than sheared and introduced itself to my swingarm. couple hundred? There is no way that thing is more than a quarter pound lighter. It seems gimmicky and stupid, imo.
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Nov 2, 2015 22:59
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Spent some more time on it this afternoon. Checked brakes, chain (needs tightening, I need tools). Also took the rims from this: To this:  with some water and aluminium foil. Take that, superficial surface rust! I also checked out the air filter, p. dirty:  Will order some filter oil and solvent with the other assorted parts. Also pictured: finally found a use for my first gen iPad (been annoyingly useless now that Youtube app doesn't work anymore), displaying shop manual so I don't have to print it. Checked out the battery compartment, no battery. Also these two mystery wires, should they be connected, or left as-is? Didn't want to fry anything so left them as they were for now:  I did some recon on the carburettor to prepare myself for a later disassembly... uh... as it turns out, one of the bolts that holds the intake on is missing, leading to a not-quite-perfect seal on one side. Possibly part of my problem with choke? I couldn't feel anything with my hand by it when the engine was on, however. View from the front:  And lastly, noticed the bike will not stay un-choked when running; as soon as I give it some throttle, the knob starts to rotate towards "open". Upon closer inspection, the little groove that the retaining rod sits in for "fully off" has been worn much more shallow than the one for "fully on", which is probably the issue. I really need to just replace the knob (the lever on it was broken off by the PO), but I can't actually find that individual part for sale anywhere, seems like I'd have order an entirely new carb (!).  edit: also, I was going to pick up a muiltimeter, because I'm sure I'll need one at some point. I was just going to get an AU$20 eBay special, but OTOH even though I'm on a budget, I'm also a fan of buying quality once rather than something crappy multiple times. Would the cheap multimeter be just as good (assuming I don't abuse it), or is there another one I should look at? Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Nov 3, 2015 |
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Nov 3, 2015 08:50
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Yeah cheap ones are fine. My <10 dollar harbor freight meter does the job for me.
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Nov 4, 2015 01:48
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Buy the cheapest one. Throw it away and buy a new one when batteries die. 
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Nov 4, 2015 03:39
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I got a free HF multimeter when I purchased a $2 flashlight. I dunno either.
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Nov 4, 2015 03:56
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Awesome to hear, cheap it is! In today's adventure, I tried to remove the luggage rack so I could inspect the air intake restrictor, which is integrated into it. According to sources online, this could be one culprit behind the engine not idling without choke. Naturally, to get the final bolt out (should be final two bolts, but of course one came pre-missing) I need either a thin crescent wrench to get up into the wheel well and hold the bolt on the other side, or to remove the rear wheel entirely so I can get a pair of pliers around it. Not really a big deal as with the two top bolts off I could tilt it back enough to inspect anyways:  Welp. Not sure what it's supposed to look like, GIS hasn't been illuminating. Gonna try on a postie forum to see if I can rig something up, or get a replacement from someone. I haven't seen the individual part listed on any eBay or postie specialist stores (unless I want to buy a new rack entirely for $60, no thanks), on the plus side this could be a relatively easy fix to my problem. I was riding into town to do a bit of shopping this arvo when I heard that dry raspy fart of an engine losing compression. I coasted to the bottom of the hill, looked down, and saw my spark plug chillin' at the end of its cable, nonchalantly not screwed into the engine. Since PO had disposed of the bike's toolkit (and I didn't have a sparkplug tool of my own), I resorted to screwing it in as tightly as I could by hand, which was fortunately enough to get her running again and get me home. Inspected the threads when I got home and everything seems fine, fortunately. Would rather not risk that happening again, so the bike is in drydock until I get a spark plug tool (was on my shopping list anyways). Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 07:24
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Just got back from getting my mostly legal Symba inspected. The road I took has a speed limit of 35, so I did get into the top gear on a bike with 5 miles on it. I heard some metallic rattling on throttle, but it didn't sound like pinging to me. It was mostly random and didn't really follow the engine speed. Something to worry about or should I just change the oil with Rotella T6 and go nuts?
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Nov 4, 2015 18:15
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Looking to do suspension upgrades on 2 bikes. Forks are easy, probably just doing racetech springs and gold valves in both. Shocks are hard. First is a 2013 ninja 650 - daily-driver, commuter, day-tripper, occasional tourer. Ridden on poo poo roads, wet roads, and poo poo roads covered with wet poo poo. Kawasaki stuck the shock off to the side which makes it nice to look at and leaves room for the lower battery box, but it leaves like no room for a piggyback reservoir because the frame is in the way. Also the mounting points look different from most other shocks. Also the ninja's direct shock is different than most bikes with a linkage. I can't see many swap-in upgrades. There seems to be a real lack of any kind of enthusiast community for the ninja 650 so not many places to turn to for guidance. I think the Versys shock is a direct swap. One forum said the versys shock (which adjusts for preload and damping) is a better unit that the ninja, and motorcyclist online keeps crowing about how the Versys is the best handling bike in the world so that would appear to be at least something. Beyond that, options seem to start at $600 for low level ohlins/penske/etc. or $1100 for something with a remote reservoir. Any suggestions? It looks like an R1 shock may work if mounted upside down with minimal other surgery and offer some improvement. Does any bike come with a stock remote reservoir shock which might offer a cheap/better/easy alternative? Or is my best realistic option paying $,$$$ for a purpose made unit from penske/ohlins/racetech? Second is a wrecked 06 ninja 250 envisioned as a gymkhana or mild hooligan bike. Seems like a shock with a piggyback reservoir can fit if you chop up the battery box, which can probably be lived with. ninja250.org has a writeup for a gsxr shock swap. I do have at my disposal a new (maybe 2k mi) shock off an 09 SV650S. looking at the wiki it seems like i may have some options here with an OEM from the various supersports, just needing effort. Any suggestions? I've been debating just calling RT or Traxxion to see if they've done anything for these but since both sell $1k upgrades they may not have an incentive to offer advice for something I can find off Ebay.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:37
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HAMAS HATE BOAT posted:Looking to do suspension upgrades on 2 bikes. Doing some suspension shopping myself right now. Have you tried Hagon or YSS? They can be found for under $500. Hagon has been around forever and is a known quantity, but YSS is fairly new to the game. They are HQ'd in Thailand, so take that as you will, but it seems like they will make a shock for any bike. Nitron is another quality brand, priced similarly to Penske. Anything quality with a remote res is going to be upwards of $900 which is a lot for a bike that is only worth a few thousand. I'm tempted to try the YSS but $500 is a big risk for a brand I don't know much about.
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Nov 6, 2015 22:33
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The 650 was made in Thailand so i see that as no reason to hate on YSS. I'll consider those 2, looks like Hagon adjusts preload and damping, similar to the stock Versys shock, the YSS does preload and rebound. $500 bucks for a purpose built improvement over stock probably isnt too unreasonable when comparing the effort likely involved in trying to hack a take-off from a supersport to fit somehow. Also does anyone have real experience between Racetech gold valves and Ricor Intiminators? RT is the bigger name, intiminators seem newer. But when one of their prime selling points is "you dont need to drill the damping rod like with the gold valve" but IDGAF about drilling a hole if one way is better than the other.
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Nov 6, 2015 23:23
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Gorson posted:Have you tried Hagon or YSS? These are the brands I would be looking at for a Ninja 650. I have a Hagon with hydraulic preload and adjustable damping, it's a great shock, beats OEMs easily at half the price. For a Ninja 250 I would get an Öhlins with high/low speed adjustable damping, then I'd get a ZX-10R to fit around the shock. Then sell the Ninja 250 as down payment on the shock.
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Nov 7, 2015 00:32
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