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Car:95 mustang with t5 trans I'm putting in a new(to me) transmission and all I have is a normal floor jack. When I put the transmission on the jack, it sits crooked and tries to fall off when I raise it. Is there a way to raise and install the transmission without having to buy a $200 transmission jack? My current hairbrained scheme is to use plywood, ratchet straps, and the box the trans came in to create a floor that will make the trans sit level on the jack, then raise it. Good idea? Bad idea? Roadkill idea? Any of you guys have a better idea?
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Nov 4, 2015 19:01
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I haven't purchased a car battery in ages so now I'm all befuddled by in-house brands and Optima this-n-thats. The car that needs the new battery is a Ford E350 460 V8. It'll be driven infrequently (band van) and live in Minnesota (so many cold days). Any suggestions? The major US auto parts stores are very close to where I live, so autozone, advance auto parts, o'rielly, and napa.Marauder Stig posted:Car:95 mustang with t5 trans
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Nov 4, 2015 19:23
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mr. stefan posted:So last Friday my Volvo 740 had a major radiator failure three miles from my house that resulted in me replacing the entire radiator and putting in new coolant once the thing limped home. Problem now is that the dash heat gauge is pegged all the way to the right when the electricals engage, even though the engine was sitting cold for the weekend. I've made sure there aren't any bubbles in the coolant system, I'm not getting any check engine lights, and the engine seems to be running normally (aside from some stalling on start, but that's always been a problem.) Can you get a voltmeter on either location?
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Nov 4, 2015 19:51
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scuz posted:I haven't purchased a car battery in ages so now I'm all befuddled by in-house brands and Optima this-n-thats. The car that needs the new battery is a Ford E350 460 V8. It'll be driven infrequently (band van) and live in Minnesota (so many cold days). Any suggestions? The major US auto parts stores are very close to where I live, so autozone, advance auto parts, o'rielly, and napa. Consensus seems to be pretty much all batteries are made by one of a handful of manufacturers regardless of the brand name, so as long as the battery meets your vehicle's starting needs there's really no reason to care about what the brand sticker says. If the van is going to sit for long periods between being run you'll want to put the battery on a trickle charger. No need to remove the battery or disconnect the terminals, just open the hood and attach the clamps. Others will probably suggest more expensive solutions but I've always used the Harbor Freight wall wart charger and never had a problem with a battery being maintained by one, they're regularly on sale for $10.
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Nov 4, 2015 20:26
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Geoj posted:Consensus seems to be pretty much all batteries are made by one of a handful of manufacturers regardless of the brand name, so as long as the battery meets your vehicle's starting needs there's really no reason to care about what the brand sticker says.
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Nov 4, 2015 20:39
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2007 Honda Accord w/ 83k miles First got a check engine light last night. Light has been off and on since then. Pulled the following codes: P0135, P0155, P0641 . All apparently related to various O2 sensors. Since it's been raining here for 3 days straight I'm wondering if moisture might be causing a short. What's the best way to go about finding and fixing? Am I ok to drive it in the meantime?
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Nov 4, 2015 20:40
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scuz posted:Thank you! Finally, someone answers my "is this so stupid that nobody will answer it?" question. The van's gonna be stored outdoors, not ideal, but it's all we have. Luckily we never need it on like spur-of-the-moment situations so we'll be able to sorta charge it up ahead of time. Speaking of, should I try to charge this battery before I drop $100 on a new battery? If the battery has been sitting without a maintainer or the van being regularly driven its probably done, you can check its output voltage with a volt meter...if its below 12v the battery is done for and should be replaced (it will be very sensitive to temperature extremes and accessories being run with the engine off, and will put increased load on the alternator.) If you get a new battery and can't run an extension cord to where the van will be parked I would remove the battery from the van and put it somewhere where you can keep a trickle charger on it - lead acid batteries slowly self-discharge and if left long enough become ruined.
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Nov 4, 2015 20:44
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Geoj posted:If the battery has been sitting without a maintainer or the van being regularly driven its probably done, you can check its output voltage with a volt meter...if its below 12v the battery is done for and should be replaced (it will be very sensitive to temperature extremes and accessories being run with the engine off, and will put increased load on the alternator.) If you get a new battery and can't run an extension cord to where the van will be parked I would remove the battery from the van and put it somewhere where you can keep a trickle charger on it - lead acid batteries slowly self-discharge and if left long enough become ruined.
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Nov 4, 2015 20:53
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Can you get a voltmeter on either location? I can probably get one on the gauge sensor, the cte is buried pretty deep.
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Nov 4, 2015 21:15
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I've been having trouble finding a good adjustable cup-holder, does anybody have any suggestions? I'm putting it in a 70's VW bus, and I'm doing the interior all custom, so I can probably make it work even if it requires some weird mounting or anything. Ideally I'd find one that could hold my thin water bottle, or a coffee mug with a handle, or extra large in-n-out shakes, as needed-- but at this point I'd settle for one that seems like it's adjustable in any capacity and won't send my cup flying when I hit a bump or take a turn.
surc fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 4, 2015 |
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Nov 4, 2015 22:03
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I had a similar issue with a bmw coolant gauge (lol) and disconnecting the battery for a while seemed to reset it.
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Nov 4, 2015 22:12
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2006 Civic SI question -- where the hell are the rear jack stand points? I know where all you can raise the drat thing but not where you can support it and I really need to drain and refill the manual transmission.Godholio posted:According to this page it's 6x139.7 aka 6x5.5.
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Nov 4, 2015 22:31
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Okay after doing some more poking it looks like my best bet is the pinch welds. I've got HF 3 ton jack stands which don't have a relief, would four of these pads they also sell help? http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-pads-for-jack-stand-95952.html
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Nov 5, 2015 01:57
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Subaru Outback 3.0, 2006. Flat 6. Odd issue with static coming on intermittently when the rear defroster is on. Google says that it's probably a interference from the defroster and the antenna array also in the glass but those cases the static is louder and more consistent. Any other ideas or fixes I can try? (I'll look for a break in the lines during the day and get some of that paint to fix any.
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Nov 5, 2015 02:24
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mr. stefan posted:So last Friday my Volvo 740 had a major radiator failure three miles from my house that resulted in me replacing the entire radiator and putting in new coolant once the thing limped home. Problem now is that the dash heat gauge is pegged all the way to the right when the electricals engage, even though the engine was sitting cold for the weekend. I've made sure there aren't any bubbles in the coolant system, I'm not getting any check engine lights, and the engine seems to be running normally (aside from some stalling on start, but that's always been a problem.) It's probably the sensor. They break sometimes and will give a faulty reading, like no resistance or super high resistance. You could test with the key in on and check the resistance.
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Nov 5, 2015 03:26
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scuz posted:I haven't purchased a car battery in ages so now I'm all befuddled by in-house brands and Optima this-n-thats. The car that needs the new battery is a Ford E350 460 V8. It'll be driven infrequently (band van) and live in Minnesota (so many cold days). Any suggestions? The major US auto parts stores are very close to where I live, so autozone, advance auto parts, o'rielly, and napa. I had a pretty long reply typed up, but as others have pointed out, there's only 3 or 4 companies that make the majority of batteries you'll find. Since it's a band van, I'd be more concerned with the warranty and dealer network than anything else - you don't need the battery taking a poo poo hundreds of miles from home, and not being able to get a warranty replacement. I'd suggest AutoZone, more because they have a nationwide warranty database linked by phone number, and you can't go anywhere without tripping over one of their stores. Since you're looking at Optima, I'd suggest AutoZone's AGM battery. I believe they're made by East Penn, which IMO makes one of the better batteries (I think Exide makes the rest of AutoZone's batteries). Optima is made by Johnson Controls - who also makes Interstate and Kirkland (Costco), but supposedly Optima quality has really nosedived since Johnson bought Optima. (this is probably the only time you'll ever see me suggest AutoZone for anything) Toss in a Harbor Freight trickle charger, and also add a battery blanket/heater (Amazon has them, not sure if that's something you'd find on the shelf at a parts store or not) to keep it charged and to keep it from freezing. AGM batteries handle cold better than a flooded lead acid battery, but it's still a battery, and batteries really don't like extreme temps. Ideally you'd put the battery in the garage and on a trickle charger between trips, but if you have to deal with emissions testing, and the van is new enough to be OBD2, then disconnecting the battery resets all of the readiness monitors (which means an automatic fail if you don't drive it enough before the test). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Nov 5, 2015 |
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Nov 5, 2015 06:29
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Looking at an automatic 2004 Infiniti G35 for a very low price on the other side of the state, I'm going to ask the seller to have it inspected at a dealership, but I figured I should ask if there's anything that tends to go wrong on them. Anything in particular I should be worried about on it?
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Nov 6, 2015 05:31
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We rented a Sentra at Hertz at JFK airport and it had these sticker remnants on all the door / trunk openings. Any ideas? Car had 20k miles.  
smackfu fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Nov 6, 2015 |
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Nov 6, 2015 12:51
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I'm guessing "Don't Open" over the door seams so they would know if the vehicle was tampered with between the manufacturing plant and customer delivery. The rental place should have removed all traces of sticker with naptha or something. Very unnerving to see "DON'T..."
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Nov 6, 2015 15:06
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It kind of looks like it says: NO AIR DON'T OPEN Which is even more unnerving. Oh wait, I think the first line is "NO ABRIR" which is Spanish for don't open. Less exciting.
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Nov 6, 2015 15:31
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Sentras are manufactured in Nissan's Aguascalientes Mexico plant (I _imagine_ those are the ones imported into the US). It could be a customs thing to prevent someone from sneakily loading a Sentra trunk up with coke before it crosses the border.
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Nov 6, 2015 16:18
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Crossposting from Subaru thread: My 2004 Impreza 2.5TS has a clunk/brief rattle in my front end when going over bumps. Recently replaced items are both control arms + ball joints with OEM by Barrie Subaru, tie rod ends (Delco), and struts+mounts (KYB GR2 struts and KYB mounts). I have been totally unable to find the source of the clunk for weeks now, so yesterday I dropped it at the local Napa Autopro and they tell me that there is nothing unsafe and they cannot specifically find the problem. After test driving and inspecting, their tech suggests that the new struts or mounts may have gone bad. Does this sound reasonable? I ordered the struts and mounts from tirerack back in April and would have to try to get them warrantied, I guess.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:15
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It's doubtful. Did they check the sway bar bushings/links? Left field option: motor/trans mounts.
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Nov 6, 2015 18:39
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I hope this is ok to ask here Car: '15 midnight blue Prius Prollem: some dickhead who's spatial estimates are poor scraped his mirror against my car then immediately exited the highway. Most of it is very superficial, fingernail doesn't catch except right near the edge of the door. Is there anything I can use to, if not erase it, at least make it look less lovely? Amazon reviews of scratch remover/polish/wax/etc are less than no help.  
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Nov 6, 2015 19:02
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stevobob posted:Crossposting from Subaru thread: My Forester's end links are trash and bumps sound like someone is rattling a metal rod around in my front end.
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Nov 6, 2015 19:12
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I had to replace my ancient Explorer's mass airflow sensor. I hate to just throw away the old one since they remanufacture them, but I don't know where I could turn it in so it would be used for that. There's "Core Credit" things for remanufactured parts bought from stores, but they don't take parts from people coming in off the street. Is there a place to send my busted MAS so that it will get unbusted and save some other Ford in the future?
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Nov 7, 2015 18:09
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Where did you buy the replacement? I've never replaced a MAF so I don't know if it's even a core item.
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Nov 7, 2015 19:59
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Driving an 05 Mazda 3 and have been having a bit of a saga with the electrical system. About a year ago I had an aftermarket remote start installed and the company appears to have really hosed up my lighting system. My brake lights/horn/and shift lock were completely hosed as they broke the shift lock system while tying in the brake cutout for the remote starter. Eventually they had to cut the trunk light out of the loop claiming there was a short in that line (something I'm 90% sure was BS) I've thought things were back to normal for a while now except I noticed: -Currently both reverse lights appear to be down, I can't imagine both bulbs suddenly blew out of nowhere but you never know, planning on trying a bulb replacement tomorrow. Replacing the fuse in question today did nothing. -My rain sensing wipers and automatic headlights are both nonfunctional. I replaced the fuse for the wipers but can't find what fuse the sensor is on for the lights. I'm not exactly full of hope that either will work. Haven't tested the rain sensor yet. My stupid questions are: Anyone know what fuse that sensor is on? Anyone have anything else I should check for that back light line? At this point if the lights are hosed I'm getting close to just taking the car in to an electrical specialist to completely fix and taking them to small claims court in hopes of recovering some of the cost. I've already dropped an extra bunch of money on fixing this install and this is a car I will happily replace as soon as I get my next raise.
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Nov 8, 2015 00:32
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Generalissimo
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1992 Chevy S10 4.3l V6 automatic extended cab longbed 2WD. Oh and it's green. My brother got into a very minor fender bender on Friday: busted a headlight, broke the chevy bowtie emblem on the front, cracked the plastic grille, and that's about it. He brought it over to my place and when we went to take the truck to the hardware store, reverse wasn't working. I could shift into reverse, the reverse light came on, but no power, it acted like it was in neutral. Driving in Overdrive, the engine was also revving higher than normal before shifting into second gear. My brother says he's certain reverse was working when he backed out of his parking spot at his apartment before coming over to my place. Today I looked under the truck and there's a slow transmission fluid leak. Please see this brief video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw1CwFdL4lA You are looking from the driver's side, with the front of the truck to the left. The truck has about 225k miles on the original transmission and engine. It's probably not had a transmission fluid change in at least 100k miles, although the fluid looks normal. Best guess: is this just a seal on the linkage leaking and I can have it fixed cheap? Or is it more likely the transmission is done? How much is a new/refurbished/junkyard replacement transmission on this truck? I do most repairs myself but I've never dropped a tranny before, and my brother needs this truck to get to work so I have to get it back on the road as quickly as possible, which probably means taking it to my mechanic on Monday.
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Nov 8, 2015 01:55
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That's the speedometer sender and is fairly easy to replace. Certainly doesn't require dropping the transmission. I'm not convinced that's the only leak but it could be. Given that it coincides with a crash, is there any damage to the transmission cooler lines up front? The big issue is whether or not any damage has been done by running the transmission with low fluid. If you have to drive it somewhere, make drat sure you get the fluid level back to where it should be, and keep a very close eye on it.
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Nov 8, 2015 02:04
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xmission fluid dipstick shows full when cold, although it says to check hot. I don't think this truck has a cooler for the transmission but I'll check - in any case, it really seems like the damage is extremely light. There's no bent metal whatsoever. If I need to top up the fluid, where is the plug or whatever where I add it? I could just stick a funnel into the transmission fluid dipstick I suppose.
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Nov 8, 2015 02:26
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That's usually the procedure.
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Nov 8, 2015 05:40
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Because I always forget to check this thread: I posted "I think the people at JiffyLube bent my oil pan. Now I can see one side of the plug isn't quite crushing the washer and sealing. Is there anything I can do to fix it without more than basic hand tools?" Geoj posted:Make/model? It's a '99 Subaru Impreza. I'm not sure if the horizontally opposed engine makes anything weird with that. How much does that generally cost? I wouldn't be opposed to one of the pan saver plugs, but I really wanted to put a fumoto on there (as soon as I get a non-faulty one). Could I get a thicker gasket at Home Depot, or somewhere like that?
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Nov 8, 2015 06:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:How much does that generally cost? Depends on engine size but looks like about $40-50 on rockauto.
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Nov 8, 2015 07:44
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On the subject of oil drain plugs, my car doesn't have a copper crush washer but it has a steel one that is integral to the plug. How many times can I reuse that before I have to replace it? e: 
spankmeister fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 09:07
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some texas redneck posted:I had a pretty long reply typed up, but as others have pointed out, there's only 3 or 4 companies that make the majority of batteries you'll find. Since it's a band van, I'd be more concerned with the warranty and dealer network than anything else - you don't need the battery taking a poo poo hundreds of miles from home, and not being able to get a warranty replacement. FWIW the HF trickle charger says not to use with AGM batteries. Maybe that has changed since I bought mine.
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Nov 8, 2015 14:38
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Because I always forget to check this thread: I've heard there are some ford trucks where you have actually pull the engine or drop the transmission to do an oil pan swap, which is just 
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Nov 8, 2015 16:06
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Parts Kit posted:Make sure to read up a detailed explanation of how to redo the oil pan if you have to do so. On my 87 B2000 I had to remove the steering linkage and a crossmember to get enough clearance for the oil pan to drop. That added a lot of work, doubly so when I hosed up some already dying ball joints that attach to the steering linkage. Same on 2.2l Chevy S10s. And it's so hard to get the bell housing bolts out the FSM procedure is to pull the engine + trans as a unit.
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Nov 8, 2015 19:07
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Parts Kit posted:Make sure to read up a detailed explanation of how to redo the oil pan if you have to do so. On my 87 B2000 I had to remove the steering linkage and a crossmember to get enough clearance for the oil pan to drop. That added a lot of work, doubly so when I hosed up some already dying ball joints that attach to the steering linkage. Fox body Mustangs are so hard up for space that the oil pan molds around the front K-member with a front and rear sump. Twice as many opportunities to strip threads or develop a leak!
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Nov 8, 2015 20:51
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DELETED posted:Fox body Mustangs are so hard up for space that the oil pan molds around the front K-member with a front and rear sump. Twice as many opportunities to strip threads or develop a leak! Is it better to put an aftermarket dry sump on? 
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Nov 9, 2015 05:18
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